Thompson's Route*** IV 4
[Ian on P2, 2 kb]130m, 3 pitches. P1: Straight up and into the narrow steep ice groove to gain a chimney. Follow this for 25 meters to belay on a large block (60m). P2: Up the ramp right to a gap at 10m, then back left across a snow ramp, round a corner to belay at the foot of a narrow groove in the buttress (40m). P3 (variation, IV/5): take the groove in the buttress to gain a pedestal. Step up right, then move left beneath a vertical 1.5m block. Surmount this to easier ground and an icy v groove which will take you to the top (30m).

Photo: Ian on P2 © markfairbank
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 139 logbooks, and on 34 wishlists.

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/14

No pissing on the ice screws to clear them this time.
John Workman - AltLd - 30/Mar/14 with Tony

David86 - 2nd - 30/Mar/14 with james davis

Great ice on the route today. Couldn't see much though.
Ken Applegate - Lead - 29/Mar/14 with Gary, Wes

direct finish rather than gully no.3 buttress finish, keeping with the grade IV, good ice all the way.
Wesley Orvis - 2nd - 29/Mar/14

colenn - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/14 with Liam Brophy, Rob Noone

rob87n - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/14 with Colm ennis, Liam Brophy

gallonj - 2nd - Mar/14

carl_123 - AltLd O/S - Jan/14

AndyL - Lead dnf - 24/Nov/13 with Henry Dodson

Kyle lead P1 (45m), I lead the rest in 3 long pitches. The first climbing experience for Simon. The snow was a bit unstable, and ice was not as fat as we'd wish, but the overall conditions were good. The crux was the final pitch, shared with Number Three Gully Buttress.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Kyle, Simon P

Lead first pitch, slightly insecure ice and neve. Masa lead the rest with improving conditions as we got higher. Last pitch had a very stiff traverse on bad hooks to access a very steep exit neve slope - felt far harder than the III it should have been! Bit of an epic day out all in all!
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Simon Perry, Masa Sakano

IJHunt - 2nd O/S - 13/Mar/13

Carl UKC lead initial crux pitch- quite sustained, and the direct finish which gives a more natural line and maintains the overall grade. A great route.
bobpilgrem - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/13

1st Pitch was the hardest, chimney was thin.
Andy Hewison - 2nd - 05/Mar/13 with Pete Jackson, Mark Chadwick

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - 24/Feb/13 with Joris

Conan - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/13 with Paul Horabin, Pete Glasper

Excellent first pitch
Mike Tutt - Lead - 17/Feb/13

Hidden - 2nd - 17/Feb/13

done as a mixed line, quality climbing loads of gear, not IV 4 as a mixed line for definite !!
connor - AltLd O/S - 11/Jan/13 with willey

Hidden - 2013

Chris Reid - 2013

Great route.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12 with Ed Booth

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12

Lead main pitch, not much ice in chimney at the bottom, had to move out left then back right via some thin mixed moves. Finished direct which was banked out at II
Glyn - AltLd O/S - 14/Feb/12 with David Fountain

richard s - 2nd - 14/Feb/12 with Andy Stotesbury

Lead pitch one. Chimney not in great condition. Traversed left and clipped tatt. Couldn't find a great belay. Good route and exciting position.
wadh1720 - AltLd O/S - 13/Feb/12 with Chris L, jimmyk

luckyjim - AltLd - 05/Feb/12 with D Helm

Gezzer - AltLd - 03/Feb/12 with Steve Burns

nickdonohue - AltLd - Feb/12 with Andy March

machars - AltLd - 29/Jan/12 with Ben Sharp

very good with an alternative finish!!
bob johnson - 2nd O/S - 29/Jan/12 with Mike Pescod, Rich Ball

Ben Sharp - AltLd - 29/Jan/12 with Graeme Barr

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12

Ryan Wilson - Lead - 14/Jan/12 with Tony Harris

In thin but reasonable condition, did right hand variation finish (IV,5). Very enjoyable route.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/12 with Andy

Did the right hand variation at the top.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd rpt - 07/Jan/12 with Martin Haworth

Filmed ascent - challenging conditions with spindrift in abundance!
simon_D - 03/Dec/11 with Neil Silver

Done in 4 pitches (short ropes!) - thin ice, hard mixed climbing - Johnny reckoned probably closer to V today - at least the gear was good - loose blocks in places to keep clear of.
Moonstone Hippy - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with Johnny

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/11

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 05/Mar/11 with frazzy4

Hidden - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/11

freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Dave Douglas

Awesome route, ice a bit dodgy in places due to recent thaw. Finished up direct finish to No. 3 gully buttress
Dave Douglas - AltLd O/S - 27/Feb/11 with Paul Freudenthal

samrad - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/11 with tom livingstone

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 21/Feb/11 with sam radcliffe

Led P1 and P3 (variation on no. 3 gully buttress). Snow ramp had large cornice, so went for the steep butress, which was excellent.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/11 with Michael

great day out!
msoldn - AltLd O/S - 18/Feb/11 with Rory

Hidden - 17/Feb/11

Hidden - 17/Feb/11

Diggler - Lead O/S - 12/Feb/11 with Johnny

Hidden - Lead - Feb/11

A brilliant piece of climbing up the lower chimney, one of the best winter routes I've done on the Ben.
Bob - AltLd O/S - 29/Jan/11 with Steve Brock

Led P2, Really NIce.
shugsan - AltLd O/S - 23/Jan/11 with Jason King, Hannah

JasonK - AltLd - 23/Jan/11 with Hanakin Gibs, Euan Boyd

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Owen1984 - 2nd O/S - 30/Dec/10

am_bodach - AltLd O/S - 15/Dec/10 with Niall Maclachlan

niall_mac - AltLd - 15/Dec/10 with am_bodach

HansUDes - 2nd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Spike Sellers

not very consolidated yet, felt in quite hard nick
Ginger McGrath - Solo O/S - 21/Nov/10

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Nov/10

Hidden - 04/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - 16/Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Mar/10

Hidden - 25/Mar/10

conditions not good, thin melting ice or powder
ritid - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/10

John Pickles - Lead rpt - 23/Mar/10 with Work

Hidden - 2nd dog - 20/Mar/10

Mock student for the day with the Brenin. Nice climbing and good conditions - will be back another time to lead it.
isi_o - 2nd - 16/Mar/10 with Stu, Gaz, Ali Marwick

Great route in good condition, led P2 and 4. Thought by winter climbing standards the gear was ok; after the first 2 pitches the climbing is much easier but still in great positions. Highly recommended!
markfairbank - AltLd O/S - 08/Mar/10 with Ian Moore

Harrowing! Ton did the first pitch, ice missing atr the start requiring a poorly traverse out right, good belay though. 'You can do the second pitch, it's just a straight chimney up to a large platform'. Ice thin, v poor pro, got in sling after run out, carried on but no platform and running out of rope,one piece of poor pro. Reversed back and belayed off sling. Tom did next pitch, no pro and nothing for axes, kicked big buckets in crap snow - scary! Got in 0.5 nut then hammered in bull-dog, oh dear! Tom completed final scarey pitch. - 'no lads you didn't want to go near Thompsons in these conditions'.
mikehenesy - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/10 with Tom Boeux

Alco-nomic - AltLd - Mar/10

Not what we planned to do, but thoroughly enjoyable day out.
jameshiggins - AltLd O/S - 30/Jan/10 with GBriff

Hidden - 2010

colinthrelfall - 2010

centurion05 - 2010

Mostly good ice, tricky bit at narrowing of chimney. Cold weather and much spindrift.
WilliamBurnside - AltLd - 19/Dec/09 with B Strachan

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 19/Dec/09

Took a direct finish as opposed to the traverse off right
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Dan Matthewman

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09

Lead the first pitch, thin and scary, abbed off
farmus21 - Lead dnf - Dec/09 with Ben Allsford, Tom Ripley

Dave Latimer - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/09

The Bad Cough - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/09 with John Nesbitt, Chris Minnett

Hidden - Lead O/S - 12/Mar/09

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 05/Feb/09 with Flash

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/09

bullwinkle - AltLd - 02/Jan/09 with Sam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/09

lberry - 2nd - Jan/09

Hidden - 2009

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2009

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/08

A good route.
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/08 with Dan

jaggy bunnet - AltLd - 05/Apr/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Apr/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/08

simon_D - 2nd O/S - 24/Mar/08 with George McEwan, Andy Johno

Captain Solo - AltLd - 15/Mar/08 with Ewan

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/08

aged_ape - Lead O/S - 20/Feb/08 with MD

nofx - 2008

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - 2008 with Zac Poulton

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Apr/07

decs - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/07 with Bart

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Apr/07

barney_edin - AltLd - 02/Apr/07 with Simon G

gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 01/Apr/07 with Mike

mikecopp - AltLd - 01/Apr/07 with Gaz Marshall

steveP - AltLd O/S - 24/Mar/07 with Simon Ringrose

gareth r - 2nd - 01/Mar/07

Jamie B - AltLd - Mar/07 with Gabbi Varga

gregor - Mar/07

Led Pitch 2. Wished I had led pitch 1, as it was far more interesting!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - Mar/07 with Dave Kirby

seanyt - AltLd - Mar/07

Ice missing from first chimney. Otherwise fine but bold.
steev - AltLd O/S - 25/Jan/07 with Alex T

Good snow ice all the way.
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 21/Jan/07 with steve prior

CurlyStevo - AltLd - 2007

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2007

Weather forecast was bad viewing for today but it turned out to be fine. Really enjoyed the chimney section. Great mixed climbing.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 02/Apr/06 with William Woodhead

dsiska - AltLd - 19/Mar/06 with Duncan, Fran

Guided ascent. Intricate, fun climbing - lots of bridging and backstepping
Robbie H - 2nd - 09/Mar/06 with Richard Bentley

chrissloan84 - AltLd - Mar/06 with jon

Hidden - 01/Feb/06

nickcanute - AltLd - 12/Mar/05 with tim parkinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Feb/05

sgl - AltLd - 24/Feb/05 with Konnie

Dirk Wallis - AltLd - Mar/04 with Grrr

Hidden - 2nd O/S - Feb/04

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

Hidden - 2001

great route!
Grezza - Lead - Feb/95 with Mick RIP, Andy Kemp

Hidden - AltLd - 29/Feb/92

Unroped ascent in gale conditions - why? originally III/IV in notes
Lone Rider - Solo - 15/Feb/86 with John Christie

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
flett53, adie84, JonmapDL, Charlie Zephyr Booth, Hannah Evans, simonjkinsella, Thoms6974, Bradders, Dustin, Ian Jones, PanzerHanzler, Ally Gillies, MJH, joeydurkin, Watty, andymoin

Voting
Total votes cast 95
hard V0 of 34
V0 of 34
easy V0 of 34
hard IV10 of 34
IV22 of 34
easy IV2 of 34
hard III0 of 34
III0 of 34
easy III0 of 34
hard 50 of 32
51 of 32
easy 52 of 32
hard 41 of 32
426 of 32
easy 42 of 32
hard 30 of 32
30 of 32
easy 30 of 32
3 Stars20 of 29
2 Stars9 of 29
1 Star0 of 29
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