Pyramid Gully** IV 5
[Dean Russle on Pyramid Gully, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
Another classic gully climb with some excellent ice on the first two pitches
1) 5, 45m. Climb the steep ice-pitch to the snow ledge and belay on the left
2) 4, 35m. Climb the icefall to the easing in angle, exit right onto the snow slope
3) 1, 120m. Easily up the snow to finish. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Dean Russle on Pyramid Gully ©
View all 5 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 60 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Bit thin on the first pitch making it more challenging. Lovely second pitch with an easy finish.
Palindrome - 2nd O/S - 30/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13

Climbed the ice pitches of pyramid gully and Carl finished up the mixed arÍte on the right. Far better than battle the powder slopes higher up. I've was in good nick.
kenneM - AltLd - 22/Jan/13 with Carl Davies

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/11

bullwinkle - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Bart

Went to do Gallipoli but not in winter nick. Misha did 1st pitch, steep and narrow at top.I did 2nd pitch - 1st time on Vipers, really good 4. Top pitch long plod up icy steps and neve.Topped out 5pm in dark.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with misha

Had hoped to do Gallipolli but it wasn't looking wintery (just frosty frozen turf) and the ice pitch at the start was missing, so left it for a better day. Pyramid Gully proved to be a good choice. I led P1, which featured dinnerplating ice on the steep section (was trying to create my own axe placements) and generally good footholds. The real challenge was the exit from the steep section as this was pretty thin and the ice was brittle. A bit worrying until I got a very good hook in a crack, which also took a number 1 nut. Very different and, from what I recall, harder than when I did it with Tom last March. Good 4 or easy 5. Phil led P4 up friendlier angled, generally plastic ice, good 3 or easy 4. Followed Adam and Tom, who had a bit more time and did a couple of mixed pitches to the right of the finishing slog. Only started the route at 2.15, topped out at 5.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Phil

Finished up a buttress right of the gully after the first two pitches. Gave 2 more pitches of sustained mixed climbing rather than plodding up the rest of the gully which looked pretty easy from there on. Definitely recommended!
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 08/Jan/11 with Tom Jumar

Started up iced slabs of Eastern gully inadvertantly in the mist and had to traverse back over to initial ice pillar. Ice was brittle and at top of the pillar a bit rotten which made the final moves up quite delicate. Really nice route despite this. I'd give first steep ice pitch scottish V.
Andrew Sloan - AltLd O/S - 07/Jan/11 with Steve Grove

P1 had fallen apart at top of steep section (scary), P2 was in great condition and was a pleasure.
wolf.leeb - AltLd O/S - 06/Jan/11 with nic

Two cracking ice pitches, the crag to ourselves and blue skies...ace.
Owain Llewelyn - Lead - 05/Jan/11 with Dad

mynyddresident - AltLd - 05/Jan/11 with wolf

Luke Brooks - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Solo O/S - 15/Dec/10

ian1234567 - Lead O/S - 13/Dec/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10

Gustav - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Matt G

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Mar/10

Hidden - Lead - 08/Mar/10

Got to the crag quite late after walking in from Ogwen via a route in Cwm Lloer, so decided to do something quick and easy. Tom led first pitch, which had a short steep step. I did the second pitch, which had a longer but easier angled ice section. Would have been very nice if it hadn't been so chopped up. Tom led through up the easy snow and we moved together for a bit to get to the top. Nice enough route for a short outing.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Tom

philboy - AltLd - 07/Mar/10 with will

uphillnow - AltLd - 06/Mar/10

Excellent route, conditions and curry. Lead pitch 2
jcurley - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/10 with Mike Buddle

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/10

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Feb/10

Climbed down easy top section and then back up to the plateau. Unsuccessful attempt to find an ice screw I left at the belay a few days before. Found an offset nut though.
MikeLell - Solo - 25/Feb/10

Led 2nd ice pitch, moved together in the top section. First grade IV and a great route!
MikeLell - AltLd O/S - 22/Feb/10

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Feb/10

Gethin and Gareth also with us, climbing as a pair
RachelP - 2nd - 21/Feb/10 with Jamie

Poor visiblity, britle ice and heaps of spindrift. A perfect welsh day!
vincentvega - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/10 with danny robb

BorisVBlade - Lead O/S - 31/Jan/10 with Daniel Wong

Awesome conditions. Lots of spindrift.
thecurlyone - AltLd O/S - 31/Jan/10 with Bernard Lam

Hidden - 30/Jan/10

al99 - AltLd O/S - 10/Jan/10 with Luke Thomas

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/10

I took the second pitch. Not a bad route, awkward crux
Alex Mason - AltLd O/S - 04/Jan/10 with Thomas Martin

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/10

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Jan/10

Proper winter conditions, spin drift and all. Led 2nd pitch. Camped at the base of the cliff that night.
Cardi - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/10 with Steve B

In the dark
MBrear - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/10

ian1234567 - Lead O/S - 2010

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Dec/09

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Feb/09

Good route to finish a great day!
nicholas Barrowclough - AltLd O/S - 21/Mar/06 with Rob Greenwood

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Mar/06

Tom M Williams - AltLd O/S - 03/Mar/06 with Britney/beermonkey

one year on from the first time i did this route and conditions nearly identical, fantastic weather and some good ice, a great day out again.
beermonkey - AltLd - 03/Mar/06 with Tom

Ian McNeill - 2006

GuyM - 2006 with ric

Amazing conditions, v.thick ice perfect weather and a final belay in the sunshine stripped to my baselayer! Possibly THE perfect winter day!
beermonkey - AltLd - Mar/05 with andy

Hidden - AltLd - Mar/05

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/00

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - 1996

NickJH - 2nd dog - Feb/91 with JThomas

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jan/86

Tim Sparrow - AltLd - 1986 with Ian Owen

neilh - AltLd - 27/Jan/85 with simon webster

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adamre12, iksander, CM1992, Joss, groovy_nut, Mike Parker

Total votes cast 76
hard V0 of 26
V0 of 26
easy V2 of 26
hard IV5 of 26
IV14 of 26
easy IV5 of 26
hard III0 of 26
III0 of 26
easy III0 of 26
hard 60 of 25
60 of 25
easy 60 of 25
hard 51 of 25
510 of 25
easy 55 of 25
hard 49 of 25
40 of 25
easy 40 of 25
3 Stars3 of 25
2 Stars19 of 25
1 Star3 of 25
0 Stars0 of 25
Bag of .....0 of 25
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