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Litany** VS 5a

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[PontiusPirate on Litany, 2 kb]Pull rightwards though the overhangs to a ledge, finish up the crack though the upper bulges. © ROCKFAX

Photo: PontiusPirate on Litany © dpmUK
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 93 logbooks, and on 3 wishlists.

FraserMcClennan - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 21/Jun/14

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 15/Apr/14

alexmcmillan - 2nd O/S - 23/Mar/14 with Bella Hughes, Max Scherer

Klingon - 2nd - 06/Oct/13 with Ian, Nimble, Capt Kirk

s.scott - Lead - 02/Aug/13

mot1 - Lead dnf - 30/Jun/13

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 30/Jun/13

el diablo - Lead - 16/Jun/13 with Mick James

Hidden - 2nd - 08/Jun/13

tried to finish at the left end of the top overhang (per guidebook photo) but couldn't get up the seemingly blank slab so went left to finish up saints progress; only noticed the crack through the overhang further right (which I assume is the usual way?) once I was belaying at the top. next time!
morsy - Lead dnf - 05/May/13 with peter berwick

Mark Bull - Lead rpt - 05/May/13 with Gillian

my start was less than stylish, but really nice climbing after that!
Gabe Oliver - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/13 with Scott Baxtleby

jev - Lead O/S - 18/Nov/12 with HWUMC

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Apr/12

moose ridd - Lead - 15/Apr/12 with Jason, M.Sadler

jason - 2nd - 15/Apr/12 with moose ridd, manmike

petegunn - Lead - 11/Mar/12 with Tom, Eric, Davina

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - 23/Feb/12

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Nov/11

ewan i - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/11 with felix

The slab in the middle was lovely, but Adrian had to haul me up the overhangs at start and finish so I could retrieve his gear.
sarah hawker - 2nd dnf - 23/Oct/11 with Adrian W

Adrianw - Lead O/S - 23/Oct/11 with Sarah Hawker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/11

sneaks - 2nd rpt - 22/Oct/11 with janey

daWalt - Lead O/S - 24/Sep/11 with Lisa

Trevera - Lead - 03/Jul/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/11

Mike_Watson_99 - 2nd - 26/Jun/11 with Fiona

Top is hard, esp when you can't actually reach the crack sufficiently to use it! Resorted to ape like moves up the face holds then used the crack once I could reach the damn thing. Nailed it, but it was blooming hard work.
Fiona Reid - Lead O/S - 26/Jun/11 with Mike

James Prowse - 2nd - 29/May/11

Hard Start! 5b?
iceicebaby - 2nd RP - 20/May/11 with Sam Wood

Ginger McGrath - 2nd O/S - 02/Apr/11 with emily roo

Hidden - Lead - 02/Apr/11

escaped out right from the ledge.
daWalt - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/11 with timlukins

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 02/Apr/11

PiotrB - Lead rpt - 2011

lisafer - 2011

stugreen75 - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 07/Nov/10

Hidden - 01/Aug/10

Lawrie Brand - 2nd O/S - 27/Jul/10 with Ian smith, John Chivall

graded MVS 5a in the "proper" guide; makes you suddenly think you lost your ability to climb
Trevera - 2nd - 10/Jul/10 with Neil Morby

j0shwyatt000 - Lead O/S - 01/Jun/10

the real dave - 2nd - 31/May/10 with joshua wyatt

mikecollins - Lead O/S - 30/May/10 with stg

Bags of variety - nice slab and a couple of overhangs. Crux at bottom, top is intimidating but there are jugs (for the tall).
barney800 - Lead O/S - 24/Apr/10 with Katherine Shaw

Euan Strachan - Lead β - 10/Apr/10 with James C

Got off the ground but couldn't find the next hold! I must have been doing it wrong :'( will try again another day.
David Bulley - Lead dnf - 02/Apr/10 with Andy Chisholm

Andy Moles - 2nd - 17/Mar/10 with Burton

burto - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/10 with moleo

Fun route.
Roberttaylor - Lead O/S - 17/Mar/10 with Marcus Horgan

scott gibson - 2010

Hidden - 2010

jimmyrua - Lead rpt - Dec/09 with Euan Strachan

Euan Strachan - 2nd O/S - 15/Nov/09 with Hanna G

sergio46 - 2nd O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Ian Jones

Ridiculous grade of Severe in the old book. This has a thuggish, reachy and unprotected 5a start, a delicate 4c middle section and a thuggish 4c finish. Blatantly HVS and 2 grades harder than Gagarin's Groove.
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 25/Oct/09 with Serge Gomez, Roger Benton

Hidden - 2nd - 25/Oct/09

odox - 2nd O/S - 20/Sep/09 with Sam Webb

petellis - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/09 with Cleric James Koran

jkarran - 2nd - 19/Apr/09 with Pete

getting off ground required three goes...
tomdude - 2nd dog - 10/Jan/09 with dave

Fenwick - 2009

petegunn - 2nd - 12/Oct/08 with Matt Reeve, Davina

Not MVS but HVS!
clive-greenwood - Lead O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Mike Nuttall

MikeLeeds - 2nd O/S - 31/Aug/08 with Clive Greenwood

andyandy - Lead - 27/Apr/08 with Phil

Labled incorrectly in guidebook, line 29 on the diagram should be line 30 Saints Arete HVS 5b. Makes more sense.
beegsyboy - Lead O/S - 23/Feb/08 with Reinhart

Some MVS with that jamming crack
Colin Matheson - 2nd - 21/Sep/07 with Nick (Chalie's friend)

JonBrett - Lead - 15/Jul/07 with Oli Hutchinson

Powerful moves required to leave the ground. The abilty to heel hook at head height seems to be an advantage. Closer to top-end HVS than MVS!
climbingpixie - 2nd - 09/Jul/07 with James

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/07

Stuart Macfarlane - Lead - 05/Aug/06 with John D

Hidden - Lead O/S - 06/Jun/04

Hidden - 2nd - 06/Jun/04

Hidden - Lead - 17/Apr/04

malc - 2nd - 28/Oct/03 with CL

Hidden - Lead - 05/Oct/02

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Apr/02

Hidden - Lead - 17/Jun/00

gypsy3006 - Lead - 2000

Roget - Solo O/S - 07/Sep/98 with jim

John Pickles - Lead O/S - 1998

Hidden - 2nd - May/94

Hidden - Solo - 30/Apr/94

Marti999 - Lead - 1992

AndrewW - 1992

beaumap - AltLd - 25/Aug/91 with Tim Waddington

steve taylor - Solo - Oct/86

Hidden - 1981

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
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Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard HVS1 of 12
HVS0 of 12
easy HVS0 of 12
hard VS3 of 12
VS8 of 12
easy VS0 of 12
hard HS0 of 12
HS0 of 12
easy HS0 of 12
hard 5b0 of 17
5b1 of 17
easy 5b4 of 17
hard 5a7 of 17
5a5 of 17
easy 5a0 of 17
hard 4c0 of 17
4c0 of 17
easy 4c0 of 17
3 Stars3 of 15
2 Stars7 of 15
1 Star5 of 15
0 Stars0 of 15
Bag of .....0 of 15
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Style of ascent

Soloed3 of 93 (3.2%)
Lead47 of 93 (50.5%)
Followed35 of 93 (37.6%)
Alt Leads1 of 93 (1.1%)
Unknown7 of 93 (7.5%)

'Climbed'45 of 93 (48.4%)
clean O/S35 of 93 (37.6%)
clean β1 of 93 (1.1%)
clean rpt4 of 93 (4.3%)
clean RP1 of 93 (1.1%)
dogged1 of 93 (1.1%)
dnf6 of 93 (6.5%)