Rockfax Description
Stunning rock but very serious climbing that is reliant on the ageing pegs. Start on a huge boulder left of the big corner on the right-hand side of the Great Wall.
1) 6a, 40m. Pull onto the easy-angled wall and head for a protruding peg. Traverse left below this, thin tape on low spike, to and up a shallow rising rampline to a point beneath twin pegs. Make thin, bold moves up to the pegs and continue up the fingery wall above them for 5m to better holds and some wires. Move on up the still steep wall to another peg. Climb an easier shallow groove to a good jug, and move right to a corner and climb it to a stance on ledges.
2) 5c, 30m. Climb leftwards to meet the top pitch of Black Magic and finish up this. © Rockfax

Ticklists: West Country Climbs.


ClimberDateStyle
alice fuller ?/Jul 2nd dog

Did direct start-fine unprotected climbing from the big black boulder to the left-rising traverse right to small undercut hold to help get around the arete onto the original line .Woj put masses of gear up here.Take every small cam you can get.My one fall was off the crux move at the top of the groove,I found out which holds worked, and got it clean second time.Woj didn't use the pegs(deliberately),which meant 2 long run outs,because he finished up Black Magic.Just ace to be in the lovely place when in good dry conditions.

with woj
Hidden 15/Sep/96 Lead O/S
frank ramsay 13/May/92 Lead
Voting
High E7
Mid E7
Low E7
High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c