Headed up to do Gallipoli, (John lead the initial ice fall) but could decide which grove to take for the third pitch and when a big chunk of ice peeled off the rock when John tried to move off the belay made the decision for us and we abseiled off a gold Black Diamond hex into Central Gully.
John lead a snow pitch in the gully and I took the lead over the large chockstone. Was an absolute beast requiring some bridging on a tiny ledge and turf. Thank god for a well placed hex and dodgy bulldog. Belayed off two warthogs and we swung leads until John topped out.
The crux moves were harder than the grades on UKC!MPSBunny - AltLd O/S - 06/Apr/13 with John Brannock
Headed up this after route finding and conditions issues on Gallipoli, I led first ice fall, Ben led over chock stone. Grade III 5? Only two real pitches (1st ice fall and chock stone), chock stone crux hard but safe.
Brannock - AltLd - 06/Apr/13
Snow not in great condition due to now thaw and refreeze. Swam up the snow in the gulley to where we thought the cave was meant to be... Cave not found, climbed left of large snow banking as impossible to pass in conditions, dry tooled up a steep corner, extremely tough (~V 6??). Finished up more snow, slightly better formed. Great mountain day though.
Lxaddison - 2nd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with Paul Addison
So much snow!! the cave pitch was fully banked out with snow, we couldn't even get to it! so we took an alternative. the 3 grooves to the left. we climbed the furthest groove left and it felt about V 6. axe ripped from a placement but leash from the other axe held my fall!
Mr-Cowdrey - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with chris ridgers
Chris Ridgers - AltLd O/S - 29/Mar/13 with chris
1st Pitch wasn't in so a crappy alternative was done instead. Awesome route though :)
BenRyle - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/12 with Gunz
Tom Seccombe - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/12 with BenRyle
Hidden - 2012
Hidden - AltLd - Jan/11
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Alt (easier) start as approached above ice pitch... cave pitch wasn't in condition, I lead traverse pitch (took fall heading up a hard corner too early...) to arete (45m in itself), Haydn took pitch back into gully. Swimming through powdery snow up the gully to top climbing together. Fun, but could have been better conditions...
Alex Thompson - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Haydn Martin
Hardonicus - AltLd O/S - 05/Dec/10 with Alex Thompson
i lead p1 with reasonable ice, masa p2. the crux cave pitch is nowhere near in condition so took the left traverse onto the arete up the groove (masa lead after i backed off) move together on final pitches to summit. lots of snow but not consolidated so made for very difficult progression. top out in the dark
gb83 - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with masa
Alternate lead (P1 lead by Graeme). The crux was not in condition, so we took the alternative way to the left (Graeme attempted to lead the second half of the crux pitch, namely the open groove, but backed off after a few metres by being lowered down, then I took over the lead using two pieces of gear left by him). Then we moved together to the top, where wading through the waist-deep powder snow was a labour... (and it snowed all day with almost no break). The ice in P1 was thick, accepting some screws, though melting rapidly on this day. It turned out to be a big and tiring, but enjoyable day.
masa-alpin - AltLd O/S - 04/Dec/10 with Graeme B
Hidden - 20/Feb/10
Hidden - 2nd - 13/Feb/10
No snow in cave pitch - climbed direct on patches of turf / mixed. Awesome pitch, nearly lobbed!
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 13/Feb/10 with Tim Evans
Knee deep powder for most of route, poor conditions and cave pitch not in
The Bad Cough - 2nd - 02/Jan/10 with John Sealey, John Nesbitt
Miserable conditions but enjoyed the first ice pitch
3kidsandamortgage - 2nd - 02/Jan/10 with Diccon Proctor, Pete Templar
Nice solo on a lovely day on the black ladders.
nicholas Barrowclough - Solo O/S - 19/Mar/06
Ian McNeill - 2006
Hidden - Lead O/S - 1996
mark-abz - AltLd - Feb/91 with Andy W
Tim Sparrow - 1986
neilh - Solo O/S - 19/Jan/85
charlesmfrench - AltLd O/S - 01/Jan/82