Direct to main crack. An interesting journey is to continue up the middle section of Central, then take a step left and the final exhilarating moves of Christmas Crack

Ticklists: Stanage *** HVS's, 29 Routes, 87 Stars, 1 E Point each, Peak Gritstone S-HVS **+.

Ciderslider 16/Oct 2nd O/S

After the pub and rain

with charley
charley 16/Oct Lead O/S

Ran up and did this as soon as the rain stopped. Was still damp in places but felt fine. Didn't join up with Christmas Crack until the last couple of moves at the top, went up the middle of the slab instead. Really nice route.

with Mark
the power 24/Sep Lead
with ken
PatrickEnglish 13/Sep Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Sep 2nd O/S
Hidden 23/Aug 2nd
dmannion 14/Aug Lead
Mowglee 09/Aug Solo rpt
Hidden 14/Jul Lead O/S
Ian Hylands 28/Jun Lead O/S

Enjoyed it. Little protection up the first slab (a smallish cam) and a bit of a reach, but felt more like VS 5a (as it is in BMC guide). Footholds on slab were fine and plenty of time to think. Top part a little grassy.

Griff1990 28/Jun 2nd O/S
mtempest 17/Apr 2nd
Mowglee 09/Apr Lead O/S
with Ali
amccann 26/Mar Solo O/S
with Nick
Rupey 29/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Rob
the power 25/Oct/14 Lead rpt
marconi 18/Oct/14 2nd
with Mdh, Mark S
Anna Hammond 13/Aug/14 Lead

didn't exactly lead the first bit - put the rope into pre-placed gear for confidence - slipped at the start, but after that was fine, once on the VS it was easy.

with Phil Whitehead
BRoe 30/Jul/14 Solo O/S
with Will Lord, whitehouse_rhys
rockman 06/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really enjoyed this with a finish straight up the left headwall after the central crack. (This may be the "holiday quartet" finish?)

timcedwards 06/Jul/14 2nd
the power 11/Jun/14 Lead rpt
with Paul Hy
Paul Hy 11/Jun/14 2nd rpt
with Phil T
LJC 01/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Little Ben
LakesWinter 26/May/14 2nd
with Cake
Hidden 26/May/14 TR dog
planetmarshall 21/May/14 Lead O/S

Did feel somewhat harder than the Vs 5a claimed by the definitive guide. Not convinced by HVS 5b, though.

with Nik
ned_85 07/May/14 2nd
erbridger 07/May/14 Lead
with nedly14
Mr Messy 29/Apr/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/14 2nd
Hidden 12/Mar/14 2nd
Paul Hy 04/Mar/14 2nd O/S
with Lewis M
jonhowson ??/2014 Lead O/S
rich_hw 01/Dec/13 Lead O/S
with Aline
Aline 01/Dec/13 2nd O/S
with rich_hw
Calum Wadsworth 23/Nov/13 Lead O/S
with Emma
jshields 16/Nov/13 Solo
KTC 26/Oct/13 2nd

Tom struggled with hangover to lead it.

the power 08/Oct/13 Lead rpt
with Andy, rob
dannyboy83 05/Oct/13 Solo O/S
dr_botnik 07/Aug/13 Lead O/S
with Adrian
Hidden 02/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Aug/13 2nd O/S
robblowen 30/Jul/13 2nd β
with Munch
munch88 30/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with rob
Chris Nash 26/Jul/13 Lead
goddamm7 07/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Toby Dunn 07/Jun/13 Solo
Hidden 23/Apr/13 Lead O/S
JimboWizbo 20/Apr/13 Lead O/S

The guidebook describes this as protectionless, it isn't unless you're being very strict. Felt like HVS 5a.

with Beth
Hidden 20/Apr/13 2nd O/S
Tony Holdsworth 05/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Martin Haworth
wolf.leeb 02/Mar/13 Lead O/S
with Dom, jo
the power 28/Feb/13 Lead O/S

Brown trousers.good though

with ken
ashtond6 17/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Feb/13 Lead O/S
jwpil 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Nice moves, not sure they are too much better than meiosis though, and it only really has two independent moves. oh well.

with Jake
Jake Young 21/Oct/12 Lead O/S
with Laura, Jack
lbarras 21/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with jack, jake
victim of mathematics 19/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Felt more like HVS 5b/a than the VS 5a suggested in the guide. The move to the break is tricky, reachy, and you'd hit the ground if you messed it up. Finished up Holiday Quartet.

Ewano 07/Oct/12 Solo rpt
onlyfoddington 06/Oct/12 2nd O/S
with James H
Kayan 06/Oct/12 Lead
pebbles 03/Aug/12 Lead

nice moves.

with guido
manwithacam 01/Jul/12 Solo
hippymagic 19/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Rob
Hannes B 18/Jun/12 Solo O/S
pabbage 06/Jun/12 Lead O/S
SteveM 31/Mar/12 Solo
Daniel Heath 22/Mar/12 Solo rpt

Did the start barefoot but don't know how to log it

tomshanti 09/Mar/12 2nd β
deacondeacon 08/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 -
brummievet ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 -
Kayan ??/2012 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2012 Lead
Hidden ??/2012 -
Steve Waters, Mynydd 30/Oct/11 2nd

Taking a direct route to the crack felt like 5b with a reachy move to the main break. It looked slightly easier (5a?) to take a line to the right.

mtempest 30/Oct/11 Lead
with Steve Waters, Mynydd
joe.91 22/Oct/11 2nd O/S
with Lizzie Wilkins
Ewano 16/Oct/11 Solo O/S
Andy Peak 1 02/Oct/11 Lead

plukt a random belay er from the crowd of people!

with random
Hidden 17/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 20/Aug/11 Lead
Hidden 13/Aug/11 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 30/Jul/11 2nd β
llamaglama 30/Jul/11 Lead
with Jam
K Wall 23/Jul/11 Lead
with Martin
SteveM 29/Jun/11 Lead
with Kat
Dr Toph 13/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Pythonist 03/Jun/11 Solo O/S
Ahab ?/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Daniel Heath 27/Apr/11 Lead O/S

Enjoyed the direct start

w.pettet-smith 22/Mar/11 Solo O/S
Hidden 13/Mar/11 Lead O/S
kitkat78 23/Jan/11 2nd O/S
SteveM 23/Jan/11 Lead
with Andy, Kat
Hidden ??/2011 -
uphillnow ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 -
Dan Mckinlay ??/2011 -
Hidden ?/Dec/10 -
nai 19/Nov/10 2nd
with Cal
mr random 18/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Paul Phillips - UKC and UKH 25/Jul/10 Solo O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead
maybe_si 23/Jun/10 Solo O/S
Martin Stevens 18/Jun/10 2nd O/S

After Dave followed taking gear out of the 1st crack of the 'standard' Central Trinity there was no reason to not try the direct and then clean the gear from the second crack.

with John S., Pelleas
drysori 12/Jun/10 Solo
Jim Slater 06/Jun/10 2nd O/S
Will_Maxwell 30/May/10 Lead O/S
with Debbie Armstrong, Tim Lewis
Viks 23/May/10 2nd
with Pete
nick ferro 22/May/10 -
Hidden 15/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Apr/10 Solo
Sean Kelly ??/2010 -
JulesV 09/Nov/09 Solo
JessBrown 20/Sep/09 2nd
Hidden 27/Jul/09 Solo O/S
Reaver2k 05/Jul/09 2nd

Direct start this time, pretty sweaty day aswell so felt a bit tricky! Do enjoy this route!

with Lisa Trollope, Michael Watson
Clee 04/Apr/09 2nd
with Steve
Chris the Tall 02/Apr/09 Solo rpt
BRUCESTRAC ??/2009 -
Goose4 ??/2009 -
Hidden 18/Sep/08 Solo O/S
HIGHTOWER 30/Aug/08 2nd
with Joe (Hotrock)
Goody 15/Jul/08 TR O/S
with Vanessa Jackson, Pat Flynn
IanJackson 30/Jun/08 Solo
Ly-Cilph 28/Jun/08 2nd dog
with Chris N
Shauna 27/Jun/08 2nd O/S
with richard
Hidden 11/Jun/08 2nd O/S
Chris the Tall 17/Feb/08 Solo rpt
roberto18 16/Feb/08 Lead
with Dad (Mike Bridges)
mike bridges 16/Feb/08 2nd
craig d ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Hidden ??/2008 -
Graeme Hammond 25/Nov/07 2nd rpt
Twisty 25/Nov/07 Lead O/S

Good boulder-style start

with Graeme Hammond
Peakology 02/Oct/07 Solo O/S

Just soloed up to the central trinity break i.e. the HVS 5b bit

Chris the Tall 27/Aug/07 Solo rpt
Pythonist 25/Aug/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/07 Lead O/S
bullwinkle 02/Aug/07 Solo O/S
Hidden 30/Jul/07 Solo O/S
Graeme Hammond 08/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Twisty 08/Jun/07 2nd O/S
with Graeme Hammond
b.hayley ?/Jun/07 2nd
Joe Miller 26/May/07 2nd O/S
with Phil Wilkinson
timo.t 24/May/07 Solo O/S
craig matheson ?/Apr/07 Solo
reg_measures 27/Jan/07 Solo O/S
Rob Kennard ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 -
timmy-ts ??/2007 -
Hidden ??/2007 2nd
Hidden ??/2007 Lead O/S
Chris the Tall 11/Dec/05 Solo rpt
mattyork2 06/Nov/05 2nd
Julie Carroll 28/Jun/05 Lead O/S
with Malcolm Dyson
Hidden ?/Sep/04 Lead O/S
Hidden 23/Jun/04 Solo
Ropeboy 15/Feb/04 Solo
Hidden 06/Oct/02 Lead O/S
TobyA 15/Dec/00 Lead O/S
with Stuart Adams
tlr ??/2000 Solo
Hidden ??/2000 -
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2000 Lead O/S
Boy ??/2000 Solo
akhughes ??/2000 -
Simon Pearce ??/1999 -
Hidden 22/Aug/97 2nd
buxtoncoffeelover 27/Jul/97 2nd
Phill Mitch ??/1997 Lead O/S
with kurt
Rich Kirby ??/1996 -
Hidden ??/1996 -
rurp ??/1996 Lead O/S
John Southworth 16/Jul/95 Solo O/S
IanD353 ??/1993 Lead O/S
Rob Davies 03/Sep/92 Lead
WB ??/1992 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1991 -
Hidden 02/May/89 Solo
Gambit 22/Feb/89 Solo O/S
with Adam and Phil
Hidden 08/Feb/89 Solo
Hidden 02/Feb/89 Lead
goi.ashmore 02/May/88 Solo O/S
Chris the Tall ?/Aug/87 Solo O/S
Hidden ??/1986 Lead
Mark Kemball 10/Oct/82 Solo
Tom V ??/1980 -
andy gittins ??/1979 -
Canyak ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Matt250, marconi, drobin, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, gavinpeach, Hidden, johnpr, Pete Nugent, pc1983, Emma-Louise Anderson, Hidden, AsleepOnBelay, Hidden, ben_250, BWoodward, Steve Waters, Mynydd, Hidden, Hidden, climbingrick, antpayne2003
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 29
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
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Flashed (β)
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