Restricted Access
The main Woodwell crag is unrestricted. The National Trust have recently joined in partnership with the BMC to reinstate access to three bouldering areas on Woodwell O'ert Road on a trial basis: Wolf Buttress, Troll Buttress and Cave Buttress. Climbers are welcome to come and enjoy the bouldering on the three designated areas but please observe the following conditions when visiting: 1. For ecological reasons, bouldering is only permitted on the three designated areas. Climbers should not proceed past Cave Buttress - this will be marked with a sign. 2. Dogs are not allowed. 3. Climbers must not enter the field directly below the rock.
A sickeningly hard problem climbing the roof at the center of the crag. From two reasonable holds at the back of the roof pull on and reach up to one of two pathetic side by side crimps with your right hand, get in a heel toe next to your left hand, then bring your left hand up next to your right. Now a sick hard span with your left may or may not allow you to catch the lip, if so bring your right hand to the lip and continue up the headwall!
John Gaskins.
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