Take the obvious chimney to the on left halfway up the buttress before the snow fan and the usual exit. Climb this to a cave belay and exit right then straight up on steep mixed ground. This adds an extra pitch and about 40 more meters climbing donít confuse it for the left hand variation.
Last two pitches sustained and steep. Suspect we did different variation from the 'left hand finish' in the guidebook. Snow and ice in fairly good condition but wind (gusting 70 to 80 mph) was a big problem RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 11/Feb/07 with andymoin
Took thinking it was the easier left hand variation, great climbing on good ice and hard nevie; with some slab just were u don't want it.
Crazy day with 80mph gusts, blown about like a flag attached to two ice axes on several occasions, very scary.
andymoin - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/07