static266 12/May AltLd O/S
jalqazzaz 12/May AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/May AltLd O/S
glaramara 07/May AltLd

Varied climbing with easy 1st two pitches then harder traverse and chimney. Chimney polished.

with james, Mau mau
Mike Roger ??/2016 -
joermann 11/Sep/15 Solo
steve gould 12/Aug/15 Solo
Hidden 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
Hidden 25/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
markfromstoke 16/Jul/15 Lead
with Duncan
Graeme Hammond 04/Jul/15 Solo O/S

Fantastic especially the traverse with air between your feet at the grade!

Sameer 04/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Andy Jobling
DeanD 17/Jun/15 AltLd
Hidden 11/Jun/15 -
paulh.0776 23/May/15 Lead dnf

made it up the first 2 pitches but abbed off as the party of 3 in front took 2.5hrs to do 2 pitches!! started at 1.30 and retreated at 4.15......very disappointing

with hmc Di
gladys 23/May/15 2nd
Mike Soulby 23/May/15 AltLd O/S
with Alisa
Rebecca Peacock 23/May/15 2nd O/S
gunnarofhlidarend ??/2015 AltLd
Hidden 15/Nov/14 AltLd O/S
JohnBear 26/Aug/14 Solo
jon59 22/Jul/14 -
KevB 22/Jul/14 AltLd O/S
with Jon Evans
sprout3099 25/Jun/14 Lead
with Becky Wood
alan moore 22/Jun/14 Solo

Remarkably steep and sustained for its grade! Can't think of anything in Wales or Scotland that compares. Up New West, down Old, up Rib and Slab, down Slab and Notch. A great morning out.

Two Cams Tom 21/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
with Ash
petegunn 20/Jun/14 AltLd
with Davina
Hidden 20/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Nigel Bond 14/Jun/14 Lead
with Colin Hutton
Hidden 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S
Martin Davies 01/Jun/14 AltLd O/S

Great route, ran first 3 pitches together. Matt had the chimney, lovely thrutch-fest! Great expedition feel ending on top of a pinnacle and abbing off, great fun.

with Matt Harris
Hidden 17/May/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 17/May/14 2nd O/S
alikirk 17/May/14 2nd O/S

Either climbed as a second or as the third with Geoff. Climb made difficult by us climbing up with daysacks. Brutal walk in but wirth it for the climb.

nj.harris ??/2014 -
j.buckley87 12/Oct/13 Lead O/S

long walk in, great climb.

MikeLell 14/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Excellent! One of the best mountain routes I've been on. Linked P1 and 2 together to save a bit of time. Difficult chimney on P4. Some brilliant positions.

with Emma Parkinson
Hidden 04/Sep/13 Lead
Darrell Read 03/Aug/13 AltLd O/S

I led P1 and P2 together and P4, Ian led P3 and P5 together.

Graham Westbrook 12/Jul/13 AltLd O/S
Slick 08/Jun/13 AltLd
Egons Issy 08/Jun/13 AltLd
with Kevin Vans-Colina, Richard Nicholson
Hidden 02/Jun/13 Lead O/S
xusa ?/Jun/13 2nd O/S
beds74 26/May/13 Lead

Overrated...two classic rock routes that overlap...contrived. Rib & slab much more enjoyable.

with Rebecca Edwards
AdamCB ?/May/13 AltLd

With Nick Morphet, great route

Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
Andy Chadwick ??/2013 -
andybirtwistle ??/2013 -
Monkey_Alan 03/Jun/12 Lead O/S

Moved together in big boots with one belay at the foot of the chimney. Nice climbing throughout.

tomshanti 03/Jun/12 AltLd O/S

moved together,climbed in big belay under main chimney.finished direct up the chimney at Severe(last pitch of Sodom)as without guide book!

Mr Fuller 05/May/12 Lead O/S

In big boots and with three quickdraws it felt a bit run-out.

bigredsquirrel 05/May/12 2nd
Theeni 07/Apr/12 AltLd

Good route, terrible walk in!

with Matt Kemp
tobyk 30/Mar/12 Lead O/S

First pitch Rib and wall, and on from the first belay on new west.

with Emma Akam
Hidden 14/Jan/12 AltLd O/S
tapley ??/2012 -
Callum Anderson ??/2012 -
JonG ??/2012 -
Stone Idle ??/2012 -
Hidden 29/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 04/Sep/11 AltLd O/S
Ste Ridd 04/Sep/11 AltLd

Damp and slimy all the way which provided an excellent chimney crux.

Danny Crump 05/Aug/11 Lead
with John Andrews
Gary A S 30/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
with JB
Hidden 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S
Will Hunt 04/Jun/11 AltLd O/S

In two pitches on a more direct variation. Led from ground to junction with Rib and Slab.

Roger Cruse 30/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
with Kris & Mark
Mark Young 30/Apr/11 AltLd
Hidden 24/Apr/11 AltLd O/S
Simon Caldwell 26/Mar/11 AltLd rpt

I led the first 2 pitches in one, and the chimney/traverse pitch, ie the same as last time, oops. Even better than I remember it.

with Rob
lithos 26/Mar/11 -

bit chilly !

with Simon C
brianrunner ??/2011 -
bsmedz ??/2011 -
rurp ??/2011 Lead
bullybones ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 11/Oct/10 AltLd O/S
electriclinz 09/Oct/10 AltLd
with Robert
Diggler 04/Jul/10 Lead O/S

Moving together less than in 35 minutes.

with andyob
Raggar 23/Jun/10 AltLd
with Ian M, Jon B
Spade 19/Jun/10 AltLd
with Jim Turner
Margaret 19/Jun/10 2nd
with Cordelia
Hidden 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Caralynh 05/Jun/10 AltLd O/S
Peter Metcalfe 31/May/10 AltLd

Superb route. Easy to run first two guidebook pitches together, on third possibly continue to belay at chockstone 9m up chimney pitch, and from there lead through to the top - but that would miss the wonderful stance at the end of the traverse out of the chimney.

Stephen Halliday 15/May/10 Lead β
Finn Curry 15/May/10 2nd
jl 09/May/10 Solo O/S
with No Partner
Simon K 24/Apr/10 AltLd

Led 1st pitch only

with NE
sass ??/2010 -
munki1971 05/Oct/09 Lead O/S

First pitch felt damp so took a line further right near the VS route, before traversing left to pick up the correct route again.

dave josling ?/Oct/09 2nd
jimorothy 25/Aug/09 Lead

Fantastic, the traverse left to the chimney pitch is awesome. Well worth the epic hike from Buttermere on its own, let alone a tricky old chimney for fun and games... terrific.

with Rachel Crolla
nakedave 13/Jun/09 AltLd
tomhull 13/Jun/09 AltLd
alexanderpatton 24/May/09 Lead O/S

The chimney and the traverse just before it are the crux and definately vdiff in standard

alexkidgell 24/May/09 2nd O/S
Hidden 18/Apr/09 AltLd
masa-alpin 12/Apr/08 AltLd dog

It was snowing at 1 degree, when started climbing at 15:15. After her lead of P1, Claudia took a fall in P2 as she went off-route, and twisted a knee a little. I lead P3 at the last light, then we abseiled of Jordan Gap with a 50m single rope and pull cord for 2 pitches. Unfortunately the ropes got stuck after P2. We set up the pulley system and tried to release it for 2.5 hrs, but failed and so abandoned the ropes. Due to her injury it took 4 hours for us to descend to the carpark - 21 hours from carpark to carpark. Epic!

with Claudia
Rich Clague ?/Jan/08 Lead
Hidden ??/2008 Lead
Hidden 28/Aug/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
stewart murray ?/Jun/07 AltLd O/S
Hidden 26/May/07 AltLd
masa-alpin 26/May/07 AltLd O/S

I lead all but P2, Adam lead P2 and attempted to lead P4 first.

with Adam W
Hidden 05/May/07 Solo
Hidden 05/May/07 Solo
Simon Caldwell 29/Apr/07 AltLd O/S

In 4 pitches, guidebook pitches 1+2 combined. I led 1 and 3. Excellent stuff, even on the chimney pitch where I made the mistake of following the guidebook description instead of the polish...

with Carmen
d80f0u 14/Oct/06 AltLd dnf

Climbed 4 out of 5 pitches of what we thought was New West. Turned out we were wrong! Got into difficulty and had to self-rescue, abandoning a stuck rope in the process. A bit of an epic, all told.

with Alex
Hidden 10/Jun/06 Lead
abbeywall 03/Aug/05 AltLd
with K
Simon K 23/Apr/05 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 1-3. PR off route on last pitch.

with PR,JB
Steve Lenartowicz ??/2005 Lead
with Clare
AndyRitchie 10/Jul/04 2nd
with Roger Chaldecott
John Kettle ??/2004 AltLd
thegoatstroker ??/2004 -
with Chris Cox
pigeonjim ??/2004 AltLd O/S
biggianthead 19/Apr/03 -
with T
Hidden 18/Apr/03 AltLd O/S
Fatherof2 ?/Jun/02 AltLd
with John
Neil Henson ??/2002 2nd

What an epic. Started pouring with rain at the top of the first pitch and didn't stop for the rest of the day. After several failed attempts to find the way off we got benighted. I spent the night removing slugs from my rucksack. A great learning experience. Good route though. Some very exposed belays.

with Mark Collins
Mark Collins ??/2002 AltLd
with Neil Henson
Hidden ?/Jun/01 -
Hidden 06/May/00 AltLd O/S
Hidden ??/2000 -
bullybones ??/2000 -
ColdAndWet ??/1998 Lead
rob k 06/Apr/97 AltLd O/S
kevp ?/Aug/95 Lead O/S
with Mike Vogler
Tenko ?/Jun/95 -
with Kev Wilson
Ian Archer 21/Aug/94 Lead O/S

bivi below route. A bit wet and slimy to start but improving a lot as we got further up. Really good route.

with Paola Parenti
Hidden ?/Aug/93 2nd
biggianthead ?/Jun/93 -
with T
Hidden ??/1992 AltLd
Rog Wilko 16/Jun/90 AltLd
with Debbie Wilkinson
andyfeds ??/1990 AltLd
with Andy C
johnkeith ??/1990 -
with Brenda Callander
Martin Bennett 27/May/89 -
with Tim, RA
Andy Say 22/Aug/88 Solo
MoWalker3 01/Jul/87 AltLd
Hammy 05/Jun/87 Solo
lithos ??/1987 Lead
with dave stokes
Hidden 10/Jun/82 Lead
biggianthead ?/Jun/82 -
with G
99bolivar ??/1982 -
Tom V ??/1980 -
Bob M ?/Aug/78 -
with Roy Fisher
RichardMc 25/May/76 AltLd
with Dave Langmead
Chris Craggs ??/1975 -
Hidden ??/1974 AltLd
Hidden 14/Apr/71 AltLd O/S
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Votes cast 26
Votes cast 27
Style of ascent
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