Terray-Rebuffat*** ED2
[Having fun (not!) on the Terray-Rebuffat , N Face of Pelerins, 3 kb][Damilano - V 5 M; AC - ED2] A superb route that had become a classic of its type. It finishes at the Col des Pelerins (3275m) between the Pointe des Pelerins and the Aiguille des Pelerins. The route follows a rightward-leaning line of ramps and ice-filled corners. Climb the wall to the right of the gully (possible serac fall). Climb directly up a short wall (5c, delicate mixed, snow-plastered rock) and further rock (50m) to snow slopes. Follow these up right (100m) to the first step. Climb a series of gullies (110m, 75º, to reach main snow field. Trend rightward across this to the base to a line of chimneys and corners (60m). Climb these in SEVEN 60m pitches to the Col des Pelerins. P1 - up; P2 - up, then trend left 10m; P3 - up, bolt, then crux mixed step right and up; P4 - up, then exit R onto small snowfield; P5 - up snowfield, then steep mixed chimney; P6 - shorter pitch, continue up chimney then step R; P7 - thin groove to obvious roof, then pendulum L, up. Abseil down route or descend SW face.
Rebuffat & Terray 10/Aug/1944; Rab Carrington & Al Rouse as an ice route 7-8 Feb 1975

Photo: Having fun (not!) on the Terray-Rebuffat , N Face of Pelerins © TonyM
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This climb is in 19 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Lots of powder on approach and on the climb slowed us down a lot, coupled with a bit of a casual start from the bivvy at the mid-station ended in us bailing at about halfway. A pity as it is a beautiful route in great setting. Got back to the valley at half 8 for much needed pizza!
James S - AltLd dnf - 23/Oct/14 with geoff, dan

Hidden - AltLd - 12/Feb/14

joelevanschamonix - 2nd dnf - 20/Oct/13 with Tom Grant

Awesome! Stayed in the winter room of the Plan De L'Aiguille Refuge, up and down to Chamonix in 10 hours. Great conditions, tonnes of névé (except on the hard bits) and a great route. Decided to climb the thin ice goulotte left of the pendulum pitch as it looked inviting. Even got some powder turns on the descent.
Fultonius - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Andy Inglis

Great powder descent, route was pretty good too, with tricky climbing (scottish VI,6) in the last few pitches.
andyinglis - AltLd O/S - 05/Apr/13 with Ally Fulton

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Mar/13

amazing route
jamesturnbull - AltLd - Mar/13 with rich howells, aiden

Excellent conditions, with abundant and bomber neve which allowed us to move together for long sections and top out in 5:05. That said, we managed to go left after P3 for 2 pitches, then rappelled back onto the route, which we rejoined via 1P of interesting mixed. A nice variant all things considered! The final pitch was made easier by the fact that the normally bald slab which presents the famous leftward traverse, had some ice on it. We rappelled the entirety of the route. Care on the rappels as some anchors need to be reinforced especially the penultimate one.
John Carney - 25/Nov/12 with Adam George

Hidden - 30/Oct/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Oct/12

Not sure how far we climbed up but got stuck well into the top pitches, maybe up to the pendulum? Super dry and decided to back off from that point. Ab'd route
stuart34 - AltLd O/S - 10/Mar/11 with John Healy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/11

Dave Searle - AltLd - Oct/10 with gav

Hidden - AltLd β - 29/Mar/07

frost - AltLd - Mar/07 with N Griffiths

Bailed before the col. Blown out by heavy spindrift. simon hurt ankle / knee in fall. Grand day out.
NeilGriffiths - Mar/07 with Simon Frost

Serac fall right in front of us at beginning of climb put us off...probably off the route for good.
Yyonnx - AltLd dnf - 12/Feb/06 with Rob Jarvis

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/02

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/00

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexm198, Hanakin, Timothy Miller, Tom Livingstone, James S, Ben Briggs, JDSwain
Total votes cast 7
hard ED30 of 3
ED30 of 3
easy ED30 of 3
hard ED20 of 3
ED22 of 3
easy ED20 of 3
hard ED11 of 3
ED10 of 3
easy ED10 of 3
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