Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax
Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.
|Climber||Date||Style||Notes & Partners|
Lead p1... I did this and black magic 21 years ago... So this was onsight given couldn't remember a thing about it apart from amazing! Touch and go... Am not quite as fit at 40 as I was at 19.
P1 was a tough fight. And chucking rain at us on p2 was a cheap trick born of desperation. But it only steeled our resolve, and we pushed on to emerge victorious. Darkinbad defeated!
|Ed Babs||02/Aug||Lead G/U||
Awesome route and a dream tick. Foot slipped just before the crux, pulled the ropes and clean next go. P1 just keeps on coming - I didn't have much left to give on the final crack leading to the belay. I was steeled for P2 to be more of the same, but fortunately the difficulty does relent. Chuffed.
|Adam Booth||20/Jul||Lead G/U||
Amazing! Pretty steady and mostly very good gear. Took a good lob with an annoying foot slip at the crux.
|Ed Booth||20/Jul||2nd O/S|
|pete johnson||18/Jul||AltLd dog||
Fell off both pitches! Scary start then well protected. Tough. Fantastic.
Glad to finally do this beauty.
OMG.....what a route! Great lead from Misha, falling from 1st section did not bare thinking about. 1st pitch sublime sustained technical 5c/6a, very happy to get this clean. Second pitch total contrast powerful overhang, fell off after wasting energy retrieving stuck nut and sorting out sequence. One of the best routes I have done in nearly 40 years of climbing.
P1 only. Was really close but came off crux. Bit gutting after 2 1/2 hours of effort. It's an amazing route.
cool to get on a route that I'm unlikely to ever be able to climb... really good effort from Dave... v close
|Ed morris||04/Oct/14||Lead O/S||
Led both pitches. P1 was a real slow train with tricky route finding at the end of the traverse, P2 is immaculate and compliments it well. Brilliant climbing and positions. One to remember.
Brilliant climbing which flows perfectly, gear and rests appear just as you really need them - there is a lot of hard climbing.
So glad I managed so summon up the courage for the scary start. Immaculate sustained climbing. First pitch one of the best I've ever done, though I found the second just as hard, if safer. Topped out 5mins before getting drenched by a squall. Raced there straight after doing Il Duce - memorable day!
Seconded P1 clean and P2 in the rain, less clean. Brilliant climbing.
|bigie bob||05/Jul/14||Lead O/S|
|tim newton||24/Jun/14||Lead O/S||
Lead both pitches. Unchalked and straight after 7 hours of driving without a warm up route. Found it pretty tricky in places, especially finding the best holds up after the traverse and then randomly got massive leg shake on the second pitch, thought I was going to fall off that too. Glad to have done it, might have a few years break before I go back for black magic though.
lead p1. What an outstanding route. Probably the best i have ever climbed. unrelenting. just perfect. emotional.
Lead the 2nd pitch. What an amazing route
Anna Duckett, Mike Watson
Sam Williams, Mike Watson
Lead P1. One of the best routes I've done.
Lead P1, finished up Eroica.
|Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing||??/2012||AltLd|
|Dave Turnbull, BMC||14/Aug/11||Lead O/S||
Led both pitches.
lead pitch 2
|Alex Mason||28/Jul/10||AltLd O/S||
Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.
|Mike Goldthorp||28/Jul/10||AltLd O/S||
2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)
|Toby Dunn||25/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
|Ally Baba||12/Jul/10||Lead O/S||
Great technical slab route.
Tony Stone, Mcgeek
Ally lead this route & tony lead black magic. They suggested I combined start of black magic with darkinbad finnish, thus making a more sustained pitch. I was on feet for far too long, I hate slabs and I have the most pathetic sport climbing legs in the world! felt miserable, sh*&tin maself and even wished I wasn't there at one point. Awesome route and well worth 5*'s.
ally swinton, Tony Stone
|John Mcshea||12/Jun/10||Lead O/S|
|Justin T||12/Jun/10||2nd dog||
|dan gibson||10/Apr/10||Lead O/S||
one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk
|Southern Mark Smith||19/Jul/08||Lead O/S||
An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top!
Led second pitch
Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!
felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.
|Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe||??/2005||Lead O/S|
|Davros the Psyched||??/2005||Lead O/S||
|Dave Musgrove Jnr||25/Jul/01||Lead O/S||
Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too
It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed
Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!
|Alan James - UKC and UKH||07/Aug/93||Lead||
|whispering nic||25/May/92||AltLd O/S||
John Jefferies, Chris Calow
Led first pitch
|Mike Owen||25/Jul/85||Lead O/S||