Totalitarian*** E1 5c
[Mark Johnston on Totalitarian, 2 kb]4 pitches. A four pitch beauty. A contender for best E1 in England with four contrasting pitches. 1. 5a. Better than it looks with good rough rock. 2. 5b. A superb delicate groove. 3. 4c. An exposed rightward traverse is not easy to lead or follow. 4. 5c. From the fine stance climb past the peg with difficulty.

Ticklists: Hard Rock, MIA logbook must haves!, Kendal Wall's Best 100 climbs in Britain, Ultimate E1 ticklist.

Photo: Mark Johnston on Totalitarian © awsomal

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 131 logbooks, and on 38 wishlists.

Lead Pitches 1 and 3. From below it looks like pitch 1 will be a vertical garden, but it's not that bad when you work out where to actually start.
MarkRoe - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/14 with Ben Roe

p2 + 4, cracking stuff
BRoe - AltLd O/S - 24/Sep/14 with Mark Roe

nedly - AltLd - 22/Sep/14 with Pete

Lead pitches 1,3 and 4. In good condition, pretty clean, good peg on final pitch. Crux was getting up through the trees to the start of the route!
Abi Chard - AltLd O/S - 07/Sep/14 with Alison Cairns

Bit of an epic, led p1,p2,p4. Dislocated my thumb on the last pitch. Pitch 1 is steep but not as bold as the guidebook suggests, I got plenty of good gear in, pitch 2 is hard and pitch 4 is very tricky.
Martin Haworth - AltLd - 27/Aug/14 with Stephen

PaulTanton - AltLd rpt - 26/Jul/14 with Dennis Gleeson

Hidden - AltLd - 24/Jul/14

The exit crack is slimy.
Pohil - Lead O/S - 15/Jul/14 with Ed Watson

Best E1 on Raven Crag, maybe. . . .Scarily reminiscent of Dwm, just easier on the crux and not as good. Fantastic mushrooms though!
philhilo - AltLd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Helen E

Seconded 2nd pitch, finished up the VS as there was already a party on the final pitch
alexjz - 2nd O/S - 29/Sep/13 with Matt Burdekin

guy757 - 28/Sep/13

centurion05 - AltLd O/S - 26/Aug/13 with Ben thynne

P1+4
joe_lancs - AltLd O/S - 14/Aug/13

Hidden - AltLd - 14/Aug/13

led pitch 1 and backed up then led pitch 3 and pulled on gear on pitch 4 not my day for climbing.... crag itself is amazing and also the route is great. pitch 4 crux is in such good position and it's well protected.
JanBella - AltLd dog - 08/Aug/13 with simon

Hidden - AltLd - 22/Jul/13

P1, 2 & 4.
dicky79 - AltLd O/S - 21/Jul/13 with James D

Hidden - 2nd - 21/Jul/13

Kev led pitch 1,3&4, I led pitch 2 which was great climbing. Felt solid E1 and was almost too much for me but managed to hang on in there and get through the crux. Felt it only fair to give Kev the top pitch. Seconded it fine and could have led it. Fantastic route start to finish, would happily do it again. First pitch didn't feel grassy or bold though approaching the route is horrid!
Lessworkmoreclimbing - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Kev

Started up as the previous party got back to the base, hence a slightly late finish involving headtorches and missing last orders. But had a top time. Still a bit dirty here and there.
airborne - AltLd O/S - 16/Jul/13 with Huw Davies

Awesome climb, last pitch was so much if and quite scary!
NiccyMac - AltLd O/S - 14/Jul/13 with Matt Reeve

beautiful route. first pitch dirty but otherwise clean. fantastic final pitch
fatboyblim - AltLd - 10/Jul/13 with tony

Hidden - Lead O/S - 08/Jun/13

Did not do top pitch (out of time). Fantastic first 3 pitches tho! Would love to go back and finish route
peter.ravenscroft27 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/13 with Sean Holmes

Hidden - Apr/13

captain - 2013

andybirtwistle - 2013

greglad - 2013

Em66 - AltLd - 2013

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 12/Aug/12

P1 Totalitarian, P2 Empire, P3 Totalitarian. Awesome climbing. P2 of Totalitarian looks cracking
tlmarjot - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with Mark Almack, Chris Todd

Pitches 1&3 only
markalmack - 2nd O/S - 12/Aug/12 with tim marjot, chris todd

Dunx - AltLd - 03/Aug/12 with Joe M

martrin - AltLd - 29/May/12 with Colin Smith

Johann - Lead O/S - 2012

Stewart Armstrong - 2012

JonG - 2012

Stone Idol - 2012

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Sep/11

amazing route. apart from the scramble start. the last pitch was ace. thought we were going to have to back off because of rain, but just about stayed dry enough.
WB - AltLd O/S - 29/Aug/11 with Guy

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/11

Lead pitches one, two and four. Incredible last pitch
Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Mark D

Mark D - AltLd O/S - 20/Aug/11 with Laurence Everitt

GuyM - AltLd - Aug/11 with will

beci tointen - Lead O/S - Aug/11 with Jamie Kean

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11

Hidden - AltLd - 25/Jul/11

samrad - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11 with james G

Lord_ash2000 - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/11 with John Maskell

such a cock, pulled on the peg rather than committing to the couple of moves needed. stupid. the rest of the route was great. ill be back.
tomhull - Lead dog - 23/Jul/11 with Ben Scraggs

cooperman - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/11 with Greg Foster

Nigel Coe - AltLd - 12/Jul/11 with Steve Venables

Hidden - 2011

Hidden - 2011

GeoffG - 2011

Glenn Sutcliffe - 2011

Hidden - 2011

wet and slimy, particularly 3rd pitch. I led 1st and 3rd pitches. Was very necky given the conditions but first 3 pitches cleanly led. We then abbed off in the dark from 3rd belay.
Andrew Wilson - AltLd O/S - 07/Nov/10 with Tony Womersley

Did the first 2 pitches of Communist Convert and the final pitch of Totalitarian. Really enjoyed it.
GPN - Lead O/S - 09/Oct/10 with Annette

Top pitch only having done Communist Convert. Had rather a tight rope for this...
net - 2nd - 09/Oct/10 with George

tim newton - AltLd O/S - 04/Jun/10 with harri melhuish

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 2010

Hidden - 27/Sep/09

SiW - Lead - 27/Sep/09

Hidden - 27/Sep/09

very dirty,nice top pitch but soaking wet and full of moss..hard to see why this gets 3 stars!...loads of ticks and midge..
Christian Beck - Lead - 2009

Bob - 2009

Seymore Butt - 2009

gforce - AltLd - 27/Sep/08 with Kath

Confessional: because we were getting benighted I just blasted through the last pitch and pulled on the peg to save time :-(! 5a 5b 4b 5c, led first and 3rd pitches. Went off-route on the first pitch to begin with. A classic route for sure but my experience was slightly blighted by being short of time. Cowboys - didn't even take our headtorches up the crag with us! Numpties!
Andy S - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/08 with Nick

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 07/Oct/07

Luke Brooks - AltLd - 10/Aug/07 with Rob Grant

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 01/Aug/07

Best route i have ever done in the lakes. Easy for the grade.
IanJackson - AltLd - 30/Jul/07 with Robeverybody

Pretty good route, but not really three stars due to mossy rock in places. First two pitches are best with sustained steep wall and groove climbing. Plenty of ticks and midges detract from the experience too....
Chad123 - AltLd O/S - 23/Jun/07 with Emily

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 06/Jun/07

A bit dirty but still awesome!
Shaw Brown - AltLd - 02/Jun/07 with David Jones

wasnt climbing very well, was cold so pulled on peg on crux.
The Pylon King - AltLd dog - Jun/07 with Martin L

Best E1 in the realm....Shame you can't spell it properly..
Ian Jones - Lead O/S - 2007 with Karen Ghiselli

petegunn - Lead - 2007

Hidden - Lead O/S - 02/Jul/06

fritz_in_aotearoa - 2006

simon kimber - AltLd O/S - 2006 with Adam Gill

John Kettle - AltLd - 2005

ewen - AltLd O/S - 2005 with the kettle

Hidden - AltLd - 17/Oct/03

Done before.
Steve Crowe - Lead O/S - 17/Aug/03 with KM

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 26/Jun/03

whispering nic - AltLd - Apr/03 with Graham Doig

whispering nic - AltLd - Apr/03 with Graham Doig

First pitch not to be taken lightly. We had an excellent experience on this. Clean, dry, top quality rock and line. Top pitch is Out There.
chrishedgehog - AltLd - 2003 with Dan Bailey

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Sep/02

Hidden - 1999

phardman - 20/Jul/97

Andy Say - Lead - 31/Aug/96

Dave Musgrove Jnr - AltLd - 18/Aug/95 with Nick Ashton

rob.grafton - Lead - 25/Jun/95 with Bruce

Hidden - Lead - 1995

Lead P2 & 4
Mick King - AltLd - 05/Sep/93 with Simon Walsh

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 1992

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Jun/91

Hidden - AltLd - 05/Aug/90

Hidden - 1990

Steve Lenartowicz - 1990

Hidden - 1990

PaulTanton - AltLd O/S - Dec/89 with Mark Hounslea

Dave Rumney - 02/Jul/89 with Brian Wilderspin

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 17/Jun/89 with Dan Morgan

Rich Kirby - Lead - 1988 with Ray Kelly

scree - 1987

William Robertson - Lead O/S - 1986 with Emily, Steve, Shaun etc

neilh - Lead - 08/Jun/85 with dave croker

Lone Rider - AltLd - 08/Sep/84 with Alan Shand

MH - Lead O/S - 1984

MH - Lead O/S - 1984

Paul Clarke - Lead - 1984 with Various

Mike Owen - 19/Jun/83 with Steve Foxley

Hidden - Lead - 29/May/82

Hammy - AltLd - 30/Aug/81 with Rob Lawson, Jonathon Stacey

Hidden - AltLd - 10/May/80

Bruce Kerr - Lead - 10/May/80 with Dave Page

redjerry - AltLd O/S - May/80 with Roy Williamson

robinsi197 - 1980 with Barbara

Mark Kemball - AltLd - 20/May/78 with Richard Lang

ian caton - AltLd O/S - 1978


Pedro50 - Lead O/S - 04/Jul/77 with Peter Douglas

Hidden - AltLd - 19/Oct/75

Spoiled for me because it was the first 'chalked-up' route that I had followed. We were rained off after this route - so the next party would have enjoyed clean rock.
Falko - Lead O/S - 12/Jul/75 with Al W.

Paula Hamilton-Gibson - Lead - 1973 with Will Walker

mikej - AltLd dnf - 10/May/70 with Wil Hurford

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Owen W-G, hutchay, Gary Coggon, Phil Ingle, climbalive, nigel pearson, CM1992, Spooner2709, gavinpeach, Gudge, iceaxejuggler, Jonathan Spooner, Charlie Zephyr Booth, Calder, twoplates, jl, George Bassant, stimpey, oliverthomp, Trobbo

Voting
Total votes cast 81
hard E20 of 28
E20 of 28
easy E23 of 28
hard E19 of 28
E116 of 28
easy E10 of 28
hard HVS0 of 28
HVS0 of 28
easy HVS0 of 28
hard 6a0 of 27
6a0 of 27
easy 6a0 of 27
hard 5c3 of 27
5c17 of 27
easy 5c6 of 27
hard 5b1 of 27
5b0 of 27
easy 5b0 of 27
3 Stars19 of 26
2 Stars5 of 26
1 Star1 of 26
0 Stars1 of 26
Bag of .....0 of 26
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Style of ascent

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