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Eroica*** E4 6a

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[On the first pitch of Eroica, 2 kb]One of the UK's most illustrious sea-cliff challenges, following a spectacular line of flake-cracks up the lower portion of the Great Wall and finishing up the narrow central corner. The second pitch was for many years climbed with a peg for aid at 5b but this has now gone. Start below a small corner at the base of the left side of the wall. Photo on page 173.. 1) 5a, 30m. Move steeply up the corner, which eases as it trends left to a triangular niche. Move right and take cracks to a rest below double overhangs. Undercut wildly left between the overhangs and continue up the wide crack to a stance at its top.. 2) 6a, 12m. Climb the corner/groove above to its end before traversing rightwards to a stance at the base of a corner.. 3) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner, which is technical and sustained in its lower half to an obvious exit on the right at its end. © ROCKFAX
There is no longer a peg at the crux, in spite of various trolls on UKC forums,this has not been replaced by a bolt, the consensus seems to be that Pentire should remain bolt free. Adequate protection can be arranged to protect the crux many people think it is safer to run the first two pitches together.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist.

Photo: On the first pitch of Eroica © Mark Glaister - Assistant Editor
View all 11 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 119 logbooks, and on 31 wishlists.

Felt very bold leaving the belay on the crux pitch, didn't enjoy committing at all!
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/14

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14

lead p2. Jimmy decided to belay a bit higher on p1, meaning a fall from the crux would be straight onto the belay. It didn't feel like soft E4 for me. scary
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 28/May/14 with james marjot

Just the first pitch. The moves through the overhangs are some of the best moves iv climbed! Left tat and a screwgate at the ab.
Alex the Alex - Lead O/S - 19/May/14

Neil - Lead O/S - 2014

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

mike mo - 2014

Led the first pitch, amazing! Took my time to pass the roof but felt great. Rufus had a few goes at the crux but never committed so we backed off. Must return to complete it
alexjz - AltLd dnf - 19/Aug/13 with Rufus Lusk

Pitch 1 only. Still an excellent pitch.
Joel Perkin - 2nd dnf - 19/Jun/13 with Big Rob

Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/13

Fantastic route on a big intimidating face. Technical climbing through the crux and glad I was on a second for that section. Excellent adventure!
R2B - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Luke

Absolutely incredible, led both pitches, the crux requires a significant amount of commitment. I don't think its a soft E4 at all, technically and mentally hard!
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Colin

Led p 1&2 as one.
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 23/May/13 with Dale

Led 3rd pitch.
Dale Turrell - AltLd O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave

We'll good. Probably 5c. Crux is a bit worrying but nothing too nasty. On international meet.
andi turner - 18/May/13 with pertu from finland

Hidden - AltLd rpt - 18/May/13

The Green Giant - AltLd - 14/May/13 with Tom Bunn

E4 5c? Done in 2 pitches. Just belay below the top of the big flake and then the flake is available for bomber gear. I dont know why this is reputably bold. Adequate protection on the crux, a delicate traverse and a super protected corner crack.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 13/May/13 with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant

mike lawrence? - AltLd - 06/May/13 with FatRob

Russ belayed below the double overhang, and I then led through to the top. Low in the grade but bold.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with RusseyB

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Justin T - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Crispin

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 22/Jul/12

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

soph - AltLd O/S - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11

first pitch only, backed off crux, nasty end
Pippa - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/11 with Jon

datoon - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with K

khawk - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with DT

Second 1st/2nd pitch, lead 3rd pitch.
Fran S8 - 2nd - 29/Apr/11

Marcus - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead - 2011

Steve Crowe - 2011

Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Nov/10

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10

Just to make things a bit different Sam lead to the overhang of the "wild underclings" and then I did a long pitch from there to the top. Awesome climbing with quality moves all the way and definite E4, I had an interesting cluster of RPs around the old pegs but none were very good. Only one 6a move but you wouldn't want to fall off it and lots of delicate 5b above that followed by an excellent layback pitch to finish....super classic the whole way....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10

sgl - AltLd - 12/Aug/10 with chad

feilx - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/10 with Heather

now sans peg. E4 6a.
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Brown - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Ben Lepesant

Rowansb - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Rob gibson

Intimidating and impressive - you know this is going to be an adventure just looking at it! Big sea and drizzle. Led first pitch, scary. Lots of worrying blocks and the traverse...led a few E4 6as but this was way scarier! Belay on detached flake, worrying. Misha did top pitch. No peg for aid or pro. One small wire at belayers head height between crux and belay - and a wire wedged behind peg stub!Very good effort by Misha to get it clean, glad he did!Rest of pitch superb. Took 3 attempts to get over the crux. Awesome awesome route but E4 6a now.
philhilo - AltLd - 04/Jul/10 with misha

Were climbing at Lower Sharpnose on the Saturday so couldn't resist the temptation to have a look at Pentire on the Sunday. The Great Wall looked awesome from the headland so we decided to have a closer look despite the on/off drizzle. The rock was damp in places but not too bad so we figured we could at least do the first pitch and ab off. I thought Phil was going to go for the crux pitch but he wasn't keen. I had no idea if I'd be able to manage it but that's the spirit of adventure. Solid lead from Phil on P1, which proved to be the most worrying second I've done in a long time as the jumble of massive blocks in the middle of the pitch looked like they were about to collapse like dominoes and then the massive hanging flake would follow. The crux looked deceptively easy but proved to be quite tough and took me a few goes to commit due to the absence of decent gear. There are no longer any pegs left on the crux, so it's pretty much obligatory 6a. Managed to get a 0.75 DMM micronut behind a downward pointing peg stub but that would surely have ripped in the event of a fall. Might be possible to aid on it though? The next piece down is a #3 nut which is ok but is more or less level with the belay, so any fall would be approaching F2. Fortunately it's possible to reverse the first few moves of the crux sequence and work it out gradually, but ultimately it still requires commitment. E4 6a? Didn't quite get the left foot as well positioned as it should have been so ended up going for a heart-in-mouth snatch for the good hold. The next few moves up the ramp proved a lot easier once I had stopped panicking and had spotted all the handholds. There was also a #4 BD microstopper which was probably ok and certainly very welcome. The open corner finish involved excellent finger locks and was very enjoyable, probably E2 5b in its own right, or at least it felt that way. An unforgettable experience.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Phil

Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10

dan gibson - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/10 with michael porter

Definitely climb P1 + 2 together, avoids taking a factor two fall onto the belay.
Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Sam Underhill

Ben lead first pitch to after crux groove - probably a better choice than belaying below and having a possible factor 2 onto the belay. Ok belay at base of final corner. Probably E3 done this way.
chris j - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Ben Bradford

Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/09

not sure if this is recent, but there's no pegs on the 2nd pitch until past the crux. It is now obligatory free at 6a, with no gear apart from the top piece of the belay (a small but good wire). If you fell off you'd be straight onto the belay. There's no gear until the peg after you step right, which can be backed up with a very small cam. Probably E4 6a in this state?
Ged Desforges - 21/Jun/09

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 20/Jun/09

Richard White - AltLd rpt - 19/Jul/08 with Rimon Than

free - both pegs in pretty poor condition
Tim M - AltLd - 28/Jun/08 with Emma

climbergg - AltLd - 28/Jun/08 with cheesesarnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/08

Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/07

Marti999 - AltLd - 08/Jun/07 with Rich White

Richard White - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/07

DDDD - AltLd O/S - 2007

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/06 with helen gibson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/06

scary shit, every one else went for ice cream and snatch on the beach while we were on this. couldnt be arsed to do the undercut flake on 1st pitch belayed here, steve led through , met him before crux, he led off i came to second and pulled on the suspension pegs (aid), i was consumed by the irrational fear. incredibly bad effort al.
Alex Mason - Lead - 23/Jul/06 with Steve Ramsden

Free
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Alex Mason

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 30/Jun/06

feilx - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom

Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/06

lead first pitch with the awesome laybacking on the massive flake. one of the most exciting moves ever.
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06 with felix

Hidden - 2nd dnf - 18/Jun/06

Climbed the crux free, using the peg for protection.
jimdanson - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Mike Adams

Backed off top pitch. Gnarly!!
Rich Kirby - AltLd - Jun/06 with Ash

Hidden - AltLd - Apr/06

Bern - 2006

Not sure of date, but in the old days when the peg still existed! Didn't use it for aid / rest tho, but did 'boulder' out crux move a few times before doing.
nickdonohue - AltLd - 2006 with Mike Soldner

Used the peg!
Mark Kemball - Lead - Jun/05 with Stu Bradbury

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005

_m.cox_ - AltLd RP - 2005 with Adam Mulholland

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/04

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/03

I led 6a pitch - no aid point
Billg - AltLd - 17/Jun/00 with Roy Ruddle

Roget - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/00

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/00

Hidden - Lead - 13/May/00

ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with Andy Reid

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/99 with Iain Fisher

phardman - 1997

Led P2 free, first E3?
ellis - AltLd O/S - 1996

so good
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 04/Jul/95 with Emmy McCowen

frost - AltLd - May/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1995

whispering nic - Lead - Aug/94 with Kat

Seconded crux pitch without using peg.
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - Aug/94 with Jim Cheshire

was given E2 - felt stiff at that!
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/93

aid peg had rusted away so we came down after the first pitch
kp64zl - 2nd dnf - Apr/92 with Jason M

I was hooked when I saw the photo of Frank Cannings in SW Climbs. But big fist jam up behind the flake allows minimal laybacking; crux harrowing; traverse right breathtaking and top groove exhausting. Utterly fabulous route with a great name from Gus Morton.
rogerskews - 2nd O/S - 28/May/91 with Bryn Roberts

keefe - 26/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 26/May/91 with keefe

Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Sep/90

Led Crux
shark - AltLd - 12/Sep/89

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 19/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/86

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1986 with Ian Milne

Hidden - AltLd - May/85

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1985

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Marcus - 1980

Mike Owen - 02/Aug/79 with Keith Jones

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/79

year a guess. pulled on manky first peg. had that 'Mountain' mag with us for a topo.
ian caton - Lead dog - 1977 with steve scott

Found the second pitch plastered with chalk but managed to climb it free. Pete Livesey turns out to have made the first free ascent the previous week so this was probably the second.
petemeads - Lead O/S - Aug/76 with John Allen

Hidden - AltLd - 1975

Hidden - 1973

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Voting
Total votes cast 56
hard E50 of 12
E50 of 12
easy E50 of 12
hard E41 of 12
E48 of 12
easy E41 of 12
hard E32 of 12
E30 of 12
easy E30 of 12
hard 6b0 of 22
6b0 of 22
easy 6b0 of 22
hard 6a2 of 22
6a15 of 22
easy 6a4 of 22
hard 5c1 of 22
5c0 of 22
easy 5c0 of 22
3 Stars20 of 22
2 Stars1 of 22
1 Star0 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....1 of 22
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Style of ascent

Lead36 of 119 (30.3%)
Followed8 of 119 (6.7%)
Alt Leads56 of 119 (47.1%)
Unknown19 of 119 (16.0%)

'Climbed'46 of 119 (38.7%)
clean O/S55 of 119 (46.2%)
clean rpt5 of 119 (4.2%)
clean RP2 of 119 (1.7%)
dogged2 of 119 (1.7%)
dnf9 of 119 (7.6%)