36m.
The steep crack leads into a belay in the corner above. The route then takes a line left under the roof and out onto easier ground. Big protection will help for the first pitch and the belay.
P1) 5a 18m Head up the initial crack to a sloping ledge. Follow the crack up to the right into the corner to a stance (crux).
P2) 4c 18m Follow the bottom of the roof to the left to join the arete and a crack. The climbing in the groove around from the arete maybe harder than 4c due to the recent lose of a hold. Continue up the groove to easier ground to finish.
P1) 5a 18m Head up the initial crack to a sloping ledge. Follow the crack up to the right into the corner to a stance (crux).
P2) 4c 18m Follow the bottom of the roof to the left to join the arete and a crack. The climbing in the groove around from the arete maybe harder than 4c due to the recent lose of a hold. Continue up the groove to easier ground to finish.
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Josh Butler | 5 Nov, 2018 |
Show βeta
βeta: I managed to pull a hold out of the crux groove on the second pitch whilst seconding. Second pitch now seems to be harder, so be aware. | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: I managed to pull a hold out of the crux groove on the second pitch whilst seconding. Second pitch now seems to be harder, so be aware. |
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Route of Interest
Lighthouse Arete Direct/Blanco
Grade: HVS 5a ***
(Gogarth South Stack)