Cumbria > Pillar Rock >
New West Climb*** VD

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[checking gear, pitch 3, new west pillar, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain.

Photo: checking gear, pitch 3, new west pillar © topcat65
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This climb is in 105 logbooks, and on 72 wishlists.

long walk in, great climb.
j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13

Excellent! One of the best mountain routes I've been on. Linked P1 and 2 together to save a bit of time. Difficult chimney on P4. Some brilliant positions.
MikeLell - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Emma Parkinson

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/13

I led P1 and P2 together and P4, Ian led P3 and P5 together.
Darrell Read - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Ian Johnson

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

Slick - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

Overrated...two classic rock routes that overlap...contrived. Rib & slab much more enjoyable.
beds74 - Lead - 26/May/13 with Rebecca Edwards

With Nick Morphet, great route
acb44 - AltLd - May/13

Hidden - 2013

Andy Chadwick - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Moved together in big boots with one belay at the foot of the chimney. Nice climbing throughout.
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Lawrence Dudley

moved together,climbed in big belay under main chimney.finished direct up the chimney at Severe(last pitch of Sodom)as without guide book!
tomshanti - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Max Streeton

In big boots and with three quickdraws it felt a bit run-out.
Mr Fuller - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Ben Lewis, Dave Williamson

bigredsquirrel - 2nd - 05/May/12 with Mr Fuller

Good route, terrible walk in!
Theeni - AltLd - 07/Apr/12 with Matt Kemp

First pitch Rib and wall, and on from the first belay on new west.
tobyk - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with Emma Akam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12

tapley - 2012

tapley - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

JonG - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11

Damp and slimy all the way which provided an excellent chimney crux.
moose ridd - AltLd - 04/Sep/11 with M.Sadler

Danny Crump - Lead - 05/Aug/11 with John Andrews

Gary A S - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with JB

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

In two pitches on a more direct variation. Led from ground to junction with Rib and Slab.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Dan Matthewman

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Kris & Mark

myoung - AltLd - 30/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

I led the first 2 pitches in one, and the chimney/traverse pitch, ie the same as last time, oops. Even better than I remember it.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Rob

bit chilly !
lithos - 26/Mar/11 with Toreador

brianrunner - 2011

bsmedz - 2011

rurp - Lead - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/10

electriclinz - AltLd - 09/Oct/10 with Robert

Moving together less than in 35 minutes.
Diggler - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with andyob

Spade - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Jim Turner

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Caralynh - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Jez Hadall

Superb route. Easy to run first two guidebook pitches together, on third possibly continue to belay at chockstone 9m up chimney pitch, and from there lead through to the top - but that would miss the wonderful stance at the end of the traverse out of the chimney.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 31/May/10 with Cath Sullivan

Stephen Halliday - Lead β - 15/May/10 with Finn Curry

Finn Curry - 2nd - 15/May/10 with Stephen Halliday

jl - Solo O/S - 09/May/10 with No Partner

Led 1st pitch only
Simon K - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with NE

sass - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/09

dave josling - 2nd - Oct/09

Fantastic, the traverse left to the chimney pitch is awesome. Well worth the epic hike from Buttermere on its own, let alone a tricky old chimney for fun and games... terrific.
jimorothy - Lead - 25/Aug/09 with Rachel Crolla

nakedave - AltLd - 13/Jun/09 with Tom Hull

tomhull - AltLd - 13/Jun/09 with dave thornley

The chimney and the traverse just before it are the crux and definately vdiff in standard
alexanderpatton - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Alex Kidgell

alexkidgell - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Alex Patton

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/09

Rich Clague - Lead - Jan/08

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/07

Hidden - Solo - 05/May/07

Hidden - Solo - 05/May/07

In 4 pitches, guidebook pitches 1+2 combined. I led 1 and 3. Excellent stuff, even on the chimney pitch where I made the mistake of following the guidebook description instead of the polish...
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Carmen

Climbed 4 out of 5 pitches of what we thought was New West. Turned out we were wrong! Got into difficulty and had to self-rescue, abandoning a stuck rope in the process. A bit of an epic, all told.
d80f0u - AltLd dnf - 14/Oct/06 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/06

Led pitch 1-3. PR off route on last pitch.
Simon K - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/05 with PR,JB

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 2005 with Clare

AndyRitchie - 2nd - 10/Jul/04 with Roger Chaldecott

John Kettle - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - 2004

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/03

What an epic. Started pouring with rain at the top of the first pitch and didn't stop for the rest of the day. After several failed attempts to find the way off we got benighted. I spent the night removing slugs from my rucksack. A great learning experience. Good route though. Some very exposed belays.
Neil Henson - 2nd - 2002 with Mark Collins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/00

Hidden - 2000

Hidden - 2000

runestone - 2000

rob k - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/97

kevp - Lead O/S - Aug/95 with Mike Vogler

Tenko - Jun/95 with Kev Wilson

bivi below route. A bit wet and slimy to start but improving a lot as we got further up. Really good route.
Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/94 with Paola Parenti

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/93

biggianthead - Jun/93 with T

Rog Wilko - AltLd - 16/Jun/90 with Debbie Wilkinson

andyfeds - AltLd - 1990 with Andy C

johnkeith - 1990 with Brenda Callander

Andy Say - Solo - 22/Aug/88

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 01/Jul/87

Hammy - Solo - 05/Jun/87

lithos - Lead - 1987 with dave stokes

JohnHutch - Lead - 10/Jun/82 with HRB

biggianthead - Jun/82 with G

99bolivar - 1982

Tom V - 1980

Hidden - Aug/78

RichardMc - AltLd - 25/May/76 with Dave Langmead

Chris Craggs - 1975

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/71

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Total votes cast 39
hard HVD0 of 19
HVD0 of 19
easy HVD2 of 19
hard VD3 of 19
VD12 of 19
easy VD1 of 19
hard HD1 of 19
HD0 of 19
easy HD0 of 19
3 Stars17 of 20
2 Stars3 of 20
1 Star0 of 20
0 Stars0 of 20
Bag of .....0 of 20
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Style of ascent

Soloed5 of 105 (4.8%)
Lead24 of 105 (22.9%)
Followed8 of 105 (7.6%)
Alt Leads42 of 105 (40.0%)
Unknown26 of 105 (24.8%)

'Climbed'67 of 105 (63.8%)
clean O/S35 of 105 (33.3%)
clean β1 of 105 (1.0%)
clean rpt1 of 105 (1.0%)
dnf1 of 105 (1.0%)