Rockfax Description
A variation on The Disillusioned Screw Machine that shares the same crux. The climbing and positions are good but not quite as good as its neighbour.
1) 6a. Climb up through the bulge - thread and bolt, and then go up left to the belay of The Disillusioned Screw Machine.
2) 6b. Follow The Disillusioned Screw Machine to the scoop, then continue direct through the bulge into an open groove. Follow this until a move back left regains The Disillusioned Screw Machine. © Rockfax
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Grade: E6 6b ***
(Craig y Forwyn)