Restricted Access
No known access issues. However Anglesey Council (who manage the coastal path that passes close to the top pf the crag) have recieved complaints from walkers, that climbers cause a hazard by belaying across the path. The neighbouring farmer has also blamed climbers for the collapse of the boundary wall, due to climbers using it to belay from. Please avoid doing this!
The land above the crag is now designated open access land.
Multiple Gul nests around the area, worth inspecting your route before commiting.
Seasonal Restrictions
Dates: 1 February to 31 July
Reason: Nesting Birds
Nesting birds occasionally appear on Wild Rover section and Choughs are know to nest somewhere near the "Tomorrow is Cancelled" route - if seen please avoid.
There is a new chough nest on Hydrophobia its an old pair that have moved around the corner, Please avoid the routes Nige's Arete to Claustrophobia gully.
Rockfax Description
A great route that keeps coming at you. Start in the back of the zawn, behind a large fallen block, near the base of a diagonal crack. Pull over the bulge to gain the crack and follow it up past some easier terrain. Move left into another line of weakness that leads to the 'Viper's Head' - the prominent 'V' in the roof. Climb this using a crack and follow it as it gets steeper to an exit at a flake. This leads out right to the base of a groove. A tricky step back left into this reaches an easier top out. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
Start as for Centrefold and follow the crackline direct and then slightly leftwards to the 'Viper' fang. Ever-steeper moves lead to a welcome rest in a niche, close to the corner of Centrefold. Pull out left across the green wall past a shallow corner and finish boldly, taking care with the rock.
Ticklists
North Wales Rock Graded List , James' 2015 Summer. , Ultimate E4 ticklist , Best of the rest and the ones that got away , Gogarth life list
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Rhoscolyn
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Television Route
Grade: E4 5c ***
(Gogarth South Stack)