Rockfax Description
Phenomenal climbing on both pitches mark this route out as one of Britain's best. Although the start is bold the meat of the difficult climbing is reasonably protected. Start on huge boulders 7m right of Eroica at a vague line of weakness below the left side of a narrow ledge at 8m.
1) 6a, 48m. Step up off a boulder onto the wall and climb boldly to the left end of a ledge at 8m. Climb the wall via cracks to a flake and follow it leftwards to a peg in two short left to right-leaning cracks. Traverse left for 4m and make fingery moves up to the line of overhangs above. Follow a steep flake and crack diagonally rightwards to its end and climb the thin crack in the wall above with difficulty to the second stance of Eroica.
2) 5c, 22m. Traverse left into the base of the next corner and climb to where it starts to overhang. Make forceful moves up the steep section to an easing as the corner kicks back. Finish up the wall above. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Extreme Rock, Top five E5s, Great Wall Climbs of the UK, Very good routes in the UK, Good E4s, West Country Climbs, Rockfax West Country top 50, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

ClimberDateStyleNotes & Partners
LRob ?/Sep AltLd O/S
mattnuttall 18/Aug AltLd O/S

Lead p1... I did this and black magic 21 years ago... So this was onsight given couldn't remember a thing about it apart from amazing! Touch and go... Am not quite as fit at 40 as I was at 19.

datoon 18/Aug AltLd O/S
AlexD 02/Aug 2nd β

P1 was a tough fight. And chucking rain at us on p2 was a cheap trick born of desperation. But it only steeled our resolve, and we pushed on to emerge victorious. Darkinbad defeated!

Ed Babs 02/Aug Lead G/U

Awesome route and a dream tick. Foot slipped just before the crux, pulled the ropes and clean next go. P1 just keeps on coming - I didn't have much left to give on the final crack leading to the belay. I was steeled for P2 to be more of the same, but fortunately the difficulty does relent. Chuffed.

Adam Booth 20/Jul Lead G/U

Amazing! Pretty steady and mostly very good gear. Took a good lob with an annoying foot slip at the crux.

Ed Booth 20/Jul 2nd O/S
pete johnson 18/Jul AltLd dog

Fell off both pitches! Scary start then well protected. Tough. Fantastic.

Conor Shepherd
R2B 04/Jul AltLd O/S

Glad to finally do this beauty.

Tom N
Misha 28/Jun Lead O/S
philhilo 28/Jun 2nd

OMG.....what a route! Great lead from Misha, falling from 1st section did not bare thinking about. 1st pitch sublime sustained technical 5c/6a, very happy to get this clean. Second pitch total contrast powerful overhang, fell off after wasting energy retrieving stuck nut and sorting out sequence. One of the best routes I have done in nearly 40 years of climbing.

Bristoldave 21/Mar Lead dog

P1 only. Was really close but came off crux. Bit gutting after 2 1/2 hours of effort. It's an amazing route.

dbrooks 21/Mar 2nd dog

cool to get on a route that I'm unlikely to ever be able to climb... really good effort from Dave... v close

Hidden ??/2015 AltLd O/S
Ed morris 04/Oct/14 Lead O/S

Led both pitches. P1 was a real slow train with tricky route finding at the end of the traverse, P2 is immaculate and compliments it well. Brilliant climbing and positions. One to remember.

Joughton 20/Aug/14 AltLd O/S

Brilliant climbing which flows perfectly, gear and rests appear just as you really need them - there is a lot of hard climbing.

quiffhanger 08/Aug/14 Lead O/S

So glad I managed so summon up the courage for the scary start. Immaculate sustained climbing. First pitch one of the best I've ever done, though I found the second just as hard, if safer. Topped out 5mins before getting drenched by a squall. Raced there straight after doing Il Duce - memorable day!

theotherpetehill 08/Aug/14 2nd

Seconded P1 clean and P2 in the rain, less clean. Brilliant climbing.

Ross McKerchar
malx ?/Aug/14 Lead O/S
bigie bob 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S
tim newton 24/Jun/14 Lead O/S

Lead both pitches. Unchalked and straight after 7 hours of driving without a warm up route. Found it pretty tricky in places, especially finding the best holds up after the traverse and then randomly got massive leg shake on the second pitch, thought I was going to fall off that too. Glad to have done it, might have a few years break before I go back for black magic though.

markalmack 28/May/14 AltLd O/S

lead p1. What an outstanding route. Probably the best i have ever climbed. unrelenting. just perfect. emotional.

james marjot
Dan-Cheetham ??/2014 -
climbingsheep 20/Sep/13 AltLd O/S

Lead the 2nd pitch. What an amazing route

Anna Duckett, Mike Watson
Hidden 24/Aug/13 AltLd O/S
Anna duckett ?/Aug/13 2nd
Sam Williams, Mike Watson
Hidden ?/Mar/13 2nd dog
kingholmesy ??/2013 AltLd O/S

Lead P1. One of the best routes I've done.

Hidden 10/Aug/12 2nd
pezzerrr 10/Aug/12 AltLd dnf

Lead P1, finished up Eroica.

Hidden ??/2012 Lead O/S
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2012 AltLd
Dave Turnbull, BMC 14/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Led both pitches.

Chris Rees
Hidden 03/Jul/11 Lead O/S
Pippa 03/Jul/11 2nd
tuftynick 03/Jun/11 AltLd rpt

lead pitch 2

Hidden 03/Jun/11 AltLd
datoon 31/May/11 AltLd
khawk 31/May/11 AltLd
GeoffG ??/2011 -
Hidden 25/Sep/10 Lead dog
feilx 07/Aug/10 Lead dnf
Alex Mason 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

Fucking yeeda! High on the wishlist. The main pitch is just phoenomenal. The bold start isnt to bad (5c), then lots of brilliant 5b-6a climbing between great gear. Memorable moves for a long pitch. 7a/+.

Mike Goldthorp 28/Jul/10 AltLd O/S

2nd pitch. Just seconding the first pitch was super inspiring! but 2nd pitch is not without its charms, fantastic exposure and one quite hard move (probably 6a)

Toby Dunn 25/Jul/10 Lead O/S
Andy Reeve
Ally Baba 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Great technical slab route.

Tony Stone, Mcgeek
mgeek 12/Jul/10 Lead β

Ally lead this route & tony lead black magic. They suggested I combined start of black magic with darkinbad finnish, thus making a more sustained pitch. I was on feet for far too long, I hate slabs and I have the most pathetic sport climbing legs in the world! felt miserable, sh*&tin maself and even wished I wasn't there at one point. Awesome route and well worth 5*'s.

ally swinton, Tony Stone
John Mcshea 12/Jun/10 Lead O/S
Justin T 12/Jun/10 2nd dog

Total epic!

Hidden 10/Apr/10 2nd O/S
dan gibson 10/Apr/10 Lead O/S

one of the best routes iv'e done in the uk

michael porter
Southern Mark Smith 19/Jul/08 Lead O/S

An amazing route up the complex Great Wall face. I was surprised (and strangely pleased) how sustained this route is. It is very technical and gives nothing away, requiring concentration and effort all the way to the belay. The second pitch is pretty fierce as well. Don't expect an easy ride as it would be quite easy to blow it right at the top!

Rimon Than
tuftynick ??/2008 AltLd rpt

Led second pitch

Dave Ferguson
feilx 18/Jun/06 Lead dog

Wow. Stunning line. Too hard for me though, lobbed off on the first pitch and wussed out on the second. I'll be back when I am stronger!

Crazy Tom
beanfingers 18/Jun/06 2nd dog

felix was very close to getting this clean, but feel on the crux. i did the same on second. didnt do the second pitch but escaped up eroica.

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe ??/2005 Lead O/S
Davros the Psyched ??/2005 Lead O/S

4 stars

tuftynick ??/2003 Lead O/S
Dave Musgrove Jnr 25/Jul/01 Lead O/S

Completely amazing, one of the very best routes in Britain. Second pitch is pretty taxing too

sadams 12/Aug/00 Lead O/S
John Boyle
ecowaller ??/2000 Lead O/S

It brings a tear to my eye...perfect route, perfect day, flashed

Wendy Sampson
Tim M ??/2000 2nd
goi.ashmore 05/Aug/99 Lead O/S

Pitch 1 only as there was an epic downpower and we had to aid out up Eroica!

Roy Thomas
Hidden 14/Aug/97 2nd
Roget 18/Jun/97 Lead O/S
phardman ??/1997 -
Hidden ?/Jun/96 Lead RP
Hidden ?/Jul/95 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Oct/94 Lead dog
mattnuttall 20/Jul/94 Lead O/S
Alan Holden
Hidden ??/1994 Lead O/S
Alan James - UKC and UKH 07/Aug/93 Lead
Phil Baker
Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead dog
Hidden 31/Jul/93 Lead O/S
whispering nic 25/May/92 AltLd O/S
Graham Iles
keefe 26/May/91 -
Glenn Sutcliffe 26/May/91 -
ChrisJD ??/1991 2nd
Mark Kemball ??/1990 2nd
John Jefferies, Chris Calow
shark 13/Sep/89 AltLd O/S

Led first pitch

Stu Bolton
Bruce Kerr 19/Jul/89 AltLd
Keith Turton
frank ramsay ?/Apr/89 AltLd
crispin waddy
Johnny Baker ?/Jun/88 Lead
Nigel Birtwell
Hidden ??/1988 AltLd
Hidden 18/Aug/87 Lead O/S
charlesmfrench ??/1986 2nd
Ian Milne
Mike Owen 25/Jul/85 Lead O/S
Simon King
Hidden ??/1973 -
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 30
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 29
Votes cast 28
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Not Set
Ground Up
Flashed (β)
Not Set