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Chain Gang*** E5 6b

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Reach-dependent crux above good gear - E4 6a for the tall/E5 6b for the short? New bolts added to Olympus Trip are just far enough away not to detract from this as a trad lead.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 37 logbooks, and on 4 wishlists.

oliverpcain - Lead rpt - 2014

Hidden - Lead - 2014

A frustrating failure to route-read saw me at the tunnel-visioned at the crux grappling with a non-hold, fell off attempting to reverse to ground for a reappraisal whereupon the obvious holds became annoyingly apparent.
Justin T - Lead dog - 10/Sep/12

The last in the chain gang trilogy and definitely the best. Pretty greasy, humid conditions. Sprinted it out to the top groove and spent as long on the top move alone, as I had on the rest of the route.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/12 with Jim McCormack

Finally after so long. Hard to say o/s as I've been present so often when people have been on it, but it didn't feel like I knew the moves or gear in advance.
zero six - Lead O/S - Jul/12

Hidden - Lead RP - 25/Jun/12

6a for me at 5' 9" and no cross through?. On Conor's gear. Excellent moves; surprisingly steep.
Dave Warburton - Lead β - 25/Jun/12 with Bert, Conor

Ally Smith - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/12 with Curly Chris

felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: swam rightwards from vertical slot - convinced in my little fishy brain that this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold - but no! (also, I don't have feet). Tried to go back left but floundered like a little fishy out of water. Got flustered, pumped and rested, feeling thouroughly battered. :( Boo hoo. Pulled back on with my little fins immediately, leapt like a salmon up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-fin move. Had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. So, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks and rock pool (this seems only way that would give a cross-fin or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and swam so well). Anyway, perfect protection for a little fishy like me, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at Eel4), Fried 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove. Super :)))) Eric out.
Eric the Fish - 2012

LRob - Lead - 2012

Cailean Harker - Lead O/S - 12/Nov/11

sonnenstern - 2nd - 01/Nov/11 with Ollie

majorly pumpy and steep!! but very nice moves
Tom Redmond - TR - 16/Jul/11 with mike watson

CRiddiford - TR dog - 15/Jul/11 with Tom Redmond, Mike

Super pumpy but no really hard moves...except the cross through that probably wasn't needed.
thomasadixon - Lead RP - 15/Jul/11 with Mike

Rob Pitt - Lead β - 07/Jun/11 with Lee Roberts

Ground up with beta after 1 fall.
Luke Brooks - Lead - 19/Mar/11 with Bertie, Barni

barni - Lead RP - 19/Mar/11 with bertie, luke

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Didn't find any cross through move? did swap hands at one point which could have been it but swapping hands was pretty easy. first E5
mwatson - Lead O/S - 2011

Hidden - TR dog - 03/Aug/10

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Jul/10 with blair fyffe

felt annoyed, cheated and confused by this: stepped right from vertical slot (convinced this was necessary due to proximity of Olympus Trip, guide description and prominent foothold) but no easy way up, tried to go back left but struggled as quite blind, got flustered, pumped and rested :( pulled back on immediately, went up just left of vertical slot: straightforward, no 6b and no cross-through. had to rest again above as was so disgusted as what had just gone on. so, which way: direct i.e. through bulge or right via narrow cracks (this seems only way that would give a cross-through or 6b move yet the way i went was totally logical and climbed so well). anyway, perfect protection, immaculate climbing and straightforward (wouldnt feel wrong at E4), Fr 6c. take BD cam size 1 (red) for slot and thin sling for finishing groove.
ksjs - Lead dog - 03/Jul/10 with rob

reversed from vertical slot - hot and sweating. surprised by physicality, will need to be fresh for this...
ksjs - Lead dnf - 04/Jun/10 with pete

Toby Dunn - Lead - Apr/10 with Andy Reeve

Hidden - Lead rpt - 01/Feb/10

Kevin Avery - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/09 with John Shepherd

A great experience that taught me how much harder safe e5 is going to be compared to French 6 grade trad routes.....Best get beasted this Summer and come back with a fresh approach ( :
mattyork2 - Lead dog - 09/Jun/09 with Rory Shawe

1 rest, reachy and powerful.
miastacey - 2nd - 30/May/09 with Bob Smith

nige - Lead O/S - 16/May/09 with mark hounslea

Could be E4 6a for the tall / E5 6b for the short. Crux is above good gear.
switch - Lead O/S - 28/Sep/08

Superb day 1 x E6, 3 x E5's, 1 x E4, 2 x E2's
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 13/Jul/02 with KM

michael burrows - TR - 15/Aug/89 with andy boorman

mark mcgowan01 - 1987

Mike Owen - 16/Sep/84 with John Peake

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Billg, Alex Mason, mattyork2

Voting
Total votes cast 33
hard E60 of 11
E60 of 11
easy E60 of 11
hard E51 of 11
E57 of 11
easy E53 of 11
hard E40 of 11
E40 of 11
easy E40 of 11
hard 6c0 of 11
6c0 of 11
easy 6c0 of 11
hard 6b0 of 11
6b5 of 11
easy 6b1 of 11
hard 6a4 of 11
6a0 of 11
easy 6a1 of 11
3 Stars10 of 11
2 Stars1 of 11
1 Star0 of 11
0 Stars0 of 11
Bag of .....0 of 11
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Style of ascent

Lead25 of 37 (67.6%)
Followed2 of 37 (5.4%)
Toproped4 of 37 (10.8%)
Unknown6 of 37 (16.2%)

'Climbed'14 of 37 (37.8%)
clean O/S10 of 37 (27.0%)
clean β2 of 37 (5.4%)
clean rpt2 of 37 (5.4%)
clean RP3 of 37 (8.1%)
dogged5 of 37 (13.5%)
dnf1 of 37 (2.7%)