UKC

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Fakey Rocks 6 Oct, 2022 Show βeta
βeta: Really nice climbing up the lower crack, into the undercut + interesting move to pass the first roof. OK so the lower crack into the undercut is dirty + scary but great climbing. Final corner section nice moves too. Potentially loose top out, take a long wide sling to protect via a loosish thread hole to the left at top of corner exit, but you will miss this if you top out direct. Reaching higher trees for belay is a mare even in winter. Potentially 3 stars but only 2 stars really. Walking up and squeezing under the fence to out to the left from here (looking out) seemed more doable than following the rope to the right which then requires climbing a big fence.
Show beta
βeta: Really nice climbing up the lower crack, into the undercut + interesting move to pass the first roof. OK so the lower crack into the undercut is dirty + scary but great climbing. Final corner section nice moves too. Potentially loose top out, take a long wide sling to protect via a loosish thread hole to the left at top of corner exit, but you will miss this if you top out direct. Reaching higher trees for belay is a mare even in winter. Potentially 3 stars but only 2 stars really. Walking up and squeezing under the fence to out to the left from here (looking out) seemed more doable than following the rope to the right which then requires climbing a big fence.

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Voting
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
High VS
Mid VS
Low VS
Votes cast 7
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
High 4c
Mid 4c
Low 4c
Votes cast 7
Votes cast 5
Style of Ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Not Set
Route of Interest
Rabbit's Paw Wall

Grade: HVS 5b ***
(Caley Crags)

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