Rockfax Description
The deep gully gives a tremendous winter adventure with a desperate section
1) 3, 60m. Climb ice directly below the gully
2) 2, 30m. Follow the snow slope to the gully
3) 3, 25m. Gain the gully via a steep icy section, tough in lean conditions
4) 1, 40m. Follow the snow gully to a cave
5) 5, 45m. Exit the cave direct, or in lean conditions this can be skirted on the left
6) 2, 120m. Romp up the upper gully. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cave pitch rarely climbed direct (requires well banking with snow). Variation pitch traverses L along ledges to arete; up a wide groove to easy groung; then, swing back into gully bed, rejoining above cave

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Misha 07/Feb Lead O/S
with Pete
Monkey_Alan 07/Feb AltLd O/S

Fantastic day! A couple of good ice steps (a touch thin at the top of the first), then easy snow up to the cave. Took the easier variation around the cave (via a very awkward chimney) then mostly easy snow above.

with Seb Lee
cymjt 22/Jan Lead O/S

P2 and 5 then moved together to the top! Conditions just about ok. Lean ice but lots of loose snow. Topped out in darkness. Amazing weather, not a breath of wind and no cloud. 13.5 hour day...

Mr. K 22/Jan AltLd O/S

Lean conditions, climbed the alternative pitches to pitch one and the cave pitch. An amazing day out with great weather and good company.

with Dan Lane
Nick Biven ??/2014 -
MPSBunny 06/Apr/13 AltLd O/S

Headed up to do Gallipoli, (John lead the initial ice fall) but could decide which grove to take for the third pitch and when a big chunk of ice peeled off the rock when John tried to move off the belay made the decision for us and we abseiled off a gold Black Diamond hex into Central Gully. John lead a snow pitch in the gully and I took the lead over the large chockstone. Was an absolute beast requiring some bridging on a tiny ledge and turf. Thank god for a well placed hex and dodgy bulldog. Belayed off two warthogs and we swung leads until John topped out. The crux moves were harder than the grades on UKC!

Brannock 06/Apr/13 AltLd

Headed up this after route finding and conditions issues on Gallipoli, I led first ice fall, Ben led over chock stone. Grade III 5? Only two real pitches (1st ice fall and chock stone), chock stone crux hard but safe.

Lxaddison 29/Mar/13 2nd O/S

Snow not in great condition due to now thaw and refreeze. Swam up the snow in the gulley to where we thought the cave was meant to be... Cave not found, climbed left of large snow banking as impossible to pass in conditions, dry tooled up a steep corner, extremely tough (~V 6??). Finished up more snow, slightly better formed. Great mountain day though.

with Paul Addison
Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
Hidden 29/Mar/13 AltLd O/S
BenRyle 05/Dec/12 AltLd O/S

1st Pitch wasn't in so a crappy alternative was done instead. Awesome route though :)

with Gunz
Tom Seccombe 05/Dec/12 AltLd O/S
with BenRyle
Hidden ??/2012 -
Hidden ?/Jan/11 AltLd
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Alex Thompson 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Alt (easier) start as approached above ice pitch... cave pitch wasn't in condition, I lead traverse pitch (took fall heading up a hard corner too early...) to arete (45m in itself), Haydn took pitch back into gully. Swimming through powdery snow up the gully to top climbing together. Fun, but could have been better conditions...

Hardonicus 05/Dec/10 AltLd O/S
with Alex Thompson
gb83 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

i lead p1 with reasonable ice, masa p2. the crux cave pitch is nowhere near in condition so took the left traverse onto the arete up the groove (masa lead after i backed off) move together on final pitches to summit. lots of snow but not consolidated so made for very difficult progression. top out in the dark

with masa
masa-alpin 04/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Alternate lead (P1 lead by Graeme). The crux was not in condition, so we took the alternative way to the left (Graeme attempted to lead the second half of the crux pitch, namely the open groove, but backed off after a few metres by being lowered down, then I took over the lead using two pieces of gear left by him). Then we moved together to the top, where wading through the waist-deep powder snow was a labour... (and it snowed all day with almost no break). The ice in P1 was thick, accepting some screws, though melting rapidly on this day. It turned out to be a big and tiring, but enjoyable day.

Hidden 20/Feb/10 -
Hidden 13/Feb/10 2nd
Adam Booth 13/Feb/10 Lead O/S

No snow in cave pitch - climbed direct on patches of turf / mixed. Awesome pitch, nearly lobbed!

The Bad Cough 02/Jan/10 2nd

Knee deep powder for most of route, poor conditions and cave pitch not in

3kidsandanorton 02/Jan/10 2nd

Miserable conditions but enjoyed the first ice pitch

with Diccon Proctor, Pete Templar
nicholas Barrowclough 19/Mar/06 Solo O/S

Nice solo on a lovely day on the black ladders.

Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
Hidden ??/1996 Lead O/S
mark-abz ?/Feb/91 AltLd
with Andy W
Tim Sparrow ??/1986 -
neilh 19/Jan/85 Solo O/S
charlesmfrench 01/Jan/82 AltLd O/S


charlesmfrench 01/Jan/82 AltLd O/S


Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adamre12, Hidden, Hidden, iksander, FrankBooth, DannyK, CM1992, Hidden, Ewan Russell, theotherpetehill, Mike Parker
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