Central Gully** III 5
[Black Ladders in all its winter glory, 3 kb]

Rockfax Description
The deep gully gives a tremendous winter adventure with a desperate section
1) 3, 60m. Climb ice directly below the gully
2) 2, 30m. Follow the snow slope to the gully
3) 3, 25m. Gain the gully via a steep icy section, tough in lean conditions
4) 1, 40m. Follow the snow gully to a cave
5) 5, 45m. Exit the cave direct, or in lean conditions this can be skirted on the left
6) 2, 120m. Romp up the upper gully. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Cave pitch rarely climbed direct (requires well banking with snow). Variation pitch traverses L along ledges to arete; up a wide groove to easy groung; then, swing back into gully bed, rejoining above cave

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Photo: Black Ladders in all its winter glory © Babika
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 33 logbooks, and on 11 wishlists.

Misha - Lead O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Pete

Fantastic day! A couple of good ice steps (a touch thin at the top of the first), then easy snow up to the cave. Took the easier variation around the cave (via a very awkward chimney) then mostly easy snow above.
Monkey_Alan - AltLd O/S - 07/Feb/15 with Seb Lee

P2 and 5 then moved together to the top! Conditions just about ok. Lean ice but lots of loose snow. Topped out in darkness. Amazing weather, not a breath of wind and no cloud. 13.5 hour day...
cymjt - Lead O/S - 22/Jan/15 with Kyle Wood

Lean conditions, climbed the alternative pitches to pitch one and the cave pitch. An amazing day out with great weather and good company.
Mr. K - AltLd O/S - 22/Jan/15 with Dan Lane

Nick Biven - 2014

Headed up to do Gallipoli, (John lead the initial ice fall) but could decide which grove to take for the third pitch and when a big chunk of ice peeled off the rock when John tried to move off the belay made the decision for us and we abseiled off a gold Black Diamond hex into Central Gully. John lead a snow pitch in the gully and I took the lead over the large chockstone. Was an absolute beast requiring some bridging on a tiny ledge and turf. Thank god for a well placed hex and dodgy bulldog. Belayed off two warthogs and we swung leads until John topped out. The crux moves were harder than the grades on UKC!
MPSBunny - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with John Brannock

Headed up this after route finding and conditions issues on Gallipoli, I led first ice fall, Ben led over chock stone. Grade III 5? Only two real pitches (1st ice fall and chock stone), chock stone crux hard but safe.
Brannock - AltLd - 06/Apr/13

Snow not in great condition due to now thaw and refreeze. Swam up the snow in the gulley to where we thought the cave was meant to be... Cave not found, climbed left of large snow banking as impossible to pass in conditions, dry tooled up a steep corner, extremely tough (~V 6??). Finished up more snow, slightly better formed. Great mountain day though.
Lxaddison - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Paul Addison

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13

1st Pitch wasn't in so a crappy alternative was done instead. Awesome route though :)
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/12 with Gunz

Tom Seccombe - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/12 with BenRyle

Hidden - 2012

Hidden - AltLd - Jan/11

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Alt (easier) start as approached above ice pitch... cave pitch wasn't in condition, I lead traverse pitch (took fall heading up a hard corner too early...) to arete (45m in itself), Haydn took pitch back into gully. Swimming through powdery snow up the gully to top climbing together. Fun, but could have been better conditions...
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Haydn Martin

Hardonicus - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Alex Thompson

i lead p1 with reasonable ice, masa p2. the crux cave pitch is nowhere near in condition so took the left traverse onto the arete up the groove (masa lead after i backed off) move together on final pitches to summit. lots of snow but not consolidated so made for very difficult progression. top out in the dark
gb83 - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with masa

Alternate lead (P1 lead by Graeme). The crux was not in condition, so we took the alternative way to the left (Graeme attempted to lead the second half of the crux pitch, namely the open groove, but backed off after a few metres by being lowered down, then I took over the lead using two pieces of gear left by him). Then we moved together to the top, where wading through the waist-deep powder snow was a labour... (and it snowed all day with almost no break). The ice in P1 was thick, accepting some screws, though melting rapidly on this day. It turned out to be a big and tiring, but enjoyable day.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Graeme B

Hidden - 20/Feb/10

Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/10

No snow in cave pitch - climbed direct on patches of turf / mixed. Awesome pitch, nearly lobbed!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Tim Evans

Knee deep powder for most of route, poor conditions and cave pitch not in
The Bad Cough - 2nd - 02/Jan/10 with John Sealey, John Nesbitt

Miserable conditions but enjoyed the first ice pitch
3kidsandanorton - 2nd - 02/Jan/10 with Diccon Proctor, Pete Templar

Nice solo on a lovely day on the black ladders.
nicholas Barrowclough - Solo O/S - 19/Mar/06

Ian McNeill - 2006

Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996

mark-abz - AltLd - Feb/91 with Andy W

Tim Sparrow - 1986

neilh - Solo O/S - 19/Jan/85

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/82

charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/82

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
adamre12, iksander, FrankBooth, DannyK, CM1992, Ewan Russell, theotherpetehill, Mike Parker

Total votes cast 12
hard IV0 of 4
IV0 of 4
easy IV1 of 4
hard III2 of 4
III1 of 4
easy III0 of 4
hard II/III0 of 4
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easy II/III0 of 4
hard 60 of 4
60 of 4
easy 60 of 4
hard 50 of 4
50 of 4
easy 53 of 4
hard 41 of 4
40 of 4
easy 40 of 4
3 Stars4 of 4
2 Stars0 of 4
1 Star0 of 4
0 Stars0 of 4
Bag of .....0 of 4
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S