We're Only Here for the Smear* E4 5c
9m. Start up the arete then balance out right along the lip to a finger hold and friction up to the midway ledge. Finish easily. Not bad, at least on a top rope, and often green - care required. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 45 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

More precarious & grip-worthy than I anticipated. Contemplated onsight attempt but was so green & scrittly decided to clean it on shunt first. Glad I did: on solo foot still almost unstuck when shifting bodyweight on crux smear. Had scary moment before regaining balance. Two other boulderers had arrived as I was setting off & added their mats. Luckily not required - but it was close!
Andy Clarke - Solo RP - 30/Sep/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Aug/14

Green and covered in lichen, made it a bit more interesting, but still only felt 5b, maybe try for a solo when it's in condition.
Deezel65 - TR O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Alex Burton-Keeble

decked from last move of the crux, good spot by rach
admackie - 18/Apr/14 with sexy rach

admackie - 15/Dec/13

Hidden - TR - 27/May/13

Really good hardest part was the first smear after that it just makes sense to keep going.
Jake Young - Solo O/S - 22/May/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/12

Stefan_Morris - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/12

AndrewJamesCherry - TR - 11/Mar/12

Bloody brilliant. i will be back to lead it at some point!
Fraser hill-casey - TR O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Sent β - 11/Mar/12

Jen 'Banksy' Banks - TR dog - 11/Mar/12 with Andy Cherry

tried, slipped on all the lichen, fell to the ground. next time
mattorford - Solo dnf - 25/Feb/12

riddle - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/11

AMarchant - TR O/S - 25/May/11 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - Solo - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/10

Had to try this, as it looked peasy from the ground... that will be because all the holds point down then. Still, great moves, one to aspire to without the rope.
kitkat78 - TR O/S - 30/May/10 with Andy K, SteveM

Alpandy - TR - 30/May/10 with Steve and Kat

freudy_love - TR O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Crazy Rob, Jim Baird, Jamie Murray

WendyT - TR O/S - 03/Oct/09 with James Marsh

Solo, a bit green, i had to clean on my way up.
Karl Wooffindin - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/09

highrepute - Solo RP - 16/Jul/09

Hidden - TR - 14/Apr/09

Lordcarr - TR O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Emma and Spencer

great route, precarious. no mats just a spotter. feels easier than chalk storm but somehow more serious??
SGD - Solo O/S - 22/Nov/08

Hidden - Solo - 24/Oct/08

PenJD - Solo O/S - 24/Oct/08 with Oli

strange. the smears themselves are actually about 45 degrees, but somehow it's a bit spooky!
Col Allott - Solo O/S - 25/Sep/08

Lewis Stewart - Solo O/S - Aug/08 with Eddie and Claire

alaan - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/08

Boy - 2008

co1ps - Solo rpt - May/07 with solo

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - TR - 21/Aug/94

Hidden - TR - 13/Jul/94

mattnuttall - Solo O/S - Mar/94

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 11/Apr/92 with Martin Veale

NeilGriffiths - 1992

Hidden - Solo - 04/Jul/91

goi.ashmore - Solo RP - 02/May/90

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai

Voting
Total votes cast 38
hard E50 of 14
E50 of 14
easy E50 of 14
hard E40 of 14
E40 of 14
easy E45 of 14
hard E31 of 14
E36 of 14
easy E31 of 14
hard E21 of 14
E20 of 14
easy E20 of 14
hard 6a0 of 14
6a0 of 14
easy 6a0 of 14
hard 5c0 of 14
5c0 of 14
easy 5c6 of 14
hard 5b3 of 14
5b4 of 14
easy 5b1 of 14
3 Stars0 of 10
2 Stars5 of 10
1 Star5 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
Please Login as Existing User to rate this climb.
Style of ascent

Soloed
Lead
Followed
Toproped
Bouldered
Unknown
Climbed
Clean O/S
Clean β
Clean rpt
Clean RP
dogged
dnf