A strenuous and technical climb that crosses the bulge to the right of The Bearded Clam. From below the bulge pull up right past 2 bolts to gain the long slim upper groove. This leads more easily to the top. The top groove requires wires. © Rockfax
Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Where to start? First off it felt nails, bemused I couldn't do the moves in isolation. After a rest and a second blast, I managed all the moves but still tough. There's a small rock scar on the right, has something broken? Once through the crux, the groove is not blessed with huge incuts and it's hard to get established especially when there's no gear above (there's probably good holds a move or 2 up but this felt like E5 territory) and the groove is sprouting plants. If you do quest on and come off then there's the mid-height ledge to ponder - I'm certain you'd be close to hitting this. All in all it felt pretty out there and not particularly pleasant - can't say I'll be on it again any time soon. How the hell NWR says Libertango is top of the grade and this is bottom is beyond me (try swapping these and you might get nearer the truth). If you are considering an attempt and it's not well within your grade it might be worth gaining the belay from adjacent routes to garden the groove and place nuts.
|Mike Owen||14/Jul/91||Lead RP||