130m, 3 pitches. P1: Straight up and into the narrow steep ice groove to gain a chimney. Follow this for 25 meters to belay on a large block (60m).

P2: Up the ramp right to a gap at 10m, then back left across a snow ramp, round a corner to belay at the foot of a narrow groove in the buttress (40m).

P3 (variation, IV/5): take the groove in the buttress to gain a pedestal. Step up right, then move left beneath a vertical 1.5m block. Surmount this to easier ground and an icy v groove which will take you to the top (30m).

Ticklists: Mid-Grade Scottish Winter.


ClimberDateStyle
Will Jerram 10/Mar 2nd O/S

A great climb. We finished the final pitch by traversing to the right and on to an exposed pedestal and up to finish. This traverse was challenging due to the thin ice cover on the left wall so nice and steady.

with Jon Jerram, Mike Pescod
Rob N 14/Feb AltLd rpt
with Bruce
Hidden 13/Feb AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/Feb Lead O/S
Rhys Macallister 11/Feb AltLd

Jack led first pitch which at the time was in really good condition. Lots of runner and climbing with interest. second pitch straight forward to corner. we did the original finish which was an interesting and technical traverse. managed to find adequate protection where needed. 2nd might find it quite out there and would still take a spin!

with jack doyle
Stefan_Morris 11/Feb AltLd O/S

Great first pitch and tricky original finish ramp. Ab into number 3 gully was rather wild!

with Rhys M, Jack Doyle
Hidden 11/Feb -
guy757 06/Feb -
Brucemacrosson ?/Feb AltLd
with Rob Noone
masa-alpin 27/Jan AltLd rpt

During BMC International Winter Meet 2016. Turned out ice hardly formed, turfs not frozen. Climbed very carefully, mainly using rock edges, not to rip off turfs – 1.5 grades harder than I remember. I lead P1, P2 (the chimney bit), and Michael did the rest in 2 pitches.

with Michael R
davkeo 27/Jan Lead rpt
Andrew Wilson 16/Jan AltLd O/S

Consolation route after backing off Gargoyle Wall. Very enjoyable, and almost certainly not fully 'in' so it was a notch or 2 harder than normal. The exit left from the first chimney section was not straightforward and the move right into the chimney/groove from the 1st stance was very tenuous without the ice build up. Made for a good day in the conditions.

with Matt Nuttall
mattnuttall 16/Jan AltLd O/S

Climbed as salvage after getting spanked on gargoyle wall... Felt more like mixed V today with little ice and powder. Good though.

Hannah Evans 08/Jan AltLd
with Mark Scales
tomdude 06/Jan Lead

Some great snow and ice conditions on the main section of the route. Top fun. Sore eyes from the spindrift!

with mike beddington
liamando 02/Jan AltLd O/S

First Grade 4. First chimney. Fun times had at two minutes a metre for a 60m pitch pretty lean and warm weather made it even leaner during the first pitch.

with K-Bo
kbow265 02/Jan AltLd

Rainy belay in the fog, you could see the freezing level drifting up. Glad Liam had the first pitch - fell out of the chimney due to hot aches. Rest of the route was more amenable.

Hidden ??/2016 -
SWalls 03/Apr/15 AltLd
Hidden 18/Mar/15 AltLd
Euan Todd 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Pretty sore from the previous day on Tower Ridge, but we made the effort for another day of perfect conditions. Really nice route, Hugh led P1 up to the block, I then led a 60m pitch to just below the top, then Hugh topped out. Fantastic neve and great situations, just topped off the weekend! Descended with a solo of number 3 gully to get the bags.

Hugh Simons 15/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

First proper ice route. Really lovely climbing, neve and ice was in great nick. I lead P1, Euan P2 and I ran it to the top. Another stunning day, great way to round off the weekend.

Grezza 15/Mar/15 Lead

20th Anniversary repeat! Nice. Alpine feel at top

with Paul E
HimTiggins 14/Mar/15 AltLd rpt
with Djuke, Alan
Harry Holmes 14/Mar/15 Solo O/S
mrbird 10/Mar/15 AltLd

Pitch 1 & 3. Right hand exit from the number 3 buttress

Ryan23 10/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
with Dave
davkeo 08/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Led P1. Lovely mixed climbing.

Hidden 08/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
Timothy Miller 08/Mar/15 AltLd O/S
gst 08/Mar/15 AltLd O/S

Brian suggested we take RH traverse exit when we got to No3 gully buttress. Added a bit of spice with interersting bridging move across very exposed wall. Weather poor on climb, suffered!

with Euan Fowler, Brian Shackleton
Nath93 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S

Good ice, partner led first two pitches and I got the last pitch of no.3 gully buttress which has a stiff little move and virtually no gear for the traverse, pretty exposed but amazing position!

mzchambers 13/Feb/15 AltLd O/S
with Nathan
mjsmith1973 12/Feb/15 2nd
with Mike Pescod
Hidden 11/Feb/15 AltLd
andymcronald 10/Feb/15 2nd

with Louisa Reynolds, Abacus mountaineering. Also Ritchie Slessor. Great condition, nice day. Grade IV.

plain kitten ??/2015 -
Ewanski 28/Dec/14 -

great conditions, a little lean. Excellent weather

with Bruce M
Brucemacrosson 28/Dec/14 -
with Ewanski
benclimbing 26/Dec/14 Lead O/S
jonskippy 26/Dec/14 -
Hidden 30/Mar/14 Lead O/S
John Workman 30/Mar/14 AltLd

No pissing on the ice screws to clear them this time.

with Tony
David86 30/Mar/14 2nd
Ken Applegate 29/Mar/14 Lead

Great ice on the route today. Couldn't see much though.

with Gary, Wes
Wesley Orvis 29/Mar/14 2nd

direct finish rather than gully no.3 buttress finish, keeping with the grade IV, good ice all the way.

colenn 27/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
Rob N 27/Mar/14 AltLd O/S
elliptic 21/Mar/14 Lead
with Stewart
gallonj ?/Mar/14 2nd
carl_123 18/Jan/14 AltLd O/S
AndyL 24/Nov/13 Lead dnf
with Henry Dodson
masa-alpin 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Kyle lead P1 (45m), I lead the rest in 3 long pitches. The first climbing experience for Simon. The snow was a bit unstable, and ice was not as fat as we'd wish, but the overall conditions were good. The crux was the final pitch, shared with Number Three Gully Buttress.

Mr. K 20/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Lead first pitch, slightly insecure ice and neve. Masa lead the rest with improving conditions as we got higher. Last pitch had a very stiff traverse on bad hooks to access a very steep exit neve slope - felt far harder than the III it should have been! Bit of an epic day out all in all!

with Simon Perry, Masa Sakano
Hidden 20/Apr/13 AltLd
Hidden 24/Mar/13 2nd
IJHunt 13/Mar/13 2nd O/S
Valaisan 12/Mar/13 2nd O/S
with Al Walker, Pauline Kell
bobpilgrem 11/Mar/13 AltLd O/S

Carl UKC lead initial crux pitch- quite sustained, and the direct finish which gives a more natural line and maintains the overall grade. A great route.

Andy Hewison 05/Mar/13 2nd

1st Pitch was the hardest, chimney was thin.

with Pete Jackson, Mark Chadwick
Hidden 24/Feb/13 AltLd
Conan 24/Feb/13 AltLd O/S
with Paul Horabin, Pete Glasper
Mike Tutt 17/Feb/13 Lead

Excellent first pitch

Hidden 17/Feb/13 2nd
connor 11/Jan/13 AltLd O/S

done as a mixed line, quality climbing loads of gear, not IV 4 as a mixed line for definite !!

with willey
Hidden ??/2013 -
Chris Reid ??/2013 -
Adam Booth 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Great route.

Hidden 17/Feb/12 AltLd O/S
Glyn 14/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Lead main pitch, not much ice in chimney at the bottom, had to move out left then back right via some thin mixed moves. Finished direct which was banked out at II

richard s 14/Feb/12 2nd
with Andy Stotesbury
wadh1720 13/Feb/12 AltLd O/S

Lead pitch one. Chimney not in great condition. Traversed left and clipped tatt. Couldn't find a great belay. Good route and exciting position.

with Chris L, jimmyk
geoff b 12/Feb/12 AltLd

A great route, well protected & always interesting.

with Dr. Nick
luckyjim 05/Feb/12 AltLd
with D Helm
Gezzer 03/Feb/12 AltLd
Hidden 03/Feb/12 Lead
nickdonohue ?/Feb/12 AltLd
with Andy March
machars 29/Jan/12 AltLd
bob johnson 29/Jan/12 2nd O/S

very good with an alternative finish!!

with Mike Pescod, Rich Ball
Ben Sharp 29/Jan/12 AltLd
Hidden 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
Ryan Wilson 14/Jan/12 Lead
with Tony Harris
Martin Haworth 07/Jan/12 AltLd O/S

In thin but reasonable condition, did right hand variation finish (IV,5). Very enjoyable route.

with Andy
Andrew Sloan 07/Jan/12 AltLd rpt

Did the right hand variation at the top.

simon_D 03/Dec/11 -

Filmed ascent - challenging conditions with spindrift in abundance!

with Neil Silver
Moonstone Hippy 06/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Done in 4 pitches (short ropes!) - thin ice, hard mixed climbing - Johnny reckoned probably closer to V today - at least the gear was good - loose blocks in places to keep clear of.

with Johnny
Hidden 05/Mar/11 AltLd
jaggy bunnet 05/Mar/11 AltLd
with frazzy4
Hidden 28/Feb/11 Lead O/S
freudy_love 27/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with Dave Douglas
Dave Douglas 27/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Awesome route, ice a bit dodgy in places due to recent thaw. Finished up direct finish to No. 3 gully buttress

samrad 21/Feb/11 AltLd O/S
with tom livingstone
Tom Livingstone 21/Feb/11 Lead O/S
ruaidh 18/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

Led P1 and P3 (variation on no. 3 gully buttress). Snow ramp had large cornice, so went for the steep butress, which was excellent.

with Michael
msoldn 18/Feb/11 AltLd O/S

great day out!

with Rory
Hidden 17/Feb/11 -
Hidden 17/Feb/11 -
Diggler 12/Feb/11 Lead O/S
with Johnny
Hidden ?/Feb/11 Lead
Bob 29/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

A brilliant piece of climbing up the lower chimney, one of the best winter routes I've done on the Ben.

with Steve Brock
shugsan 23/Jan/11 AltLd O/S

Led P2, Really NIce.

JasonK 23/Jan/11 AltLd
with Hanakin Gibs, Euan Boyd
Hidden 23/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Spongebob 30/Dec/10 2nd O/S
am_bodach 15/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
niall_mac 15/Dec/10 AltLd
HansUDes 04/Dec/10 2nd O/S
with Spike Sellers
GraMc 21/Nov/10 Solo O/S

not very consolidated yet, felt in quite hard nick

Hidden 21/Nov/10 2nd
Hidden 04/Sep/10 -
Hidden 16/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden ?/Apr/10 AltLd
Hidden 29/Mar/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/10 AltLd
Hidden 25/Mar/10 -
ritid 23/Mar/10 2nd O/S

conditions not good, thin melting ice or powder

John Pickles 23/Mar/10 Lead rpt
with Work
Hidden 20/Mar/10 2nd dog
isi_o 16/Mar/10 2nd

Mock student for the day with the Brenin. Nice climbing and good conditions - will be back another time to lead it.

with Stu, Gaz, Ali Marwick
markfairbank 08/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Great route in good condition, led P2 and 4. Thought by winter climbing standards the gear was ok; after the first 2 pitches the climbing is much easier but still in great positions. Highly recommended!

with Ian Moore
mikehenesy 06/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Harrowing! Ton did the first pitch, ice missing atr the start requiring a poorly traverse out right, good belay though. 'You can do the second pitch, it's just a straight chimney up to a large platform'. Ice thin, v poor pro, got in sling after run out, carried on but no platform and running out of rope,one piece of poor pro. Reversed back and belayed off sling. Tom did next pitch, no pro and nothing for axes, kicked big buckets in crap snow - scary! Got in 0.5 nut then hammered in bull-dog, oh dear! Tom completed final scarey pitch. - 'no lads you didn't want to go near Thompsons in these conditions'.

with Tom Boeux
Alco-nomic ?/Mar/10 AltLd
jameshiggins 30/Jan/10 AltLd O/S

Not what we planned to do, but thoroughly enjoyable day out.

with GBriff
Hidden ??/2010 -
colinthrelfall ??/2010 -
centurion05 ??/2010 -
WilliamBurnside 19/Dec/09 AltLd

Mostly good ice, tricky bit at narrowing of chimney. Cold weather and much spindrift.

with B Strachan
Hidden 19/Dec/09 2nd dnf
Hidden 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
farmus21 ?/Dec/09 Lead dnf

Lead the first pitch, thin and scary, abbed off

with Ben Allsford, Tom Ripley
Dave Latimer 19/Mar/09 Lead O/S
The Bad Cough 13/Mar/09 Lead O/S
with John Nesbitt, Chris Minnett
Hidden 12/Mar/09 Lead O/S
jonnie3430 05/Feb/09 AltLd O/S
with Flash
Hidden 04/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
HimTiggins 02/Jan/09 AltLd
with Sam
Hidden ?/Jan/09 AltLd O/S
lberry ?/Jan/09 2nd
Hidden ??/2009 -
Hidden ??/2009 Lead O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/08 AltLd O/S
RobScotland 05/Apr/08 AltLd O/S

A good route.

with Dan
jaggy bunnet 05/Apr/08 AltLd
Hidden 02/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 27/Mar/08 AltLd O/S
simon_D 24/Mar/08 2nd O/S
with George McEwan, Andy Johno
Captain Solo 15/Mar/08 AltLd
with Ewan
Hidden 05/Mar/08 AltLd
aged_ape 20/Feb/08 Lead O/S
with MD
nofx ??/2008 -
John Pickles ??/2008 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2008 AltLd
Hidden 03/Apr/07 AltLd
decs 03/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Bart
tebs 03/Apr/07 AltLd
with Dunc
barney_edin 02/Apr/07 AltLd
with Simon G
gaz.marshall 01/Apr/07 AltLd O/S
with Mike
mikecopp 01/Apr/07 AltLd
with Gaz Marshall
steveP 24/Mar/07 AltLd O/S
with Simon Ringrose
gareth r 01/Mar/07 2nd
Jamie B ?/Mar/07 AltLd
with Gabbi Varga
gregor ?/Mar/07 -
Ken Applegate ?/Mar/07 AltLd

Led Pitch 2. Wished I had led pitch 1, as it was far more interesting!

with Dave Kirby
seanyt ?/Mar/07 AltLd
Fatherof2 18/Feb/07 -

Led main pitches

with sean, Roger
steev 25/Jan/07 AltLd O/S

Ice missing from first chimney. Otherwise fine but bold.

with Alex T
Shaw Brown 21/Jan/07 AltLd

Good snow ice all the way.

with steve prior
CurlyStevo ??/2007 AltLd
Hidden ??/2007 AltLd O/S
Big Lee 02/Apr/06 AltLd O/S

Weather forecast was bad viewing for today but it turned out to be fine. Really enjoyed the chimney section. Great mixed climbing.

dsiska 19/Mar/06 AltLd
with Duncan, Fran
Robbie H 09/Mar/06 2nd

Guided ascent. Intricate, fun climbing - lots of bridging and backstepping

with Richard Bentley
chrissloan84 ?/Mar/06 AltLd
with jon
Hidden 01/Feb/06 -
nickcanute 12/Mar/05 AltLd
with tim parkinson
Hidden 26/Feb/05 AltLd O/S
sgl 24/Feb/05 AltLd
with Konnie
Dirk Wallis ?/Mar/04 AltLd
with Grrr
Hidden ?/Feb/04 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/2002 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2001 -
Grezza ?/Feb/95 Lead

great route!

with Mick RIP, Andy Kemp
Hidden 29/Feb/92 AltLd
Lone Rider 15/Feb/86 Solo

Unroped ascent in gale conditions - why? originally III/IV in notes

with John Christie
51 users have this on their wishlist
Voting
High V
Mid V
Low V
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
High III
Mid III
Low III
Votes cast 42
High 5
Mid 5
Low 5
High 4
Mid 4
Low 4
High 3
Mid 3
Low 3
Votes cast 40
Votes cast 37
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Followed
Lead
Soloed
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Dogged
Not Set