Poetry Pink*** E5 6a
[Running it out on Poetry Pink, 2 kb]43m.

Rockfax Description
A stunning route that is the entry-level qualification for the big E5s on this slab. Start below the tower and make a rising traverse to reach good holds below the break. Place some gear and make a delicate mantel up to the bolt. A hard sequence of moves above this eventually leads to a decent three-finger edge. Beyond this each move is easier as you run it out to where a mantelshelf to reach the second bolt brings massive mental relief. Move up and left onto the Rainbow, then teeter right to jugs. Ascend to the groove past micro-wires and micro-cams. Head up the groove to the top or, if you want to extend the experience...
2) Released from Treatment 6a, 25m. Belay on the left at the base of the groove. Step back down into the groove, and traverse out to a bolt level with the belay. Carry on traversing until below a second bolt, move up to this, and then step right above the crux of Cystitis By Proxy and finish up the good holds to the bolt belay. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Bouldery start, past the break to clip the first bolt. Then follows a thin sequence, relenting at the mantleshelf, which you won't fluff if you are good enough to get that far! After the 2nd bolt absorbing moves lead up and left to the Rainbow, which you follow before going up to and following the exit groove.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, a State of Slate, Progression, ROCKFAX - Top 50 North Wales Climbs, Bangor BUMS Uni-Life Ticklist, slate E5's, Caff's 100 Ace E5s, Caff's 100 Best E5's.

Photo: Running it out on Poetry Pink © mark reeves
View all 14 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 131 logbooks, and on 62 wishlists.

dan gibson - Lead O/S - 13/Aug/15 with alice thompson

FreddieSmith - Lead O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Becky Good

Fell off the crux sequence going off the dishes just above the first bolt, so annoying as got it second go and did the rest fine. Outside edge on the matchstick foothold did the trick. Really wished I had stiffer shoes though! What a great route - safe where it's hard but run out where it's easier, lots of good moves and even got to walk along the rainbow for a bit. Started from the right and traversed into the good holds per the RF topo as going direct per GU was nails. Good gear in the break to protect the 5c rockover to clip the first bolt. Good rest and opportunity to contemplate what lies above. 6a move to get stood up on the last decent foothold for a while. Crux 6b move off the poor dishes follows to get decent crimps. Increasingly run our 5c above to get a good edge, with a final 5c mantle to clip the second bolt (don't fall off there!). Another 6a move past the second bolt and a couple of 5c moves to get on the rainbow just as the runout gets interesting. Exciting walk to gear below and in the finishing groove. Belayed on the prow and Ian finished off the E1 ish top pitch. Memorable! Hard E4 if I was being harsh but probably just about E5 for the 5c run outs. The hard moves are safe though. Gear: 0.3 and 0.4 cams, offsets (including small ones) and micros.
Misha - Lead dog - 21/Jun/15 with Ian S

ianstevens - AltLd - 21/Jun/15 with Misha CC

Ed Booth - 2nd rpt - 23/May/15 with Anna Pugh, Adam Booth

Adam Booth - Lead O/S - 23/May/15 with Anna Pugh, Ed Booth

First E5 onsight, and also my first hard slate route. Phenomenal thin climbing with a terrifying crux move. Treading tentatively along the top of the rainbow was an incredibly intense moment.
MischaHY - Lead O/S - 15/Mar/15

Tried it last year and fell off at the first crux, realised my shoes were way too soft, so unclipped the bolt, took out the gear below and down climbed to the ground. Went first go today reasonably smoothly, nice to finally tick it off.
tim newton - Lead G/U - 01/Feb/15 with rachel slater

Rachel Slater - 2nd β - 01/Feb/15 with Tim Newton

Balls, blew the onsight by the first bolt. Went fine second go.
Tom Livingstone - Lead G/U - 19/Nov/14 with Tim Neill, John Orr, Calum Muskett

Not quite onsight, as I had been told that the cruxes were near the bolts, which made it a lot less scary setting out.
i_a_coops - Lead β - 16/Nov/14 with Jenny

well intense! first e5 onsight, awesome experience.
robertmctague - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Theo

datoon - Lead O/S - 05/Oct/14 with Adam Coles

Hidden - Lead dnf - 28/Sep/14

Harder than I remembered. Got the hard moves by the first bolt, 3 goes at the harder moves by the 2nd bolt. 6b in new slate guide- I agree
morganator - Lead dog - 28/Sep/14 with John Roberts

markalmack - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/14 with Ben

Few top rope sessions last week to dial the moves, would love to onsight but out of my grade atm So much fun!
duncandarnell - Lead rpt - 17/Jun/14

C coldwell-storry - Lead O/S - 05/Jun/14 with Neil Chelton

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/14

Came off getting to the rainbow on my first go...I rocked up to a 'hold' which turned out to be a sun induced mirage (very frustrating). Bumped into Caff whilst belaying Ben on the Rainbow; he gave me some good beta which made the move I'd fallen on seem quite easy. I was initially very annoyed to have blown the onsight but I'm now determined to get on more E5's regardless of the fear of failing and to push myself wherever possible. Overall an amazing route with three sections of unforgettable climbing.
Dan724 - Lead RP - 28/Feb/14 with Ben Ryle

The mantel was gripping but worth it for getting to walk along the rainbow! Found some of the last moves to the belay bolts desperate for some reason.
Ed morris - Lead O/S - 21/Sep/13 with -martin

Stefan_Morris - TR O/S - 18/Sep/13

Found the moves by the bolts very hard. The rest didn't let up much, I wouldn't complain at 6b. Exciting
Daniel Heath - Lead O/S - 21/Jun/13 with Hayden Richards

1st E5 onsight. Brilliant slab climbing on a great piece of rock.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave Ogden

Great route, awesome to be on the rainbow. ok if the run out is out of mind. perfect day :)Cheers to the 2 gents for the directions
BenRyle - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Tom Coombe

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2013

Fantastic climbing and right on my limit, really happy to get it clean!
shed_hed - 2nd β - 19/Oct/12 with Mike and Bruce

Michael Allday - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/12

A big fall between the first two bolts, hope to be back some time
Gambit - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/12 with OlI, Guiom, Barney

Almost onsight. A crisis of confidence at the 6b move by first bolt saw me waver. Shame because after a brief talk to myself I made the move and cruised to the top. Shoulda, woulda, coulda...
Ed Babs - Lead β - 04/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Andy Benson

Adam Long - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Pete Robins

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with John beecham

cballard - 2012

great fun! felt easy after heading the shot...
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11

rather lovely... and surprisingly easy.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/11 with rich, nic

Amazing route, well psyched, first E5 onsight! Crux is hard and rocking onto the rainbow for the first time was unforgettable. Found it technically very hard.
willoates - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Jimbob, Iona

yo yo after a slip at ther first bolt, very good but tricky!
Russell Birkett - Lead - 01/Jun/11 with Murdoch J

Hidden - Lead - 25/May/11

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

barni - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/11 with luke

Luke Brooks - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11 with Barni

fell along way 1st time. (E4 5c)
beci tointen - Lead RP - Jan/11 with Jamie Kean

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Pippa - 2nd - 09/Oct/10 with Jon

Cool route, the rainbows awesome!
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Crad

nige - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10

Grin.
farmus21 - Lead RP - 07/Feb/10 with Rich Cannell

Will lead...will lead.
farmus21 - TR RP - 26/Jan/10 with Sally Lisle, Rich Cannell

Really cold. Set off too far right, had too make make a hard traverse leftwards back online. totally numb extremities, bad finger and no warm-up meant i nearly lowered off at first bolt. Pressed on and shazam done, nice climb. soft E5 6b.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09 with Duncan Campbell, Bubbles, James Grey

Didn't think I'd get it so wussed out and followed Alex, got it in one and felt suprisingly do-able. Can't wait to get back on it. Scary but safe, I think. (Alex; my name is spelt with an 'a')
farmus21 - 2nd - 26/Nov/09 with Alex Mason

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/09 with Pete H

feilx - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Angus

It started raining when I got to the second bolt. So frustrated with a wet weekend that went for a battle up it anyway. On off.
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/09 with Tom Ripley

JulesV - 2009

fell off but finished, felt hard high up reachy
barni - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Tim

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with gareth

alaan - Lead O/S - 27/May/08 with Matt

mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 27/May/08 with Alan Royle

ChalkBall - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Luke Brooks

Luke Brooks - Lead β - 18/May/08 with Ryan Brooks

morganator - Lead rpt - 18/May/08 with Mike Robinson

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Simon Wren

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Joe Bawden

JulesV - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with joe bawden

More sustained than expected, fukin ace though!!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Roel Driesen

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2007

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - Lead O/S - 11/Jul/06

Hidden - 2006

Dringo - 2006

Did all the hard bits then stupidly fell entering the groove above - how embarrasing!
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead dog - Oct/05

Let go going into the groove, highly disappointing after climbing the lower section cleanly. What an idiot.
Rob Greenwood - UKClimbing - Lead - 2005 with Jeff McDonald

Gus - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/04

paul m hadley - Lead - 2004

Davros the Psyched - Lead O/S - 2004

Anyone who thinks this route is E4 6a obviously has no personal experience of either the imfamous runout mantleshelf or the move onto the rainbow above the bolt.
Mark Riley - Lead - Apr/02 with Bryn Jones

Brown - 2nd O/S - Oct/01 with Unknown

a great slab climb
mr mills - Lead O/S - 2000 with edwin

Roget - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/99 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/99

Hidden - Lead β - 29/May/99

BenTiffin - TR - Sep/98

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/98 with Steven Delderfield

Ched - TR - 1997

ste_d - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/96 with mik

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/96 with Nick Ashton

steve taylor - Lead - Jul/95 with mark williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/94

whispering nic - Lead - Oct/93 with Ali W

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/93

Stoney Boy - Lead O/S - 19/Apr/93 with Bob Marks

Rich Kirby - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/92 with Paul Tanton

Hidden - Lead β - Jul/92

Done in seconds...abbed past to check the mantel first. I was annoyed with guidebook when I saw how easy it was
goi.ashmore - Lead β - 20/Jun/92 with Simon Coles

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91 with Andy W

First E5 - OS and suitably scary. :-)
mattnuttall - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/91 with Matthieu Mounier

nice climb!
chrisdavies - Lead O/S - May/91

channinga - 1991

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - Jun/90 with Bill Williamson

DDDD - 1990

Date a guess. I remember it felt more like E4 6b than E5 6a.
andy farnell - Lead - 1990

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with elliot blaylock

Hidden - 1990

Billg - 2nd - 29/Jun/89 with Jon Barton

Billg - Lead O/S - 1989

Steve Walker - Lead - 1989 with Bill

NickHarms - 1989

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/88

Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/88

bullybones - Lead O/S - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 1988

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 14/Aug/87 with Andrew Jackson

sadams - Lead - 12/Jul/87 with unseconded

Mike Owen - Lead O/S - 23/May/87 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 1987

Nick Biven - 2nd O/S - 1987

Hidden - AltLd - 1987

shark - TR - Jul/86 with Charlie Stripp

keefe - 05/May/86

Pedro50 - Lead β - 29/May/85 with Al Austin

mark mcgowan01 - 1985

Chris Craggs - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 148
hard E60 of 44
E60 of 44
easy E61 of 44
hard E50 of 44
E527 of 44
easy E59 of 44
hard E47 of 44
E40 of 44
easy E40 of 44
hard 6b0 of 55
6b1 of 55
easy 6b33 of 55
hard 6a5 of 55
6a14 of 55
easy 6a0 of 55
hard 5c2 of 55
5c0 of 55
easy 5c0 of 55
3 Stars46 of 49
2 Stars1 of 49
1 Star0 of 49
0 Stars2 of 49
Bag of .....0 of 49
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