43m. Bouldery start, past the break to clip the first bolt. Then follows a thin sequence, relenting at the mantleshelf, which you won't fluff if you are good enough to get that far! After the 2nd bolt absorbing moves lead up and left to the Rainbow, which you follow before going up to and following the exit groove.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, a State of Slate, Progression, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, slate E5's, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's, Ultimate E5 ticklist.

dan gibson 13/Aug Lead O/S
with alice thompson
FreddieSmith 08/Aug Lead O/S
with Becky Good
Misha 21/Jun Lead dog

Fell off the crux sequence going off the dishes just above the first bolt, so annoying as got it second go and did the rest fine. Outside edge on the matchstick foothold did the trick. Really wished I had stiffer shoes though! What a great route - safe where it's hard but run out where it's easier, lots of good moves and even got to walk along the rainbow for a bit. Started from the right and traversed into the good holds per the RF topo as going direct per GU was nails. Good gear in the break to protect the 5c rockover to clip the first bolt. Good rest and opportunity to contemplate what lies above. 6a move to get stood up on the last decent foothold for a while. Crux 6b move off the poor dishes follows to get decent crimps. Increasingly run our 5c above to get a good edge, with a final 5c mantle to clip the second bolt (don't fall off there!). Another 6a move past the second bolt and a couple of 5c moves to get on the rainbow just as the runout gets interesting. Exciting walk to gear below and in the finishing groove. Belayed on the prow and Ian finished off the E1 ish top pitch. Memorable! Hard E4 if I was being harsh but probably just about E5 for the 5c run outs. The hard moves are safe though. Gear: 0.3 and 0.4 cams, offsets (including small ones) and micros.

with Ian S
ianstevens 21/Jun AltLd
with Misha CC
Ed Booth 23/May 2nd rpt
with Anna Pugh, Adam Booth
Adam Booth 23/May Lead O/S
with Anna Pugh, Ed Booth
MischaHY 15/Mar Lead O/S

First E5 onsight, and also my first hard slate route. Phenomenal thin climbing with a terrifying crux move. Treading tentatively along the top of the rainbow was an incredibly intense moment.

tim newton 01/Feb Lead G/U

Tried it last year and fell off at the first crux, realised my shoes were way too soft, so unclipped the bolt, took out the gear below and down climbed to the ground. Went first go today reasonably smoothly, nice to finally tick it off.

Rachel Slater 01/Feb 2nd β
Tom Livingstone 19/Nov/14 Lead G/U

Balls, blew the onsight by the first bolt. Went fine second go.

with Tim Neill, John Orr, Calum Muskett
i_a_coops 16/Nov/14 Lead β

Not quite onsight, as I had been told that the cruxes were near the bolts, which made it a lot less scary setting out.

with Jenny
robertmctague 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S

well intense! first e5 onsight, awesome experience.

with Theo
datoon 05/Oct/14 Lead O/S
with Adam Coles
Hidden 28/Sep/14 Lead dnf
morganator 28/Sep/14 Lead dog

Harder than I remembered. Got the hard moves by the first bolt, 3 goes at the harder moves by the 2nd bolt. 6b in new slate guide- I agree

with John Roberts
markalmack 29/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Ben
Ben1983 29/Jun/14 2nd dog
duncandarnell 17/Jun/14 Lead rpt

Few top rope sessions last week to dial the moves, would love to onsight but out of my grade atm So much fun!

C coldwell-storry 05/Jun/14 Lead O/S
with Neil Chelton
Hidden 02/May/14 Lead O/S
Dan724 28/Feb/14 Lead RP

Came off getting to the rainbow on my first go...I rocked up to a 'hold' which turned out to be a sun induced mirage (very frustrating). Bumped into Caff whilst belaying Ben on the Rainbow; he gave me some good beta which made the move I'd fallen on seem quite easy. I was initially very annoyed to have blown the onsight but I'm now determined to get on more E5's regardless of the fear of failing and to push myself wherever possible. Overall an amazing route with three sections of unforgettable climbing.

Ed morris 21/Sep/13 Lead O/S

The mantel was gripping but worth it for getting to walk along the rainbow! Found some of the last moves to the belay bolts desperate for some reason.

with -martin
Stefan_Morris 18/Sep/13 TR O/S
Daniel Heath 21/Jun/13 Lead O/S

Found the moves by the bolts very hard. The rest didn't let up much, I wouldn't complain at 6b. Exciting

with Hayden Richards
andyinglis 23/May/13 Lead O/S

1st E5 onsight. Brilliant slab climbing on a great piece of rock.

BenRyle 06/May/13 Lead O/S

Great route, awesome to be on the rainbow. ok if the run out is out of mind. perfect day :)Cheers to the 2 gents for the directions

Hidden ??/2013 Lead
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 -
Hidden ??/2013 Lead O/S
shed_hed 19/Oct/12 2nd β

Fantastic climbing and right on my limit, really happy to get it clean!

with Mike and Bruce
Michael Allday 19/Oct/12 Lead rpt
Gambit 06/Oct/12 Lead dnf

A big fall between the first two bolts, hope to be back some time

with OlI, Guiom, Barney
Ed Babs 04/Sep/12 Lead β

Almost onsight. A crisis of confidence at the 6b move by first bolt saw me waver. Shame because after a brief talk to myself I made the move and cruised to the top. Shoulda, woulda, coulda...

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe 05/May/12 Lead O/S
with Andy Benson
Adam Long 13/Apr/12 Lead O/S
with Pete Robins
Michael Allday 19/Feb/12 Lead O/S
with John beecham
cballard ??/2012 -
jacobjacob 20/Nov/11 Lead O/S

great fun! felt easy after heading the shot...

wolf.leeb 14/Nov/11 Lead O/S

rather lovely... and surprisingly easy.

with rich, nic
willoates 06/Nov/11 Lead O/S

Amazing route, well psyched, first E5 onsight! Crux is hard and rocking onto the rainbow for the first time was unforgettable. Found it technically very hard.

with Jimbob, Iona
Russell Birkett 01/Jun/11 Lead

yo yo after a slip at ther first bolt, very good but tricky!

with Murdoch J
Hidden 25/May/11 Lead
Hidden ?/May/11 Lead O/S
barni 22/Mar/11 2nd rpt
with luke
Luke Brooks 22/Mar/11 Lead rpt
with Barni
beci tointen ?/Jan/11 Lead RP

fell along way 1st time. (E4 5c)

with Jamie Kean
Rory Shaw ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden ??/2011 -
Hidden 09/Oct/10 Lead O/S
Pippa 09/Oct/10 2nd
with Jon
smallerrich 15/Jun/10 Lead O/S

Cool route, the rainbows awesome!

with Crad
nige ?/Jun/10 Lead O/S
with mark hounslea
Hidden 02/May/10 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/10 2nd O/S
farmus21 07/Feb/10 Lead RP


farmus21 26/Jan/10 TR RP

Will lead...will lead.

with Sally Lisle, Rich Cannell
Alex Mason 26/Nov/09 Lead O/S

Really cold. Set off too far right, had too make make a hard traverse leftwards back online. totally numb extremities, bad finger and no warm-up meant i nearly lowered off at first bolt. Pressed on and shazam done, nice climb. soft E5 6b.

with Duncan Campbell, Bubbles, James Grey
farmus21 26/Nov/09 2nd

Didn't think I'd get it so wussed out and followed Alex, got it in one and felt suprisingly do-able. Can't wait to get back on it. Scary but safe, I think. (Alex; my name is spelt with an 'a')

with Alex Mason
Mike Goldthorp 02/Nov/09 Lead O/S
with Pete H
feilx 05/Apr/09 Lead O/S
with Angus
lukehunt 27/Feb/09 Lead O/S

It started raining when I got to the second bolt. So frustrated with a wet weekend that went for a battle up it anyway. On off.

with Tom Ripley
JulesV ??/2009 -
barni 17/Oct/08 Lead

fell off but finished, felt hard high up reachy

with Tim
IOAN D 19/Jun/08 Lead O/S
with gareth
alaan 27/May/08 Lead O/S
with Matt
mattyork2 27/May/08 2nd O/S
ChalkBall 18/May/08 2nd O/S
Luke Brooks 18/May/08 Lead β
morganator 18/May/08 Lead rpt
with Mike Robinson
Dave Bond 06/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Simon Wren
Toby Dunn 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with Joe Bawden
JulesV 21/Apr/07 Lead O/S
with joe bawden
Ed Booth 08/Apr/07 Lead O/S

More sustained than expected, fukin ace though!!

with Roel Driesen
Hidden ??/2007 Lead rpt
Hidden 15/Oct/06 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jul/06 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/2006 -
Dringo ??/2006 -
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ?/Oct/05 Lead dog

Did all the hard bits then stupidly fell entering the groove above - how embarrasing!

Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing ??/2005 Lead

Let go going into the groove, highly disappointing after climbing the lower section cleanly. What an idiot.

with Jeff McDonald
Gus 28/Jul/04 Lead O/S
paul m hadley ??/2004 Lead
Davros the Psyched ??/2004 Lead O/S
Mark Riley ?/Apr/02 Lead

Anyone who thinks this route is E4 6a obviously has no personal experience of either the imfamous runout mantleshelf or the move onto the rainbow above the bolt.

with Bryn Jones
Brown ?/Oct/01 2nd O/S
with Unknown
mr mills ??/2000 Lead O/S

a great slab climb

with edwin
Roget 19/Jun/99 Lead O/S
with jon
Hidden 29/May/99 Lead O/S
Hidden 29/May/99 Lead β
BenTiffin ?/Sep/98 TR
mikedelderfield 12/Apr/98 2nd O/S
Ched ??/1997 TR
ste_d 10/Aug/96 Lead O/S
with mik
Dave Musgrove Jnr 27/Apr/96 Lead O/S
with Nick Ashton
steve taylor ?/Jul/95 Lead
with mark williams
Hidden 21/Aug/94 Lead O/S
whispering nic ?/Oct/93 Lead
with Ali W
Hidden ?/Oct/93 2nd
Stoney Boy 19/Apr/93 Lead O/S
with Bob Marks
Rich Kirby 01/Sep/92 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/92 Lead β
goi.ashmore 20/Jun/92 Lead β

Done in seconds...abbed past to check the mantel first. I was annoyed with guidebook when I saw how easy it was

with Simon Coles
mark-abz 24/Aug/91 Lead O/S
with Andy W
mattnuttall 17/Jul/91 Lead O/S

First E5 - OS and suitably scary. :-)

with Matthieu Mounier
chrisdavies ?/May/91 Lead O/S

nice climb!

channinga ??/1991 -
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ?/Jun/90 Lead O/S
with Bill Williamson
DDDD ??/1990 -
andy farnell ??/1990 Lead

Date a guess. I remember it felt more like E4 6b than E5 6a.

mik1miller ??/1990 Lead O/S
with elliot blaylock
Hidden ??/1990 -
Billg 29/Jun/89 2nd
with Jon Barton
Billg ??/1989 Lead O/S
Steve Walker ??/1989 Lead
with Bill
NickHarms ??/1989 -
Hidden 11/Sep/88 AltLd
Dave Douglas 24/Jul/88 2nd O/S
bullybones ??/1988 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1988 Lead
Bruce Kerr 14/Aug/87 2nd
with Andrew Jackson
sadams 12/Jul/87 Lead
with unseconded
Mike Owen 23/May/87 Lead O/S
with Elaine Owen
Hidden ??/1987 -
Nick Biven ??/1987 2nd O/S
Hidden ??/1987 AltLd
shark ?/Jul/86 TR
with Charlie Stripp
keefe 05/May/86 -
Pedro50 29/May/85 Lead β
with Al Austin
mark mcgowan01 ??/1985 -
Chris Craggs ??/1980 -
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High E6
Mid E6
Low E6
High E5
Mid E5
Low E5
High E4
Mid E4
Low E4
Votes cast 44
High 6b
Mid 6b
Low 6b
High 6a
Mid 6a
Low 6a
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
Votes cast 55
Votes cast 49
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
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Flashed (β)
Ground Up
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