Needle in the Groove** 7c

Rockfax Description
A strenuous and technical climb that crosses the bulge to the right of The Bearded Clam. From below the bulge pull up right past 2 bolts to gain the long slim upper groove. This leads more easily to the top. The top groove requires wires. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.

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This climb is in 9 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

LRob - Lead - 2012

Hidden - TR dnf - 21/Apr/11

Where to start? First off it felt nails, bemused I couldn't do the moves in isolation. After a rest and a second blast, I managed all the moves but still tough. There's a small rock scar on the right, has something broken? Once through the crux, the groove is not blessed with huge incuts and it's hard to get established especially when there's no gear above (there's probably good holds a move or 2 up but this felt like E5 territory) and the groove is sprouting plants. If you do quest on and come off then there's the mid-height ledge to ponder - I'm certain you'd be close to hitting this. All in all it felt pretty out there and not particularly pleasant - can't say I'll be on it again any time soon. How the hell NWR says Libertango is top of the grade and this is bottom is beyond me (try swapping these and you might get nearer the truth). If you are considering an attempt and it's not well within your grade it might be worth gaining the belay from adjacent routes to garden the groove and place nuts.
ksjs - Lead dnf - 06/Apr/11 with jo

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead RP - 30/Jun/09

Hidden - Lead RP - 26/Apr/08

keefe - 22/Sep/91

Mike Owen - Lead RP - 14/Jul/91 with Elaine Owen

Total votes cast 9
hard 7c+0 of 5
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easy 7c+0 of 5
hard 7c0 of 5
7c0 of 5
easy 7c2 of 5
hard 7b+3 of 5
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easy 7b+0 of 5
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