1938 Route*** ED1
[Mike Brownlow on the 'Traverse of the Gods', North Face of the Eiger., 3 kb]1938 classic. 1800m, one to three or more days.
Anderl Heckmair, Ludwig Vörg, Fritz Kasparek & Heinrich Harrer 24/Jul/1938

Ticklists: Six classic alpine North Faces.

Photo: Mike Brownlow on the 'Traverse of the Gods', North Face of the Eiger. © Rob Jarvis
View all 37 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

This climb is in 34 logbooks, and on 126 wishlists.

Started on the 20th after bivvying at the bottom. A night squeezed onto a very banked out death bivvy. Topping out in the dark. Great route, totally exhausting, fantastic conditions!
Kayan - AltLd O/S - 21/Apr/15 with Tim Howell

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 15/Apr/15

Hidden - AltLd - 09/Apr/15

Warm and much fresh snow, retreated back to Stollenloch.
Smith42 - AltLd dnf - 09/Apr/14 with Lindsay Yule

Best Tick ever and a lot of fun!
jamesturnbull - AltLd - 31/Mar/14 with John Crook

Hidden - 31/Mar/14

thrillseekerz - 15/Mar/14

Wall to wall sunshine, windless and loads of fun
Dave Almond - AltLd - 09/Mar/14 with Owen Samuel

Hidden - Mar/14

2 days on the face in tough condtions. Route of a lifetime!!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd O/S - 23/Feb/14 with fulton

Well what do I say? Started off first train, broke trail to the rote fluh, bivvied (surprisingly comfortably) at the Death Bivvy, topped out around 5pm, descended to above the seracs and bivvied again then wandered down for 9am the third day. Good conditions, but lots of snow-plodding and snow-clearing on the harder pitches. What an adventure!
Fultonius - AltLd - 23/Feb/14 with Graham Mcgrath

Scared witless but will be back
prcleary - 2nd dnf - Mar/13 with Yuki

unfortunaly bailed off at the difficult crack after a crampon malfunction and poor conditions. what an inspiring mountain though!. will be back!
Ginger McGrath - AltLd dnf - 25/Mar/12 with rob

Like he said, not this time. Hopefully next.
robpartridge - AltLd dnf - 25/Mar/12 with Graham McGrath

Hidden - 2012

26 hours on the face.
Dave Searle - AltLd - 22/Apr/11 with Ally swinton

Pete Graham - AltLd - Apr/11 with Malcolm Scott

Got lucky with weather and conditions. Buzzing!
malx - AltLd O/S - Apr/11

Drove straight from UK none stop and got on the route. Up and back down in 38hr. Not quiet the speed record
thebigeasy - AltLd - Mar/11

Ally Baba - AltLd - 2011 with Dave Searle

Hidden - AltLd dnf - 01/Sep/10

Hidden - AltLd - Oct/08

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Feb/08

Hidden - AltLd - Feb/08

Hidden - Oct/07

Hidden - Oct/07

daveyzxcv - AltLd - 12/Apr/07

Nick Wallis - AltLd O/S - Apr/07 with James Thacker

Ian Parnell - AltLd - Mar/07 with Kenton Cool, Ran Fiennes

mark mcgowan01 - Lead - Jul/92 with Roger Webb, Ian Haliday, Neil Boyd

Gerard DANTEC - AltLd dnf - Sep/87 with Patrick de RAED

mark-abz - AltLd dnf - Aug/87 with Andy W

Is it really nearly 26 years ago?
Bob - AltLd - 28/Aug/85 with D. Lampard

We enjoyed it so much we took our time - seven bivvies up, another on the descent. The greatest climb in the world.
Steve Bell - AltLd - Feb/80 with Roger Mear

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
GrimpeurJim, alexm198, QuentinSu, John Procter, langar27, AlexKervyn, arose, BushwackerBritz, Andrew Holden, Phoebus, Superchop75, James Beaumont, tim newton, edhawk21, Tom Harper, Piers Harley, JamesLloyd, jonskippy, benclimbing, SteveJCox, the ant hill mob, mattc91, sadams601, Alex_RhodesUK, Smith42, ianbowles, JanBella, max_dickens, ianstevens, Bradders, LJC, CM1992, runninginclouds, French Erick, Big Lee, Jimmykeenan01, benrigby, Ross.Cooper, web10steelj, geoff.comley, BarmyAlex118, Adam Booth, JamesRich, Jones_88, highcamp, dan wisey, Alex90, James S, Ben Briggs, edek_w, PeteWilson, eschaton, Sannan75, Howard1, DPaul, har054, RKernan, Quarryboy, mic_b, sylwia, joeydurkin, madguernseyboy, Microwired22, Rick Ashton, technick, bsavage, Andre Clarke, Christian Beck, Matthew Edwards, matty123, diabolous616, Fitzy, Bouskila2001, ladislav, csab1978, Gibson, PanzerHanzler, Snowboy, tim ward-wilson, twright180, Pete Main, Oliver Sherman, centurion05, punj, jazzyjackson, lazyhopkins, HIGHTOWER

Total votes cast 20
hard ED20 of 10
ED25 of 10
easy ED25 of 10
hard ED10 of 10
ED10 of 10
easy ED10 of 10
hard TD+0 of 10
TD+0 of 10
easy TD+0 of 10
3 Stars9 of 10
2 Stars1 of 10
1 Star0 of 10
0 Stars0 of 10
Bag of .....0 of 10
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