Central Buttress - VS Route*** VS
[Mary underneath penultimate pitch of VS Route, 2 kb]280m, 8 pitches. No description has been contributed for this climb.

Ticklists: Scottish Mid-Grade Multi-Pitch, Scottish 3 and 4 star multi-pitch routes.

Photo: Mary underneath penultimate pitch of VS Route © Captain Solo
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This climb is in 34 logbooks, and on 32 wishlists.

Even after a reasonable period of dry weather the corner was wet and we therefore found it very hard. The quartzite was easy in comparison and we did the six quartzite pitches quicker than the two sandstone ones!
Robertgiddy - Lead - 21/Sep/14

"Classic" day out. The sandstone corner is very hard for the grade with the amount of gear left in it testament to that. Always wet? - I would guess so.
arose - AltLd - 13/Sep/14 with Scott Brooks

rob16 - AltLd O/S - 27/Jun/14

Via the "Slab climb" start to Hamilton's Route, as the big corner on the sandstone tier was wet.
freudy_love - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Stewart Munro

Via the start of Hamiltons due to wet lower pitches. I lead all the 4a pitches.
telemarker - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/13 with Paul Freudenthal

Narked4fun - Lead O/S - 2013 with Keith Bell

Did first pitch in horrible wet seeping conditions, meandering off route to find dry rock. Little protection here so a good head needed although easier climbing (if you stay on route... which I didn't and ended up following unprotected but dryish rock). Second pitch soaking wet too so traversed across unpleasantly on slippery wet grass to start up Hamiltons. Hamiltons turned out to be a small waterfall, so escaped half way up into the gully through another tricky traverse. Recommend if you want to do this clean, it needs to be dry for a good period beforehand otherwise it will seep for ages. Or just skip the sandstone entirely. Can't comment on the quartzite because we'd had enough of faffing around on the sandstone tiers and thought we'd save the rest for another day. Next time will skip the sandstone entirely.
wkrzys - Lead dnf - 26/Aug/12

Started up Hamilton's Route to Broad Terrace as the first pitches of VS Route and Piggot's looked wet, Hamilton's was wet anyway. Back following VS route, Fin linked the first two quartzite pitches and I almost linked the next two, needing only a short scramble to reach the next belay. The last two pitches were brilliant, with a steep juggy wall to finish in an amazing position!
Dougie Harvey - AltLd - 06/Jul/12

Wet, slimy, not keen...
Tightsgirl - AltLd dnf - 03/Jul/12 with Ali Rose

Backed off in wet sliminess. Started raining.
arose - AltLd dnf - 03/Jul/12 with Hannah Francis

Lead p1 and p3
RocKalina - AltLd - 26/May/12 with climberandy

Central Corner, Sandstone. Bone dry, waited a few years for this, compelling climbing and harder with rucsacs. Finished up Pigott's Route.
Captain Solo - AltLd - 03/May/11 with Kenny

Hidden - AltLd - 03/May/11

Corner pitch was just incredible. Maybe it was because it was early season, but the unbelievable chossiness of some of the quartzite pitches did detract a bit from the very nice sections of clean rock on the upper parts. Big day out.
jonny taylor - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Andy B

ablackett - AltLd O/S - 30/Apr/11 with Jonny

great position but a little disappointed with the actual climbing. the quartzite is awesome rock though! lower tier dripping so went up west central gully to start
tomdude - AltLd - 10/Aug/10 with lawrence

wence - AltLd O/S - 10/Aug/10 with Tom

tallthinmonkey - AltLd O/S - 10/Jul/10 with Rafa

Quartzite tier only.
Captain Solo - Lead - 26/Jun/10 with Mary

Did the VS Route on the Sandstone tier then mixed and matched from Piggots and Hamiltons routes on Quartzite Tier. Long long day.
WilliamBurnside - AltLd - 19/Jun/10 with Robert Manby

Really nice, loved the sandstone corner pitch.
shugsan - AltLd O/S - 05/Jun/10 with SB

Fergus Cuthill - AltLd - 18/Apr/09 with CalumC + Ash

lyndseymackay - 2nd - 18/Apr/09 with burton

burto - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with lyndsey

Climbing improves as you go up! led 1st pitch of sandstone corner, 1st pitch of quartzite and last 2 pitches. Ash came up as a 3rd. Ian and Lyndsey climbed above us.
CalumC - AltLd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with Fergus Cuthill

ashvin - 2nd O/S - 18/Apr/09 with CalumC, fergus

Dr Rorlasaurus - 2nd - 01/Jun/08

sonaf - 2nd - 01/Jun/08 with Malc & Petzl

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/May/08

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

Started on the sandstone tier (VS, 4c) which was wet. After this failed to find Hamiltons route so back tracked to the Pigots route. After the fist few pitches moved over easy ground and headed up what we think was the winter line, felt about VS 4c in places at the top. Good route, would love to go back and do Pigots proper.
Jamie Simpson - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Andy Munro

Bruce Kerr - AltLd - 10/Aug/96 with Alex Taylor, Ali Callum

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Mar/94

Hidden - AltLd - 28/Aug/86

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
callumwaddell, Andy Hewison, TrollJester, GaryK, timmyhobby, Becky E, CM1992, SUColdo, j.richards, peter.herd, markolst, sleeplessjb, simonjkinsella, lostinmidlands, Chris Sansum

Total votes cast 10
hard HVS0 of 5
HVS1 of 5
easy HVS0 of 5
hard VS0 of 5
VS4 of 5
easy VS0 of 5
hard HS0 of 5
HS0 of 5
easy HS0 of 5
3 Stars1 of 5
2 Stars4 of 5
1 Star0 of 5
0 Stars0 of 5
Bag of .....0 of 5
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Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Clean O/S