Empire*** E3 6a
[Rod after Empire, 2 kb]There is a new thread and peg belay after the 1st pitch. There is a new peg on the top pitch. It is arguably better to do 1st pitch of Totalitarian then traverse right to belay.

Ticklists: Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain.

Photo: Rod after Empire © Dave Fletcher
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This climb is in 42 logbooks, and on 7 wishlists.

A very good route but needs more traffic. First pitch isn't really there under the veg so did P1 of Totalitarian (tricky route finding). Belayed on the Totalitarian stance - it's a bit off to the side from O2 but the belay is much better. Andre led P3 - requires a careful approach, especially as it was quite dirty. Nice to second as mostly technical rather than physical. A good E3 5c. I got crux pitch - short and sharp. The peg looked quite good but can be backed up if need be. A fairly hard and varied sequence - a physical pull to get past the peg followed by some sketchy balancy moves. No gear for a while but it gets easier. Ab point could do with new tat.
Misha - AltLd O/S - 08/Aug/15 with Andrew

Andrew Wilson - AltLd - 08/Aug/15 with Misha

Climbed the first pitch which is absolutely horrible, DO NOT DO IT. Ended up completely stuck, tied myself to a tiny tree and brought my second up to sort it out and he finally got us to the proper thread and peg belay, then traversed over to Totalitarian and did second pitch of that.
alexjz - Lead dnf - 29/Sep/13 with Matt Burdekin

First pitch is a dirty, dirty sandbag. Advise against this pitch. Took a ten metre lob onto the belay ledge. Very intense.
tlmarjot - Lead dnf - 12/Aug/12 with Mark Almack, Chris Todd

P2 only. Very good climbing, but a little dirty
markalmack - Lead O/S - 12/Aug/12 with tim marjot, chris todd

khawk - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/12 with DT

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Aug/11

Abseiled into the stance at the start of the second pitch. Tried to lead in one pitch but fell off. Also fell off seconding top pitch...pretty poor effort.
Graham Iles - AltLd - 23/Jul/11 with Nick Wharton

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/11

First pitch of Totalitarian, then half second pitch and then some more of Totn, then dark so abbed off! Not as clean as it needs to be really....
Chad123 - AltLd dnf - 18/Sep/09 with Emily

Seymore Butt - 2009

ewen - Lead dog - 15/Aug/08 with the kettle

first pitch is overgrown. 2nd pitch is dirty but just about ok. poor peg on last pitch. shame as it should be a good route.
ewen - AltLd dnf - 24/Jul/08 with the kettle

John Kettle - AltLd dnf - 24/Jul/08

whispering nic - AltLd - 17/Jul/06 with Pitcairn

simon cox - 2000

Hidden - AltLd - Aug/99

mikedelderfield - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/96 with Steven Delderfield

ste_d - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/96 with mik

Hidden - Lead - 1995

circa 1991
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 1991

Hidden - 1990

Rich Kirby - AltLd O/S - 1988 with Ray Kelly

Hidden - Lead rpt - 21/Aug/87

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Sep/86

led to above the peg on the last pitch but a finger tendon was strained so I jumped off. Finished it in 1988 with George Reah.
Paula Hamilton-Gibson - AltLd dnf - 1986 with Andy Hyslop

keefe - 07/Jul/85

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/85

Hidden - AltLd - 30/Jun/85

Hidden - 2nd - 15/Jun/85

Bruce Kerr - 2nd - 19/May/85 with Perric Crellin

Hidden - 1985

Hammy - 2nd - 30/Apr/84 with Ian Cooksey

MH - Lead O/S - 1984

Hidden - Lead - 1984

Mike Owen - 19/Jun/83 with Steve Foxley

Hidden - Lead - 03/Jul/82

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 31/May/82 with Chris Calow

Hidden - AltLd - Jul/81

Good route done during the drought of '80
KRB - Lead O/S - 17/May/80 with Doncaster Climbing Club

redjerry - Lead O/S - May/80 with Roy Williamson

Led crux! first e3.
ian caton - AltLd O/S - Aug/78 with Pat Mcvay

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
WhipperSnapper, Andrew Wilson, IanJackson, Ed Booth, ewen

Total votes cast 9
hard E40 of 3
E40 of 3
easy E40 of 3
hard E33 of 3
E30 of 3
easy E30 of 3
hard E20 of 3
E20 of 3
easy E20 of 3
hard 6b0 of 3
6b0 of 3
easy 6b0 of 3
hard 6a0 of 3
6a3 of 3
easy 6a0 of 3
hard 5c0 of 3
5c0 of 3
easy 5c0 of 3
3 Stars3 of 3
2 Stars0 of 3
1 Star0 of 3
0 Stars0 of 3
Bag of .....0 of 3
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