UKC

10m.

Rockfax Description
The direct on Slab and Crack has a long reach and tough pull. © Rockfax

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User Date Notes
tomthetraddad 8 Apr, 2021 Show βeta
βeta: Mega route, big reach over the lip is pretty steady. Good contender for a first HVS if you're lanky
βeta?
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βeta: Mega route, big reach over the lip is pretty steady. Good contender for a first HVS if you're lanky
Paul Morley 1 Sep, 2020 Show βeta
βeta: Agreed with the last. The start is an exercise in trusting your shoes. The slight overhang is difficult if you can't reach. The alternate is to head left to near the grassy shelf and then climb the arete. Being able to do the splits helps.
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βeta: Agreed with the last. The start is an exercise in trusting your shoes. The slight overhang is difficult if you can't reach. The alternate is to head left to near the grassy shelf and then climb the arete. Being able to do the splits helps.
Duncan Bourne 7 Sep, 2019 Show βeta
βeta: It is no secret that the crux of the route is the long reach over the overlap. Making it the difference between a straightforward 4c for the tall to a 5a or impossible for the short (ape index matters). For me it is the latter (impossible) so I would grade slinking off to the left as a HS 4a/b alternate.
Show beta
βeta: It is no secret that the crux of the route is the long reach over the overlap. Making it the difference between a straightforward 4c for the tall to a 5a or impossible for the short (ape index matters). For me it is the latter (impossible) so I would grade slinking off to the left as a HS 4a/b alternate.

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Voting
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
High HS
Mid HS
Low HS
Votes cast 22
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
High 4b
Mid 4b
Low 4b
Votes cast 21
Votes cast 20
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Soloed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
DNF
Flashed (β)
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Lean Man's Superdirect

Grade: VS 5a ***
(Black Rocks)

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