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Darkinbad the Brightdayler*** E5 6a

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[Darkinbad the Brightdayler (E5 6a), 3 kb]Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.. 1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.. 2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50.

Photo: Darkinbad the Brightdayler (E5 6a) © Kafoozalem
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 54 logbooks, and on 29 wishlists.

Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/12

Lead P1, finished up Eroica.
pezzerrr - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/12

wojtt - Lead O/S - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11

Pippa - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Jon

lead pitch 2
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/11 with rich cross

Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/11

datoon - AltLd - 31/May/11 with K

khawk - AltLd - 31/May/11 with DT

GeoffG - 2011

Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10

feilx - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/10 with Heather

Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Mikey G

2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with alex mason

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve

Great technical slab route.
Ally Baba - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Tony Stone, Mcgeek

Hidden - Lead β - 12/Jul/10

John Mcshea - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Justin Timms

Total epic!
quadmyre - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with John Mcshea

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10

one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with michael porter

An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top!
Richard White - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Rimon Than

Led second pitch
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 2008 with Dave Ferguson

Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!
feilx - Lead dog - 18/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom

felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.
beanfingers - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/06 with felix

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005

tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2003 with Tidy

Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/01 with Viv

sadams - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/00 with John Boyle

It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with Wendy Sampson

Tim M - 2nd - 2000

Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/99 with Roy Thomas

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/97

Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/97 with jon

phardman - 1997

Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/95

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Jul/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/93

whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 25/May/92 with Graham Iles

keefe - 26/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe

Glenn Sutcliffe - 26/May/91 with keefe

ChrisJD - 2nd - 1991 with LukeS

Mark Kemball - 2nd - 1990 with John Jefferies, Chris Calow

Led first pitch
shark - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/89 with Stu Bolton

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Jul/89

frank ramsay - AltLd - Apr/89 with crispin waddy

One of my finest hours. I led it all splitting the first pitch in two as it used to be done. Probably E4 this way. Some in situ gear helped me quickly crack the crux. On the groove pitch I mantled left and nearly threw up with the effort required. A great skin of my teeth lead -- I must have really wanted it.
Kafoozalem - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87 with Pete O'Sullivan

charlesmfrench - 2nd - 1986 with Ian Milne

Mike Owen - 25/Jul/85 with Simon King

Hidden - 1973

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Ed Babs, stonemonkey159, Hidden, LJC, Will Cat, Bisset, quiffhanger, Chad123, iceaxejuggler, Rick hard Rock, Hidden, rustaldo, centurion05, samrad, Hidden, ian caton, derekb, Dr Toph, Alex Mason, franksnb, Hidden, Hidden, chris j, UKC Logbooks, Ropeboy, Hidden, feilx, Hidden, John Gillott

Voting
Total votes cast 53
hard E60 of 18
E60 of 18
easy E60 of 18
hard E52 of 18
E513 of 18
easy E53 of 18
hard E40 of 18
E40 of 18
easy E40 of 18
hard 6b0 of 17
6b0 of 17
easy 6b2 of 17
hard 6a3 of 17
6a12 of 17
easy 6a0 of 17
hard 5c0 of 17
5c0 of 17
easy 5c0 of 17
3 Stars18 of 18
2 Stars0 of 18
1 Star0 of 18
0 Stars0 of 18
Bag of .....0 of 18
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Style of ascent

Lead25 of 54 (46.3%)
Followed10 of 54 (18.5%)
Alt Leads13 of 54 (24.1%)
Unknown6 of 54 (11.1%)

'Climbed'18 of 54 (33.3%)
clean O/S24 of 54 (44.4%)
clean β1 of 54 (1.9%)
clean rpt2 of 54 (3.7%)
clean RP1 of 54 (1.9%)
dogged6 of 54 (11.1%)
dnf2 of 54 (3.7%)