Rockfax Description
Fantastic mid grade-ice climbing
1) 2, 45m. Climb easy ice to a steepening
2) 3, 45m. Follow more ice to a large ledge
3) 4, 45m. Climb the steep left-hand icefall to gain a large ledge
4) 3, 45m. Continue up a right facing groove to gain easy snowy ground
5) 3, 45m. Climb easy snow then pass a steeper bulge-section to gain the upper gully
6) 2, 120m. Aim up and left and follow steep snowy ground to the summit. © Rockfax

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

frost 12/Feb Solo


Hidden 07/Mar/13 Lead dnf
augustus trout 30/Jan/11 2nd dnf

quite lean but do'able gave up due to late start.

with Al Metelko
Hjort 09/Jan/11 AltLd O/S
with Nigel Milner
adie84 ??/2011 -
Luke Brooks ??/2011 -
PAJames ??/2011 -
HIGHTOWER 18/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Left hand. Two good, but poorly protected pitches, and a lot of swimming in snow. Good though.

with Dave Gleave
Adam Booth 18/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Major wade to the bottom. Variation first pitch, involving a slightly frightening unprotected turf corner (?V). Cracking route.

with Tom Jumar, Misha
Misha 18/Dec/10 2nd rpt

2.5hrs to slog through shin to knee deep fresh snow into the bowl below the crag - fortunately other teams had already broken trail but it wasn't a proper path. Met Rich Stone - think he said it was the hardest approach he's ever experienced. With tonnes of fresh snow, Icefall was one of the few routes going. Adam did a variation start to the right of P1, which had some good, bold mixed climbing and a worrying section of rotten snow ice which came away under Tom and me in large chunks, exposing rotting goo. Tom led P2, which had good ice. I 'led' the slog to the top. Good to get something done considering the conditions. Adam suggested walking off along the ridge, which seemed like a good idea but we ended up going too far left as visibility was poor and we didn't wanted to keep away from the crag. Eventually realised that we had dropped into the wrong valley to the left (looking out) of the ridge. Wasn't much of an issue though, just added a bit of time to the slog. Thanks to Tom for breaking trail most of the way.

with Adam Booth, Tom
Noodles 08/Dec/10 AltLd O/S

Great climb, first ascent this season?

Hidden 08/Dec/10 Lead
Misha 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Had hoped to do a big mixed route but turf was only half-frozen and snow wasn't frozen at all, so disintegrating ice was the only option. Phil led a nice pitch of IV just to the right of the direct start to Western Gully. A scrappy mixed pitch got us to the terrace. Three easy traversing pitches led right to the bottom of the main ice pitches of Icefall Gully, which were just about hanging on. Fairly easy climbing which felt quite serious due to often thin ice and little good gear - IV 3? Led first ice pitch, Phil did the second and after that we had three more pitches and some moving together over easy ground to emerge into a howling wind. Got a lift to Gerlan in the morning, so opted for a quick descent into Ogwen, then hitched to Capel and got a taxi back to Nant Peris from Plas-y-Brenin. Last Welsh winter route of the season - a pity, but what an amazing season it has been!

with Phil
philhilo 13/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Crag in clag. Did a very good ice pitch (although middle section collapsing), then mixed mushy veg pitch to get onto the terrace. Turf not consistantly frozen, thin ice gone so did three pitches traversing right (underneath Somme-disintegrating) to Icefall Gully. Bottom pitch a little suspect but second pitch fat, solid and excellent. Then 3 1/2 pitches of 'easy ground', boring! Topped out up vertical snow into dark icy maelstrom! Got off top as quick as poss.

with misha
Hidden 11/Mar/10 AltLd
ruaidh 07/Mar/10 AltLd O/S

Wonderful route. Beautiful alpine conditions. Steady grade IV all the way up, steepish P3, plenty of good ice.

with Zoe
kenneM ?/Feb/10 AltLd O/S
with Davey Luke
Hidden 14/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
mux 02/Jan/10 AltLd rpt

did a veriation on pitch two taking the steep v groove right of the right hand start. crap ice but good mixed above..little gear about v.

with Adam
A Crook 02/Jan/10 AltLd O/S
Hidden 31/Dec/09 AltLd O/S
rob1 ?/Jan/09 AltLd
with Tom Martin
Tim Sparrow ?/Jan/07 -

Falling down as we climbed.

with Ben W
Ian McNeill ??/2006 -
mux ??/2005 AltLd O/S

great nic ...

with Tom and James
NickJH ?/Feb/04 AltLd O/S
with CBradley
Hidden ?/Jan/00 AltLd O/S
zero six ??/2000 Lead O/S
Nick Biven ?/Jan/96 AltLd
with Duncan Nicol
Hidden 09/Feb/91 Lead
Hidden 25/Jan/86 AltLd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
iksander, Tom Hecht
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