Icefall Gully* IV 4

Rockfax Description
Fantastic mid grade-ice climbing
1) 2, 45m. Climb easy ice to a steepening
2) 3, 45m. Follow more ice to a large ledge
3) 4, 45m. Climb the steep left-hand icefall to gain a large ledge
4) 3, 45m. Continue up a right facing groove to gain easy snowy ground
5) 3, 45m. Climb easy snow then pass a steeper bulge-section to gain the upper gully
6) 2, 120m. Aim up and left and follow steep snowy ground to the summit. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Cold Climbs.

Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 31 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.

frost - Solo - 12/Feb/15

Hidden - Lead dnf - 07/Mar/13

quite lean but do'able gave up due to late start.
augustus trout - 2nd dnf - 30/Jan/11 with Al Metelko

Hjort - AltLd O/S - 09/Jan/11 with Nigel Milner

adie84 - 2011

Luke Brooks - 2011

PAJames - 2011

Left hand. Two good, but poorly protected pitches, and a lot of swimming in snow. Good though.
HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/10 with Dave Gleave

Major wade to the bottom. Variation first pitch, involving a slightly frightening unprotected turf corner (?V). Cracking route.
Adam Booth - AltLd O/S - 18/Dec/10 with Tom Jumar, Misha

2.5hrs to slog through shin to knee deep fresh snow into the bowl below the crag - fortunately other teams had already broken trail but it wasn't a proper path. Met Rich Stone - think he said it was the hardest approach he's ever experienced. With tonnes of fresh snow, Icefall was one of the few routes going. Adam did a variation start to the right of P1, which had some good, bold mixed climbing and a worrying section of rotten snow ice which came away under Tom and me in large chunks, exposing rotting goo. Tom led P2, which had good ice. I 'led' the slog to the top. Good to get something done considering the conditions. Adam suggested walking off along the ridge, which seemed like a good idea but we ended up going too far left as visibility was poor and we didn't wanted to keep away from the crag. Eventually realised that we had dropped into the wrong valley to the left (looking out) of the ridge. Wasn't much of an issue though, just added a bit of time to the slog. Thanks to Tom for breaking trail most of the way.
Misha - 2nd rpt - 18/Dec/10 with Adam Booth, Tom

Great climb, first ascent this season?
Noodles - AltLd O/S - 08/Dec/10 with Ben Cook

Hidden - Lead - 08/Dec/10

Had hoped to do a big mixed route but turf was only half-frozen and snow wasn't frozen at all, so disintegrating ice was the only option. Phil led a nice pitch of IV just to the right of the direct start to Western Gully. A scrappy mixed pitch got us to the terrace. Three easy traversing pitches led right to the bottom of the main ice pitches of Icefall Gully, which were just about hanging on. Fairly easy climbing which felt quite serious due to often thin ice and little good gear - IV 3? Led first ice pitch, Phil did the second and after that we had three more pitches and some moving together over easy ground to emerge into a howling wind. Got a lift to Gerlan in the morning, so opted for a quick descent into Ogwen, then hitched to Capel and got a taxi back to Nant Peris from Plas-y-Brenin. Last Welsh winter route of the season - a pity, but what an amazing season it has been!
Misha - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with Phil

Crag in clag. Did a very good ice pitch (although middle section collapsing), then mixed mushy veg pitch to get onto the terrace. Turf not consistantly frozen, thin ice gone so did three pitches traversing right (underneath Somme-disintegrating) to Icefall Gully. Bottom pitch a little suspect but second pitch fat, solid and excellent. Then 3 1/2 pitches of 'easy ground', boring! Topped out up vertical snow into dark icy maelstrom! Got off top as quick as poss.
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 13/Mar/10 with misha

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Mar/10

Wonderful route. Beautiful alpine conditions. Steady grade IV all the way up, steepish P3, plenty of good ice.
ruaidh - AltLd O/S - 07/Mar/10 with Zoe

kenneM - AltLd O/S - Feb/10 with Davey Luke

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 14/Jan/10

did a veriation on pitch two taking the steep v groove right of the right hand start. crap ice but good mixed above..little gear about v.
mux - AltLd rpt - 02/Jan/10 with Adam

A Crook - AltLd O/S - 02/Jan/10 with Dave Garry

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Dec/09

rob1 - AltLd - Jan/09 with Tom Martin

Falling down as we climbed.
Tim Sparrow - Jan/07 with Ben W

Ian McNeill - 2006

great nic ...
mux - AltLd O/S - 2005 with Tom and James

NickJH - AltLd O/S - Feb/04 with CBradley

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jan/00

zero six - Lead O/S - 2000

Nick Biven - AltLd - Jan/96 with Duncan Nicol

ChrisJD - Lead - 09/Feb/91

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jan/86

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Tom Hecht

Total votes cast 15
hard V0 of 5
V0 of 5
easy V0 of 5
hard IV0 of 5
IV3 of 5
easy IV2 of 5
hard III0 of 5
III0 of 5
easy III0 of 5
hard 50 of 4
50 of 4
easy 50 of 4
hard 40 of 4
42 of 4
easy 42 of 4
hard 30 of 4
30 of 4
easy 30 of 4
3 Stars0 of 6
2 Stars3 of 6
1 Star3 of 6
0 Stars0 of 6
Bag of .....0 of 6
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S
Clean repeat