Brilliant climbing which flows perfectly, gear and rests appear just as you really need them - there is a lot of hard climbing.Joughton - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/14
So glad I managed so summon up the courage for the scary start. Immaculate sustained climbing. First pitch one of the best I've ever done, though I found the second just as hard, if safer. Topped out 5mins before getting drenched by a squall. Raced there straight after doing Il Duce - memorable day!
quiffhanger - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/14 with Peter Hill
Seconded P1 clean and P2 in the rain, less clean. Brilliant climbing.
theotherpetehill - 2nd - 08/Aug/14 with Ross McKerchar
bigie bob - Lead O/S - 05/Jul/14
Lead both pitches. Unchalked and straight after 7 hours of driving without a warm up route. Found it pretty tricky in places, especially finding the best holds up after the traverse and then randomly got massive leg shake on the second pitch, thought I was going to fall off that too. Glad to have done it, might have a few years break before I go back for black magic though.
tim newton - Lead O/S - 24/Jun/14 with jon stewart
lead p1. What an outstanding route. Probably the best i have ever climbed. unrelenting. just perfect. emotional.
markalmack - AltLd O/S - 28/May/14 with james marjot
Dan-Cheetham - 2014
Lead the 2nd pitch. What an amazing route
climbingsheep - AltLd O/S - 20/Sep/13 with Anna Duckett, Mike Watson
Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/13
Hidden - 2nd dog - Mar/13
Lead P1. One of the best routes I've done.
kingholmesy - AltLd O/S - 2013 with Jack Metcalfe
Hidden - 2nd - 10/Aug/12
Lead P1, finished up Eroica.
pezzerrr - AltLd dnf - 10/Aug/12
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2012
Rob Greenwood - UKC - AltLd - 2012
Hidden - Lead O/S - 14/Aug/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - 03/Jul/11
Pippa - 2nd - 03/Jul/11 with Jon
lead pitch 2
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 03/Jun/11 with rich cross
Hidden - AltLd - 03/Jun/11
datoon - AltLd - 31/May/11 with K
khawk - AltLd - 31/May/11 with DT
GeoffG - 2011
Hidden - Lead dog - 25/Sep/10
feilx - Lead dnf - 07/Aug/10 with Heather
Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with Mikey G
2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)
Mike Goldthorp - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/10 with alex mason
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Andy Reeve
Great technical slab route.
Ally Baba - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
Ally lead this route & tony lead black magic. They suggested I combined start of black magic with darkinbad finnish, thus making a more sustained pitch. I was on feet for far too long, I hate slabs and I have the most pathetic sport climbing legs in the world! felt miserable, sh*&tin maself and even wished I wasn't there at one point. Awesome route and well worth 5*'s.
mgeek - Lead β - 12/Jul/10 with ally swinton, Tony Stone
John Mcshea - Lead O/S - 12/Jun/10 with Justin Timms
Justin T - 2nd dog - 12/Jun/10 with John Mcshea
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 10/Apr/10
one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk
dan gibson - Lead O/S - 10/Apr/10 with michael porter
An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay.
The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top!
Richard White - Lead O/S - 19/Jul/08 with Rimon Than
Led second pitch
tuftynick - AltLd rpt - 2008 with Dave Ferguson
Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!
feilx - Lead dog - 18/Jun/06 with Crazy Tom
felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.
beanfingers - 2nd dog - 18/Jun/06 with felix
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 2005
Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2005
tuftynick - Lead O/S - 2003 with Tidy
Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 25/Jul/01 with Viv
sadams - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/00 with John Boyle
It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed
ecowaller - Lead O/S - 2000 with Wendy Sampson
Tim M - 2nd - 2000
Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!
goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 05/Aug/99 with Roy Thomas
Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/97
Roget - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/97 with jon
phardman - 1997
Hidden - Lead RP - Jun/96
Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jul/95
Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/94
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 20/Jul/94 with Alan Holden
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994
Hidden - Lead dog - 31/Jul/93
Hidden - Lead O/S - 31/Jul/93
whispering nic - AltLd O/S - 25/May/92 with Graham Iles
keefe - 26/May/91 with Glenn Sutcliffe
Glenn Sutcliffe - 26/May/91 with keefe
ChrisJD - 2nd - 1991 with LukeS
Mark Kemball - 2nd - 1990 with John Jefferies, Chris Calow
Led first pitch
shark - AltLd O/S - 13/Sep/89 with Stu Bolton
Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 19/Jul/89 with Keith Turton
frank ramsay - AltLd - Apr/89 with crispin waddy
Johnny Baker - Lead - Jun/88 with Nigel Birtwell
Hidden - AltLd - 1988
Hidden - Lead O/S - 18/Aug/87
charlesmfrench - 2nd - 1986 with Ian Milne
Mike Owen - 25/Jul/85 with Simon King
Hidden - 1973