Voie Madier or South face direct*** TD
[Martin Haworth leading the Madier fissure, a tough overhang/offwidth., 2 kb]300m, 13 pitches. 4 to 5 hrs.
M. Fourastier, A Madier 01/Sep/1937

Photo: Martin Haworth leading the Madier fissure, a tough overhang/offwidth. © Andrew Sloan
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 55 logbooks, and on 14 wishlists.

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/14

Hidden - AltLd - 01/Aug/14

tatz45 - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/14 with Katy Vose

OERees - AltLd O/S - 17/Jul/14

rich.manterfield - AltLd O/S - Jul/14 with Josh Fawcett

ambrooker - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13 with Tom

Long day out. Al lost a contact lens and the scrambling pitches at the top of the mountain took longer than expected.
chiverstom - Lead O/S - 02/Sep/13 with Alice

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Aug/13

Really good
louby - AltLd - 22/Aug/13 with Chris Burn

Hidden - 2nd dog - 17/Aug/13

So good we went up twice.
Jake Young - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/13 with Mike

An awesome route climbed with Ben Graham. 8 hrs from hut to hut, although we did get a bit held up on the early pitches (which are shared with other routes) and at the abseil (which can be a bottle neck, as all routes finish on the small summit). Good climbing on sound rock and very dry at an 8am start considering the storm that soaked us on the walk in to the hut the previous night! A couple of pitches in the middle section were very thin on bolts - one 40m+ pitch with lots of laybacking was totally trad after one bolt before an overhanging move next to the belay! Worth having a selection of cams! We took the decission to climb around the 6a pitch, as a Spanish team were struggling on it and a storm was moving in. It was a shame to miss the pitch, but more important to get ahead of them and get off the summit (which is a perfect lighning conductor!) before the storm broke. The route as a whole felt VS 4c, with elements of HVS 5a. We climbed it in 14 pitches and with no issues regarding route finding. The descent is very pleasant by Alpine standards - a couple of 25m abseils from good chains and an easy down scramble traverse to the cairned path which leads to cold beers & a genuine welcome from the very friendly staff back at the hut! :)
carlh - AltLd O/S - 13/Aug/12

tobydunford - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/12 with Harry Martin

uncontrollable - AltLd O/S - Aug/12 with Tom S, Max

guy757 - 09/Jul/12

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Sep/11

went a bit off route in middle, Lots of bolts replacing the pitons, few cams were used. long day in a three! Good mountain crag and hut!
J1PEF - AltLd - 23/Sep/11 with beds

Big day in a 3...Great route, did some variations lot's...and ended up doing crack pitch onto arete and then some easy chossy pitches up the right onto the 'ledge' led a 6b pitch abed down....then traversed left back onto the Madier route and up. Tricky route finding with French topo. Abseil descent is a luxury compared to some get off's! Down and back to hut by 20.15. Guardian waiting for us, and remember Craig NO! She sleeps on her own!!
beds74 - AltLd - 22/Sep/11 with Craig Hartley, Jon Peffer

hartleycsh - 2nd - 22/Sep/11 with jon peffer, Paul Bedford

glenngordon - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/11 with bomber harris

Brilliant route, great day. First 3 pitches still wet in places so had route to ourselves. Fissure Madier was superb but hard
Martin Haworth - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/11 with Andy

Stunning route.Struggled to second Madier fissure with rucksack; I would give this pitch sustained F6b or top end E1 and the rest of the route beween VS and HVS. Just made it down to the hut for dinner!
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 05/Sep/11

Stunning route on a stunning mountain! We took a set of nuts, but didn't need them, although a couple of cams proved useful.
Ken Applegate - AltLd - 22/Aug/11 with Scott Kirkhope

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/11

awesome climb with some of the best views i've ever seen
roberto18 - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/10 with Dad (Mike Bridges)

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Aug/10

jshields - AltLd - 04/Aug/10 with Ian Hicks

Matthew Robinson - AltLd - Aug/10 with Joe

basvdploeg - 2010

Absolutely stunning day out. Jason led majority (about 12) out of the apprx 16 pitches, including the tough ones at the top.
andy mcc - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/09 with Jason King

What a mountain. Stunning to look at, stunning rock, stunning surroundings and stunning climbing!
bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/09 with John

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08

PenJD - AltLd O/S - 28/Jul/08 with Dave Johnson

jasper11 - 2008 with Gaz Morgan

sgl - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/07 with Konnie

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/07

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 23/Jul/07

TimPerkin - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/07 with Colin Beechey

Hidden - 30/Aug/06

Lead first 4 pitches
graniterocks - AltLd - Sep/05 with Anirban Gupta, Shane Topley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/03

A great climb on a superb natural feature: a rock cathedral dominating its wild cwm. As the spire narrows towards the top, you get some thrilling exposure, but the routes also get pretty close together and we finished up doing a couple of pitches of Visite Obligatpoire. Definitely no loss of quality - everything on this must be superb.
Andy Clarke - AltLd - 29/Jul/03 with James

Campbell42 - AltLd O/S - Aug/01 with Graham Exley

nige pacer - AltLd O/S - Jul/98

Hidden - Lead - Aug/97

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jul/97

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Jul/97 with JThomas

Snowed at the top
Chris Ellis - AltLd O/S - 18/Aug/95 with Louise Pellett

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1995

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/94

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1994

auld al - 2nd O/S - Jul/90

jcw - 1967

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
james.slater, andrewmcleod, gavinpeach, ChrisBrooke, Bradders, The Bad Cough, Sankey, jules699, Tommy81

Voting
Total votes cast 21
hard TD+0 of 7
TD+0 of 7
easy TD+1 of 7
hard TD1 of 7
TD5 of 7
easy TD0 of 7
hard TD-0 of 7
TD-0 of 7
easy TD-0 of 7
3 Stars14 of 14
2 Stars0 of 14
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Bag of .....0 of 14
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Style of ascent

Lead
Followed
Alt Leads
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
dogged
dnf