UKC Logbook - 'Axle Attack'

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Conwy > Pen Trwyn >

Axle Attack

7a+

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[Andy Taylor leading Axle Attack on upper Pen Trwyn. E5 6a / 7a+, 3 kb]

A superb and historic route which is one of the great ticks of the area. By French standards it has to be considered a bit soft touch at 7a+ since there are no really hard bits and plenty of modern rests but it still requires steady climbing right to the last moves. Never mind all that just enjoy the climbing and tick it! © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: The Orme 7a+'s, North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX Style Top 50: North Wales, 100 best limestone climbs in Britain, Classic UK F7s.

Photo: Andy Taylor leading Axle Attack on upper Pen Trwyn. E5 6a / 7a+ © ajtay
Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS

This climb is in 184 logbooks, and on 19 wishlists.

Saw Rich do the crux so had a vague idea of what to do. Expected to fall off but so psyched I didn't, have wanted to do this for yonks so to do it in good style is great!
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead β - 01/May/13 with Rich Gentry

Awkward start but an amazing upper section. Hard move to the mono. Did all the moves. No time to work/redpoint due to rain...
Luke Owens - Lead dog - 28/Apr/13 with Luke Clarke

Lloyders - Lead RP - 20/Apr/13 with Air

wi11 - Lead dog - 19/Apr/13 with Gwen L

first time on this since i did it as my first 7a+, still feels hard.
willoates - Lead rpt - 16/Apr/13 with Murdoch

Hidden - 2013

Huw Cropper - Lead dog - 08/Sep/12

dswansonlow - Lead dog - 08/Sep/12 with Darren McMaster

Sardien - TR dog - 02/Aug/12 with Sophie Berenice Wilmes

Finally got it! A good route but probably not worth 3 stars any more as the foot holds through the initial overhang are so polished. Initially felt harder than Mayfair (possibly because it was damp and greasy)-but felt ok today.
Dan724 - Lead RP - 28/Jul/12 with Raji Salan

J.Wells - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/12 with Bob Hickish

Hidden - Lead RP - 14/Jul/12

sonnenstern - Lead RP - 27/Jun/12 with Owen

Toby Dunn - Lead - 26/Jun/12

Felt hard the first few times working it...really flipping hard. Only getting half a pad in the mono on the send made me scream through the crux. Best route to date!
chriscarroll - Lead rpt - 13/Jun/12 with Greg

Clean on the 8th go, still love the climbing, would do again!
KittySupreme - Lead RP - 13/Jun/12 with Chris

Hidden - TR dog - 01/Jun/12

RP3 (RP1 on 26/5/12)
alek - Lead RP - 26/May/12 with Laurence Everett

Luke Brooks - Lead rpt - 21/May/12 with Liam

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/May/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 10/May/12

Bloody hard. Need to remember where to put feet on crux (left smear, right small boss).
Dave Foster - Lead dog - 13/Apr/12 with Si 2

Hidden - Lead rpt - 13/Apr/12

Chi Cheng - Lead RP - 31/Mar/12 with Petri Kemppainen, Phil Cartwright, Liam Brown

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Mar/12

The Grist - Lead dog - 30/Mar/12 with Jim Rogers

Will have to come back and lead this one, but no juice left in the tank today!
Adam Booth - TR O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Tom Fenwick

Awesome climbing, big moves, pumpy muther!
fennerz - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/12 with Adam Booth

Tom Livingstone - Lead RP - 24/Mar/12

2nd go.
kingholmesy - Lead RP - 2012 with Joe Torr

Hidden - 2012

LRob - Lead - 2012

First go today
owain86 - Lead RP - 01/Dec/11 with Gwen

So Close! Fell after the crux getting the mono in the groove, got pumped and couldn't move off it!
owain86 - Lead dog - 30/Nov/11 with Chris

Tom Livingstone - Lead dog - 25/Nov/11

sonnenstern - Lead - 09/Nov/11 with Rocio

Hidden - TR - 30/Oct/11

James Marshall - Lead β - 26/Oct/11 with ollie

gregoritos - Lead O/S - 11/Sep/11

La Mont - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Dan Barbour

dannyboy83 - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Andy Lamont

feilx - Lead O/S - 10/Jul/11 with Alex Dennis

Hidden - Lead rpt - 29/Jun/11

Found it really hard on the previous redpoints, not pumped on the send. climbing isnt actually that good, the history bumps it up to 2 stars.
willoates - Lead RP - 29/Jun/11 with andy psyche

1 rest
metal arms - Lead dog - 26/Jun/11

Rich Kirby - Lead rpt - 18/Jun/11 with Rab, Ruth

offroute - Lead - 06/Jun/11 with stuart lade

Graham Iles - TR dog - 05/Jun/11 with Tim Whitely, Nick Wharton

offroute - Lead dog - 18/May/11 with luke brooks

Luke Brooks - Lead O/S - 18/May/11 with Liam

steepstuff - 14/May/11 with Rob

Martin Cleaver - Lead β - 12/May/11 with Dan Gibson

dan gibson - Lead β - 12/May/11 with martin cleaver

Retro Red point? had done it years back. put the draws in for a warm up then thought I would walk up it. I was wrong and fell on the crux. Got it next go. still great climbing.
mux - Lead - 10/May/11 with frost

frost - TR dog - 10/May/11 with D Garry

onsight with clips in. slightly damper...
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 05/May/11 with Rob Greenwood

frost - TR dog - 19/Apr/11 with Pete H

Hidden - Lead rpt - 19/Apr/11

Hidden - 2nd - 11/Apr/11

Hidden - Lead - Apr/11

dav - Lead rpt - 19/Mar/11 with Gill B

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

pigeonslipper - Lead dog - 2011

Hidden - Lead β - 08/Oct/10

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Oct/10

slipped off after the crux going for the chains had the onsight in the bag.......
schof - Lead RP - 02/Oct/10 with northern dave

Nicolas Duboust - Lead O/S - 09/Sep/10

2nd go. Silly mistake on the flash. Nice route.
Stewart B - Sent x - 09/Sep/10 with Nick Deboost

Hidden - 2nd dog - 25/Aug/10

Dave got the 1st 4 bolts in. Lead with 4 Quickdraws pre clipped.
Chi Cheng - Lead dog - 03/Aug/10 with David Browne, Joseph Torr

Tried to get clean on a top rope. took 2 falls.
Chi Cheng - TR dog - 03/Aug/10 with David Browne, Joseph Torr

Muffed the onight. Climbed to top. Brilliant route. Will do it next time I'm over there.
Simon Davis - Lead dog - 11/Jul/10 with Tom & Rae

datoon - Lead - 04/Jul/10 with K

khawk - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with DT

akhughes - Lead - 25/Jun/10 with Jonnie Stocking

ewen - Lead RP - 23/Jun/10 with neil stabbs

2nd go
smallerrich - Lead - 16/Jun/10 with Sam

samrad - Lead O/S - 16/Jun/10 with smallerrich

Dan Jenkin - Lead RP - 18/May/10 with Chris Barr

dav - Lead O/S - 14/May/10 with Gill B

Hidden - TR dog - 18/Apr/10

Hidden - TR rpt - 17/Apr/10

1st rpt, hand popped off wet undercut on onsight
Glyn - Lead RP - 16/Apr/10 with Chris Davis

nutallovertheface - Lead RP - Apr/10 with Sam Hamer

Who's voting 7b for these and Night Glue?! Sheesh..
halfmanhalfbiscuit - Lead RP - Apr/10

zero six - Lead RP - Apr/10

soph - 2010

Second go.Hand popped by the second draw in big undercut, worked it to the top, then led. Top quality technical crimping.
Alex Mason - Lead RP - 07/Oct/09 with Mikey G

slipped on the first move, really annoying!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead RP - 07/Oct/09

2 rests to remember crux. bit rich as a second route for me. great climbing. just noticed that this gets 2 votes for 7b, dont think this is 7b, fair at 7a+
ksjs - Lead dog - 05/Oct/09 with dave r

Had a flash attempt and a top rope. Got all the moves but very sore fingers!
Stig - Lead dog - 20/Sep/09 with Goi

DDDD - Lead RP - 29/Jun/09 with Mick Haffner

Hidden - Lead dog - 19/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 19/Jun/09

barni - Lead dog - 05/Jun/09 with Strong Jon

Hidden - 02/Jun/09

rob.s22 - Lead O/S - Jun/09 with J.B

3rd redpoint.
mattyork2 - Lead RP - 16/May/09 with James Gray

1st go = psychological fail: rested at crux, exciting position! 2nd go = clean with damp holds. really quite pumpy, with 1 or 2 tricky moves, worthy of its quality reputation
ksjs - Lead RP - 14/May/09 with jo

Gave up on onsight attempt after crux for no particular reason apart from sheer f'in lazyness! So angry with myself. Failed on redpoint just after also.
mattyork2 - Lead dog - 09/May/09 with James Gray

lukehunt - Lead O/S - 25/Mar/09 with Steve barrat

barni - 2009

barni - Lead dnf - 11/Sep/08 with Northern

just too knackered for this but did climb first section better than last time and got move up into flake / groove sorted
ksjs - Lead dog - 01/Jul/08 with john

mr mills - Lead RP - 27/Jun/08 with ioan d and chang

Hidden - Lead β - 22/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Jun/08

Hidden - Lead - 06/Jun/08

ksjs - Lead dog - 03/Jun/08 with geraldine

switch - Lead O/S - 16/Mar/08

Julian Wedd - 2008

Peter Dickinson - Lead - 2008

Just before it pissed down!
richiebongo - Lead O/S - 2008 with Gwen Thomson

fran04 - TR - 19/Oct/07 with ian rowell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Aug/07

great climb- need to work it a bit more
guyblackwood - TR dog - 23/Jun/07 with Natasa