[Damilano - V 5 M; AC - ED2] A superb route that had become a classic of its type. It finishes at the Col des Pelerins (3275m) between the Pointe des Pelerins and the Aiguille des Pelerins. The route follows a rightward-leaning line of ramps and ice-filled corners. Climb the wall to the right of the gully (possible serac fall). Climb directly up a short wall (5c, delicate mixed, snow-plastered rock) and further rock (50m) to snow slopes. Follow these up right (100m) to the first step. Climb a series of gullies (110m, 75º, to reach main snow field. Trend rightward across this to the base to a line of chimneys and corners (60m). Climb these in SEVEN 60m pitches to the Col des Pelerins. P1 - up; P2 - up, then trend left 10m; P3 - up, bolt, then crux mixed step right and up; P4 - up, then exit R onto small snowfield; P5 - up snowfield, then steep mixed chimney; P6 - shorter pitch, continue up chimney then step R; P7 - thin groove to obvious roof, then pendulum L, up. Abseil down route or descend SW face.

Rebuffat & Terray 10/Aug/1944; Rab Carrington & Al Rouse as an ice route 7-8 Feb 1975

Hidden 10/Nov AltLd O/S
wi11 02/Nov AltLd O/S
with Tim Blakemore, Louisa Reynolds
Hidden 23/Oct AltLd
alexm198 23/Oct AltLd O/S

Think Lindsay Griffin was on crack when he claimed this was ED2. In good icy nick at the moment, so climbing is straightforward but rather bold. An easily missed rightwards traverse on P4 resulted in some scary off-route escapades. Freed the pendulum.

James S 23/Oct/14 AltLd dnf

Lots of powder on approach and on the climb slowed us down a lot, coupled with a bit of a casual start from the bivvy at the mid-station ended in us bailing at about halfway. A pity as it is a beautiful route in great setting. Got back to the valley at half 8 for much needed pizza!

with geoff, dan
Hidden 12/Feb/14 AltLd
joelevanschamonix 20/Oct/13 2nd dnf


with Tom Grant
Fultonius 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Awesome! Stayed in the winter room of the Plan De L'Aiguille Refuge, up and down to Chamonix in 10 hours. Great conditions, tonnes of névé (except on the hard bits) and a great route. Decided to climb the thin ice goulotte left of the pendulum pitch as it looked inviting. Even got some powder turns on the descent.

andyinglis 05/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Great powder descent, route was pretty good too, with tricky climbing (scottish VI,6) in the last few pitches.

Hidden 09/Mar/13 AltLd
jamesturnbull ?/Mar/13 AltLd

amazing route

with rich howells, aiden
John Carney 25/Nov/12 -

Excellent conditions, with abundant and bomber neve which allowed us to move together for long sections and top out in 5:05. That said, we managed to go left after P3 for 2 pitches, then rappelled back onto the route, which we rejoined via 1P of interesting mixed. A nice variant all things considered! The final pitch was made easier by the fact that the normally bald slab which presents the famous leftward traverse, had some ice on it. We rappelled the entirety of the route. Care on the rappels as some anchors need to be reinforced especially the penultimate one.

with Adam George
Hidden 30/Oct/12 -
Hidden 06/Oct/12 AltLd O/S
stuart34 10/Mar/11 AltLd O/S

Not sure how far we climbed up but got stuck well into the top pitches, maybe up to the pendulum? Super dry and decided to back off from that point. Ab'd route

with John Healy
Hidden 14/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
Dave Searle ?/Oct/10 AltLd
with gav
Hidden 29/Mar/07 AltLd β
frost ?/Mar/07 AltLd
with N Griffiths
NeilGriffiths ?/Mar/07 -

Bailed before the col. Blown out by heavy spindrift. simon hurt ankle / knee in fall. Grand day out.

with Simon Frost
Yyonnx 12/Feb/06 AltLd dnf

Serac fall right in front of us at beginning of climb put us off...probably off the route for good.

Hidden ?/Oct/02 AltLd
Hidden ?/Jan/00 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
alexm198, Hidden, Hidden, Hanakin, Hidden, Hidden, Timothy Miller, Tom Livingstone, James S, Ben Briggs, JDSwain
High ED3
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High ED2
Mid ED2
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High ED1
Mid ED1
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Votes cast 4
Votes cast 5
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
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