Rockfax Description
One of the UK's most illustrious sea-cliff challenges, following a spectacular line of flake-cracks up the lower portion of the Great Wall and finishing up the narrow central corner. The second pitch was for many years climbed with a peg for aid at 5b but this has now gone. Start below a small corner at the base of the left side of the wall.
1) 5a, 30m. Move steeply up the corner, which eases as it trends left to a triangular niche. Move right and take cracks to a rest below double overhangs. Undercut wildly left between the overhangs and continue up the wide crack to a stance at its top.
2) 6a, 12m. Climb the corner/groove above to its end before traversing rightwards to a stance at the base of a corner.
3) 5b, 20m. Climb the corner, which is technical and sustained in its lower half to an obvious exit on the right at its end. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
There is no longer a peg at the crux, in spite of various trolls on UKC forums,this has not been replaced by a bolt, the consensus seems to be that Pentire should remain bolt free. Adequate protection can be arranged to protect the crux many people think it is safer to run the first two pitches together.

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, West Country Climbs, The BMC 70th Anniversary Ticklist, Alex's Cornwall and Devon ticklist, Fast & Free: Pete Livesay's Top 30 British Classics, Ultimate E4 ticklist.

LRob ?/Sep AltLd O/S
redjerry 28/Aug Lead O/S
with Robert Duran
mattnuttall 18/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead p1

datoon 18/Aug AltLd O/S
Ed Babs 02/Aug AltLd O/S

P2. Solid lead from Alex on P1.

with AlexD
AlexD 02/Aug AltLd O/S

Led 1&2 together. Started celebrating a little too soon after making the crux as there were still some very precarious feeling moves to make up to the corner with the gear even further below now!

with Ed
papashango 19/Jul 2nd O/S

seconded the whole of the first pitch up to the darkinbad belay. a gift at e4, one 6a move and easy climbing apart from that. led darkinbad P1, one fall, incredible route, just couldn't quite keep it together after the crux. followed P2 which was very strenuous. fantastic day.

with PJ
jfane 09/Jul Lead O/S
Hidden 21/Jun 2nd dog
ferdia 19/Apr AltLd O/S
with Hertha, Burton
burto 19/Apr AltLd O/S
with ferdia, hertha
quiffhanger 12/Apr Lead O/S

1st pitch all the way to the belay shared with Darkinbad - bit of drag as ropes ended up behind the flakes but not terminal. Quite the adventure on a wild day. Tough and weird crux that, although safe in retrospect, felt pretty bold & spooky. Def E4 6a despite mostly VS climbing!

with Rachel
adi bryant 09/Apr Lead dnf

Got spooked on the second pitch and didn't commit to the move until I was too pumped. . Still really chuffed about climbing at this place though.

with Tim
Bristoldave 13/Mar AltLd rpt

Led p3 this time

with Jack
Jackislav 13/Mar Lead O/S

Led 1&2 together then lead crux pitch. Absolutely fantastic climbing on stunning rock! Bold moves on the crux but seemed pretty safe chuffed with the onsight :)

Hidden ??/2015 -
Hidden ??/2015 -
Joughton 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Felt very bold leaving the belay on the crux pitch, didn't enjoy committing at all!

Hidden ?/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
bigie bob 03/Jul/14 Lead O/S
markalmack 28/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead p2. Jimmy decided to belay a bit higher on p1, meaning a fall from the crux would be straight onto the belay. It didn't feel like soft E4 for me. scary

with james marjot
Alex the Alex 19/May/14 Lead dnf

Just the first pitch. The moves through the overhangs are some of the best moves iv climbed! Left tat and a screwgate at the ab.

Neil ??/2014 Lead O/S
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
mike mo ??/2014 -
alexjz 19/Aug/13 AltLd dnf

Led the first pitch, amazing! Took my time to pass the roof but felt great. Rufus had a few goes at the crux but never committed so we backed off. Must return to complete it

with Rufus Lusk
Joel Perkin 19/Jun/13 2nd dnf

Pitch 1 only. Still an excellent pitch.

with Big Rob
Hidden 19/Jun/13 Lead
R2B 02/Jun/13 AltLd O/S

Fantastic route on a big intimidating face. Technical climbing through the crux and glad I was on a second for that section. Excellent adventure!

with Luke
Ed morris 25/May/13 Lead O/S

Absolutely incredible, led both pitches, the crux requires a significant amount of commitment. I don't think its a soft E4 at all, technically and mentally hard!

with Colin
Bristoldave 23/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led p 1&2 as one.

with Dale
Dale Turrell 23/May/13 AltLd O/S

Led 3rd pitch.

with Dave
andi turner 18/May/13 -

We'll good. Probably 5c. Crux is a bit worrying but nothing too nasty. On international meet.

with pertu from finland
Dave Turnbull, BMC 18/May/13 AltLd rpt

Led top pitch.

with Jon Redmond
The Green Giant 14/May/13 AltLd
El3ctroFuzz 13/May/13 AltLd O/S

E4 5c? Done in 2 pitches. Just belay below the top of the big flake and then the flake is available for bomber gear. I dont know why this is reputably bold. Adequate protection on the crux, a delicate traverse and a super protected corner crack.

with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
mike lawrence? 06/May/13 AltLd
with FatRob
kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Russ belayed below the double overhang, and I then led through to the top. Low in the grade but bold.

with RusseyB
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
Justin T 28/Jul/12 Lead O/S
with Crispin
Hidden 22/Jul/12 AltLd dnf
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
soph ?/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
with Helena Robinson
Hidden 26/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Pippa 03/Jul/11 Lead dnf

first pitch only, backed off crux, nasty end

with Jon
datoon 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
with K
khawk 31/May/11 AltLd O/S
with DT
Fran S8 29/Apr/11 2nd

Second 1st/2nd pitch, lead 3rd pitch.

Marcus ??/2011 -
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 Lead
Steve Crowe ??/2011 AltLd O/S

climb P1 + P2 i one run out to avoid the risk of a factor two fall onto the belay.

with KM
Hidden 13/Nov/10 Lead RP
pezzerrr 13/Aug/10 AltLd O/S
Chad123 12/Aug/10 AltLd O/S

Just to make things a bit different Sam lead to the overhang of the "wild underclings" and then I did a long pitch from there to the top. Awesome climbing with quality moves all the way and definite E4, I had an interesting cluster of RPs around the old pegs but none were very good. Only one 6a move but you wouldn't want to fall off it and lots of delicate 5b above that followed by an excellent layback pitch to finish....super classic the whole way....

sgl 12/Aug/10 AltLd
with chad
feilx 07/Aug/10 Lead rpt
with Heather
Toby Dunn 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S

now sans peg. E4 6a.

with Andy Reeve
Brown 18/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Ben Lepesant
Rowansb 17/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Rob gibson
philhilo 04/Jul/10 AltLd

Intimidating and impressive - you know this is going to be an adventure just looking at it! Big sea and drizzle. Led first pitch, scary. Lots of worrying blocks and the traverse...led a few E4 6as but this was way scarier! Belay on detached flake, worrying. Misha did top pitch. No peg for aid or pro. One small wire at belayers head height between crux and belay - and a wire wedged behind peg stub!Very good effort by Misha to get it clean, glad he did!Rest of pitch superb. Took 3 attempts to get over the crux. Awesome awesome route but E4 6a now.

with misha
Misha 04/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Were climbing at Lower Sharpnose on the Saturday so couldn't resist the temptation to have a look at Pentire on the Sunday. The Great Wall looked awesome from the headland so we decided to have a closer look despite the on/off drizzle. The rock was damp in places but not too bad so we figured we could at least do the first pitch and ab off. I thought Phil was going to go for the crux pitch but he wasn't keen. I had no idea if I'd be able to manage it but that's the spirit of adventure. Solid lead from Phil on P1, which proved to be the most worrying second I've done in a long time as the jumble of massive blocks in the middle of the pitch looked like they were about to collapse like dominoes and then the massive hanging flake would follow. The crux looked deceptively easy but proved to be quite tough and took me a few goes to commit due to the absence of decent gear. There are no longer any pegs left on the crux, so it's pretty much obligatory 6a. Managed to get a 0.75 DMM micronut behind a downward pointing peg stub but that would surely have ripped in the event of a fall. Might be possible to aid on it though? The next piece down is a #3 nut which is ok but is more or less level with the belay, so any fall would be approaching F2. Fortunately it's possible to reverse the first few moves of the crux sequence and work it out gradually, but ultimately it still requires commitment. E4 6a? Didn't quite get the left foot as well positioned as it should have been so ended up going for a heart-in-mouth snatch for the good hold. The next few moves up the ramp proved a lot easier once I had stopped panicking and had spotted all the handholds. There was also a #4 BD microstopper which was probably ok and certainly very welcome. The open corner finish involved excellent finger locks and was very enjoyable, probably E2 5b in its own right, or at least it felt that way. An unforgettable experience.

with Phil
Hidden ?/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 10/Apr/10 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 10/Apr/10 Lead rpt
with michael porter
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2010 AltLd O/S

Definitely climb P1 + 2 together, avoids taking a factor two fall onto the belay.

with Sam Underhill
chris j 18/Sep/09 AltLd O/S

Ben lead first pitch to after crux groove - probably a better choice than belaying below and having a possible factor 2 onto the belay. Ok belay at base of final corner. Probably E3 done this way.

with Ben Bradford
Hidden 24/Jun/09 Lead rpt
Ged Desforges 21/Jun/09 -

not sure if this is recent, but there's no pegs on the 2nd pitch until past the crux. It is now obligatory free at 6a, with no gear apart from the top piece of the belay (a small but good wire). If you fell off you'd be straight onto the belay. There's no gear until the peg after you step right, which can be backed up with a very small cam. Probably E4 6a in this state?

Hidden 20/Jun/09 AltLd dnf
Hidden 19/Jul/08 AltLd rpt
Tim M 28/Jun/08 AltLd

free - both pegs in pretty poor condition

with Emma
climbergg 28/Jun/08 AltLd
Hidden 06/May/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden 04/Aug/07 2nd
Marti999 08/Jun/07 AltLd
Hidden 08/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
DDDD ??/2007 AltLd O/S
dan gibson 26/Aug/06 Lead O/S
with helen gibson
Hidden 23/Jul/06 AltLd O/S
Alex Mason 23/Jul/06 Lead

scary shit, every one else went for ice cream and snatch on the beach while we were on this. couldnt be arsed to do the undercut flake on 1st pitch belayed here, steve led through , met him before crux, he led off i came to second and pulled on the suspension pegs (aid), i was consumed by the irrational fear. incredibly bad effort al.

Ram MkiV 23/Jul/06 Lead O/S


with Alex Mason
Hidden 30/Jun/06 AltLd dnf
feilx 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S
with Crazy Tom
Hidden 18/Jun/06 Lead dnf
beanfingers 18/Jun/06 Lead O/S

lead first pitch with the awesome laybacking on the massive flake. one of the most exciting moves ever.

with felix
Hidden 18/Jun/06 2nd dnf
jimdanson 03/Jun/06 2nd O/S

Climbed the crux free, using the peg for protection.

with Mike Adams
Rich Kirby ?/Jun/06 AltLd

Backed off top pitch. Gnarly!!

with Ash
Hidden ?/Apr/06 AltLd
Bern ??/2006 -
nickdonohue ??/2006 AltLd

Not sure of date, but in the old days when the peg still existed! Didn't use it for aid / rest tho, but did 'boulder' out crux move a few times before doing.

with Mike Soldner
Mark Kemball ?/Jun/05 Lead

Used the peg!

with Stu Bradbury
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 -
tuftynick ??/2005 Lead O/S
_m.cox_ ??/2005 AltLd RP
with Adam Mulholland
Hidden ?/Oct/04 AltLd O/S
Samuel P 13/Jul/03 2nd
with Luke
Simon cook ?/Sep/02 Lead O/S

With Clatke Alston

Billg 17/Jun/00 AltLd

I led 6a pitch - no aid point

with Roy Ruddle
Roget 07/Jun/00 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden 13/May/00 Lead
ecowaller ??/2000 Lead O/S
with Andy Reid
goi.ashmore 12/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with Iain Fisher
phardman ??/1997 -
Gregory ??/1997 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/96 AltLd dog
ellis ??/1996 AltLd O/S

Led P2 free, first E3?

Dave Musgrove Jnr 04/Jul/95 Lead

so good

with Emmy McCowen
frost ?/May/95 AltLd
Hidden ??/1995 AltLd O/S
whispering nic ?/Aug/94 Lead
with Kat
Derek Ryden ?/Aug/94 AltLd O/S

Seconded crux pitch without using peg.

with Jim Cheshire
mattnuttall 20/Jul/94 Lead O/S

was given E2 - felt stiff at that!

with Alan Holden
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/93 AltLd

Did E2 version with the old peg.

with Phil Baker
Hidden 31/Jul/93 AltLd O/S
kp64zl ?/Apr/92 2nd dnf

aid peg had rusted away so we came down after the first pitch

with Jason M
rogerskews 28/May/91 2nd O/S

I was hooked when I saw the photo of Frank Cannings in SW Climbs. But big fist jam up behind the flake allows minimal laybacking; crux harrowing; traverse right breathtaking and top groove exhausting. Utterly fabulous route with a great name from Gus Morton.

with Bryn Roberts
keefe 26/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 26/May/91 -
with keefe
Hidden 03/Sep/90 Lead dog
shark 12/Sep/89 AltLd

Led Crux

Bruce Kerr 19/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
William Robertson ??/1987 Lead O/S
with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden 23/Jul/86 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1986 AltLd O/S
with Ian Milne
Hidden ?/May/85 AltLd
Hidden ??/1985 AltLd O/S
barny ??/1982 Lead O/S

Charles made a start then declined at the wide crack. Nice move at the flake to avoid barn door :-) Led the crux clean :-) :-) What a superb route.

with Charles
Chris Terrey 31/May/81 AltLd
with Simon Fenwick
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Marcus ??/1980 -
Mike Owen 02/Aug/79 Lead O/S
with Keith Jones
Hidden ?/Aug/79 AltLd O/S
ian caton ??/1977 Lead dog

year a guess. pulled on manky first peg. had that 'Mountain' mag with us for a topo.

with steve scott
petemeads ?/Aug/76 Lead O/S

Found the second pitch plastered with chalk but managed to climb it free. Pete Livesey turns out to have made the first free ascent the previous week so this was probably the second.

with John Allen
Hidden ??/1975 AltLd
Hidden ??/1973 -
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High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
High E3
Mid E3
Low E3
Votes cast 14
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 25
Votes cast 24
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Not Set