Rockfax Description
The classic of the wall. Start up a small flake and follow the line of weakness up and left across the wall. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Reach-dependent crux above good gear - E4 6a for the tall/E5 6b for the short? New bolts added to Olympus Trip are just far enough away not to detract from this as a trad lead.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Ultimate E5 ticklist.


ClimberDateStyle
JulesV 05/Jun Lead O/S
with Shauna
Hidden 26/May Lead dog
Hidden 21/May Lead G/U
Shauna ?/May 2nd
with Jules
Hidden ??/2016 -
Justin T 11/Sep/15 Lead dnf

Went for the retro-flash after trying Mr Olympia, massively fluffed up placing gear in after crux resulting in failing shortly after and worst pump I've had for several years. Had to clip-stick up adjacent route to strip it as still couldn't climb 20min later!

with Nancy
soph 11/Jul/15 Lead dog

Took a while to sort out head for slappy move

with Tony Stone
Hidden 24/Apr/15 Lead G/U
Adam Lincoln 06/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with Rick Kirby
Rich Kirby 03/Sep/14 2nd rpt
Tom Livingstone 17/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 31/May/14 Lead G/U
oliverpcain ??/2014 Lead rpt
Hidden ??/2014 Lead
Justin T 10/Sep/12 Lead dog

A frustrating failure to route-read saw me at the tunnel-visioned at the crux grappling with a non-hold, fell off attempting to reverse to ground for a reappraisal whereupon the obvious holds became annoyingly apparent.

Alex Mason 03/Jul/12 Lead O/S

The last in the chain gang trilogy and definitely the best. Pretty greasy, humid conditions. Sprinted it out to the top groove and spent as long on the top move alone, as I had on the rest of the route.

with Jim McCormack
zero six ?/Jul/12 Lead O/S

Finally after so long. Hard to say o/s as I've been present so often when people have been on it, but it didn't feel like I knew the moves or gear in advance.

Hidden 25/Jun/12 Lead RP
Dave Warburton 25/Jun/12 Lead β

6a for me at 5' 9" and no cross through?. On Conor's gear. Excellent moves; surprisingly steep.

with Bert, Conor
Hidden 02/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Eric the Fish ??/2012 -

felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: swam rightwards from vertical slot - convinced in my little fishy brain that this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold - but no! (also, I don't have feet). Tried to go back left but floundered like a little fishy out of water. Got flustered, pumped and rested, feeling thouroughly battered. :( Boo hoo. Pulled back on with my little fins immediately, leapt like a salmon up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-fin move. Had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. So, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks and rock pool (this seems only way that would give a cross-fin or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and swam so well). Anyway, perfect protection for a little fishy like me, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at Eel4), Fried 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove. Super :)))) Eric out.

LRob ??/2012 Lead
Cailean Harker 12/Nov/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Nov/11 2nd
Hidden 16/Jul/11 TR
CRiddiford 15/Jul/11 TR dog
with Tom Redmond, Mike
thomasadixon 15/Jul/11 Lead RP

Super pumpy but no really hard moves...except the cross through that probably wasn't needed.

with Mike
Rob Pitt 07/Jun/11 Lead β
with Lee Roberts
Luke Brooks 19/Mar/11 Lead

Ground up with beta after 1 fall.

with Bertie, Barni
barni 19/Mar/11 Lead RP
with bertie, luke
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
mwatson ??/2011 Lead O/S

Didn't find any cross through move? did swap hands at one point which could have been it but swapping hands was pretty easy. first E5

Hidden 03/Aug/10 TR dog
dan gibson 26/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with blair fyffe
ksjs 03/Jul/10 Lead dog

felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: stepped right from vertical slot (convinced this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold) but no easy way up, tried to go back left but struggled as quite blind, got flustered, pumped and rested :( pulled back on immediately, went up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-through. had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. so, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks (this seems only way that would give a cross-through or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and climbed so well). anyway, perfect protection, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at E4), Fr 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove.

with rob
ksjs 04/Jun/10 Lead dnf

reversed from vertical slot - hot and sweating. surprised by physicality, will need to be fresh for this...

with pete
Toby Dunn ?/Apr/10 Lead
with Andy Reeve
Hidden 01/Feb/10 Lead rpt
Hidden 21/Jun/09 Lead O/S
mattyork2 09/Jun/09 Lead dog

A great experience that taught me how much harder safe e5 is going to be compared to French 6 grade trad routes.....Best get beasted this Summer and come back with a fresh approach ( :

with Rory Shawe
miastacey 30/May/09 2nd

1 rest, reachy and powerful.

with Bob Smith
nige 16/May/09 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
switch 28/Sep/08 Lead O/S

Could be E4 6a for the tall / E5 6b for the short. Crux is above good gear.

Steve Crowe 13/Jul/02 Lead O/S

Superb day 1 x E6, 3 x E5's, 1 x E4, 2 x E2's

with KM
michael burrows 15/Aug/89 TR
with andy boorman
Mike Owen 14/Jun/87 Lead rpt
with Elaine Owen
mark mcgowan01 ??/1987 -
Mike Owen 16/Sep/84 Lead O/S
with John Peake
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ewan Russell, Nick Saunders, Hidden, Billg, Alex Mason, mattyork2
Voting
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 14
High 6c
Mid 6c
Low 6c
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
Votes cast 14
Votes cast 14
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Dogged
Repeated
Redpoint
Ground Up
DNF
Flashed (β)
Not Set