Pumped miserably and had to rest on P2. Had an epic trying (and failing) to get through the cornice, ripping a couple of screws falling off trying to get through it. Downclimbed and abbed off once we found the way down.
Conditions are good on P1 and P2. Icicle not fully formed. Do not go to the top, no real anchor near the cornice and it's too big to get through. One 60m abseil from the tat on the right near the bottom of the easy ground atop P2 will get you to safety.RKernan - AltLd dog - 16/Mar/13 with Stuart Abraham
stuart90 - AltLd - 16/Mar/13 with ronan kernan
Led P1. Kirill led crux P2. I then led to the top, split into two since I didn't have enough rope to get over the cornice. Excellent route!
Ant Man Bee - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/13 with Kirill Spiridonov
Slogged all the way to Gardyloo Buttress in an attempt to reach the freezing level. Ice a bit crumbly, had really hard time keeping my feet on. Clipped the axe for a sneaky rest. Arrived at the belay completely destroyed. Tremendous route!
Kirill - AltLd dog - 03/Mar/13 with Paul Bolton
mjsmith1973 - 2nd - 27/Mar/12 with Mike Pescod
Great Route, hanging belay at the cave, got soaked. Hard vertical ice after the hanging belay was 'interesting'. Did the original route and not the icicle route.
Andy Hewison - 2nd O/S - 21/Mar/12 with Mark Chadwick
Enough ice, but melting fast. The icicle is relatively solid. Should still be OK tomorrow.
rufus.duits - Solo - 10/Mar/12
Hidden - 2nd - 10/Mar/12
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 09/Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/12
machars - AltLd - 04/Mar/12 with Bjorn Verduijn
Hidden - 2nd - 04/Mar/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Mar/12
lead p1 and p3 (fnished via the last pitch of kellets route) Jan lead the icicle variation on P2
Tom Campbell - AltLd O/S - 24/Feb/12
joeydurkin - 2nd - 24/Feb/12 with Stu H, Patch
Liam FLeming - 24/Feb/12 with chris thorn
First and third pitch. Return visit after Tuesday's drama (see below). Retrieved gear left and also found some! Great route, need to return to lead the crux second pitch at some point, which is definitely 'out there' as mentioned.
wadh1720 - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/12 with jimmyk
First pitch fine, James off route on second and took fall. Abbed off tatt and sacrificed some gear. Otherwise great route. Will be back.
wadh1720 - 2nd dnf - 14/Feb/12 with Chris L, jimmyk
TeeBee - AltLd - 13/Feb/12
very fat although the column by the cave wasn't formed.
Tom Vivian - 2nd - 12/Feb/12 with chris thorne
mark-abz - 2nd - 12/Feb/12 with Tom V, Chris T
Tim Sparrow - 12/Feb/12 with Ned
Surprisingly good on a day of 'anticyclonic gloom' as predicted by mwis
Heike - 11/Feb/12 with Brian
Via icicle. Warmish day but good conditions
furbrow - AltLd - 11/Feb/12 with Dave A
simonward - AltLd O/S - 03/Feb/12
Hidden - AltLd - Feb/12
olekemi - AltLd - 28/Jan/12 with Florian U
1st and third pitches. Fell off traverse on second.
tsl42 - AltLd dog - 28/Jan/12 with Chris Davis
Hidden - AltLd - 28/Jan/12
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jan/12
mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 26/Jan/12
Hidden - 2nd - 26/Jan/12
Rob Pitt - 25/Jan/12 with Lee Roberts, Jon Ratcliffe
Original route wasn't formed so we took the icicle variation - which felt steep, exposed and scary! Great placements on hard ice all the way though.
guyscott - Lead O/S - 23/Jan/12 with Klas
Edvin m - Lead O/S - 19/Jan/12
Hidden - Lead - 19/Jan/12
great route. easy first time placements almost all the way and great sustained second pitch.
James S - AltLd O/S - 17/Jan/12 with sam
Not in very good style. Not enough decent screws.
MonkeyDawson - AltLd - 15/Jan/12 with Simon Smith
nikkimac - 2nd - Jan/12 with Flash
luckyjim - 2012
Narked4fun - 2012
mark88 - Lead - 03/Apr/11 with Alex Vaughan
Ice a bit soft, but bomber axe placements. Lots of spindrift.
Ian Dunbar - AltLd O/S - 03/Apr/11 with Phil Hall
vaughany - 2nd - 03/Apr/11 with mark patterson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/11
Lead pitches 2 and 4. Did the original variation. http://vimeo.com/24963568
niallk - AltLd O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Willie
tjmillen - AltLd - 26/Mar/11 with ray cassidy, vicky
First belay was a bit drippy (more like a cold shower!) but great route!
allyrocke - Lead O/S - 26/Mar/11 with Phil Jennings
Good solid ice, the route was well picked out. Note only the original was in.
mikeyjbs - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11 with mike moss
mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 06/Mar/11
Ice was good for climbing but not so good for screws.
Really good route.
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with Rob Gray
Started 4pm! Did both pitches together as the belay was dripping, super plastic ice made it very easy today. Steve did a great variation top pitch up the groove left of the normal route - not in guidebook?
Chad123 - AltLd rpt - 05/Mar/11 with Kiwi Steve
rob1 - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/11 with martin haworth
gripped01 - Lead - Mar/11 with Dave Tait
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Feb/11
Seconded with sling harness as I had forgotten mine, doh...
buzby78 - 2nd - 01/Jan/11 with McGeek
Hidden - 2011
adie84 - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Tenko - 2011
Hidden - AltLd - 21/Apr/10
excellent conditions on this sunny Monday on the route - but Bradley got injured by falling ice (was ok the next day)
HansUDes - 2nd dnf - 29/Mar/10 with Spike Sellers, Bradley Morrell
Hidden - 2nd dog - 29/Mar/10
Climbed the original line which was in good nick.
Big Lee - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with Peter Flanagan
The party in front faffed around on 1st pitch for ages (possibly 2 hours or more!). Should've overtaken them. My climbing partner too nice to do just that. Ended up getting back to hut at almost 10pm whereas we got to the bottom of the route at 10am!
Skinny Kin - AltLd O/S - 27/Mar/10 with John Flitcroft
Led the second, crux pitch. Gear was far from ideal, but first time axe placements. Icicle was there, but very thin. Great route!
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 20/Mar/10 with Alex Wheldon
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Mar/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/10
Hidden - Lead - Mar/10
Hidden - 2010
colinthrelfall - 2010
Great day out - perfect weather and conditions. A little bit exciting on the crux as a fairly sustained steep pitch and not sure all the screws were very good! Certainly not late season soft grades at the moment though ice for axes is solid. Icicle is almost there too and Kellet's should be formed soon....Great to do an ice route before Christmas!
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Emily
amazing climb, psyced to get back up to the ben soon. Think i did a little, harder varition. Went up too the left of the iceicle variation then joined the hanging slab.
Ally Baba - AltLd O/S - 12/Dec/09 with Mike G
Love the cave belay!
adamscottthomas - AltLd - 19/Mar/09 with Andy Wardle
Hidden - Lead - 17/Mar/09
Icicle variation. Classic water ice climbing. Great gear and belays
benclimbing - AltLd O/S - 02/Mar/09 with Lorenzo Antolovi
Icicle Variation. V wet day, but route in good condition. I was wet and cold from the walk in so not in the best of moods to appreciate it.
Becky E - 2nd - 26/Feb/09 with Phil Lee & Trevor Wilson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Feb/09
Like Norway with a bugger of a walk in!
mgeek - Lead O/S - 01/Jan/09 with Neill Busby
cragmanuk - 2009 with Ian Lamb, John Elliott,Fergal Corrigan
With Tim Neil as part of work day
davebrox - 2nd - 2009
An early season ascent. Only the original line was there, which was climbing very steep for V,5. Excellent section of 85/90 degrees for 5m, but thin for screws at times.
akhughes - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/08 with Greg B
Greg Boswell - AltLd O/S - 30/Dec/08
dangates - AltLd - May/08 with Kirk Watson
dangates - AltLd - May/08 with Kirk Watson
Richard White - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/08 with Rimon Than
Somerset swede basher - AltLd O/S - 12/Apr/08 with George Taylor
Ian took a 'variation' (kellett's) which was about VI. Belay Cave was quite good fun! On the final steep section my placements were poor, so i was in the process of replacing one, when my OK axe pulled. Down i went. From about 50 metres due to a belay faliure. Absolutely fine, if not a bit shaken!! - Ian Broke his hand and was helped by fellow climbers.
Cheers to all, Dave & Ian
Dave Warburton - 2nd dnf - 09/Apr/08 with IanJackson
great route...icicle variation...cic hut
alan wilson - AltLd - 25/Mar/08 with n smith
ewen - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08 with the kettle
John Kettle - AltLd - 23/Mar/08
Leading through the icicle is amazing - full on!
Ed Booth - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08
stevepotter - AltLd - 23/Mar/08 with ken
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 23/Mar/08 with Ed Booth
Mr Powly - AltLd - 19/Mar/08 with Pete Graham
Pete Graham - AltLd - 19/Mar/08 with Tom Powel
Captain Solo - AltLd - 14/Mar/08 with Gary
luckyjim - AltLd - Mar/08 with L callaghan
Pete led pitch 1, the icicle was not there on pitch 2, and the original route looked a bit scary so we abbed off.
tom.e - AltLd dnf - 17/Feb/08 with Pete
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08
smithaldo - AltLd O/S - 16/Feb/08 with andreas, aussie rob
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/08
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 15/Feb/08 with Burnsie
Hidden - AltLd - 13/Feb/08
Hidden - 2008
Charlie wp Hill - AltLd - 2008
Rob Pitt - 2008 with Nick Arding
Hidden - AltLd - 04/Apr/07
RobScotland - AltLd O/S - 31/Mar/07 with jonnyb
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Tim
Have waited years to do this route after seeing the pictures in cold climbs......fantastic classic.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 25/Mar/07 with Steve Grove
Spade - AltLd - 22/Mar/07 with Tom Pearson
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/07 with neil adams
Neil Adams - AltLd O/S - 05/Mar/07 with Andy Inglis
gregor - Mar/07
An amazing climb and in superb condition, a true classic (Included the icicle variation direct)
JDSwain - 19/Feb/07 with Andy Nisbet
centurion05 - Lead O/S - 17/Feb/07 with dave g
Led the Crux Pitch. Fantastic Ice!
Daigroom - AltLd O/S - 09/Feb/07 with Stevie Price
Nicos - Lead O/S - 09/Feb/07 with rich howels
decs - AltLd - 07/Feb/07 with Mike and Gaz
They got the good pitches. I had the last. Arse.
gaz.marshall - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/07 with Dunc and Mike
original steep middle pitch, steep!
scott gibson - 2nd - 04/Feb/07 with steve lynch
gripped01 - AltLd - Feb/07 with Ru Capleton
Wet in the cave - awesome on the icicle variation
BenTiffin - AltLd - Feb/07 with Bob Currie
centurion05 - 2007
timmy-ts - 2007
mux - AltLd O/S - 2007 with Simon Frost
Hidden - 2007
Hidden - Lead - 2007
barney_edin - 2nd - 19/Apr/06 with Joanna
jamestheyip - AltLd O/S - Apr/06 with Miguel Ciriza
DaleB - Feb/06 with IP
bandersnatch - Lead - Mar/05
Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Feb/05
Hidden - Lead O/S - Feb/05
peter neden - AltLd - Feb/05
Gudge - AltLd O/S - Apr/02 with Gareth Hughes
Hidden - Mar/02
Chad123 - AltLd - Feb/02 with Georgie
nickdonohue - AltLd - Feb/02 with Mark McCarthy
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2002
frost - AltLd - Mar/01 with D Garry
Hidden - 2nd - Jan/01
NeilGriffiths - AltLd - 15/Apr/00 with James Hubbard
seanyt - AltLd - Feb/00
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 2000
graeme gatherer - 2000
John Pickles - AltLd O/S - Jan/99 with Tim Blakemore
AB1965 - AltLd - 10/Jan/98
Jonathan Lagoe - UKC - 22/Apr/97 with Tony Brindle
Icicle as fat as you could ever want.
Jim Walton - AltLd O/S - 30/Mar/97 with Matthew Stammers
Stoked...big night out, hazy drive, sobering walk-in and awesome climb
markharro - AltLd - 23/Mar/97 with Swot
Hidden - Lead - 12/Mar/97
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Mar/97
Hidden - AltLd - 1997
NickJH - AltLd O/S - Feb/96 with AShipp
AB1965 - AltLd - 10/Jan/96
AB1965 - AltLd - 10/Jan/96
switch - Lead - Jan/96
Original route. Hard frozen water ice conditions with 3-5 strikes per placement.
Grezza - Lead O/S - Feb/95 with Mick RIP, Andy Kemp
Hidden - AltLd - 23/Mar/92
Hidden - Solo - 21/Mar/92
Had to climb round a bloke who had just fallen off the top of the first pitch, but apart from that an excellent route.
GaryK - Solo - Feb/88
scree - Feb/87 with Dave H
Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jan/87
Lone Rider - Solo - Feb/85
Squeaky ice and in 20 mins.
Lone Rider - Solo - 02/Jan/85
After crux had to ab back down to rescue someone else who was getting stangled by a snagged tape round his neck after his partner came off below when doing the lefthand variation.
Lone Rider - Lead - 21/Feb/81