Start at the foot of a "messy" crack beneath an impressive overhanging arete. Follow this easily to a good thread. Climb diagonally left to small cave and more good threads, then move back right following a line of holes and pockets to in-situ threads and an old peg. Move straight up past this (crux) to a steep corner crackline and follow it with continued interest to the top!

Ticklists: Best of Symonds Yat!.


ClimberDateStyle
Kev Little 10/Jun Lead O/S
with Ali
luke glaister 12/May 2nd rpt
Stickle Tarn 04/Oct/15 Lead O/S
Hidden 26/Sep/15 Lead rpt
Hidden 13/Sep/15 Lead O/S
mattrm 13/Sep/15 2nd O/S

Very happy to have got this one clean. Climbing is never super hard and the holds are all excellent. Pumpy tho. To all those

Circus 11/Sep/15 Lead O/S
with Luke
evhall 06/Sep/15 Lead rpt

Third time lucky!!! number 3 wire does the trick

with Tim Bray
Hidden 03/Sep/15 2nd rpt
evhall 06/Aug/15 Lead dog

Took some time to find the inverted wire through thread protection - and also to notice the massive jug just under the overlap...next time!!!

with Tim Bray
timtimpeggy 06/Aug/15 -
with Ev
maddy92 27/Jun/15 Lead O/S

A good route, however slightly let down by the initial few meters.

chrisallan 27/Jun/15 2nd O/S
Connie-Em 27/Jun/15 2nd dog

First attempt at E1

leigh 24/Jun/15 Lead rpt

Pleased to get this. Loose and vegetated at bottom but great pumpy middle section before getting established over bulge.

with Shaun
shaunstar9 24/Jun/15 2nd

Loose and vegetated at the bottom, compact juggy and pumpy at the top! Good lead Leigh!

with Leigh
luke glaister 28/Apr/15 Lead rpt

Good to come back and clean it. 2 years ago dogged it. Now fitter and head strong made light work of it. Brilliant.

with dan., casey johns
Hidden 28/Apr/15 2nd O/S
casey johns 28/Apr/15 2nd rpt
Hidden 11/Apr/15 2nd dog
steve-grigg 11/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Hidden ?/Apr/15 Lead O/S
Dave Thompson 26/Sep/14 Lead O/S
with James
Far Peak Climbing 27/Aug/14 2nd O/S
mop449 03/Aug/14 2nd O/S

Long moves to big holds for the crux. Pumpy but the hard climbing is over quickly.

with Jimbo
youwillfindjimbo 03/Aug/14 Lead O/S
with Dan Ely
jon_gill1 14/Jun/14 Lead O/S

The bottom section is very poor and vegetation is at quite a high level at the minute.I was surprised to find it in that condition given it supposed to be one of the yats best climbs.The top crack is good but the peg at the crux is in bad shape. Red rose speedway is a far better route in my opinion!

with ross garfoot
Hidden 29/Mar/14 Lead O/S
frank ramsay 03/Nov/13 2nd
with Aaron
Aaron Lines 03/Nov/13 Lead O/S
leigh 04/Sep/13 Lead dog

Traversed in from cave to miss chossy bottom. Got pumped and rested on dodgy peg - one more move and would have got to huge jhug - doh!

with Ali
luke glaister 25/Jun/13 Lead dog

One rest at the peg. Not from pump. From not wanting to commit from the peg. Had a word and finished the route. Its all there. But its one of them that has to flow. First and last route of the night. Very tired but very happy. :-)

casey johns 25/Jun/13 2nd dog
Hidden 11/Jun/13 Lead RP
Hidden 04/Jun/13 2nd O/S
JamesColeman ?/May/13 TR O/S

Top rope solo. Lovely.

gripped01 28/Apr/13 Lead

Cracking top half.

with Jim Jarvis
Roget 26/Aug/12 Lead O/S
with jim
monsteratt 26/Jun/12 2nd O/S

Felt pretty tough even though I knew what to expect. Tricky getting established in top groove.

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 26/Jun/12 Lead O/S
Chris Sansum 01/Apr/12 2nd rpt

Chose to second with a big heavy pack, to save walking up with it. Nearly regretted it! Definitely made it a lot harder! Good route. Positive all the way.

Hidden 26/Mar/12 2nd rpt
ad111 25/Mar/12 Lead O/S
Hidden 13/Jan/12 Lead O/S
tomhill#1 08/Oct/11 Lead O/S
Dale ?/Oct/11 Lead O/S

What a route 3 stars. I actually think my favourite single pitch of the year. Had everythin a little loose at start then steep hard 5b jug pulling on good rock, into the jamming crack. Woo Woo Woo. Topped off by a superburb view and perfect light, very surpised how good symonds yat is I'll b back

with johny
james.slater 06/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Best route at the yat? Strong contender! Fantastic route, it blew my mind!

TomMorgan 06/Aug/11 2nd O/S
monsteratt 21/Jun/11 Lead O/S

One of the best routes I've probably done at the Yat. Felt on edge due to threat of darkeness. Nothing special on the first half, but then goes through some pretty steep territory on some great pockets. Will have to do this again when it's not getting dark.

Andrew Abraham 21/Jun/11 2nd O/S
Goose4 19/May/11 Lead O/S
psronan 19/May/11 Lead O/S
Hidden 02/May/11 2nd O/S
Chris Sansum 27/Mar/11 2nd O/S
with Gary Lewin
Mark Davies 11/Sep/09 2nd rpt

two stars E1 5a/5b

with Mikeski
Paul Robertson 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S
Mark Davies 30/Jul/09 2nd β

Excellent

with Paul Robertson
guy xavier percival 30/Jul/09 Lead O/S

A BRILLIANT ROUTE.The Yats finest E1

with paul
Clarky10 01/Sep/07 Lead O/S
with Anna Clarke
SamStokes 29/May/07 Lead O/S

I loved this climb, big moves to big handholds and really nice flowing climbing! Fantastic!

mikej 22/Mar/98 2nd

Route checking for the new guide.

with Tony Bird
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, GargoyleFeet, whenry, Hidden, radams2000, Owen W-G, dan_dangled, Hidden, davidclare, stvredmond, Bespoke by Nature, Dean177, Sebastien Gastaud, J.Atkins, pryan300, dean79, marclloyd77, Dax, Mark Davies
Voting
High E2
Mid E2
Low E2
High E1
Mid E1
Low E1
High HVS
Mid HVS
Low HVS
Votes cast 13
High 5c
Mid 5c
Low 5c
High 5b
Mid 5b
Low 5b
High 5a
Mid 5a
Low 5a
Votes cast 18
Votes cast 20
Style of ascent
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Not Set
Onsighted
Repeated
Dogged
Flashed (β)
Redpoint
Not Set