Litany* VS 5a
[PontiusPirate on Litany, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
12m. Pull rightwards though the overhangs to a ledge, finish up the crack though the upper bulges. © ROCKFAX

Photo: PontiusPirate on Litany © dpmUK
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 107 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

Jim led this one, it's a hard 5a boulder problem with an MVS route stacked on top of it!
spenser - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/May/15

Alex Mason - Solo O/S - 07/Apr/15 with Jemma Powell

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 28/Feb/15 with Younghwa, Szymon

Rollo Rolo - 2nd - 28/Feb/15 with Younghwa, Steve Robinson

Adam Long - Solo O/S - 17/Feb/15

Cannot remember exact date this climb was done.
Russell Lovett - Solo O/S - 2015 with alone

the real dave - Lead rpt - 29/Sep/14 with Sam Webb

RD - Lead - 13/Sep/14

Ewanski - Lead - 16/Aug/14 with Nick B

FraserMcClennan - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

cpforbes - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14 with Fraser McClennan

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/14

alexmcmillan - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14 with Bella Hughes, Max Scherer

Klingon - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with Ian, Nimble, Capt Kirk

s.scott - Lead - 02/Aug/13

mot1 - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

el diablo - Lead - 16/Jun/13 with Mick James

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

tried to finish at the left end of the top overhang (per guidebook photo) but couldn't get up the seemingly blank slab so went left to finish up saints progress; only noticed the crack through the overhang further right (which I assume is the usual way?) once I was belaying at the top. next time!
morsy - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with peter berwick

Mark Bull - Lead rpt - 05/May/13 with Gillian

my start was less than stylish, but really nice climbing after that!
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Scott Baxtleby

jev - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with HWUMC

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/12

Ste Ridd - Lead - 15/Apr/12 with Jason, M.Sadler

jason - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with moose ridd, manmike

petegunn - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Tom, Eric, Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Nov/11

ewan i - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11 with felix

The slab in the middle was lovely, but Adrian had to haul me up the overhangs at start and finish so I could retrieve his gear.
sarah hawker - 2nd dnf - 23/Oct/11 with Adrian W

Adrianw - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Sarah Hawker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

sneaks - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11 with janey

daWalt - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Lisa

Trevera - Lead - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Mike-W-99 - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with Fiona

Top is hard, esp when you can't actually reach the crack sufficiently to use it! Resorted to ape like moves up the face holds then used the crack once I could reach the damn thing. Nailed it, but it was blooming hard work.
Fiona Reid - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Mike

James Prowse - 2nd - 29/May/11

Hard Start! 5b?
iceicebaby - 2nd RP - 20/May/11 with Sam Wood

Ginger McGrath - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with emily roo

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/11

escaped out right from the ledge.
daWalt - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/11 with timlukins

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 02/Apr/11

PiotrB - Lead rpt - 2011

lisafer - 2011

stugreen75 - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 07/Nov/10

Hidden - 01/Aug/10

Lawrie Brand - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Ian smith, John Chivall

graded MVS 5a in the "proper" guide; makes you suddenly think you lost your ability to climb
Trevera - 2nd - 10/Jul/10 with Neil Morby

j0shwyatt000 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/10

the real dave - 2nd - 31/May/10 with joshua wyatt

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with stg

Bags of variety - nice slab and a couple of overhangs. Crux at bottom, top is intimidating but there are jugs (for the tall).
barney800 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Katherine Shaw

Euan Strachan - Lead β - 10/Apr/10 with James C

Got off the ground but couldn't find the next hold! I must have been doing it wrong :'( will try again another day.
David Bulley - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/10 with Andy Chisholm

Andy Moles - 2nd - 17/Mar/10 with Burton

burto - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/10 with moleo

Fun route.
Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/10 with Marcus Horgan

scott gibson - 2010

carlh - 2010

jimmyrua - Lead rpt - Dec/09 with Euan Strachan

Euan Strachan - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Hanna G

sergio46 - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Ian Jones

Ridiculous grade of Severe in the old book. This has a thuggish, reachy and unprotected 5a start, a delicate 4c middle section and a thuggish 4c finish. Blatantly HVS and 2 grades harder than Gagarin's Groove.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Serge Gomez, Roger Benton

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/09

odox - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Sam Webb

petellis - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Cleric James Koran

jkarran - 2nd - 19/Apr/09 with Pete

getting off ground required three goes...
tomdude - 2nd dog - 10/Jan/09 with dave

Fenwick - 2009

Phill_ Thompson - Lead - 2009

petegunn - 2nd - 12/Oct/08 with Matt Reeve, Davina

Not MVS but HVS!
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

andyandy - Lead - 27/Apr/08 with Phil

Labled incorrectly in guidebook, line 29 on the diagram should be line 30 Saints Arete HVS 5b. Makes more sense.
beegsyboy - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Reinhart

Some MVS with that jamming crack
Colin Matheson - 2nd - 21/Sep/07 with Nick (Chalie's friend)

JonBrett - Lead - 15/Jul/07 with Oli Hutchinson

Powerful moves required to leave the ground. The abilty to heel hook at head height seems to be an advantage. Closer to top-end HVS than MVS!
climbingpixie - 2nd - 09/Jul/07 with James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/07

Stuart Macfarlane - Lead - 05/Aug/06 with John D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/04

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/04

malc - 2nd - 28/Oct/03 with CL

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/02

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/00

gypsy3006 - Lead - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/98 with jim

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - 2nd - May/94

Hidden - Solo - 30/Apr/94

uphillnow - Aug/92 with Margaret Smith

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

Willi Crater - 1992

beaumap - AltLd - 25/Aug/91 with Tim Waddington

steve taylor - Solo - Oct/86

Steve Crowe - Solo O/S - 13/Jun/86

Hidden - 1981

Hidden - 1980

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:

Total votes cast 50
hard HVS1 of 14
HVS0 of 14
easy HVS0 of 14
hard VS4 of 14
VS9 of 14
easy VS0 of 14
hard HS0 of 14
HS0 of 14
easy HS0 of 14
hard 5b0 of 19
5b1 of 19
easy 5b4 of 19
hard 5a9 of 19
5a5 of 19
easy 5a0 of 19
hard 4c0 of 19
4c0 of 19
easy 4c0 of 19
3 Stars4 of 17
2 Stars8 of 17
1 Star5 of 17
0 Stars0 of 17
Bag of .....0 of 17
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat
Clean RP