750m, 25 pitches. An awesome climb, following a series of interesting cracks to a two-thrid height ledge. From here you have some of the best climbing of your life to the top, from finger-locking to off-widthing, every kind of perfect jamming can be experience.


Addison, Cordier, Fagard and Jouty 06/Jul/1970

Misha 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S


with Nic
Hidden 23/Aug/14 AltLd O/S
Hidden 12/Aug/14 Lead dnf
monsteratt 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Bit spooked by stonefall on the approach. Some great pitches some nice slabs and flake cracks in lower half then amazing cracks and great rock on the final buttress. Worth all the effort and stress of getting there. 10 hours to the top and too many abbing down. Ropes stuck abbing into nothing resulted in late/dark/epic finish :-(

with Nick Whimster
nickwhimster 25/Jul/13 AltLd O/S

Mont led out the top three pitches. v cool but very unnerved by listening to the rockfall all night at the bivi!

Hidden 16/Jul/13 AltLd dnf
jcw ??/2013 -
Hidden 22/Jun/12 AltLd O/S
Hidden 27/Sep/11 AltLd dnf
Hidden ?/Aug/11 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/11 Lead
guy757 17/Jul/11 AltLd
Petarghh 12/Jul/11 AltLd
Jack Loftus 12/Jul/11 AltLd
with Nick
Cardi 12/Jul/11 AltLd dnf

As Pete said. Did a lot of climbing, got beyond ledge. Great climbing. Thought best to abseil off, rather than continue to top.

Hidden 12/Jul/11 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Jul/11 -
Hidden 25/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
alpinist63 12/Aug/09 AltLd rpt
Bristoldave ?/Aug/09 Lead O/S
with Jon Hauser
Ally Baba 26/Jul/09 AltLd
with Gav Swinton
Hidden 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
Phil Jennings 26/Jul/09 AltLd O/S
with Tom Nichols
Hidden 21/Aug/08 AltLd O/S
tommytuffa 21/Aug/08 AltLd
with ollie b, Chris Fisher
Franco Cookson OLD 05/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

awesome, the best climbing you'll do. did it a couple of hours under guidebook time. nearly got hit by a uge rockfall- cutting our rope on the last rap. Luckily all five of us were unscathed- the biggest block was the size of a bus- crater picture to come. :-)

with Ian, Luke, Tom ripus and will
Hidden ?/Aug/08 AltLd
lukehunt ?/Aug/08 AltLd O/S

simul-climbed the top third, best climbing i've done!

with francocookson
clams ??/2008 AltLd
with Steve
featuresforfeet 18/Aug/07 -

Only got to the halfway ledges. Seconded vast majority of pitches.

with Tobias at Home
Tobias at Home 18/Aug/07 Lead dnf

turned around at ledges. couldn't be arsed with a bivvy and we would have been benighted...

with featuresforfeet
Nicos 24/Jul/07 Lead dnf

reached the ledges

Tobias at Home 15/Jul/07 Lead dnf

ran out of steam just below halfway ledge.

with Bag
Pete Graham ??/2007 AltLd
Grezza ?/Jul/05 AltLd

Amazing route

with Paul E
Hidden ?/Sep/04 -
Scotsken ?/Jun/04 -
akhughes ??/2004 AltLd O/S
with Steptoe
Phil Ingle 16/Jun/03 AltLd O/S
with Stuart Bygrave
NeilGriffiths ?/Aug/02 AltLd
with James Hubbard
Hidden ??/1998 -
tjekel ??/1998 -
Guy ?/Aug/97 AltLd O/S

Up and down walking from the valley in a day.

with Adrian
Hidden ??/1996 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/95 AltLd
crossleysm ??/1995 AltLd
with Guy Maddox
craig h ?/Aug/94 AltLd
with Jim Mellor
Hidden 05/Aug/93 AltLd
michaelja ?/Aug/92 AltLd

with Frank Merkenhof

frost ?/Jul/91 AltLd
with Stone
Hidden ??/1990 AltLd O/S
Hidden 07/Aug/89 Lead
Hidden ?/Aug/89 AltLd
michael burrows 31/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
with steve williams
Hidden 31/Jul/88 AltLd O/S
GaryK ?/Aug/87 AltLd O/S

Excellent route, especially the top pitches on the head wall. The ledges at 2/3rd height were a bit scrappy, but the top was worth it. Bivied at a flat spot at the bottom of the glacier. Came back to find goat shit all over my Karrimat. Took 2 years to get rid of the smell.

with Simon
AlexRenshaw ?/Jul/87 -
Richard Weller 05/Jul/86 -

Stupendous route

with john sanders
John Marsland 09/Aug/85 AltLd dnf

badly iced, abbed off from below the summit buttress

with Dave Soles
Hidden ?/Aug/83 AltLd
Hidden ?/Aug/82 AltLd
Hidden 04/Aug/81 AltLd
alpinist63 ??/1981 -
Hidden ?/Aug/79 AltLd
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Votes cast 9
Votes cast 10
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Alt Leads
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