seconded the whole of the first pitch up to the darkinbad belay. a gift at e4, one 6a move and easy climbing apart from that.
led darkinbad P1, one fall, incredible route, just couldn't quite keep it together after the crux.
followed P2 which was very strenuous. fantastic day.
papashango - 2nd O/S - 19/Jul/15 with PJ
jfane - Lead O/S - 09/Jul/15
Hidden - 2nd dog - 21/Jun/15
ferdia - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/15 with Hertha, Burton
burto - AltLd O/S - 19/Apr/15 with ferdia, hertha
1st pitch all the way to the belay shared with Darkinbad - bit of drag as ropes ended up behind the flakes but not terminal. Quite the adventure on a wild day. Tough and weird crux that, although safe in retrospect, felt pretty bold & spooky. Def E4 6a despite mostly VS climbing!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/15 with Rachel
Got spooked on the second pitch and didn't commit to the move until I was too pumped. . Still really chuffed about climbing at this place though.
adi bryant - Lead dnf - 09/Apr/15 with Tim
Led p3 this time
Bristoldave - AltLd rpt - 13/Mar/15 with Jack
Led 1&2 together then lead crux pitch. Absolutely fantastic climbing on stunning rock! Bold moves on the crux but seemed pretty safe chuffed with the onsight :)
Jackislav - Lead O/S - 13/Mar/15
Hidden - 2015
Hidden - 2015
Felt very bold leaving the belay on the crux pitch, didn't enjoy committing at all!
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/14
bigie bob - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/14
lead p2. Jimmy decided to belay a bit higher on p1, meaning a fall from the crux would be straight onto the belay. It didn't feel like soft E4 for me. scary
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 28/May/14 with james marjot
Just the first pitch. The moves through the overhangs are some of the best moves iv climbed! Left tat and a screwgate at the ab.
Alex the Alex - Lead dnf - 19/May/14
Neil - Lead O/S - 2014
Dan-Cheetham - 2014
mike mo - 2014
Led the first pitch, amazing! Took my time to pass the roof but felt great. Rufus had a few goes at the crux but never committed so we backed off. Must return to complete it
alexjz - AltLd dnf - 19/Aug/13 with Rufus Lusk
Pitch 1 only. Still an excellent pitch.
Joel Perkin - 2nd dnf - 19/Jun/13 with Big Rob
Hidden - Lead - 19/Jun/13
Fantastic route on a big intimidating face. Technical climbing through the crux and glad I was on a second for that section. Excellent adventure!
R2B - AltLd O/S - 02/Jun/13 with Luke
Absolutely incredible, led both pitches, the crux requires a significant amount of commitment. I don't think its a soft E4 at all, technically and mentally hard!
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 25/May/13 with Colin
Led p 1&2 as one.
Bristoldave - AltLd O/S - 23/May/13 with Dale
Led 3rd pitch.
Dale Turrell - AltLd O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave
We'll good. Probably 5c. Crux is a bit worrying but nothing too nasty. On international meet.
andi turner - 18/May/13 with pertu from finland
Led top pitch.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd rpt - 18/May/13 with Jon Redmond
The Green Giant - AltLd - 14/May/13 with Tom Bunn
E4 5c? Done in 2 pitches. Just belay below the top of the big flake and then the flake is available for bomber gear. I dont know why this is reputably bold. Adequate protection on the crux, a delicate traverse and a super protected corner crack.
El3ctroFuzz - AltLd O/S - 13/May/13 with Alex Orrrrrrr - Green giant
mike lawrence? - AltLd - 06/May/13 with FatRob
Russ belayed below the double overhang, and I then led through to the top. Low in the grade but bold.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with RusseyB
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013
Justin T - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/12 with Crispin
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 22/Jul/12
Stone Idle - 2012
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
soph - AltLd O/S - Sep/11 with Helena Robinson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/11
first pitch only, backed off crux, nasty end
Pippa - Lead dnf - 03/Jul/11 with Jon
datoon - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with K
khawk - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with DT
Second 1st/2nd pitch, lead 3rd pitch.
Fran S8 - 2nd - 29/Apr/11
Marcus - 2011
GeoffG - 2011
Hidden - Lead - 2011
climb P1 + P2 i one run out to avoid the risk of a factor two fall onto the belay.
Steve Crowe - AltLd O/S - 2011 with KM
Hidden - Lead RP - 13/Nov/10
pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/10
Just to make things a bit different Sam lead to the overhang of the "wild underclings" and then I did a long pitch from there to the top. Awesome climbing with quality moves all the way and definite E4, I had an interesting cluster of RPs around the old pegs but none were very good. Only one 6a move but you wouldn't want to fall off it and lots of delicate 5b above that followed by an excellent layback pitch to finish....super classic the whole way....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/10
sgl - AltLd - 12/Aug/10 with chad
feilx - Lead rpt - 07/Aug/10 with Heather
now sans peg. E4 6a.
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve
Brown - AltLd O/S - 18/Jul/10 with Ben Lepesant
Rowansb - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Rob gibson
Intimidating and impressive - you know this is going to be an adventure just looking at it! Big sea and drizzle. Led first pitch, scary. Lots of worrying blocks and the traverse...led a few E4 6as but this was way scarier! Belay on detached flake, worrying. Misha did top pitch. No peg for aid or pro. One small wire at belayers head height between crux and belay - and a wire wedged behind peg stub!Very good effort by Misha to get it clean, glad he did!Rest of pitch superb. Took 3 attempts to get over the crux. Awesome awesome route but E4 6a now.
philhilo - AltLd - 04/Jul/10 with misha
Were climbing at Lower Sharpnose on the Saturday so couldn't resist the temptation to have a look at Pentire on the Sunday. The Great Wall looked awesome from the headland so we decided to have a closer look despite the on/off drizzle. The rock was damp in places but not too bad so we figured we could at least do the first pitch and ab off. I thought Phil was going to go for the crux pitch but he wasn't keen. I had no idea if I'd be able to manage it but that's the spirit of adventure. Solid lead from Phil on P1, which proved to be the most worrying second I've done in a long time as the jumble of massive blocks in the middle of the pitch looked like they were about to collapse like dominoes and then the massive hanging flake would follow. The crux looked deceptively easy but proved to be quite tough and took me a few goes to commit due to the absence of decent gear. There are no longer any pegs left on the crux, so it's pretty much obligatory 6a. Managed to get a 0.75 DMM micronut behind a downward pointing peg stub but that would surely have ripped in the event of a fall. Might be possible to aid on it though? The next piece down is a #3 nut which is ok but is more or less level with the belay, so any fall would be approaching F2. Fortunately it's possible to reverse the first few moves of the crux sequence and work it out gradually, but ultimately it still requires commitment. E4 6a? Didn't quite get the left foot as well positioned as it should have been so ended up going for a heart-in-mouth snatch for the good hold. The next few moves up the ramp proved a lot easier once I had stopped panicking and had spotted all the handholds. There was also a #4 BD microstopper which was probably ok and certainly very welcome. The open corner finish involved excellent finger locks and was very enjoyable, probably E2 5b in its own right, or at least it felt that way. An unforgettable experience.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/10 with Phil
Hidden - Lead O/S - Jul/10
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Apr/10
dan gibson - Lead rpt - 10/Apr/10 with michael porter
Definitely climb P1 + 2 together, avoids taking a factor two fall onto the belay.
Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd O/S - 2010 with Sam Underhill
Ben lead first pitch to after crux groove - probably a better choice than belaying below and having a possible factor 2 onto the belay. Ok belay at base of final corner. Probably E3 done this way.
chris j - AltLd O/S - 18/Sep/09 with Ben Bradford
Hidden - Lead rpt - 24/Jun/09
not sure if this is recent, but there's no pegs on the 2nd pitch until past the crux. It is now obligatory free at 6a, with no gear apart from the top piece of the belay (a small but good wire). If you fell off you'd be straight onto the belay. There's no gear until the peg after you step right, which can be backed up with a very small cam. Probably E4 6a in this state?
Ged Desforges - 21/Jun/09
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 20/Jun/09
Hidden - AltLd rpt - 19/Jul/08
free - both pegs in pretty poor condition
Tim M - AltLd - 28/Jun/08 with Emma
climbergg - AltLd - 28/Jun/08 with cheesesarnie
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/08
Hidden - 2nd - 04/Aug/07
Marti999 - AltLd - 08/Jun/07 with Rich White
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 08/Jun/07
DDDD - AltLd O/S - 2007
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 26/Aug/06 with helen gibson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/06
scary shit, every one else went for ice cream and snatch on the beach while we were on this. couldnt be arsed to do the undercut flake on 1st pitch belayed here, steve led through , met him before crux, he led off i came to second and pulled on the suspension pegs (aid), i was consumed by the irrational fear. incredibly bad effort al.
Alex Mason - Lead - 23/Jul/06 with Steve Ramsden
Ram MkiV - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/06 with Alex Mason
Hidden - AltLd dnf - 30/Jun/06
feilx - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom
Hidden - Lead dnf - 18/Jun/06
lead first pitch with the awesome laybacking on the massive flake. one of the most exciting moves ever.
beanfingers - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/06 with felix
Hidden - 2nd dnf - 18/Jun/06
Climbed the crux free, using the peg for protection.
jimdanson - 2nd O/S - 03/Jun/06 with Mike Adams
Backed off top pitch. Gnarly!!
Rich Kirby - AltLd - Jun/06 with Ash
Hidden - AltLd - Apr/06
Bern - 2006
Not sure of date, but in the old days when the peg still existed! Didn't use it for aid / rest tho, but did 'boulder' out crux move a few times before doing.
nickdonohue - AltLd - 2006 with Mike Soldner
Used the peg!
Mark Kemball - Lead - Jun/05 with Stu Bradbury
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - 2005
tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2005
_m.cox_ - AltLd RP - 2005 with Adam Mulholland
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Oct/04
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Jul/03
With Clatke Alston
Simon cook - Lead O/S - Sep/02
I led 6a pitch - no aid point
Billg - AltLd - 17/Jun/00 with Roy Ruddle
Roget - Lead O/S - 07/Jun/00
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/00
Hidden - Lead - 13/May/00
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with Andy Reid
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/99 with Iain Fisher
phardman - 1997
Gregory - AltLd - 1997
Hidden - AltLd dog - Aug/96
Led P2 free, first E3?
ellis - AltLd O/S - 1996
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead - 04/Jul/95 with Emmy McCowen
frost - AltLd - May/95
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1995
whispering nic - Lead - Aug/94 with Kat
Seconded crux pitch without using peg.
Derek Ryden - AltLd O/S - Aug/94 with Jim Cheshire
was given E2 - felt stiff at that!
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/94 with Alan Holden
Did E2 version with the old peg.
Alan James - UKC and UKH - AltLd - 07/Aug/93 with Phil Baker
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/93
aid peg had rusted away so we came down after the first pitch
kp64zl - 2nd dnf - Apr/92 with Jason M
I was hooked when I saw the photo of Frank Cannings in SW Climbs. But big fist jam up behind the flake allows minimal laybacking; crux harrowing; traverse right breathtaking and top groove exhausting.
Utterly fabulous route with a great name from Gus Morton.
rogerskews - 2nd O/S - 28/May/91 with Bryn Roberts
keefe - 26/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe
Glenn Sutcliffe - 26/May/91 with keefe
Hidden - Lead dog - 03/Sep/90
shark - AltLd - 12/Sep/89
Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 19/Jul/89 with Keith Turton
William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1987 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc
Hidden - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/86
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 1986 with Ian Milne
Hidden - AltLd - May/85
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1985
Marcus - 1980
Marcus - 1980
Marcus - 1980
Marcus - 1980
Mike Owen - 02/Aug/79 with Keith Jones
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/79
year a guess. pulled on manky first peg. had that 'Mountain' mag with us for a topo.
ian caton - Lead dog - 1977 with steve scott
Found the second pitch plastered with chalk but managed to climb it free. Pete Livesey turns out to have made the first free ascent the previous week so this was probably the second.
petemeads - Lead O/S - Aug/76 with John Allen
Hidden - AltLd - 1975
Hidden - 1973