Rockfax Description
II, 300m, 2 - 3 hours. In anything other than bad conditions this is a snow plod, but an exposed and enjoyable one. Cross the bergschrund and climb the couloir, initially on the right, before drifting back left as it steepens to around 50 degrees. Head back right near the top to reach the top of the North Face.
Descent - From the top of the North Face, follow the excellent airy ridge east to a short descent and then a mixed traverse around to Southeast Ridge. Follow this to the summit and then descend it back towards the Col d'Entrèves. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
Cracking snow/ice couloir with the great ambiance of the Cirque maudit behind making it seem much more remote than it really is. Approach from the Midi or Helbronner station, heading into the Cirque Maudit and go past the north face routes on the Tour Ronde. The route is the obvious wide couloir on the west face. Fairly sustained at around 50° with a few very short mixed sections, but quick to climb under good neve. At the top of the couloir follow the snow arete right to the top of the N Face Classic route and then either skirt the summit rock tower to gain the top of the normal route or climb the rock itself as for the N Face route.

Ticklists

BMC - Easier Classics in the Mont Blanc Range

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