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Heaven and Hell* HVS 5a

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<< Jo
 
Jolly Roger >>
[heaven and hell. view of my mate fast ed! at 3rd belay. feb 2008, 2 kb]3 pitches. A superb and aptly named route. Some excellent climbing but care is required as the rock is loose in places. Start 25' left of Wreckers Slab below a obvious rising crack-line. 1) 140' 5a Climb up to the crack line and follow it using to the 'sort of' chimney on jams and chock-stones. Do a few funky moves to get up onto the slab above which is followed into a delightful blend of rock and steep grass to the base of a further large slab above. Dig around with your nut tool - there's a good belay there somewhere! 2) 170' 5a Climb the slab, superb crack climbing crossing a small stream of choss to continue on as the slab steepens and narrows toward the top. The quality of the climbing increases as the quality of the rock becomes more suspect in places toward the top. Continue on and you will reach the promised land of milk, honey and a quite reasonable belay. 3) 140' 4b/c A few moves up and you can step up the overlap on your right to another loose slab which is followed briefly to an easy passage right again onto the final pitch of Wreckers Slab. With the final ridge in sight and solid rock underfoot you can consider yourself 'delivered from evil'.

Ticklists: Culm Coast Dagger Attack.

Photo: heaven and hell. view of my mate fast ed! at 3rd belay. feb 2008 © jedi
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

It wasn't any worse than expected - a good day out!
mike.moss - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Roly Chuter

Should be called Gardening Leave; liberal use of the nut tool was required to find protection on P2. It's there though, and the rock isn't too loose..... great climb.
Rollo - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Mike

Hell, hell then more hell is a more aptly named title. With a description of 5a climbing with a high risk of death. Once you get over that, the route's not too bad.
The Green Giant - Lead O/S - 27/May/11 with Fiila

vertically_challenged - Lead O/S - 06/Jul/10

Quite an adventure in the wet. It's probably best to split the second pitch.
Mark Kemball - AltLd - 12/Jan/08 with Stu Bradbury

Superb route - highly underrated - get on it!
Justin T - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/07 with Wifey

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/07

Disappointing. Fresh rock scar and loose earth for the middle 100ft.
alan moore - 2003

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Dave 88, pielander, minexplorer, Dr Caterpillar, culmclimberRob, Hidden

Voting
Total votes cast 9
hard E10 of 3
E10 of 3
easy E10 of 3
hard HVS2 of 3
HVS1 of 3
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VS0 of 3
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hard 5b0 of 3
5b0 of 3
easy 5b0 of 3
hard 5a0 of 3
5a3 of 3
easy 5a0 of 3
hard 4c0 of 3
4c0 of 3
easy 4c0 of 3
3 Stars0 of 3
2 Stars0 of 3
1 Star2 of 3
0 Stars1 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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