Rockfax Description
An exhilirating climb that builds to an exposed finale on the headwall. From below the crack on Oyster make some wild moves rightwards into a hanging groove. Climb this then trend right to the lower-off. Wires are required for the upper section or finish up Reader's Wives, which does not require wires. © Rockfax

Ticklists: The Orme 7a+'s, North Wales Rock Graded List, Classic UK F7s, North Wales Sport Climbing.

wolf.leeb 20/Sep Lead dog
with Alexis
FreddieSmith 15/Jun Lead O/S
with Danny Grifths
Hidden 21/May Lead RP
Hidden 21/May TR
SMc 16/May Lead RP
with Anne
Stoney Boy 18/Apr Lead RP

With Readers Wives

with Nick Conway
Hidden ?/Apr Lead RP
shed_hed 22/Nov/14 Lead β

Reader's wives finish. Felt like a bit of an adventure getting to the first bolt. Was wet on the burly jug pulling start but it made for some slippery feet. Nearly gave up when my feet were slipping everywhere until Dougie said there was a jug coming up. Tricky getting into groove but can rest as soon as you do. Great route of contrasting halves.

dswansonlow 16/Nov/14 Lead RP

2nd go.

with James Docherty
Hidden 01/Oct/14 Lead RP
piken 14/Sep/14 Lead
with Andy
HAJ Francis ?/Sep/14 Lead RP
mark mcgowan01 07/Jun/14 Lead β

felt 7b

with Owan Jones
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
nige ??/2014 -
Dave Turnbull, BMC 06/Oct/13 Lead RP
with Frank Ramsey
Hidden 28/Sep/13 Lead O/S
khawk 29/Jun/13 Lead β
with DT
Alex Mason 16/Apr/13 Lead β

Bit of beta from Dave. Nice crux moves then steady up the groove and beyond.

with Dave Evans, Chris Doyle
LRob ??/2012 Lead
gregoritos 11/Sep/11 Lead RP

2nd go.

phil64 08/Jul/11 TR RP
schof 06/Jul/11 Lead β

very good climbing, as good as night glue, so much varied style with an amazing groove to finish. Getting into it is the crux. The normal Clam finish is out right, it does not need any wires, it is run out but the climbing is all of about severe. Big jugs

with Big phil, luke 'power house' brooks
Luke Brooks 06/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with Phil, Andy Psyche
Rich Kirby 18/Jun/11 Lead rpt
with Rab, Ruth
Hidden 18/Jun/11 Lead RP
Hidden 21/Apr/11 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Rob Pitt 24/Jun/10 Lead RP

2nd go

with steveE9
ksjs 19/May/10 Lead O/S

simply brilliant! best 7a+ in N Wales (alongside Geordie War Cry maybe)? continental style steepness precedes some Orme technicalities. single large nut fine for the short last section, not essential though probably desirable if you dont fancy a bit of a swinging whipper. worth taking 1 or 2 sling extended draws to reduce drag. not ideal to clean - take care with rubbing rope.

with tommy
Hidden 30/Jun/09 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/Jun/09 -
Boy ??/2008 -
switch ?/Nov/07 Lead β


Hidden 24/Jun/07 Lead O/S
Rich Kirby ?/Sep/06 Lead O/S
with Craig Smith
Mick 14/Jun/03 Lead RP
with Ian
innes ??/1996 Lead O/S
Roget 02/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with jon
Mike Owen 27/Apr/94 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
shark 04/Oct/92 Lead O/S
Mike Owen 28/Jun/92 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Hidden 21/Jun/92 Lead O/S
keefe 22/Sep/91 -
Mike Owen 14/Jul/91 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
Billg ??/1990 Lead RP
Hidden ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 15/Jul/84 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Mark Kemball 02/Aug/83 Lead
with Paul Clark
Hidden 07/Jul/83 Lead β
robyn1 ??/1980 -
Hidden 01/Jul/69 Lead O/S
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Leo Woodhead, theomoore, Hidden, Hidden, Hidden, samrad, eugeneth, SamStokes
High 7b
Mid 7b
Low 7b
High 7a+
Mid 7a+
Low 7a+
High 7a
Mid 7a
Low 7a
Votes cast 16
Votes cast 16
Style of ascent
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Not Set