Gwynedd > Rainbow Slab Area >
 
Poetry Pink*** E5 6a

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[Fiend on the reassuringly relaxing mantleshelf, Poetry Pink, Rainbow Slab., 2 kb]43m. Bouldery start, past the break to clip the first bolt. Then follows a thin sequence, relenting at the mantleshelf, which you won't fluff if you are good enough to get that far! After the 2nd bolt absorbing moves lead up and left to the Rainbow, which you follow before going up to and following the exit groove.

Ticklists: North Wales Rock Graded List, Best slab climbs of the UK, Full of Myself - Johnny's Book namecheck, a State of Slate.

Photo: Fiend on the reassuringly relaxing mantleshelf, Poetry Pink, Rainbow Slab. © Photo: cider_nutter
View all 9 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 99 logbooks, and on 47 wishlists.

1st E5 onsight. Brilliant slab climbing on a great piece of rock.
andyinglis - Lead O/S - 23/May/13 with Dave Ogden

Great route, awesome to be on the rainbow. ok if the run out is out of mind. perfect day :)Cheers to the 2 gents for the directions
BenRyle - Lead O/S - 06/May/13 with Tom Coombe

Hidden - 2013

Hidden - Lead - 2013

Fantastic climbing and right on my limit, really happy to get it clean!
shed_hed - 2nd β - 19/Oct/12 with Mike and Bruce

Michael Allday - Lead rpt - 19/Oct/12

A big fall between the first two bolts, hope to be back some time
Gambit - Lead dnf - 06/Oct/12 with OlI, Guiom, Barney

Almost onsight. A crisis of confidence at the 6b move by first bolt saw me waver. Shame because after a brief talk to myself I made the move and cruised to the top. Shoulda, woulda, coulda...
Ed Babs - Lead β - 04/Sep/12 with Iain Moodie

Tom Briggs - Jagged Globe - Lead O/S - 05/May/12 with Andy Benson

Adam Long - Lead O/S - 13/Apr/12 with Pete Robins

Michael Allday - Lead O/S - 19/Feb/12 with John beecham

cballard - 2012

great fun! felt easy after heading the shot...
jacobjacob - Lead O/S - 20/Nov/11

rather lovely... and surprisingly easy.
wolf.leeb - Lead O/S - 14/Nov/11 with rich, nic

Amazing route, well psyched, first E5 onsight! Crux is hard and rocking onto the rainbow for the first time was unforgettable. Found it technically very hard.
willoates - Lead O/S - 06/Nov/11 with Jimbob, Iona

yo yo after a slip at ther first bolt, very good but tricky!
Russell Birkett - Lead - 01/Jun/11 with Murdoch J

O deer [sic] 2nd go. Slipped off by first bolt. Don't have an excuse, just careless foot placement and worried about blowing the onsight (ironic). Absolutely superb moves up the rainbow. Brilliant route, a tribute to the vision of designer danger.
Franco Cookson - Lead - 25/May/11 with Rich

Hidden - Lead O/S - May/11

barni - 2nd rpt - 22/Mar/11 with luke

Luke Brooks - Lead rpt - 22/Mar/11 with Barni

fell along way 1st time. (E4 5c)
beci tointen - Lead RP - Jan/11 with Jamie Kean

Rory Shaw - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10

Pippa - 2nd - 09/Oct/10 with Jon

Cool route, the rainbows awesome!
smallerrich - Lead O/S - 15/Jun/10 with Crad

nige - Lead O/S - Jun/10 with mark hounslea

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/May/10

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 02/May/10

Grin.
farmus21 - Lead RP - 07/Feb/10 with Rich Cannell

Will lead...will lead.
farmus21 - TR RP - 26/Jan/10 with Sally Lisle, Rich Cannell

Really cold. Set off too far right, had too make make a hard traverse leftwards back online. totally numb extremities, bad finger and no warm-up meant i nearly lowered off at first bolt. Pressed on and shazam done, nice climb. soft E5 6b.
Alex Mason - Lead O/S - 26/Nov/09 with Duncan Campbell, Bubbles, James Grey

Didn't think I'd get it so wussed out and followed Alex, got it in one and felt suprisingly do-able. Can't wait to get back on it. Scary but safe, I think. (Alex; my name is spelt with an 'a')
farmus21 - 2nd - 26/Nov/09 with Alex Mason

Mike Goldthorp - Lead O/S - 02/Nov/09 with Pete H

feilx - Lead O/S - 05/Apr/09 with Angus

It started raining when I got to the second bolt. So frustrated with a wet weekend that went for a battle up it anyway. On off.
lukehunt - Lead O/S - 27/Feb/09 with Tom Ripley

JulesV - 2009

fell off but finished, felt hard high up reachy
barni - Lead - 17/Oct/08 with Tim

IOAN D - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/08 with gareth

alaan - Lead O/S - 27/May/08 with Matt

mattyork2 - 2nd O/S - 27/May/08 with Alan Royle

ChalkBall - 2nd O/S - 18/May/08 with Luke Brooks

Luke Brooks - Lead β - 18/May/08 with Ryan Brooks

morganator - Lead rpt - 18/May/08 with Mike Robinson

Dave Bond - Lead O/S - 06/Sep/07 with Simon Wren

Toby Dunn - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with Joe Bawden

JulesV - Lead O/S - 21/Apr/07 with joe bawden

More sustained than expected, fukin ace though!!
Ed Booth - Lead O/S - 08/Apr/07 with Roel Driesen

Hidden - Lead rpt - 2007

Hidden - 2nd dog - 15/Oct/06

Hidden - 2006

Dringo - 2006

Hidden - Lead dog - Oct/05

Gus - Lead O/S - 28/Jul/04

paul m hadley - Lead - 2004

Anyone who thinks this route is E4 6a obviously has no personal experience of either the imfamous runout mantleshelf or the move onto the rainbow above the bolt.
Mark Riley - Lead - Apr/02 with Bryn Jones

Brown - 2nd O/S - Oct/01 with Unknown

a great slab climb
mr mills - Lead O/S - 2000 with edwin

Roget - Lead O/S - 19/Jun/99 with jon

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/May/99

Hidden - Lead β - 29/May/99

BenTiffin - TR - Sep/98

mikedelderfield - 2nd O/S - 12/Apr/98 with Steven Delderfield

Ched - TR - 1997

ste_d - Lead O/S - 10/Aug/96 with mik

Dave Musgrove Jnr - Lead O/S - 27/Apr/96 with Nick Ashton

steve taylor - Lead - Jul/95 with mark williams

Hidden - Lead O/S - 21/Aug/94

whispering nic - Lead - Oct/93 with Ali W

Hidden - 2nd - Oct/93

Hidden - Lead O/S - 01/Sep/92

Hidden - Lead - Jul/92

Done in seconds...abbed past to check the mantel first. I was annoyed with guidebook when I saw how easy it was
goi.ashmore - Lead β - 20/Jun/92 with Simon Coles

mark-abz - Lead O/S - 24/Aug/91 with Andy W

nice climb!
chrisdavies - Lead O/S - May/91

channinga - 1991

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead O/S - Jun/90 with Bill Williamson

DDDD - 1990

Date a guess. I remember it felt more like E4 6b than E5 6a.
andy farnell - Lead - 1990

mik1miller - Lead O/S - 1990 with elliot blaylock

Hidden - 1990

Billg - 2nd - 29/Jun/89 with Jon Barton

Billg - Lead O/S - 1989

Steve Walker - Lead - 1989 with Bill

NickHarms - 1989

Hidden - AltLd - 11/Sep/88

Dave Douglas - 2nd O/S - 24/Jul/88

bullybones - Lead O/S - 1988

Hidden - Lead - 1988

Hidden - 2nd - 14/Aug/87

sadams - Lead - 12/Jul/87 with unseconded

Mike Owen - 23/May/87 with Elaine Owen

Hidden - 1987

shark - TR - Jul/86 with Charlie Stripp

keefe - 05/May/86

Pedro50 - Lead β - 29/May/85 with Al Austin

mark mcgowan01 - 1985

Chris Craggs - 1980

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Voting
Total votes cast 112
hard E60 of 31
E60 of 31
easy E61 of 31
hard E50 of 31
E518 of 31
easy E56 of 31
hard E46 of 31
E40 of 31
easy E40 of 31
hard 6b0 of 43
6b0 of 43
easy 6b25 of 43
hard 6a4 of 43
6a12 of 43
easy 6a0 of 43
hard 5c2 of 43
5c0 of 43
easy 5c0 of 43
3 Stars35 of 38
2 Stars1 of 38
1 Star0 of 38
0 Stars2 of 38
Bag of .....0 of 38
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Style of ascent

Lead63 of 99 (63.6%)
Followed14 of 99 (14.1%)
Toproped4 of 99 (4.0%)
Alt Leads1 of 99 (1.0%)
Unknown17 of 99 (17.2%)

'Climbed'39 of 99 (39.4%)
clean O/S43 of 99 (43.4%)
clean β6 of 99 (6.1%)
clean rpt5 of 99 (5.1%)
clean RP3 of 99 (3.0%)
dogged2 of 99 (2.0%)
dnf1 of 99 (1.0%)