Just left of Arete Direct, climb the gully until you can step onto the main face. Follow the easiest line up from here.
This climb is in 13 logbooks, and on no wishlists.
Tough, HVD I think. Steep and at times awkward for the grade. Brilliant climbing though, would be worth 3 stars if wasn't for the rather vegetated and broken middle section. no_more_scotch_eggs - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/13 with iain