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Smith's Route*** V 5

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[The upper gully of Smith's, 1 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Cold Climbs, Robin Smith Legacy.

Photo: The upper gully of Smith's © Jim Fraser
View all 34 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 171 logbooks, and on 93 wishlists.

prcleary - 2014

Pumped miserably and had to rest on P2. Had an epic trying (and failing) to get through the cornice, ripping a couple of screws falling off trying to get through it. Downclimbed and abbed off once we found the way down. Conditions are good on P1 and P2. Icicle not fully formed. Do not go to the top, no real anchor near the cornice and it's too big to get through. One 60m abseil from the tat on the right near the bottom of the easy ground atop P2 will get you to safety.
RKernan - AltLd dog - 16/Mar/13 with Stuart Abraham

stuart90 - AltLd - 16/Mar/13 with ronan kernan

Led P1. Kirill led crux P2. I then led to the top, split into two since I didn't have enough rope to get over the cornice. Excellent route!
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov

Slogged all the way to Gardyloo Buttress in an attempt to reach the freezing level. Ice a bit crumbly, had really hard time keeping my feet on. Clipped the axe for a sneaky rest. Arrived at the belay completely destroyed. Tremendous route!
Kirill - AltLd dog - 03/Mar/13 with Paul Bolton

mjsmith1973 - 2nd - 27/Mar/12 with Mike Pescod

Great Route, hanging belay at the cave, got soaked. Hard vertical ice after the hanging belay was 'interesting'. Did the original route and not the icicle route.
Andy Hewison - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Mark Chadwick

Enough ice, but melting fast. The icicle is relatively solid. Should still be OK tomorrow.
rufus.duits - Solo - 10/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Mar/12

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/12

machars - AltLd - 04/Mar/12 with Bjorn Verduijn

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Mar/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/12

lead p1 and p3 (fnished via the last pitch of kellets route) Jan lead the icicle variation on P2 quality
Tom Campbell - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/12

joeydurkin - 2nd - 24/Feb/12 with Stu H, Patch

Liam FLeming - 24/Feb/12 with chris thorn

First and third pitch. Return visit after Tuesday's drama (see below). Retrieved gear left and also found some! Great route, need to return to lead the crux second pitch at some point, which is definitely 'out there' as mentioned.
wadh1720 - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12 with jimmyk

First pitch fine, James off route on second and took fall. Abbed off tatt and sacrificed some gear. Otherwise great route. Will be back.
wadh1720 - 2nd dnf - 14/Feb/12 with Chris L, jimmyk

TeeBee - AltLd - 13/Feb/12

very fat although the column by the cave wasn't formed.
Tom Vivian - 2nd - 12/Feb/12 with chris thorne

mark-abz - 2nd - 12/Feb/12 with Tom V, Chris T

Tim Sparrow - 12/Feb/12 with Ned

Surprisingly good on a day of 'anticyclonic gloom' as predicted by mwis
Heike - 11/Feb/12 with Brian

Via icicle. Warmish day but good conditions
furbrow - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with Dave A

simonward - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/12

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/12

Epic!
olekemi - AltLd - 28/Jan/12 with Florian U

1st and third pitches. Fell off traverse on second.
tsl42 - AltLd dog - 28/Jan/12 with Chris Davis

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jan/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/12

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jan/12

Rob Pitt - 25/Jan/12 with Lee Roberts, Jon Ratcliffe

Original route wasn't formed so we took the icicle variation - which felt steep, exposed and scary! Great placements on hard ice all the way though.
guyscott - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/12 with Klas

Edvin m - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/12

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jan/12

great route. easy first time placements almost all the way and great sustained second pitch.
James S - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/12 with sam

Not in very good style. Not enough decent screws.
MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 15/Jan/12 with Simon Smith

nikkimac - 2nd - Jan/12 with Flash

luckyjim - 2012

Narked4fun - 2012

mark88 - Lead - 03/Apr/11 with Alex Vaughan

Ice a bit soft, but bomber axe placements. Lots of spindrift.
Ian Dunbar - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Phil Hall

vaughany - 2nd - 03/Apr/11 with mark patterson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/11

Lead pitches 2 and 4. Did the original variation. http://vimeo.com/24963568
niallk - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Willie

tjmillen - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with ray cassidy, vicky

First belay was a bit drippy (more like a cold shower!) but great route!
allyrocke - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Phil Jennings

Good solid ice, the route was well picked out. Note only the original was in.
mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with mike moss

mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11

Ice was good for climbing but not so good for screws. Really good route.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Rob Gray

Started 4pm! Did both pitches together as the belay was dripping, super plastic ice made it very easy today. Steve did a great variation top pitch up the groove left of the normal route - not in guidebook?
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 05/Mar/11 with Kiwi Steve

rob1 - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with martin haworth

gripped01 - Lead - Mar/11 with Dave Tait

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/11

Seconded with sling harness as I had forgotten mine, doh...
buzby78 - 2nd - 01/Jan/11 with McGeek

Hidden - 2011

adie84 - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Tenko - 2011

Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/10

excellent conditions on this sunny Monday on the route - but Bradley got injured by falling ice (was ok the next day)
HansUDes - 2nd dnf - 29/Mar/10 with Spike Sellers, Bradley Morrell

Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/10

Climbed the original line which was in good nick.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Peter Flanagan

The party in front faffed around on 1st pitch for ages (possibly 2 hours or more!). Should've overtaken them. My climbing partner too nice to do just that. Ended up getting back to hut at almost 10pm whereas we got to the bottom of the route at 10am!
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with John Flitcroft

Led the second, crux pitch. Gear was far from ideal, but first time axe placements. Icicle was there, but very thin. Great route!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 20/Mar/10 with Alex Wheldon

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - Mar/10

Hidden - 2010

colinthrelfall - 2010

Great day out - perfect weather and conditions. A little bit exciting on the crux as a fairly sustained steep pitch and not sure all the screws were very good! Certainly not late season soft grades at the moment though ice for axes is solid. Icicle is almost there too and Kellet's should be formed soon....Great to do an ice route before Christmas!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Emily

amazing climb, psyced to get back up to the ben soon. Think i did a little, harder varition. Went up too the left of the iceicle variation then joined the hanging slab.
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Mike G

Love the cave belay!
adamscottthomas - AltLd - 19/Mar/09 with Andy Wardle

Hidden - Lead - 17/Mar/09

Icicle variation. Classic water ice climbing. Great gear and belays
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/09 with Lorenzo Antolovi

Icicle Variation. V wet day, but route in good condition. I was wet and cold from the walk in so not in the best of moods to appreciate it.
Becky E - 2nd - 26/Feb/09 with Phil Lee & Trevor Wilson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09

Like Norway with a bugger of a walk in!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/09 with Neill Busby

cragmanuk - 2009 with Ian Lamb, John Elliott,Fergal Corrigan

With Tim Neil as part of work day
davebrox - 2nd - 2009

An early season ascent. Only the original line was there, which was climbing very steep for V,5. Excellent section of 85/90 degrees for 5m, but thin for screws at times.
akhughes - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Greg B

Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/08

Icicle variation
dangates - AltLd - May/08 with Kirk Watson

Icicle variation
dangates - AltLd - May/08 with Kirk Watson

Richard White - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/08 with Rimon Than

Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/08 with George Taylor

Ian took a 'variation' (kellett's) which was about VI. Belay Cave was quite good fun! On the final steep section my placements were poor, so i was in the process of replacing one, when my OK axe pulled. Down i went. From about 50 metres due to a belay faliure. Absolutely fine, if not a bit shaken!! - Ian Broke his hand and was helped by fellow climbers. Cheers to all, Dave & Ian
Dave Warburton - 2nd dnf - 09/Apr/08 with IanJackson

great route...icicle variation...cic hut
alan wilson - AltLd - 25/Mar/08 with n smith

ewen - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08 with the kettle

John Kettle - AltLd - 23/Mar/08

Leading through the icicle is amazing - full on!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08

stevepotter - AltLd - 23/Mar/08 with ken

Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08 with Ed Booth

Mr Powly - AltLd - 19/Mar/08 with Pete Graham

Pete Graham - AltLd - 19/Mar/08 with Tom Powel

Captain Solo - AltLd - 14/Mar/08 with Gary

luckyjim - AltLd - Mar/08 with L callaghan

Pete led pitch 1, the icicle was not there on pitch 2, and the original route looked a bit scary so we abbed off.
tom.e - AltLd dnf - 17/Feb/08 with Pete

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08

smithaldo - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08 with andreas, aussie rob

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/08

Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/08 with Burnsie

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/08

Hidden - 2008

Charlie wp Hill - AltLd - 2008

Rob Pitt - 2008 with Nick Arding

Hidden - AltLd - 04/Apr/07

RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/07 with jonnyb

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Tim

Have waited years to do this route after seeing the pictures in cold climbs......fantastic classic.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Steve Grove

Spade - AltLd - 22/Mar/07 with Tom Pearson

andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/07 with neil adams

Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/07 with Andy Inglis

gregor - Mar/07

An amazing climb and in superb condition, a true classic (Included the icicle variation direct)
JDSwain - 19/Feb/07 with Andy Nisbet

centurion05 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/07 with dave g

Led the Crux Pitch. Fantastic Ice!
Daigroom - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/07 with Stevie Price

Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/07 with rich howels

decs - AltLd - 07/Feb/07 with Mike and Gaz

They got the good pitches. I had the last. Arse.
gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/07 with Dunc and Mike

original steep middle pitch, steep!
scott gibson - 2nd - 04/Feb/07 with steve lynch

gripped01 - AltLd - Feb/07 with Ru Capleton

Wet in the cave - awesome on the icicle variation
BenTiffin - AltLd - Feb/07 with Bob Currie

centurion05 - 2007

timmy-ts - 2007

mux - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Simon Frost

Hidden - 2007

Hidden - Lead - 2007

barney_edin - 2nd - 19/Apr/06 with Joanna

jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - Apr/06 with Miguel Ciriza

DaleB - Feb/06 with IP

bandersnatch - Lead - Mar/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/05

Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/05

peter neden - AltLd - Feb/05

Gudge - AltLd O/S - Apr/02 with Gareth Hughes

Hidden - Mar/02

Chad123 - AltLd - Feb/02 with Georgie

nickdonohue - AltLd - Feb/02 with Mark McCarthy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002

frost - AltLd - Mar/01 with D Garry

Hidden - 2nd - Jan/01

NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 15/Apr/00 with James Hubbard

seanyt - AltLd - Feb/00

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2000

graeme gatherer - 2000

John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Jan/99 with Tim Blakemore

AB1965 - AltLd - 10/Jan/98

Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 22/Apr/97 with Tony Brindle

Icicle as fat as you could ever want.
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/97 with Matthew Stammers

Stoked...big night out, hazy drive, sobering walk-in and awesome climb
markharro - AltLd - 23/Mar/97 with Swot

Hidden - Lead - 12/Mar/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/97

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Feb/96 with AShipp

AB1965 - AltLd - 10/Jan/96

AB1965 - AltLd - 10/Jan/96

switch - Lead - Jan/96

Original route. Hard frozen water ice conditions with 3-5 strikes per placement.
Grezza - Lead O/S - Feb/95 with Mick RIP, Andy Kemp

Hidden - AltLd - 23/Mar/92

Hidden - Solo - 21/Mar/92

Had to climb round a bloke who had just fallen off the top of the first pitch, but apart from that an excellent route.
GaryK - Solo - Feb/88

scree - Feb/87 with Dave H

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jan/87

Again
Lone Rider - Solo - Feb/85

Squeaky ice and in 20 mins.
Lone Rider - Solo - 02/Jan/85

After crux had to ab back down to rescue someone else who was getting stangled by a snagged tape round his neck after his partner came off below when doing the lefthand variation.
Lone Rider - Lead - 21/Feb/81

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Voting
Total votes cast 102
hard VI0 of 36
VI0 of 36
easy VI0 of 36
hard V6 of 36
V29 of 36
easy V1 of 36
hard IV0 of 36
IV0 of 36
easy IV0 of 36
hard 60 of 33
60 of 33
easy 60 of 33
hard 52 of 33
531 of 33
easy 50 of 33
hard 40 of 33
40 of 33
easy 40 of 33
3 Stars32 of 33
2 Stars1 of 33
1 Star0 of 33
0 Stars0 of 33
Bag of .....0 of 33
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 171 (2.9%)
Lead19 of 171 (11.1%)
Followed21 of 171 (12.3%)
Alt Leads98 of 171 (57.3%)
Unknown28 of 171 (16.4%)

'Climbed'99 of 171 (57.9%)
clean O/S63 of 171 (36.8%)
clean rpt1 of 171 (0.6%)
dogged4 of 171 (2.3%)
dnf4 of 171 (2.3%)