Rockfax Description
16m. Climb a rib to ledges then hand traverse right (hand over the bulge) before trending left up the wall (bold) to a position below the big roof. Step out right and trend left to finish. Often dirty after rain. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The wall left of the Mangler. Start in the over hung corner, gain the overhung flake, hand traverse right until it is posible to climb the wall direct to the large roof, traverse right then exit at the weakest point.

The crimp for the move off the traverse has fallen off (winter 08/09). At present the scar is sharp enough to get reasonable friction on it.

SteveJCox 25/Feb TR β
Adam.May ??/2014 TR RP
kyaizawa 06/Oct/13 TR dog

Gave it another go today to work the moves and got to the top eventually. Moving up after the traverse is ok, if the handholds furthest right are used, but gaining the next ledge definitely felt like the crux (rockover then dyno). Pumpy but not too hard thereafter. Still a long way to go until the lead, and definitely still no cleaner...

lcullum7 06/Oct/13 TR dog
Lunar25 21/Jul/13 Lead O/S
with Kat
kyaizawa 17/May/13 Lead dnf

Eurgh... Hard and bold - grade may be justifiable if totally clean, which it wasn't: abbing and cleaning route would probably have taken until Christmas, and required a broom and an industrial vacuum cleaner. Backed off after finding very dirty/sandy holds (little purchase on the crimps in the break) and uninspiring gear at the end of the hand traverse (yes the no.2 tricam does fit sideway- ish and yes did survive being weighted; no I would not like to lob on it, or the wire behind the block underneath that feels like it's fracturing). Maybe if/when conditions are right, I'll get back on it...

lcullum7 17/May/13 TR dog

Coming over the lip of the roof was horribly dirty-even for Causey! Not sure if it was because I got the crux wrong or it was just dirty, but felt like hard 5c. Excellent hands off rest before the roof, should have spent longer on it.

Hidden 07/May/13 TR dnf
Dom Cordner 05/May/13 Lead RP
with Sam Wimpenny
SamWimpenny ??/2013 Lead RP
Hidden ??/2013 -
smollett 24/May/12 TR
with paul
sam.sam.sam.ferguson 23/Aug/11 TR O/S
with Stu Ferguson
Simnel 30/May/11 TR
with Tony S
Anthony1 30/May/11 TR
with Hannah L, John L
Pohil ??/2011 -
KevB 16/Sep/10 TR dog


with Chris M
Hidden 12/Aug/10 Lead RP
JohnTheMountainGoat 05/Aug/10 TR dnf
mikecollins 25/Jun/10 TR β
with stg
Hidden 18/May/10 Lead RP
hawkins321 18/May/10 Lead RP
David Bulley 22/Apr/10 TR dog

Muddy and dirty, slipping everywhere.

Hidden 20/Aug/09 Solo
jonny taylor 30/Jun/09 TR rpt
Peter Holder 21/May/09 Lead O/S
with Andy Wallace; Adam Rawlings
jonny taylor 02/Apr/09 TR RP

Got it done at last. A very useful crimp for the move off the traverse has fallen off over the winter. At present the scar is sharp enough to get reasonable friction on it...

with Andy B
Snowy 29/Aug/08 TR dnf

Very challenging for a beginer like me but was very fun trying to climb to the top unfortuneatley i was only able to make it half way, due to poor technique and lack of experience. But hopefully soon i'll be able to get to the top

with Chris Muncaster
Hidden 16/Aug/08 TR
jonny taylor ?/Apr/08 TR dnf

Crimp after the traverse was soaking wet and slimy

with James B
jonny taylor ?/Apr/08 TR dnf

Got as far as the final overhang and couldn't work it out in failing light. Third time lucky hopefully...

with Andy W, Andy B
Hidden 03/May/07 TR O/S
John Pickles 19/Apr/96 TR
Hidden ??/1993 -
Hidden ?/Oct/87 -
Hidden 14/May/86 Lead O/S
Steve Crowe ?/Jun/80 Lead O/S
Hidden ??/1980 -
telemark ??/1978 TR
beaumap ??/1978 TR
Paula Hamilton-Gibson ??/1972 -
with Ed Thompson
Lord of Starkness ??/1971 TR
with Ed Thompson
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, beckywecky, robbiewoods
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