Restricted Access
An SSSI and a Special Area Of Conservation, the vegetation in the gorge area is especially important. Among the rare species to be found in the area are Scarce Turf-moss, Tunbridge Filmy-fern, Deratocarpon miniatum and Rock Fingerwort. The rock face and exposures are also nationally important geological features. Vegetation clearance and modification of the rock faces is to be avoided without prior consent from Natural Resources Wales (NRW) and the clearance of trees and undergrowth has in the past has led to the real threat of access restrictions.
While NRW manage the North Side of the River, the South Side is privately owned and the land owner has stated that up to 6 local climbers may climb on the south side of the river. We ask climbers to respect this and to help improve relations by keeping the area tidy.
Rockfax Description
A traditional classic that incorporates grooves, overlaps and slabs. Plenty of technical moves, a thuggish pull and numerous threads for protection along the way. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Good climbing in exciting positions. Start beneath a rock tube at 9m. Climb to a small tree. Pull over the bulge into a scoop, step up and move left to the arete and climb steeply past 2TRs to gain a rest in the hanging groove above. Reluctantly step right onto the lip of the overhang and traverse right to a groove on the arete, TRs. Step up and swing left PR, then pull over the roof to gain the crack above, TR. Finish up the crack to tree belays.
Gary Gibson 23/Mar/1985.
Ticklists
Unloved Trad Routes of S.E. Wales , Paul Dearden's classic rock climbs
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Dinas Rock
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Steam Train
Grade: E4 6a ***
(Fall Bay to Mewslade)