Rockfax Description
Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.
1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.
2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

LRob ?/Sep AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 18/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead p1... I did this and black magic 21 years ago... So this was onsight given couldn't remember a thing about it apart from amazing! Touch and go... Am not quite as fit at 40 as I was at 19.

datoon 18/Aug AltLd O/S
AlexD 02/Aug 2nd β

P1 was a tough fight. And chucking rain at us on p2 was a cheap trick born of desperation. But it only steeled our resolve, and we pushed on to emerge victorious. Darkinbad defeated!

with Ed
Ed Babs 02/Aug Lead G/U

Awesome route and a dream tick. Foot slipped just before the crux, pulled the ropes and clean next go. P1 just keeps on coming - I didn't have much left to give on the final crack leading to the belay. I was steeled for P2 to be more of the same, but fortunately the difficulty does relent. Chuffed.

with AlexD
Adam Booth 20/Jul Lead G/U

Amazing! Pretty steady and mostly very good gear. Took a good lob with an annoying foot slip at the crux.

Ed Booth 20/Jul 2nd O/S
pete johnson 18/Jul AltLd dog

Fell off both pitches! Scary start then well protected. Tough. Fantastic.

R2B 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Glad to finally do this beauty.

with Tom N
Misha 28/Jun Lead O/S

Rapid gasps of fear, lost amongst the roar of the sea. Can't reverse the moves, too precarious. Sharp angled back breaker of a boulder, lurking below, waiting for its prey. The dark oppressive wall, uncaring, smirking. It knows it will outlast me, now more than ever. Why, just why?! Dab some chalk on the layaway. Makes it look better, standing out from the blankness that surrounds it. Rationalise the situation, or try to. Feet on, in balance, handholds not great but good enough to shake out. Next few moves look tricky but I'm not going anywhere. Not up, not down and the latter is all that matters right now. Relax the grip. Breathe. A crimp! I can do crimps, I understand them in their simplicity, they are my friends, a friendship built on countless limestone routes. This isn't limestone though, this is - I don't know what the hell this is, Phil said it's pillow lava and now I've made my bed and I must lie in it. That's it, a lie, it's all a lie! The guide book said bold to the ledge at eight metres, why couldn't it just say unprotected, fluffable and scary? Littlejohn must have had gonads the size of watermelons. Breathe. Focus. No place for a foot to pop. Try to appear calm and collected, out of spotting range now, wouldn't want Phil getting too concerned. Next move doesn't look too bad. More chalk, the fairy dust of confidence. The mind clears. Make the move, over in a flash. Repeat... Better holds now and then the ledge, sloping of course. Finger ledges up the sidewall, a crack, gear! I will live to tell the tale on Facebook after all. Can afford to look around and take in the surroundings now. The face above is welcoming, its cracks promising safe conduct through a labyrinth to be unravelled, the line snaking around in search of features and challenge. The rock is lighter in colour and the afternoon sun is pulling round and burning off the clouds, promising a brighter day to erase the dark and bad memories of an experience not to be repeated any time soon. Or at least not until the rat starts gnawing again...

with Phil
philhilo 28/Jun 2nd

OMG.....what a route! Great lead from Misha, falling from 1st section did not bare thinking about. 1st pitch sublime sustained technical 5c/6a, very happy to get this clean. Second pitch total contrast powerful overhang, fell off after wasting energy retrieving stuck nut and sorting out sequence. One of the best routes I have done in nearly 40 years of climbing.

with misha
Bristoldave 21/Mar Lead dog

P1 only. Was really close but came off crux. Bit gutting after 2 1/2 hours of effort. It's an amazing route.

with Derwood
dbrooks 21/Mar 2nd dog

cool to get on a route that I'm unlikely to ever be able to climb... really good effort from Dave... v close

with Dr Dave
Hidden ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. P1 was a real slow train with tricky route finding at the end of the traverse, P2 is immaculate and compliments it well. Brilliant climbing and positions. One to remember.

with Colin
Joughton 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing which flows perfectly, gear and rests appear just as you really need them - there is a lot of hard climbing.

quiffhanger 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S

So glad I managed so summon up the courage for the scary start. Immaculate sustained climbing. First pitch one of the best I've ever done, though I found the second just as hard, if safer. Topped out 5mins before getting drenched by a squall. Raced there straight after doing Il Duce - memorable day!

theotherpetehill 08/Aug/14 2nd

Seconded P1 clean and P2 in the rain, less clean. Brilliant climbing.

with Ross McKerchar
malx ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Unchalked and straight after 7 hours of driving without a warm up route. Found it pretty tricky in places, especially finding the best holds up after the traverse and then randomly got massive leg shake on the second pitch, thought I was going to fall off that too. Glad to have done it, might have a few years break before I go back for black magic though.

markalmack 28/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead p1. What an outstanding route. Probably the best i have ever climbed. unrelenting. just perfect. emotional.

with james marjot
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
climbingsheep 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch. What an amazing route

with Anna Duckett, Mike Watson
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Anna duckett ?/Aug/13 2nd
with Sam Williams, Mike Watson
alice fuller ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. One of the best routes I've done.

Hidden 10/Aug/12 2nd
pezzerrr 10/Aug/12 AltLd dnf

Lead P1, finished up Eroica.

Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

with Chris Rees
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 03/Jul/11 2nd
with Jon
tuftynick 03/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

lead pitch 2

Hidden 03/Jun/11 AltLd
datoon 31/May/11 AltLd
with K
khawk 31/May/11 AltLd
with DT
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
feilx 07/Aug/10 Lead dnf
with Heather
Alex Mason 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.

with Mikey G
Mike Goldthorp 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)

Toby Dunn 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Andy Reeve
Ally Baba 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great technical slab route.

with Tony Stone, Mcgeek
mgeek 12/Jul/10 Lead β

Ally lead this route & tony lead black magic. They suggested I combined start of black magic with darkinbad finnish, thus making a more sustained pitch. I was on feet for far too long, I hate slabs and I have the most pathetic sport climbing legs in the world! felt miserable, sh*&tin maself and even wished I wasn't there at one point. Awesome route and well worth 5*'s.

with ally swinton, Tony Stone
John Mcshea 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Justin T 12/Jun/10 2nd dog

Total epic!

Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk

with michael porter
Hidden 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S
tuftynick ??/2008 AltLd rpt

Led second pitch

with Dave Ferguson
feilx 18/Jun/06 Lead dog

Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!

with Crazy Tom
beanfingers 18/Jun/06 2nd dog

felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.

with felix
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched ??/2005 Lead O/S

4 stars

tuftynick ??/2003 Lead O/S
with Tidy
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25/Jul/01 Lead O/S

Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too

with Viv
sadams 12/Aug/00 Lead O/S
with John Boyle
ecowaller ??/2000 Lead O/S

It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed

with Wendy Sampson
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
goi.ashmore 05/Aug/99 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!

with Roy Thomas
Hidden 14/Aug/97 2nd
Roget 18/Jun/97 Lead O/S
with jon
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden ?/Jun/96 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
FATBOYFAT ??/1995 2nd O/S

P1 only

with Dave Henderson
Hidden ?/Oct/94 Lead dog
mattnuttall 20/Jul/94 Lead O/S
with Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/93 Lead
with Phil Baker
Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic 25/May/92 AltLd O/S
with Graham Iles
keefe 26/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 26/May/91 -
with keefe
Hidden ??/1991 2nd
Mark Kemball ??/1990 2nd
with John Jefferies, Chris Calow
shark 13/Sep/89 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

with Stu Bolton
Bruce Kerr 19/Jul/89 AltLd
with Keith Turton
frank ramsay ?/Apr/89 AltLd
with crispin waddy
Johnny Baker ?/Jun/88 Lead
with Nigel Birtwell
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1986 2nd
with Ian Milne
Mike Owen 25/Jul/85 Lead O/S
with Simon King
Hidden ??/1973 -
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, harry_lewis, Hidden, theomoore, Tom McCabe, Hidden, dominic lee, Kipper-Phil Smith, Ian Jones, WilliamD, RFWilkie, i.fish2000, Hidden, Hidden, Liam Ingram, Hidden, alexjz, Ed Babs, Matt Harle, Hidden, LJC, Motown, Hidden, Chad123, iceaxejuggler, Ricky Rocks, Hidden, rustaldo, Hidden, samrad, Hidden, ian caton, derekb, Hidden, Alex Mason, franksnb, Hidden, Hidden, chris j, UKC Logbooks, Ropeboy, Hidden, feilx, Hidden, John Gillott
High E6
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High E5
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High E4
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Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Flashed (β)
Ground Up
Not Set