Black Magic*** E5 6a
[Black Magic at Pentire, 2 kb]

Rockfax Description
A wonderful route tracing a sustained path up the Great Wall on immaculate rock. Take lots of small wires. Start 5m right of Eroica at a short high-angled slab beneath a thin crack-system.

1) 6a, 46m. Step up onto the high-angled slab and move up left to the thin cracks. Climb the thin crack-system to two short left to right-leaning cracks - peg. Move up the wall rightwards past a distinct white quartz patch and enter the very slim left-facing corner above. Follow the corner to a tricky exit onto easier-angled rock. Work up the slabby, lichen splashed wall to a stance beneath a leaning corner.
2) 5c, 20m. Climb the corner and steep flake to an easier exit. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, West Country Climbs, Rob Greenwood's Top 5 E5 Routes in the UK, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

Photo: Black Magic at Pentire © dr evil
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 38 logbooks, and on 13 wishlists.

LRob - AltLd O/S - Sep/15

Lead P2
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/15 with Dave Toon

datoon - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/15 with mattnuttall

Couldn't find the way at the top of the groove. Couldn't even find any holds to get committed on, it just seemed to blank out. Very lichenous. Shame, looked like the angle started to kick back a couple of meters from where I got to. I thought the gear was pretty good unlike some of the other comments on here. Spaced in places, and mainly very small wires, but good. I took a good lob moving into the groove after the traverse right. Way harder than Darkinbad I thought.
Adam Booth - Lead dnf - 02/Aug/15 with Stu Bradbury

lower half was very nice E3. upper half was serious shit your pants territory. felt like i took a couple of years off my life. im still not sure if i enjoyed it. 2 hours on p1
markalmack - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/14 with gwen

The most terrifying belay ever. Thoroughly scared for Luke on the last 10 meters or so of the 1st pitch. Glad a rather large block came bouncing down and not him. Gutted i slipped off just after the traverse, didn't expect it at all. I guess I'll be going back.... hmmm
R2B - 2nd dog - 01/Sep/13 with Luke

Hidden - AltLd - 10/Jul/13

This was the most scared that I've been on a route in quite some time, the top felt very lonely. None of the pegs are there at present and the gear is very spaced and very poor for the last 30 or 40 foot. A fall from the top grove would not have been nice. There was no chalk on the route and lichen on the holds so finding the exact line at the top wasn't completely obvious. However, what a bloody good route! A full 3 stars for this one, I felt that every 1 of the 5 E points was very well earned!
colesy - Lead O/S - 07/Jul/13 with Ged Desforges

Led p1, followed p2. 7a+ on RPs & spaced wires.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead rpt - 18/May/13 with Jon Redmond

A bit harder, a lot scarier, and not quite as good as Darkinbad. Led both pitches. Pulled a huge block off while balancing up the top of P1 miles above my last wobbly runner.
kingholmesy - Lead O/S - 2013 with RusseyB

pezzerrr - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd O/S - 2012 with Alex Haslehurst

led pitch 2. quality. super stylish and sustained p1
Graham Atkins - AltLd - 09/Jul/11

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - 2nd - 03/Jun/11

Led P2, really sustained thin wall climbing on first pitch, a few moves felt reachy but could just be because i follwed mike. Seond pitch is well worth doing at E2 5b. Super steep n huge jugs.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Mikey G

Absolutely amazing! This wall is among the most impressive I have seen, and this route just milks it! From the rightwards traverse onwards is where it becomes (solid) E5, feeling airy and very thin at times!
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/10 with alex mason

Toby Dunn - 2nd - 25/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

first E5 onsight!! had to fight for it though!
Rowansb - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/10 with Rob gibson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/10

Led top (5c) pitch of Last Leviathan.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - AltLd - 11/May/10 with Tadej (Slovenia)

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 2007

andi turner - Lead O/S - 29/May/06 with grimer

GeoffG - Lead O/S - Aug/05

_m.cox_ - 2nd dog - 2005 with Adam Mulholland

Another fantastic climb, oh how I wish I could climb like this always....
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with Andy Reid

goi.ashmore - Lead β - 29/Aug/99 with James Tracey

Hidden - Lead β - 14/Aug/97

shark - Lead O/S - 1997 with Bruce Woodley

Hidden - Lead O/S - 15/Sep/96

Derek Ryden - 2nd O/S - 31/Jul/95 with Ian Parnell, Kath Pyke

Hidden - Lead dnf - Jul/95

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/95

whispering nic - Lead O/S - Aug/94 with Kat

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

frank ramsay - Lead - 19/Apr/92

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/89 with Elaine Owen

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
harry_lewis, quiffhanger, phil64, alexanderjwatts, Quarryboy, Ricky Rocks, feilx

Total votes cast 37
hard E60 of 13
E60 of 13
easy E60 of 13
hard E58 of 13
E54 of 13
easy E51 of 13
hard E40 of 13
E40 of 13
easy E40 of 13
hard 6b0 of 12
6b0 of 12
easy 6b0 of 12
hard 6a1 of 12
6a10 of 12
easy 6a1 of 12
hard 5c0 of 12
5c0 of 12
easy 5c0 of 12
3 Stars12 of 12
2 Stars0 of 12
1 Star0 of 12
0 Stars0 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean repeat