Malaga / El Chorro > El Polvorin >
 
Sueño de Venus*** 6a+

Adjacent Climbs
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Sueno de Venus variacion >>
[Johann Urbano warming up on Sueño de Venus, 6a+, El Polvorin, El Chorro., 2 kb]2 pitches. An outstanding expedition which gains a long line of good holds, after a tricky start as for Alerta Roja. An excellent introduction to the wall. © ROCKFAX
Originally a 2 pitcher, which came out of the gully and climbed diagonally right to a BB at about 15m. Now normally done by heading over the belay, but moving left before it and running up the rib above on pockets, trending slightly left.

Photo: Johann Urbano warming up on Sueño de Venus, 6a+, El Polvorin, El Chorro. © patrickpearce
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 90 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

papashango - Lead O/S - 24/Mar/14 with Elliot

gurumed - Lead O/S - 08/Mar/14 with Dawn

Hidden - Lead O/S - Mar/14

nutallovertheface - Lead O/S - Mar/14 with Matt W & The Olive Branch Crew

Ed Babs - Lead O/S - 26/Feb/14 with Dr Steve

Joughton - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/14

Great intro to the crag.
Dibdawg - Lead rpt - 15/Feb/14 with Andy Fuller

AJM - Lead O/S - 14/Feb/14 with Helen Seaborne, Ali Baylay

hms - Lead β - 14/Feb/14 with AJM

Dibdawg - Lead O/S - 06/Jan/14 with Kyle Pattinson

tobydunford - Lead O/S - 02/Jan/14 with Kirsty Kerr

Great route, very sustained
kp64zl - 2nd dog - Jan/14

TraverseKing - 27/Dec/13

Fragmod - Lead - 09/Nov/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 22/Oct/13

totally this was my climb of the week very spaced bolts and every move in the book, scary,and very satisfying making that chain! loved it in a very sick way
goddamm7 - Lead RP - 16/Oct/13 with sarah batson

sustained climbing on polished rock. massive holds after the first 3 bolts but so polished none of them felt totally comfortable. Also very run out near the top. Fun Fun climb for the grade.
cashew nut - Lead O/S - 15/Apr/13

Nice long sustained climbing.
domskezz - Lead O/S - 12/Apr/13 with Jamma

dave657 - Lead dog - 25/Mar/13 with Alys

Cold and wet - three rests after the break
rd20 - 2nd dog - 27/Feb/13 with Patrick

Charlie Zephyr Booth - 2013

John Kettle - Lead O/S - 05/Dec/12

Johann - Lead O/S - 22/Nov/12 with Darren Russel

Hidden - Lead β - 21/Nov/12

I think we worked out we did an 18f+ combining the 6c, 6a+ and 6b into one pitch ...
robertmichaeladams - Lead - 01/Nov/12 with Ben

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/Apr/12

krasavenko - Lead dnf - 16/Apr/12 with Ally Rocke

Entertaining.
allyrocke - Lead O/S - 16/Apr/12 with Liyen Nhuyen

david morse - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/12 with josh

Hidden - 2nd - 20/Mar/12

Hidden - Lead - Mar/12

elyben - Lead dog - 14/Feb/12

Tom Keaveny - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/12 with Olly Roberts

ollyroberts - Lead O/S - 12/Jan/12 with Tom

cayteye - TR - 11/Jan/12

givemetea - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/12 with Craig Jenkins

3 Names - Lead O/S - 05/Jan/12 with Sumee Holloway

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 30/Dec/11

Hard and rather runout! exciting for sure...
James Oswald - Lead O/S - 21/Dec/11 with Chris White

Hidden - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/11

mark20 - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/11

bigdrew - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/11 with Becky

mwatson - Lead O/S - Dec/11

wolverine - Lead O/S - 20/Oct/11 with Sarah Marks

Elsier - 2nd - 19/Oct/11 with Neil

Fultonius - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/11

Neil Adams - Lead β - 19/Oct/11 with Dougie Harvey, Ally F

dougs1232 - Lead O/S - 19/Oct/11 with Neil Adams, Alasdair Fulton

REALLY FUN CLIMBING :)
cliffrad - Lead O/S - 08/May/11

Tom Livingstone - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/11

NAILS for 6a+!! First few clips are tricky, (though you can skirt round them on the left) Then sustained with a few good rests. more like 6b(+). Was in trad mode on this, not sport mode. Also went off route to the right of the big tufa...scary traverse back left! Sweet route though :)
Duncan Campbell - UKC - Lead O/S - 20/Apr/11 with Florence the Machine, Mason

hetaher - Apr/11 with Duncan Campbell

Hidden - Lead dnf - 27/Jan/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/10

Paul Bowen - Lead O/S - 04/Nov/10 with Rebecca Hayes

Runout and sustained and long but by the top it becomes a very enjoyable pitch....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 19/Oct/10 with Emily

Very very very very polished. Perhaps not the best time of the year for this sector but oh my god it was polished. Super run out in placdes as well Not quite sure how this sector gets such good reviews, seems sketchy as f*ck to me.
mr_nsglover - Lead dnf - Sep/10

Hard.
jacobjlloyd - Lead O/S - 20/Jun/10 with Dougie

dswansonlow - Lead rpt - 20/Jun/10 with Eugene Theron, jacob loyd

nice climbing, tricky little move low down then jug pulling to finish.
JamieSparkes - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/10 with Phil

Phil Jennings - Lead O/S - 01/Apr/10 with Jamie Sparkes

I've never been so pumped in my life. Not a good warm up. I climbed for another 3 clips after I thought I wanted to rest but eventually gave in to the pain in my forearms. All the moves are easy enough (after the start) if you do them right but the climb is relentless. That the first section is so much harder means you're pumped from the first clip too. Definitely should be done fast.
matthewjames - Lead dog - 26/Mar/10 with Cherie McCormack, Mike Byrne, Matt Cooke, John Cheung

jamiefoxen - Lead O/S - Jan/10 with Graham Dawson, bob foster

dswansonlow - Lead O/S - 20/Dec/09 with Tom Maidwell

mattcyp88 - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/09 with Jenni Stephens

both pitches
barni - Lead O/S - 06/Dec/09 with luke

Difficult start. Maybe 6b+.
juhah - Lead β - 09/Nov/09 with Janne R

Hidden - Lead dog - 26/Sep/09

very hard, 6b+
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 13/May/09 with Lee Cooper

leepip - Lead O/S - May/09 with al mason

Hidden - 2nd - 09/Apr/09

Hidden - Lead O/S - 07/Apr/09

CalumC - Lead O/S - 06/Apr/09 with Hertha Taverner Wood

pimpy - Lead dog - 06/Apr/09

Shaw Brown - AltLd - 19/Mar/09 with Jeb

chiverstom - Lead O/S - 26/Jan/09 with Ivo

Led both pitches
Ken Applegate - Lead dog - 07/Jan/09 with Hannah Evans

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/08

Dr Caterpillar - 2nd dog - Feb/08 with Adam

Brown - Lead O/S - 19/Dec/07 with Matt

jimdanson - Lead O/S - 19/Mar/07 with Bob Curry

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 21/Mar/04 with Rich Hatton

martroberts - Lead O/S - 28/Oct/01

atch - AltLd - Mar/96

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Nov/95

Rob Kennard - 1995 with Mark Lloyd, Andy Bridger

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Feb/94

goi.ashmore - Lead O/S - 23/Dec/93 with Simon Coles

OMSKB - Lead O/S - 23/Apr/93

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Adam_42

Voting
Total votes cast 42
hard 6b0 of 22
6b0 of 22
easy 6b7 of 22
hard 6a+11 of 22
6a+4 of 22
easy 6a+0 of 22
hard 6a0 of 22
6a0 of 22
easy 6a0 of 22
3 Stars10 of 20
2 Stars7 of 20
1 Star1 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....2 of 20
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Style of ascent

Lead74 of 90 (82.2%)
Followed6 of 90 (6.7%)
Toproped1 of 90 (1.1%)
Alt Leads5 of 90 (5.6%)
Unknown4 of 90 (4.4%)

'Climbed'14 of 90 (15.6%)
clean O/S57 of 90 (63.3%)
clean β4 of 90 (4.4%)
clean rpt2 of 90 (2.2%)
clean RP1 of 90 (1.1%)
dogged9 of 90 (10.0%)
dnf3 of 90 (3.3%)