|Heaven and Hell||HVS 5a|
|3 pitches. A superb and aptly named route. Some excellent climbing but care is required as the rock is loose in places. Start 25' left of Wreckers Slab below a obvious rising crack-line.|
1) 140' 5a Climb up to the crack line and follow it using to the 'sort of' chimney on jams and chock-stones. Do a few funky moves to get up onto the slab above which is followed into a delightful blend of rock and steep grass to the base of a further large slab above. Dig around with your nut tool - there's a good belay there somewhere!
2) 170' 5a Climb the slab, superb crack climbing crossing a small stream of choss to continue on as the slab steepens and narrows toward the top. The quality of the climbing increases as the quality of the rock becomes more suspect in places toward the top. Continue on and you will reach the promised land of milk, honey and a quite reasonable belay.
3) 140' 4b/c A few moves up and you can step up the overlap on your right to another loose slab which is followed briefly to an easy passage right again onto the final pitch of Wreckers Slab. With the final ridge in sight and solid rock underfoot you can consider yourself 'delivered from evil'.
Ticklists: Culm Coast Dagger Attack.
Photo: heaven and hell. view of my mate fast ed! at 3rd belay. feb 2008 © jedi