Rockfax Description
Satisfying and popular with a fine slab and groove climbing. Protection is spaced and route finding is tricky until all of the overlaps have been passed. The route stays wet early in the season. Solo up to the start (a pair of converging grooves), otherwise pitch 1 is much longer than 60m. Generally regarded as being rather bold and hard for the grade.
1) N5, 60m. There are two narrow grooves at the start. From a block, traverse right then climb the right-hand groove to a small ledge and possible stance. Continue to the top of the same groove and belay on the left on a large grass ledge.
1a) N5, 60m. Combining the left-hand lower groove, and the right-hand upper groove gives a slightly easier variation.
2) N5+, 45m. Trend right up corners and flakes, avoiding any temptation to traverse too far right under the overlaps. Step out left to a thin flake on a smooth face, then continue up right and then back left to a comfortable stance in a right-slanting corner.
3) 20m. Walk right across a wide sloping ledge.
4) N5, 30m. Move up, traverse back left to join Famous Grouse, and follow this up the groove to a ledge and belay on the right.
5) N3, 25m. Climb easily rightwards up cracks in the slab to a stance on top of a big block.
6) N5+, 40m. Climb rightwards to a ledge then move left and climb the tricky crack, then the groove on the left, to another good ledge on the left below the final big groove. The groove left of the crack is an easier variation (N5) if needed.
7) N5+, 35m. Layback/jam the huge corner, a great pitch.
8) N4, 20m. Finish up the grassy corner on the left to the top. © Rockfax
UKC Logbook Description
5+ in local guide, 9 pitches of quality climbing up to HVS/E1. 280m
Ticklists
ROCKFAX Lofoten Rock Top 50 , Lofoten Mid Grade Routes
Feedback
| User | Date | Notes | ||
|---|---|---|---|---|
| hlegge | 22 Jul, 2019 |
Show βeta
βeta: Route was nice, despite probably being a bit sandbagged at 5+. The first two pitches are both at least 1 grade harder than described in the guide. Pitch 6 and 7 were particularly special climbing. The biggest thing that turned this day into a bit of an epic was the descent. The descent line 1 on the guide book picture implies you go down a gully much earlier than you should! This led to being in the middle of a crumbly big face needing to horizontally climb and abseil to get into the grassy gully we should have been in. Go all the way to the big grassy gully by following the ridge, ignore the pictures line! | βeta? | |
|
Show beta
βeta: Route was nice, despite probably being a bit sandbagged at 5+. The first two pitches are both at least 1 grade harder than described in the guide. Pitch 6 and 7 were particularly special climbing. The biggest thing that turned this day into a bit of an epic was the descent. The descent line 1 on the guide book picture implies you go down a gully much earlier than you should! This led to being in the middle of a crumbly big face needing to horizontally climb and abseil to get into the grassy gully we should have been in. Go all the way to the big grassy gully by following the ridge, ignore the pictures line! |
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Logged Ascents
Guidebooks for Øvredalen
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Lys og skygge
Grade: n5+ ***
(Pianokrakken)