UKC

Sit start at the lowest point of the suspended roof of the home rule boulder. Climb the lip problem rightwards and then follow a line of good but spaced holds into the cave, on the side of a hanging prow (its difficult to avoid brushing the adjacent boulder for a move at one point). From a bat hang rest at the spiky jug, follow a line of small holds back right across the roof to gain the Mugsy cave start.

Dave MacLeod Mar/2007.

Ticklists

Scotland's 100 Hardest Boulders , Scottish 8th Grade Problems , The Top 100 Boulder Problems in Scotland 7A or Harder

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Guidebooks for Dumbarton Rock

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High f8B
Mid f8B
Low f8B
High f8A+
Mid f8A+
Low f8A+
High f8A
Mid f8A
Low f8A
Route of Interest
The Serum of Sisyphus

Grade: f8A+ ***
(Dumbarton Rock)

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