No description has been contributed for this climb.

Liegard, O'Gorman, Ravanel and Couttet 23/Jul/1906

Ticklists: Rebuffat's 100 Finest Routes in the Mont Blanc Massif.

Hidden 27/Aug/15 AltLd O/S
tradguy 26/Aug/15 2nd β
mcaterina 26/Aug/15 Lead
QuentinSu 25/Aug/15 Lead O/S
Stuart Johnston 24/Jul/15 Lead O/S

Climbed the top pitches via the salle a manger. 4b is about the right grade but relatively sustained at this grade, so I thought harder than AD. Lots of people were in rock boots for these pitches (although we were in big boots and it was fine). The descent is quite long. Our guide book mentioned raps to get you back to the Salle a Manger from the summit, but if you do this you need to down climb a relatively horizontal traverse. On the way up we saw people rapping straight down from the base of the summit abseils, but we missed these. Storm broke as we hit the summit which meant for a long, cold 0 viz descent.

with Lara Kesterton
Suzana 16/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Agnieszka Wilkon
Hidden 05/Jul/15 2nd
MoWalker3 06/Sep/14 Lead dnf

Reached the top of an icy couloir above the poor rock traverse then retreated due to time constraints.

with IanC
Hidden 10/Aug/14 AltLd dnf
thegoatstroker 17/Jul/14 AltLd dnf

Turned back having gone wrong near top and taken too long

with Chris Cox
Hidden 15/Aug/13 AltLd
Margaret 24/Jul/13 2nd
with Rich (Alpine Guides)
PtereBradley ?/Jul/13 2nd dnf

Had to alter rout and finish early due to traffic

with Phil Dowthwaite
walts4 ??/2013 -
Hidden 27/Aug/12 AltLd dnf
Hidden 03/Aug/12 2nd O/S
Hidden 03/Aug/12 Lead
bullwinkle 11/Jul/11 AltLd O/S

Started up Lepidopteres

with Bart
tebs 11/Jul/11 AltLd

After Lepidopteres. Long and faffy but quite good. Sensational summit ridge.

with Tim
masa-alpin 15/Oct/10 AltLd O/S

Completed the route itself in 3 hours 10 minutes (7 hours 10 min for the round trip from/to Midi Plan station). Although the route was partly snow-covered, we managed with climbing shoes. Near the summit I went off route, ending up in a good HVS 5a crack, followed by a chimney lead by Max, which lead to the main summit directly (bypassing the sub-peak). Abseiled off on the clean slab.

with Max C
Hidden 06/Sep/10 -
Pat-H 09/Aug/10 2nd
Hidden ??/2010 -
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead
CarolineH ?/Aug/09 -
with Dave
reima ?/Aug/09 AltLd dnf

Started with Lépidoptères to gain the top of Papillon ridge and wandered along the normal route until the last gendarme, at which we met some other half-lost climbers and a returning guide with a client. The general consensus was that it was better to turn back at that hour.

with Nora, Niamh
Hidden ?/Aug/09 Lead
tebs 25/Jul/09 -

Not sure if this is what we were on we had no guidebook. Accessed from easy terrases above papillons, walked round these to traverse under a slabby face overlooking le ticket, then up an icy gully and onto an arete that had some tricky pitches, certainly felt harder than anything on the papillons. Bailed close to the top. complicated descent, some loose and icy downclimbing in rock shoes. Didn't enjoy it much.

with Tim and Eero
Misha 16/Jul/09 AltLd O/S

Was in a three with Dave and Mike but that didn't slow us down that much as we mostly moved together. Route finding was tricky though. Crux pitch was fine but then I went off route by following a line more or less straight up from the belay rather than traversing to the right. This was harder than the normal crux and then had to ab off a little ridge to get back on the route, so lost time. Didn't actually quite get to the summit as decided to turn back in the hope of getting the last cable car down (I got to within about 10 metres of the summit before abbing back). The descent took ages though as we had to reverse the entire route to collect axes and crampons (which proved unnecessary as it was possible to get up the neve in big boots, should have checked in the OHM), so we only got to the Plan around 9pm and decided to stay in the hut for the night as didn't fancy the walk down. The nice guardien prepared a meal for us even at this late hour. Big boots all the way of course.

Hidden ?/Jul/09 AltLd
JonHarvey ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

From the top of the Papillons ridge

Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
Paul-Michael 20/Jul/03 AltLd O/S

Diccon tried to climb South-West Ridge and kept going for 1 1/2 hrs. We had a spageti moment with the rope.

with Peter Collins, Diccon Proctor
stokesrees ??/1997 Lead
with Ryan Brown
ericinbristol ?/Jul/96 AltLd O/S

Started up Lépidoptères (Aiguille du Peigne).

with Richard Nadin
Hidden ?/Aug/94 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/93 AltLd O/S
John Marsland 12/Aug/85 Solo
mark-abz ?/Jul/80 AltLd
with descent route
Rob Davies ?/Aug/75 AltLd dnf

Lost route, ended up below steep ground above Col du Peigne.

with Niall Macfadyen
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Hidden, Hidden, Timothy Miller, dan wisey, Hidden
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