The Disillusioned Screw Machine*** E6 6b
A majestic long route which is one of the great challenges of the area. The climbing is sustained with 2 technical bulges and an steady little run-out on the headwall. Start below a large flake. The new bolt on Harry the Clamp doesn't alter the route's character. 1) 6a 20m. Climb up to (bolt on left) and over a bulge, past another bolt, to the flake. Step right and up to the belay. 2) 6b 20m. Traverse right past 2 pairs of twin bolts. Pull past these (tricky!) to a scoop then pull leftwards (also tricky) onto the headwall (bolt). Motor thoughtfully up this to the top. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, North Wales Super Route E6's, North Wales Rock Graded List.

This climb is in 14 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

Jack Geldard - UKC Chief Editor - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/09

Belayed Andy Mitchell on it 10 years beforehand, so can't claim the on-sight!
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead β - Jun/02 with Steve Adams

sadams - Lead β - Jun/02 with Tom Briggs

shark - AltLd - 15/Jun/96 with Howard Lancashire

Glenn Sutcliffe - 1995 with keefe

Hidden - Lead β - 07/Aug/93

Hidden - 2nd - 1993

Steve Walker - Lead - 1992 with jason cain

Hidden - 1987

Mike Owen - 16/Sep/84 with John Peake

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
LRob, barni, Mike Goldthorp
Total votes cast 13
hard E70 of 4
E70 of 4
easy E70 of 4
hard E60 of 4
E61 of 4
easy E63 of 4
hard E50 of 4
E50 of 4
easy E50 of 4
hard 6c0 of 4
6c0 of 4
easy 6c0 of 4
hard 6b1 of 4
6b3 of 4
easy 6b0 of 4
hard 6a0 of 4
6a0 of 4
easy 6a0 of 4
3 Stars5 of 5
2 Stars0 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.