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Darkinbad the Brightdayler*** E5 6a

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[Darkinbad the Brightdayler. Finishing the final section of the first pitch., 2 kb]Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.. 1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.. 2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Darkinbad the Brightdayler. Finishing the final section of the first pitch. © Mark Glaister collection
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 69 logbooks, and on 35 wishlists.

Joughton - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14

So glad I managed so summon up the courage for the scary start. Immaculate sustained climbing. First pitch one of the best I've ever done, though I found the second just as hard, if safer. Topped out 5mins before getting drenched by a squall. Raced there straight after doing Il Duce - memorable day!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Peter Hill

Seconded P1 clean and P2 in the rain, less clean. Brilliant climbing.
theotherpetehill - 2nd - 08/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar

bigie bob - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14

Lead both pitches. Unchalked and straight after 7 hours of driving without a warm up route. Found it pretty tricky in places, especially finding the best holds up after the traverse and then randomly got massive leg shake on the second pitch, thought I was going to fall off that too. Glad to have done it, might have a few years break before I go back for black magic though.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with jon stewart

lead p1. What an outstanding route. Probably the best i have ever climbed. unrelenting. just perfect. emotional.
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 28/May/14 with james marjot

Dan-Cheetham - 2014

Lead the 2nd pitch. What an amazing route
climbingsheep - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Anna Duckett, Mike Watson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13

alice fuller - 2nd dog - Mar/13 with Woj

Lead P1. One of the best routes I've done.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Jack Metcalfe

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/12

Lead P1, finished up Eroica.
pezzerrr - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/12

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012

Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Pippa - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Jon

lead pitch 2
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/11

datoon - AltLd - 31/May/11 with K

khawk - AltLd - 31/May/11 with DT

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10

feilx - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/10 with Heather

Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Mikey G

2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with alex mason

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Great technical slab route.
Ally Baba - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Tony Stone, Mcgeek

Ally lead this route & tony lead black magic. They suggested I combined start of black magic with darkinbad finnish, thus making a more sustained pitch. I was on feet for far too long, I hate slabs and I have the most pathetic sport climbing legs in the world! felt miserable, sh*&tin maself and even wished I wasn't there at one point. Awesome route and well worth 5*'s.
mgeek - Lead β - 12/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone

John Mcshea - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Justin Timms

Total epic!
Justin T - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with John Mcshea

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with michael porter

An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top!
Richard White - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Rimon Than

Led second pitch
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 2008 with Dave Ferguson

Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!
feilx - Lead dog - 18/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom

felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.
beanfingers - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/06 with felix

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

4 stars
Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2003 with Tidy

Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/01 with Viv

sadams - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/00 with John Boyle

It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with Wendy Sampson

Tim M - 2nd - 2000

Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/99 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/97 with jon

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/95

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/94

mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/94 with Alan Holden

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Jul/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/93

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 25/May/92 with Graham Iles

keefe - 26/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 26/May/91 with keefe

ChrisJD - 2nd - 1991 with LukeS

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 1990 with John Jefferies, Chris Calow

Led first pitch
shark - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/89 with Stu Bolton

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 19/Jul/89 with Keith Turton

frank ramsay - AltLd - Apr/89 with crispin waddy

Johnny Baker - Lead - Jun/88 with Nigel Birtwell

Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87

charlesmfrench - 2nd - 1986 with Ian Milne

Mike Owen - 25/Jul/85 with Simon King

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
i.fish2000, Hidden, Hidden, Liam Ingram, Ed morris, Hidden, alexjz, Ed Babs, Matt Harle, Hidden, LJC, Motown, Bisset, Chad123, iceaxejuggler, Rick hard Rock, Hidden, rustaldo, centurion05, samrad, Hidden, ian caton, derekb, Dr Toph, Alex Mason, franksnb, Hidden, Hidden, chris j, UKC Logbooks, Ropeboy, Hidden, feilx, Hidden, John Gillott

Voting
Total votes cast 65
hard E60 of 22
E60 of 22
easy E60 of 22
hard E52 of 22
E517 of 22
easy E53 of 22
hard E40 of 22
E40 of 22
easy E40 of 22
hard 6b0 of 21
6b0 of 21
easy 6b2 of 21
hard 6a3 of 21
6a16 of 21
easy 6a0 of 21
hard 5c0 of 21
5c0 of 21
easy 5c0 of 21
3 Stars22 of 22
2 Stars0 of 22
1 Star0 of 22
0 Stars0 of 22
Bag of .....0 of 22
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Style of ascent

Lead31 of 69 (44.9%)
Followed12 of 69 (17.4%)
Alt Leads19 of 69 (27.5%)
Unknown7 of 69 (10.1%)

'Climbed'22 of 69 (31.9%)
clean O/S34 of 69 (49.3%)
clean β1 of 69 (1.4%)
clean rpt2 of 69 (2.9%)
clean RP1 of 69 (1.4%)
dogged7 of 69 (10.1%)
dnf2 of 69 (2.9%)