Restricted Access
Following a fatality, the BMC agreed the following conditions with the landowner - failure to comply with these requirements could result in a complete ban on climbing:
- No large groups
- No outdoor education or instructional groups
- No dogs
- All climbers must descend on foot - NO abseiling
The North East England Guide provides warning on the stability of the following routes: Pianissimo to Kestrel, Wings, BBC, Crackers and Gone. Many of the routes have steep grassy top outs.
Start below a thin slightly left-leaning crack just to the left of Jonas. Follow this to a large ledge. Near the left end of the ledge,
climb a short crack to a narrow ledge. Place some gear and make an exciting traverse right along the bulging wall for about 4m to another
crack (more gear, phew!). Climb up this (same as the top of Jonas, I think), finishing just right of the big tree.
climb a short crack to a narrow ledge. Place some gear and make an exciting traverse right along the bulging wall for about 4m to another
crack (more gear, phew!). Climb up this (same as the top of Jonas, I think), finishing just right of the big tree.
Simon Caldwell, Carmen Elphick, and Will Smith 25/Apr/2007.
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Route of Interest
Red Pencil
Grade: S 4a ***
(Pen-y-ghent)