16m. Offwidth corner crack with threatening exposure makes for a quality climb.

Ticklists: Orange Spot Lower Wye, 4 - 5 Grade Climbs at Ban-Y-Gor Area.


ClimberDateStyle
Tree-normas 23/Aug Lead O/S
Taggeraug 23/Aug Lead rpt
smashers 15/Aug Lead RP

Slipped off the awkward start on my first try, then got back on and led it clean second go. Nice route.

with James
Geraint 'Moz' Morris 13/Aug Lead O/S
with Paul Christie
danieleaston 11/Aug Lead G/U
with Stephan
Hidden 10/Aug Lead
PaddyAdams 10/Aug Lead O/S
Ali Burns 07/Aug Lead O/S
with Simon Smithson
Mikeb163 07/Aug Lead O/S
with Rob
stopjonny 06/Aug Lead
BStar 03/Jul Lead O/S

Some physical moves to get to the top. Good climbing

with Rachael
Rachael88 03/Jul -
with Adam
themenwithven 26/Jun Lead dog
The Ivanator 19/Jun Lead rpt

Not sure where this climb has suddenly acquired 3* status from on UKC - it is decent and worth a star, but is never a 3* classic.

with Rob
Hidden 19/Jun Lead
Hidden 05/Jun Lead O/S
Hidden 05/Jun Lead
Hidden 04/Jun Lead O/S
hairy51 31/May Lead O/S
Benjaminblanc 31/May Lead O/S
Aaron Lines 30/May Lead O/S

good climb

Olly-tech 28/May 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/May 2nd dnf
tim.rose2 28/May Lead
Taggeraug 05/May Lead
Si Carter 23/Apr -
with Colin Tiley
Leonhamnett 17/Apr Lead O/S
with James Rucinski
guy127917 16/Apr Lead O/S
with Laura, Jen
Hidden 16/Apr Lead
LauraMorrissey 16/Apr TR dog
spoonernz 09/Apr Lead O/S
spoonernz 09/Apr Lead O/S
Lewis Read ??/2016 Lead O/S
with chris
oli87 ??/2016 Lead O/S
chris cockbain 17/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Tom Draude 17/Oct/15 2nd
springfall2008 09/Sep/15 Lead O/S

Nice line up the big crack, although mainly using the rock to the right of it. I did fix a small wire ahead of the crux although it wasn't really needed.

Hidden 29/Aug/15 Lead
Hidden 15/Aug/15 2nd
will_benfold 15/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Little Alex, Pete Cawley
joshdownham23 ?/Aug/15 Lead O/S
with Circus
Tomas P 04/Jul/15 Lead O/S
with Aelita
FernandoHidalgo 01/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Lead it again for some friends. Amazing route... 3 starts.

with Russell Jackson
zimpara 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S

Stunning-with enjoyable climbing throughout. Character revealing! Excellent by all accounts and to be climbed again! Spicy up high as other logs suggest.

drgrange 04/Jun/15 Lead O/S
with Zimpara
Hidden 23/May/15 Lead
wjcdean 17/May/15 Lead O/S

Thrutchy bridging fun

Trevers 16/May/15 2nd
Tom Gale 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
with Ellie
Hidden 25/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Legs 20/Aug/14 Lead O/S
andyman666999 13/Aug/14 Lead

Repeat.

with Cathryn Johnson
Hidden 07/Aug/14 Lead
Ian Stirrups 07/Aug/14 2nd

Awkward start. Badly bolted

with Bill T, Sue
Stanners 04/Aug/14 Lead O/S

Tricky start and a little awkward in places - but anyone feeling the need to place trad gear needs to get a grip ;)

with Alkis, Andy G, Jack Bradbrook
andyman666999 04/Aug/14 Lead

Repeat

with Cathryn Johnson
Adam Polak 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Daisy
AngelaC 31/Jul/14 2nd
with Andy, Alex
Hidden 31/Jul/14 Lead O/S
LucasHarazin 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
Circus 25/Jul/14 Lead O/S
with Adam P
metcalfe1990 24/Jul/14 Lead
andyman666999 13/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Really nice climb all over. Defo should have at least one star.

with Greg ellis
Hidden ?/Jul/14 Lead
DWebs 22/Jun/14 Lead O/S
Rob Morgan 17/Jun/14 Lead
Hidden 08/Jun/14 Lead O/S
chrisclimber ?/Jun/14 Lead O/S
mikedevcole 27/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/May/14 Lead O/S
pimpy 26/May/14 Lead O/S
with Mladin
Paul Baxter 26/May/14 Lead O/S

Nice

Hidden 18/May/14 2nd rpt
chris85 17/May/14 Lead O/S
kieranbowen 17/May/14 Lead O/S
with Jonny, Ruth
James_L88 03/May/14 Lead O/S
UnkArl 03/May/14 Lead β
Hidden 22/Mar/14 Lead dnf
shaunstar9 16/Mar/14 Lead β

Tricky moves to start, quite bold in the middle whilst gaining the ledge. No extra trad protection required really though...just need to have a word with yourself and commit!! Great view from the top. Note: Take care with the uppermost lower off bolt as the nut is loose!!

with Leigh
leigh 16/Mar/14 Lead rpt
with Shaun
Hidden ??/2014 Lead O/S
chrisclimber ?/Sep/13 Lead O/S
chrisclimber 24/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jonlord 10/Aug/13 Lead O/S
jayyaj 28/Jul/13 Lead
AlexHerbert79 28/Jul/13 Lead RP

I returned to face my nemisis. IUts still my nemisis! I freaked out a bit on the ledge again... After decsending so that my partner (thanks Jason X) could go back up and put in some extra trad protection, I did it. Just a wire on top of the overhanging block makes a huge difference.

craigaj.ace 25/Jul/13 Lead
with James
Mark Salter 18/Jul/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 14/Jul/13 Lead
tobydunford 12/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kirsty Kerr
Steve Bartle 12/Jul/13 2nd O/S
SamJones974 06/Jul/13 Lead O/S
SamStokes 06/Jul/13 Lead rpt
FernandoHidalgo 30/Jun/13 Lead rpt

Amazing views at the top.

Hidden 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
ardzeiem 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
with Nigel
LittleEm 22/Jun/13 Lead O/S
gripped01 19/May/13 Lead
with Jim Jarvis, Dave Tait
Rowan Mitchell 19/May/13 Lead O/S
with Andre Steele
mallardhealhook 18/May/13 Lead O/S
evhall 18/May/13 Lead O/S
with Steve P, jon M
wilsers 06/May/13 Lead O/S

The last move was quite bold - for me!

James Wilson 06/May/13 TR O/S

Pete lead it first then I went up on a bottom rope - Dad belayed.

with Pete Bale, Andy Wilson
AlexHerbert79 06/May/13 Lead dnf

Go to go back. First day leading outdoors. Reached the ledge but couldn't quite overcome my nerves to move out right and over the boulder. Good tip on other climbers logbook to use a wire. Next time!!

jiggerypokery 04/May/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/13 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Feb/13 2nd
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Nov/12 Lead O/S
youbecame 11/Nov/12 2nd dog
SamStokes 08/Nov/12 Lead rpt
brenzy83 08/Nov/12 Lead O/S
callumdavey92 08/Nov/12 TR β
Rob Griffiths 30/Oct/12 Lead O/S

Hard start for the grade. The moves go right from the large ledge so the top 2 bolts are not in a great position. Take some wires to avoid a potential slapper!

sianabanana 30/Sep/12 2nd dog
with Anna
The Ivanator 22/Sep/12 Lead O/S

Not hard, but has its awkward moments.

with Rob
mike reed 15/Sep/12 -
JamesColeman ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
with Alan
Hidden ?/Jun/12 Lead O/S
CraigMcAteer 16/May/12 Lead rpt
sianabanana 13/May/12 Lead dnf

Found getting off the ground difficult but eventually found the right combination. Was to scared to move off the ledge to finish. Repeated on a top rope to find that there were very nice big holds when you do manage to pull up and over.

with Simon, Gemma
jamespilgrim 06/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Mark
The Norris 27/Mar/12 Lead O/S

Nice climb, bit of an awkward start, and I got a bit too comfy on the big ledge and had to have a word with myself to leave it! at least i didnt have to have a sit down on it like Neil did though!

with neil
Stuart.Adams 17/Mar/12 Lead dnf

Basturd Crack!!

with Ali Ross, Tom Adams
mrfeebus ??/2012 -
shoulders 16/Nov/11 Lead
with dai
Neil Tucker 16/Oct/11 Lead
with Robert Bronsdon, Richard Reynolds
Country_Boy 08/Oct/11 Lead dnf

Got quite a way up then couldn't figure out my way off the big ledge. Bailed :-( My first attempts at outdoor sport weren't great.

with Anton
tomhill#1 24/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 01/Sep/11 Lead O/S
McKEuan 25/Aug/11 Lead O/S
Dandan82 22/Aug/11 Lead β
Carnie Lisa 22/Aug/11 2nd β
with Dan Verge
TrevorCruse 04/Aug/11 Lead O/S
with Malcolm
Hidden 31/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Stone Muppet 14/Jul/11 Lead O/S
with ah, jg
Hidden 05/Jul/11 Lead O/S
JamieTown 19/Jun/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 22/May/11 Lead O/S
dawesbub 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

really enjoyed the experience

SamStokes 10/Apr/11 Lead rpt
Dave Toseland ??/2011 Lead RP
with Dan, Fred
d_meacher 02/Sep/10 Lead O/S
jas128 11/Aug/10 Lead β
Hidden 11/Aug/10 Lead O/S
eroica64 11/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Straightforward and enjoyable.

with Rehan
SamStokes 04/Jul/10 Lead rpt
Ed Coombes 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/Jun/10 2nd
Rustyshanks 23/Jun/10 Lead
with Sam Lemkey
jpalmer ?/Jun/10 Lead
with bro
pezzerrr 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
BB1 18/Apr/10 TR
Hidden 17/Apr/10 Lead O/S
Fatclimber 04/Apr/10 Lead

Very nice moves near the top.

with Self Belayed
Sam W 21/Mar/10 Lead O/S
with Nina Jenkinson
brices ??/2010 Lead O/S
Bespoke by Nature 12/Aug/09 Lead O/S

not the best!

with Rich R
Hidden 18/Jul/09 Lead β
james.lane 02/Jun/09 Lead O/S
tincann 02/Jun/09 2nd O/S
Dax 12/May/09 Lead O/S

I really liked this climb .. interesting start, then lovely bridging moves up and nice sequence to get onto the face at the top .. lovely.

Watch out for the loose large hanging flake low down (about thrid move up the route). It's big and it's loose and it may well hit your belayer!

with Ward
the rec 12/May/09 TR rpt
with Darrell
peaches69 10/May/09 Lead O/S
with sarah
Rustyshanks 09/May/09 Lead O/S
with V Lapping
the rec 07/May/09 Lead dnf

rain stopped play at the penultimate bolt. Free snapgate for the next person up there!

with Darrell
Hidden 24/Mar/09 Lead β
leigh 28/Feb/09 Lead O/S
with Ed
saz_b ??/2009 -
Hidden 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
Harphead 08/Oct/08 Lead O/S
with Spicerman
Hidden 27/Sep/08 Lead
Tim W 10/Aug/08 Lead O/S
Sam W 26/Jul/08 Lead
Quirina 02/Jul/08 2nd O/S
3 Names 22/Jun/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jun/08 Lead O/S
scorpia97 13/Jun/08 2nd
with Caspian
Hjort 09/Jun/08 Lead O/S
tweedcore 12/May/08 Lead O/S
with Jam
SamStokes 08/May/08 Lead O/S
Clarky10 08/May/08 Lead
webbe01 08/May/08 TR O/S
with Sam Clarke
Hidden ?/May/08 2nd O/S
Hidden 28/Apr/08 Lead O/S
Hidden 07/Apr/07 Lead β
Paul Robertson 18/Feb/07 2nd O/S
with Tony Payne
Outdoorfun37 12/Aug/03 2nd
Hidden ??/2000 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
AshleyLong, smashers, Pixie-Andy, Hidden, megamonkeyman, Hidden, Dassie
Voting
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 27
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Flashed (β)
DNF
Dogged
Redpoint
Ground Up
Not Set