New West Climb*** VD
[checking gear, pitch 3, new west pillar, 3 kb]No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Classic Rock, UK's best Diffs and V.diffs, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain.

Photo: checking gear, pitch 3, new west pillar © topcat65
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 128 logbooks, and on 81 wishlists.

JohnBear - Solo - 26/Aug/14

jon59 - 22/Jul/14

KevB - AltLd O/S - 22/Jul/14 with Jon Evans

sprout3099 - Lead - 25/Jun/14 with Becky Wood

Remarkably steep and sustained for its grade! Can't think of anything in Wales or Scotland that compares. Up New West, down Old, up Rib and Slab, down Slab and Notch. A great morning out.
alan moore - Solo - 22/Jun/14

petegunn - AltLd - 20/Jun/14 with Davina

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/14

Nigel Bond - Lead - 14/Jun/14 with Colin Hutton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/14

Great route, ran first 3 pitches together. Matt had the chimney, lovely thrutch-fest! Great expedition feel ending on top of a pinnacle and abbing off, great fun.
Martin Davies - AltLd O/S - 01/Jun/14 with Matt Harris

Hidden - Lead O/S - 17/May/14

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14

Either climbed as a second or as the third with Geoff. Climb made difficult by us climbing up with daysacks. Brutal walk in but wirth it for the climb.
alikirk - 2nd O/S - 17/May/14 with Richard Goodbody

nj.harris - 2014

long walk in, great climb.
j.buckley87 - Lead O/S - 12/Oct/13

Excellent! One of the best mountain routes I've been on. Linked P1 and 2 together to save a bit of time. Difficult chimney on P4. Some brilliant positions.
MikeLell - Lead O/S - 14/Sep/13 with Emma Parkinson

Hidden - Lead - 04/Sep/13

I led P1 and P2 together and P4, Ian led P3 and P5 together.
Darrell Read - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/13 with Ian Johnson

Graham Westbrook - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/13

Slick - AltLd - 08/Jun/13 with Kevin Vans-Colina, Isabel Evans

Hidden - AltLd - 08/Jun/13

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jun/13

xusa - 2nd O/S - Jun/13

Overrated...two classic rock routes that overlap...contrived. Rib & slab much more enjoyable.
beds74 - Lead - 26/May/13 with Rebecca Edwards

With Nick Morphet, great route
AdamCB - AltLd - May/13

Hidden - 2013

Andy Chadwick - 2013

Andy Chadwick - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

Moved together in big boots with one belay at the foot of the chimney. Nice climbing throughout.
Monkey_Alan - Lead O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Lawrence Dudley

moved together,climbed in big boots.one belay under main chimney.finished direct up the chimney at Severe(last pitch of Sodom)as without guide book!
tomshanti - AltLd O/S - 03/Jun/12 with Max Streeton

In big boots and with three quickdraws it felt a bit run-out.
Mr Fuller - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Ben Lewis, Dave Williamson

bigredsquirrel - 2nd - 05/May/12 with Mr Fuller

Good route, terrible walk in!
Theeni - AltLd - 07/Apr/12 with Matt Kemp

First pitch Rib and wall, and on from the first belay on new west.
tobyk - Lead O/S - 30/Mar/12 with Emma Akam

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/12

tapley - 2012

tapley - 2012

Callum Anderson - 2012

JonG - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Sep/11

Damp and slimy all the way which provided an excellent chimney crux.
moose ridd - AltLd - 04/Sep/11 with M.Sadler

Danny Crump - Lead - 05/Aug/11 with John Andrews

Gary A S - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/11 with JB

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11

In two pitches on a more direct variation. Led from ground to junction with Rib and Slab.
Will Hunt - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/11 with Dan Matthewman

Roger Cruse - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Kris & Mark

myoung - AltLd - 30/Apr/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Apr/11

I led the first 2 pitches in one, and the chimney/traverse pitch, ie the same as last time, oops. Even better than I remember it.
Simon Caldwell - AltLd rpt - 26/Mar/11 with Rob

bit chilly !
lithos - 26/Mar/11 with Simon C

brianrunner - 2011

bsmedz - 2011

rurp - Lead - 2011

bullybones - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Oct/10

electriclinz - AltLd - 09/Oct/10 with Robert

Moving together less than in 35 minutes.
Diggler - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/10 with andyob

Raggar - AltLd - 23/Jun/10 with Ian M, Jon B

Spade - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Jim Turner

Hidden - 2nd - 19/Jun/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10

Caralynh - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with Jez Hadall

Superb route. Easy to run first two guidebook pitches together, on third possibly continue to belay at chockstone 9m up chimney pitch, and from there lead through to the top - but that would miss the wonderful stance at the end of the traverse out of the chimney.
Peter Metcalfe - AltLd - 31/May/10 with Cath Sullivan

Stephen Halliday - Lead β - 15/May/10 with Finn Curry

Finn Curry - 2nd - 15/May/10 with Stephen Halliday

jl - Solo O/S - 09/May/10 with No Partner

Led 1st pitch only
Simon K - AltLd - 24/Apr/10 with NE

sass - 2010

Hidden - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/09

dave josling - 2nd - Oct/09

Fantastic, the traverse left to the chimney pitch is awesome. Well worth the epic hike from Buttermere on its own, let alone a tricky old chimney for fun and games... terrific.
jimorothy - Lead - 25/Aug/09 with Rachel Crolla

nakedave - AltLd - 13/Jun/09 with Tom Hull

tomhull - AltLd - 13/Jun/09 with dave thornley

The chimney and the traverse just before it are the crux and definately vdiff in standard
alexanderpatton - Lead O/S - 24/May/09 with Alex Kidgell

alexkidgell - 2nd O/S - 24/May/09 with Alex Patton

Hidden - AltLd - 18/Apr/09

It was snowing at 1 degree, when started climbing at 15:15. After her lead of P1, Claudia took a fall in P2 as she went off-route, and twisted a knee a little. I lead P3 at the last light, then we abseiled of Jordan Gap with a 50m single rope and pull cord for 2 pitches. Unfortunately the ropes got stuck after P2. We set up the pulley system and tried to release it for 2.5 hrs, but failed and so abandoned the ropes. Due to her injury it took 4 hours for us to descend to the carpark - 21 hours from carpark to carpark. Epic!
masa-alpin - AltLd dog - 12/Apr/08 with Claudia

Rich Clague - Lead - Jan/08

Hidden - Lead - 2008

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - 26/May/07

Hidden - Solo - 05/May/07

Hidden - Solo - 05/May/07

In 4 pitches, guidebook pitches 1+2 combined. I led 1 and 3. Excellent stuff, even on the chimney pitch where I made the mistake of following the guidebook description instead of the polish...
Simon Caldwell - AltLd O/S - 29/Apr/07 with Carmen

Climbed 4 out of 5 pitches of what we thought was New West. Turned out we were wrong! Got into difficulty and had to self-rescue, abandoning a stuck rope in the process. A bit of an epic, all told.
d80f0u - AltLd dnf - 14/Oct/06 with Alex

Hidden - Lead - 10/Jun/06

abbeywall - AltLd - 03/Aug/05 with K

Led pitch 1-3. PR off route on last pitch.
Simon K - AltLd O/S - 23/Apr/05 with PR,JB

Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 2005 with Clare

AndyRitchie - 2nd - 10/Jul/04 with Roger Chaldecott

John Kettle - AltLd - 2004

Hidden - 2004

biggianthead - 19/Apr/03 with T

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/03

Fatherof2 - AltLd - Jun/02 with John

What an epic. Started pouring with rain at the top of the first pitch and didn't stop for the rest of the day. After several failed attempts to find the way off we got benighted. I spent the night removing slugs from my rucksack. A great learning experience. Good route though. Some very exposed belays.
Neil Henson - 2nd - 2002 with Mark Collins

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/May/00

Hidden - 2000

bullybones - 2000

ColdAndWet - Lead - 1998

rob k - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/97

kevp - Lead O/S - Aug/95 with Mike Vogler

Tenko - Jun/95 with Kev Wilson

bivi below route. A bit wet and slimy to start but improving a lot as we got further up. Really good route.
Ian Archer - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/94 with Paola Parenti

Hidden - 2nd - Aug/93

biggianthead - Jun/93 with T

Hidden - AltLd - 1992

Rog Wilko - AltLd - 16/Jun/90 with Debbie Wilkinson

andyfeds - AltLd - 1990 with Andy C

Hidden - 1990

Andy Say - Solo - 22/Aug/88

MoWalker3 - AltLd - 01/Jul/87

Hammy - Solo - 05/Jun/87

lithos - Lead - 1987 with dave stokes

JohnHutch - Lead - 10/Jun/82 with HRB

biggianthead - Jun/82 with G

99bolivar - 1982

Tom V - 1980

Hidden - Aug/78

RichardMc - AltLd - 25/May/76 with Dave Langmead

Chris Craggs - 1975

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1974 with Gary Standige

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Apr/71

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Max Clarke, ruthea99, Joe_1102, j.buckley87, humptydumpty, Ab Wilson, Paul_scott89, annastudholme, aldo56, Simonpeel, Stuart Hurworth, cballard, jhs3jtmh, Gav Parker, David Wynne, CM1992, BelleVedere, Ann S, Jimb0, melmyo, jimmac, David Smith, pc1983, Nicholas Livesey, chrisjacks, Chris Holliday, teh_mark, Sianny, le_grimpeur, fleapitfan, Conor1, JackPott, stouffer, markhammonds, Porridge the climber, CathS, Nicholas Livesey, Bradders, pldarch, cayteye, Ezy Ryder, mourndekai, Rocktart, Abu777, grumsta, Badam, bluebrad

Voting
Total votes cast 45
hard HVD0 of 22
HVD1 of 22
easy HVD2 of 22
hard VD4 of 22
VD13 of 22
easy VD1 of 22
hard HD1 of 22
HD0 of 22
easy HD0 of 22
3 Stars20 of 23
2 Stars3 of 23
1 Star0 of 23
0 Stars0 of 23
Bag of .....0 of 23
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Style of ascent

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