Darkinbad the Brightdayler*** E5 6a
[Darkinbad the Brightdayler, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.
1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.
2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.

Photo: Darkinbad the Brightdayler © Dave Hope
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 85 logbooks, and on 44 wishlists.

Lead p1... I did this and black magic 21 years ago... So this was onsight given couldn't remember a thing about it apart from amazing! Touch and go... Am not quite as fit at 40 as I was at 19.
mattnuttall - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/15 with Dave Toon

datoon - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/15 with mattnuttall

P1 was a tough fight. And chucking rain at us on p2 was a cheap trick born of desperation. But it only steeled our resolve, and we pushed on to emerge victorious. Darkinbad defeated!
AlexD - 2nd β - 02/Aug/15 with Ed

Awesome route and a dream tick. Foot slipped just before the crux, pulled the ropes and clean next go. P1 just keeps on coming - I didn't have much left to give on the final crack leading to the belay. I was steeled for P2 to be more of the same, but fortunately the difficulty does relent. Chuffed.
Ed Babs - Lead G/U - 02/Aug/15 with AlexD

Amazing! Pretty steady and mostly very good gear. Took a good lob with an annoying foot slip at the crux.
Adam Booth - Lead G/U - 20/Jul/15 with Ed Booth

Ed Booth - 2nd O/S - 20/Jul/15 with Adam Booth

Fell off both pitches! Scary start then well protected. Tough. Fantastic.
pete johnson - AltLd dog - 18/Jul/15 with Conor Shepherd

Glad to finally do this beauty.
R2B - AltLd O/S - 04/Jul/15 with Tom N

Misha - Lead O/S - 28/Jun/15 with Phil

OMG.....what a route! Great lead from Misha, falling from 1st section did not bare thinking about. 1st pitch sublime sustained technical 5c/6a, very happy to get this clean. Second pitch total contrast powerful overhang, fell off after wasting energy retrieving stuck nut and sorting out sequence. One of the best routes I have done in nearly 40 years of climbing.
philhilo - 2nd - 28/Jun/15 with misha

P1 only. Was really close but came off crux. Bit gutting after 2 1/2 hours of effort. It's an amazing route.
Bristoldave - Lead dog - 21/Mar/15 with Derwood

cool to get on a route that I'm unlikely to ever be able to climb... really good effort from Dave... v close
dbrooks - 2nd dog - 21/Mar/15 with Dr Dave

Led both pitches. P1 was a real slow train with tricky route finding at the end of the traverse, P2 is immaculate and compliments it well. Brilliant climbing and positions. One to remember.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 04/Oct/14 with Colin

Brilliant climbing which flows perfectly, gear and rests appear just as you really need them - there is a lot of hard climbing.
Joughton - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14

So glad I managed so summon up the courage for the scary start. Immaculate sustained climbing. First pitch one of the best I've ever done, though I found the second just as hard, if safer. Topped out 5mins before getting drenched by a squall. Raced there straight after doing Il Duce - memorable day!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Peter Hill

Seconded P1 clean and P2 in the rain, less clean. Brilliant climbing.
theotherpetehill - 2nd - 08/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar

malx - Lead O/S - Aug/14

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

Lead both pitches. Unchalked and straight after 7 hours of driving without a warm up route. Found it pretty tricky in places, especially finding the best holds up after the traverse and then randomly got massive leg shake on the second pitch, thought I was going to fall off that too. Glad to have done it, might have a few years break before I go back for black magic though.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with jon stewart

lead p1. What an outstanding route. Probably the best i have ever climbed. unrelenting. just perfect. emotional.
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 28/May/14 with james marjot

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

Lead the 2nd pitch. What an amazing route
climbingsheep - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Anna Duckett, Mike Watson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

alice fuller - 2nd dog - Mar/13

Lead P1. One of the best routes I've done.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/12

Lead P1, finished up Eroica.
pezzerrr - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - AltLd - 2012

Led both pitches.
Dave Turnbull, BMC - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11 with Chris Rees

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Pippa - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Jon

lead pitch 2
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/11

datoon - AltLd - 31/May/11 with K

khawk - AltLd - 31/May/11 with DT

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10

feilx - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/10 with Heather

Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Mikey G

2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with alex mason

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Great technical slab route.
Ally Baba - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Tony Stone, Mcgeek

Ally lead this route & tony lead black magic. They suggested I combined start of black magic with darkinbad finnish, thus making a more sustained pitch. I was on feet for far too long, I hate slabs and I have the most pathetic sport climbing legs in the world! felt miserable, sh*&tin maself and even wished I wasn't there at one point. Awesome route and well worth 5*'s.
mgeek - Lead β - 12/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone

John Mcshea - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Justin Timms

Total epic!
Justin T - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with John Mcshea

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with michael porter

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08

Led second pitch
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 2008 with Dave Ferguson

Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!
feilx - Lead dog - 18/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom

felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.
beanfingers - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/06 with felix

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

4 stars
Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2003 with Tidy

Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/01 with Viv

sadams - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/00 with John Boyle

It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with Wendy Sampson

Tim M - 2nd - 2000

Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/99 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/97 with jon

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/95

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/94

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

Alan James - UKC and UKH - Lead - 07/Aug/93 with Phil Baker

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Jul/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/93

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 25/May/92 with Graham Iles

keefe - 26/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 26/May/91 with keefe

ChrisJD - 2nd - 1991 with LukeS

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 1990 with John Jefferies, Chris Calow

Led first pitch
shark - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/89 with Stu Bolton

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 19/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

frank ramsay - AltLd - Apr/89 with crispin waddy

Johnny Baker - Lead - Jun/88 with Nigel Birtwell

Hidden - AltLd - 1988

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87

charlesmfrench - 2nd - 1986 with Ian Milne

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/85 with Simon King

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
theomoore, Tom McCabe, dominic lee, Ian Jones, WilliamD, RFWilkie, i.fish2000, Liam Ingram, alexjz, Ed Babs, Matt Harle, LJC, Motown, Chad123, iceaxejuggler, Ricky Rocks, rustaldo, centurion05, samrad, ian caton, derekb, Alex Mason, franksnb, chris j, UKC Logbooks, Ropeboy, feilx, John Gillott

Voting
Total votes cast 87
hard E60 of 30
E60 of 30
easy E60 of 30
hard E52 of 30
E523 of 30
easy E55 of 30
hard E40 of 30
E40 of 30
easy E40 of 30
hard 6b0 of 29
6b0 of 29
easy 6b2 of 29
hard 6a6 of 29
6a21 of 29
easy 6a0 of 29
hard 5c0 of 29
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