We're Only Here for the Smear* E3 5b
9m.

Rockfax Description
Start up the arete then balance out right along the lip to a finger-hold and friction up to the midway ledge. Finish easily. Technically easy enough but often green. © ROCKFAX

Ticklists: Burbage, Millstone and Beyond Routes Graded List.

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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 49 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

Nick told me his beta and I used it so can't claim an onsight. Above one pad.
amccann - Solo β - 21/May/15 with Nick

great route, a good test of nerves that needs a good clean to get the traffic it deserves.
Nick1812P - Solo O/S - 16/May/15 with Micki, Fran

After Nick did it. Probably couldn't have done it without his beta.
MSchobitz - Solo β - 16/May/15 with Nick Priestley, Fran Hammond

mark20 - Solo β - 22/Feb/15

More precarious & grip-worthy than I anticipated. Contemplated onsight attempt but was so green & scrittly decided to clean it on shunt first. Glad I did: on solo foot still almost unstuck when shifting bodyweight on crux smear. Had scary moment before regaining balance. Two other boulderers had arrived as I was setting off & added their mats. Luckily not required - but it was close!
Andy Clarke - Solo RP - 30/Sep/14

Hidden - TR O/S - 16/Aug/14

Green and covered in lichen, made it a bit more interesting, but still only felt 5b, maybe try for a solo when it's in condition.
Deezel65 - TR O/S - 13/Jul/14 with Alex Burton-Keeble

decked from last move of the crux, good spot by rach
admackie - 18/Apr/14 with sexy rach

admackie - 15/Dec/13

Hidden - TR - 27/May/13

Really good hardest part was the first smear after that it just makes sense to keep going.
Jake Young - Solo O/S - 22/May/13

Hidden - Solo O/S - 08/May/12

Stefan_Morris - Solo O/S - 11/Mar/12

AndrewJamesCherry - TR - 11/Mar/12

Bloody brilliant. i will be back to lead it at some point!
Fraser hill-casey - TR O/S - 11/Mar/12

Hidden - Sent β - 11/Mar/12

Jen 'Banksy' Banks - TR dog - 11/Mar/12 with Andy Cherry

tried, slipped on all the lichen, fell to the ground. next time
mattorford - Solo dnf - 25/Feb/12

riddle - Lead O/S - 30/Jul/11 with Yasmina

Hidden - 2nd - 30/Jul/11

Hidden - TR O/S - 25/May/11

AMarchant - TR O/S - 25/May/11 with Ally Hurst

Hidden - Solo O/S - 02/Apr/11

Hidden - Solo - 20/Oct/10

Hidden - Solo O/S - 20/Oct/10

Had to try this, as it looked peasy from the ground... that will be because all the holds point down then. Still, great moves, one to aspire to without the rope.
kitkat78 - TR O/S - 30/May/10 with Andy K, SteveM

Alpandy - TR - 30/May/10 with Steve and Kat

freudy_love - TR O/S - 13/Oct/09 with Crazy Rob, Jim Baird, Jamie Murray

WendyT - TR O/S - 03/Oct/09 with James Marsh

Solo, a bit green, i had to clean on my way up.
Karl Wooffindin - Solo O/S - 11/Aug/09

highrepute - Solo RP - 16/Jul/09

Hidden - TR - 14/Apr/09

Lordcarr - TR O/S - 29/Mar/09 with Emma and Spencer

great route, precarious. no mats just a spotter. feels easier than chalk storm but somehow more serious??
SGD - Solo O/S - 22/Nov/08

Hidden - Solo - 24/Oct/08

PenJD - Solo O/S - 24/Oct/08 with Oli

strange. the smears themselves are actually about 45 degrees, but somehow it's a bit spooky!
Col Allott - Solo O/S - 25/Sep/08

Lewis Stewart - Solo O/S - Aug/08 with Eddie and Claire

alaan - Solo O/S - 02/Mar/08

Boy - 2008

co1ps - Solo rpt - May/07 with solo

tuftynick - Lead - 2000

Hidden - TR - 21/Aug/94

Hidden - TR - 13/Jul/94

mattnuttall - Solo O/S - Mar/94

Chris Ellis - 2nd - 11/Apr/92 with Martin Veale

NeilGriffiths - 1992

Hidden - Solo - 04/Jul/91

goi.ashmore - Solo RP - 02/May/90

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
mapperley samurai

Voting
Total votes cast 44
hard E40 of 16
E40 of 16
easy E46 of 16
hard E31 of 16
E36 of 16
easy E32 of 16
hard E21 of 16
E20 of 16
easy E20 of 16
hard 5c0 of 16
5c0 of 16
easy 5c8 of 16
hard 5b3 of 16
5b4 of 16
easy 5b1 of 16
hard 5a0 of 16
5a0 of 16
easy 5a0 of 16
3 Stars1 of 12
2 Stars5 of 12
1 Star5 of 12
0 Stars1 of 12
Bag of .....0 of 12
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