Poetry Pink*** E5 6a
[A slatehead and a Malham-ite on one of the best slab pitches anywhere, 3 kb]43m. Bouldery start, past the break to clip the first bolt. Then follows a thin sequence, relenting at the mantleshelf, which you won't fluff if you are good enough to get that far! After the 2nd bolt absorbing moves lead up and left to the Rainbow, which you follow before going up to and following the exit groove.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, a State of Slate, Progression, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist.

Photo: A slatehead and a Malham-ite on one of the best slab pitches anywhere © Pekkie
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 120 logbooks, and on 59 wishlists.

Balls, blew the onsight by the first bolt. Went fine second go.
Tom Livingstone - Lead G/U - 19/Nov/14 with Tim Neill, John Orr, Calum Muskett

Not quite onsight, as I had been told that the cruxes were near the bolts, which made it a lot less scary setting out.
i_a_coops - Lead β - 16/Nov/14 with Jenny

well intense! first e5 onsight, awesome experience.
robertmctague - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14

datoon - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Adam Coles

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/14

Harder than I remembered. Got the hard moves by the first bolt, 3 goes at the harder moves by the 2nd bolt. 6b in new slate guide- I agree
morganator - Lead dog - 28/Sep/14 with John Roberts

markalmack - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Ben

Few top rope sessions last week to dial the moves, would love to onsight but out of my grade atm So much fun!
duncandarnell - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/14

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Neil Chelton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/14

Came off getting to the rainbow on my first go...I rocked up to a 'hold' which turned out to be a sun induced mirage (very frustrating). Bumped into Caff whilst belaying Ben on the Rainbow; he gave me some good beta which made the move I'd fallen on seem quite easy. I was initially very annoyed to have blown the onsight but I'm now determined to get on more E5's regardless of the fear of failing and to push myself wherever possible. Overall an amazing route with three sections of unforgettable climbing.
Dan724 - Lead RP - 28/Feb/14 with Ben Ryle

The mantel was gripping but worth it for getting to walk along the rainbow! Found some of the last moves to the belay bolts desperate for some reason.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with -martin

Stefan_Morris - TR O/S - 18/Sep/13

Found the moves by the bolts very hard. The rest didn't let up much, I wouldn't complain at 6b. Exciting
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards

1st E5 onsight. Brilliant slab climbing on a great piece of rock.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave Ogden

Great route, awesome to be on the rainbow. ok if the run out is out of mind. perfect day :)Cheers to the 2 gents for the directions
BenRyle - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Tom Coombe

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Fantastic climbing and right on my limit, really happy to get it clean!
shed_hed - 2nd β - 19/Oct/12 with Mike and Bruce

Michael Allday - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/12

A big fall between the first two bolts, hope to be back some time
Gambit - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/12 with OlI, Guiom, Barney

Almost onsight. A crisis of confidence at the 6b move by first bolt saw me waver. Shame because after a brief talk to myself I made the move and cruised to the top. Shoulda, woulda, coulda...
Ed Babs - Lead β - 04/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Andy Benson

Adam Long - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Pete Robins

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with John beecham

cballard - 2012

great fun! felt easy after heading the shot...
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11

rather lovely... and surprisingly easy.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/11 with rich, nic

Amazing route, well psyched, first E5 onsight! Crux is hard and rocking onto the rainbow for the first time was unforgettable. Found it technically very hard.
willoates - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Jimbob, Iona

yo yo after a slip at ther first bolt, very good but tricky!
Russell Birkett - Lead - 01/Jun/11 with Murdoch J

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

barni - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/11 with luke

Luke Brooks - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11 with Barni

fell along way 1st time. (E4 5c)
beci tointen - Lead RP - Jan/11 with Jamie Kean

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Pippa - 2nd - 09/Oct/10 with Jon

Cool route, the rainbows awesome!
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Crad

nige - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10

Grin.
farmus21 - Lead RP - 07/Feb/10 with Rich Cannell

Will lead...will lead.
farmus21 - TR RP - 26/Jan/10 with Sally Lisle, Rich Cannell

Really cold. Set off too far right, had too make make a hard traverse leftwards back online. totally numb extremities, bad finger and no warm-up meant i nearly lowered off at first bolt. Pressed on and shazam done, nice climb. soft E5 6b.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09 with Duncan Campbell, Bubbles, James Grey

Didn't think I'd get it so wussed out and followed Alex, got it in one and felt suprisingly do-able. Can't wait to get back on it. Scary but safe, I think. (Alex; my name is spelt with an 'a')
farmus21 - 2nd - 26/Nov/09 with Alex Mason

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/09 with Pete H

feilx - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Angus

It started raining when I got to the second bolt. So frustrated with a wet weekend that went for a battle up it anyway. On off.
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/09 with Tom Ripley

JulesV - 2009

fell off but finished, felt hard high up reachy
barni - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Tim

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with gareth

alaan - Lead O/S - 27/May/08 with Matt

mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 27/May/08 with Alan Royle

ChalkBall - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Luke Brooks

Luke Brooks - Lead β - 18/May/08 with Ryan Brooks

morganator - Lead rpt - 18/May/08 with Mike Robinson

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Simon Wren

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Joe Bawden

JulesV - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with joe bawden

More sustained than expected, fukin ace though!!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Roel Driesen

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2007

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - 2006

Dringo - 2006

Did all the hard bits then stupidly fell entering the groove above - how embarrasing!
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead dog - Oct/05

Let go going into the groove, highly disappointing after climbing the lower section cleanly. What an idiot.
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2005 with Jeff McDonald

Gus - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/04

paul m hadley - Lead - 2004

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2004

Anyone who thinks this route is E4 6a obviously has no personal experience of either the imfamous runout mantleshelf or the move onto the rainbow above the bolt.
Mark Riley - Lead - Apr/02 with Bryn Jones

Brown - 2nd O/S - Oct/01 with Unknown

a great slab climb
mr mills - Lead O/S - 2000 with edwin

Roget - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/99 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/99

Hidden - Lead β - 29/May/99

BenTiffin - TR - Sep/98

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/98 with Steven Delderfield

Ched - TR - 1997

ste_d - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/96 with mik

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/96 with Nick Ashton

steve taylor - Lead - Jul/95 with mark williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/94

whispering nic - Lead - Oct/93 with Ali W

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/93

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/93 with Bob Marks

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/92 with Paul Tanton

Hidden - Lead β - Jul/92

Done in seconds...abbed past to check the mantel first. I was annoyed with guidebook when I saw how easy it was
goi.ashmore - Lead β - 20/Jun/92 with Simon Coles

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91 with Andy W

First E5 - OS and suitably scary. :-)
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/91 with Matthieu Mounier

nice climb!
chrisdavies - Lead O/S - May/91

channinga - 1991

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - Jun/90 with Bill Williamson

DDDD - 1990

Date a guess. I remember it felt more like E4 6b than E5 6a.
andy farnell - Lead - 1990

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with elliot blaylock

Hidden - 1990

Billg - 2nd - 29/Jun/89 with Jon Barton

Billg - Lead O/S - 1989

Steve Walker - Lead - 1989 with Bill

NickHarms - 1989

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/88

Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/88

bullybones - Lead O/S - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 1988

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 14/Aug/87 with Andrew Jackson

sadams - Lead - 12/Jul/87 with unseconded

Mike Owen - 23/May/87 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 1987

Nick Biven - 2nd O/S - 1987

Paul Clarke - AltLd - 1987 with Paul Greenland, Nick Dalzell

shark - TR - Jul/86 with Charlie Stripp

keefe - 05/May/86

Pedro50 - Lead β - 29/May/85 with Al Austin

mark mcgowan01 - 1985

Chris Craggs - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 139
hard E60 of 41
E60 of 41
easy E61 of 41
hard E50 of 41
E526 of 41
easy E57 of 41
hard E47 of 41
E40 of 41
easy E40 of 41
hard 6b0 of 52
6b1 of 52
easy 6b30 of 52
hard 6a5 of 52
6a14 of 52
easy 6a0 of 52
hard 5c2 of 52
5c0 of 52
easy 5c0 of 52
3 Stars43 of 46
2 Stars1 of 46
1 Star0 of 46
0 Stars2 of 46
Bag of .....0 of 46
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Style of ascent

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