Fell off the crux sequence going off the dishes just above the first bolt, so annoying as got it second go and did the rest fine. Outside edge on the matchstick foothold did the trick. Really wished I had stiffer shoes though! What a great route - safe where it's hard but run out where it's easier, lots of good moves and even got to walk along the rainbow for a bit. Started from the right and traversed into the good holds per the RF topo as going direct per GU was nails. Good gear in the break to protect the 5c rockover to clip the first bolt. Good rest and opportunity to contemplate what lies above. 6a move to get stood up on the last decent foothold for a while. Crux 6b move off the poor dishes follows to get decent crimps. Increasingly run our 5c above to get a good edge, with a final 5c mantle to clip the second bolt (don't fall off there!). Another 6a move past the second bolt and a couple of 5c moves to get on the rainbow just as the runout gets interesting. Exciting walk to gear below and in the finishing groove. Belayed on the prow and Ian finished off the E1 ish top pitch. Memorable! Hard E4 if I was being harsh but probably just about E5 for the 5c run outs. The hard moves are safe though. Gear: 0.3 and 0.4 cams, offsets (including small ones) and micros.
Misha - Lead dog - 21/Jun/15 with Ian S
Lead P2, crux section on P1 onsight.
ianstevens - AltLd - 21/Jun/15 with Misha CC
Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 23/May/15 with Anna Pugh, Adam Booth
Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Anna Pugh, Ed Booth
First E5 onsight, and also my first hard slate route. Phenomenal thin climbing with a terrifying crux move. Treading tentatively along the top of the rainbow was an incredibly intense moment.
MischaHY - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/15
Tried it last year and fell off at the first crux, realised my shoes were way too soft, so unclipped the bolt, took out the gear below and down climbed to the ground. Went first go today reasonably smoothly, nice to finally tick it off.
tim newton - Lead G/U - 01/Feb/15 with rachel slater
Rachel Slater - 2nd β - 01/Feb/15 with Tim Newton
Balls, blew the onsight by the first bolt. Went fine second go.
Tom Livingstone - Lead G/U - 19/Nov/14 with Tim Neill, John Orr, Calum Muskett
Not quite onsight, as I had been told that the cruxes were near the bolts, which made it a lot less scary setting out.
i_a_coops - Lead β - 16/Nov/14 with Jenny
well intense! first e5 onsight, awesome experience.
robertmctague - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14
datoon - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Adam Coles
Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/14
Harder than I remembered. Got the hard moves by the first bolt, 3 goes at the harder moves by the 2nd bolt. 6b in new slate guide- I agree
morganator - Lead dog - 28/Sep/14 with John Roberts
markalmack - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Ben
Few top rope sessions last week to dial the moves, would love to onsight but out of my grade atm So much fun!
duncandarnell - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/14
C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Neil Chelton
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/14
Came off getting to the rainbow on my first go...I rocked up to a 'hold' which turned out to be a sun induced mirage (very frustrating). Bumped into Caff whilst belaying Ben on the Rainbow; he gave me some good beta which made the move I'd fallen on seem quite easy. I was initially very annoyed to have blown the onsight but I'm now determined to get on more E5's regardless of the fear of failing and to push myself wherever possible.
Overall an amazing route with three sections of unforgettable climbing.
Dan724 - Lead RP - 28/Feb/14 with Ben Ryle
The mantel was gripping but worth it for getting to walk along the rainbow! Found some of the last moves to the belay bolts desperate for some reason.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with -martin
Stefan_Morris - TR O/S - 18/Sep/13
Found the moves by the bolts very hard. The rest didn't let up much, I wouldn't complain at 6b. Exciting
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards
1st E5 onsight. Brilliant slab climbing on a great piece of rock.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave Ogden
Great route, awesome to be on the rainbow. ok if the run out is out of mind. perfect day :)Cheers to the 2 gents for the directions
BenRyle - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Tom Coombe
Hidden - Lead - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - 2013
Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013
Fantastic climbing and right on my limit, really happy to get it clean!
shed_hed - 2nd β - 19/Oct/12 with Mike and Bruce
Michael Allday - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/12
A big fall between the first two bolts, hope to be back some time
Gambit - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/12 with OlI, Guiom, Barney
Almost onsight. A crisis of confidence at the 6b move by first bolt saw me waver. Shame because after a brief talk to myself I made the move and cruised to the top. Shoulda, woulda, coulda...
Ed Babs - Lead β - 04/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie
Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Andy Benson
Adam Long - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Pete Robins
Michael Allday - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with John beecham
cballard - 2012
great fun! felt easy after heading the shot...
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11
rather lovely... and surprisingly easy.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/11 with rich, nic
Amazing route, well psyched, first E5 onsight! Crux is hard and rocking onto the rainbow for the first time was unforgettable. Found it technically very hard.
willoates - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Jimbob, Iona
yo yo after a slip at ther first bolt, very good but tricky!
Russell Birkett - Lead - 01/Jun/11 with Murdoch J
Hidden - Lead - 25/May/11
Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11
barni - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/11 with luke
Luke Brooks - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11 with Barni
fell along way 1st time. (E4 5c)
beci tointen - Lead RP - Jan/11 with Jamie Kean
Rory Shaw - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - 2011
Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10
Pippa - 2nd - 09/Oct/10 with Jon
Cool route, the rainbows awesome!
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Crad
nige - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with mark hounslea
Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10
Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10
farmus21 - Lead RP - 07/Feb/10 with Rich Cannell
Will lead...will lead.
farmus21 - TR RP - 26/Jan/10 with Sally Lisle, Rich Cannell
Really cold. Set off too far right, had too make make a hard traverse leftwards back online. totally numb extremities, bad finger and no warm-up meant i nearly lowered off at first bolt. Pressed on and shazam done, nice climb. soft E5 6b.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09 with Duncan Campbell, Bubbles, James Grey
Didn't think I'd get it so wussed out and followed Alex, got it in one and felt suprisingly do-able. Can't wait to get back on it. Scary but safe, I think. (Alex; my name is spelt with an 'a')
farmus21 - 2nd - 26/Nov/09 with Alex Mason
Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/09 with Pete H
feilx - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Angus
It started raining when I got to the second bolt. So frustrated with a wet weekend that went for a battle up it anyway. On off.
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/09 with Tom Ripley
JulesV - 2009
fell off but finished, felt hard high up reachy
barni - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Tim
IOAN D - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with gareth
alaan - Lead O/S - 27/May/08 with Matt
mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 27/May/08 with Alan Royle
ChalkBall - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Luke Brooks
Luke Brooks - Lead β - 18/May/08 with Ryan Brooks
morganator - Lead rpt - 18/May/08 with Mike Robinson
Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Simon Wren
Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Joe Bawden
JulesV - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with joe bawden
More sustained than expected, fukin ace though!!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Roel Driesen
Hidden - Lead rpt - 2007
Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/06
Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/06
Hidden - 2006
Dringo - 2006
Did all the hard bits then stupidly fell entering the groove above - how embarrasing!
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead dog - Oct/05
Let go going into the groove, highly disappointing after climbing the lower section cleanly. What an idiot.
Rob Greenwood - UKC - Lead - 2005 with Jeff McDonald
Gus - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/04
paul m hadley - Lead - 2004
Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2004
Anyone who thinks this route is E4 6a obviously has no personal experience of either the imfamous runout mantleshelf or the move onto the rainbow above the bolt.
Mark Riley - Lead - Apr/02 with Bryn Jones
Brown - 2nd O/S - Oct/01 with Unknown
a great slab climb
mr mills - Lead O/S - 2000 with edwin
Roget - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/99 with jon
Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/99
Hidden - Lead β - 29/May/99
BenTiffin - TR - Sep/98
mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/98 with Steven Delderfield
Ched - TR - 1997
ste_d - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/96 with mik
Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/96 with Nick Ashton
steve taylor - Lead - Jul/95 with mark williams
Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/94
whispering nic - Lead - Oct/93 with Ali W
Hidden - 2nd - Oct/93
Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/93 with Bob Marks
Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/92 with Paul Tanton
Hidden - Lead β - Jul/92
Done in seconds...abbed past to check the mantel first. I was annoyed with guidebook when I saw how easy it was
goi.ashmore - Lead β - 20/Jun/92 with Simon Coles
mark-abz - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91 with Andy W
First E5 - OS and suitably scary. :-)
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/91 with Matthieu Mounier
chrisdavies - Lead O/S - May/91
channinga - 1991
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - Jun/90 with Bill Williamson
DDDD - 1990
Date a guess. I remember it felt more like E4 6b than E5 6a.
andy farnell - Lead - 1990
mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with elliot blaylock
Hidden - 1990
Billg - 2nd - 29/Jun/89 with Jon Barton
Billg - Lead O/S - 1989
Steve Walker - Lead - 1989 with Bill
NickHarms - 1989
Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/88
Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/88
bullybones - Lead O/S - 1988
Hidden - Lead - 1988
Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 14/Aug/87 with Andrew Jackson
sadams - Lead - 12/Jul/87 with unseconded
Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 23/May/87 with Elaine Owen
Hidden - 1987
Nick Biven - 2nd O/S - 1987
Hidden - AltLd - 1987
shark - TR - Jul/86 with Charlie Stripp
keefe - 05/May/86
Pedro50 - Lead β - 29/May/85 with Al Austin
mark mcgowan01 - 1985
Chris Craggs - 1980