Vinatzer*** V+
[3rd Sella Tower silhouette , 1 kb]350m, 11 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A superb climb and one of the most sought after in the area. The Vinatzer offers excellent climbing throughout, with a stiff but well protected crux through the roof immediately after the Spiral Terrace.
Start at an easy leftwards leading ledge, directly under a yellow and black niche.
1) IV, 50m. Traverse the ledge leftwards on easy ground until you reach a rightwards sloping ramp. Climb diagonally right on good grey rock for a few metres, then direct to gain a rightwards trending wide chimney which can be damp after rain. Continue up this on good rock to a stance on shattered rock.
2) IV, 30m. Climb mainly direct, trending ever so slightly left on good rock, following a flared crack, to a good stance on a small, deep ledge underneath the chimney.
3) V, 40m. Climb the chimney, past one strenuous move near the top, to exit onto a small ledge. Continue slightly right on good rock to belay under a chimney.
4) V, 40m. Continue up the next chimney, then trend right into a wide corner with a grey slab on its right-hand wall. Overcome a crack to reach a niche with a thread belay under the overhangs.
5) IV+, 50m. Make an easy but exposed 10m traverse leftwards (a direct variant is possible), then climb up easy grey rock to the Spiral Terrace. Belay on boulders/threads, underneath the finger crack. It is possible to escape off the route down the Spiral Terrace if required.
6) V+, 25m. Climb the enjoyable finger crack on good holds - a little polished within the crack itself, but very well protected. Overcome the steep overhang with powerful moves on big holds (but not much for the feet). Continue on good holds, with steep climbing up the wider continuation crack, to a 3-peg belay.
7) IV+, 25m. Follow the crack above for 30m, bearing slightly left to a 2-peg belay, below a large chimney.
8) IV+, 35m. Continue up the right-trending chimney crack, passing a 2-peg belay. Continue direct then right to a stance to the left of arete (pegs and possible thread).
From here there are two possible finishes. The easiest and most popular leads around the right of the arete to join the final pitches of Via Jahn. Alternatively a harder (but arguably better) finish takes the original line which goes direct.
Original Finish
9) V-, 30m. Keep left and follow a crack on the edge of the arete. Move left and climb up for 10m to reach an overhanging crack.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the initially steep crack which widens to form a chimney. Follow this then climb a grey slab to join the final pitch of the Via Jahn.
11) As for the final pitch of Via Jahn.
FA. Vinatzer, Peristi 1935, FA. Via Jahn. Jahn, Merlet, Dyrenfurth 1918
Via Jahn
9) III+, 45m. Continue up to then cross onto the right side of the arete, climbing the large open corner to another peg belay.
10) IV, 25m. Climb the crack above, with a prominent flake on its left-hand side, into an open corner and chimney. Follow the loose chimney to a rocky pulpit.
11) III, 50m. Head left from the rocky pulpit for a couple of metres, then climb direct over black and grey rock slabs, with many lines possible on reasonably good rock, to belay on the rocks below the summit. © ROCKFAX


Vinatzer, Peristi 1935

Photo: 3rd Sella Tower silhouette © James Rushforth
View all 2 photos or Submit a new photo of this climb.

PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 56 logbooks, and on 5 wishlists.

fuzzysheep01 - AltLd O/S - 05/Aug/15 with Pierce Ferris

rained off it 15 years ago... great route
Paul Crusher R - AltLd - 29/Jul/15

Altitude makes it a long day!
Kevster - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/15 with P Ecton

Mike Hood - AltLd - 28/Sep/14 with jordan, Alex

james1978 - AltLd O/S - Sep/14 with pam

Alex Munnery - AltLd O/S - Sep/14 with Jordan Peaker

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/14

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 17/Aug/13

keithlambley - 08/Sep/12 with Karen W

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 21/Aug/12

roberts1234567890 - AltLd - 08/Aug/12 with Rebecca Murray

Hidden - 02/Aug/12

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Aug/12

excellent, lead the crux pitch, got blasted briefly by hail then had a sunny adventurous descent.
tomhull - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/12 with matt harris

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Jul/12

Only got as far as the spiral terrace after major route-finding difficulties below (found Classic Dolomite Climbs line to be correct, Dolomites East/West very misleading). So late arriving at the terrace that we decided it was best to bail. Will be back!
ripper - AltLd dnf - Jun/12 with Lyness, Pierce, Matt Chap

tcn_2002 - AltLd - 26/Sep/11

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 25/Jul/11

Loose rock on the easier pitches. The finger crack had great gear and solid rock. Wet overhang pitch and final top out pitch (from the right) felt like the cruxes. Ab Ring was covered in snow so we took 3 50m abs down to the ledge. Halfway down the second ab a rock flew down from the top and smacked me in the face as I was looking up.
Peter Holder - AltLd O/S - 31/May/11 with Josh Legg

Ab point at the top of the tower was under alot off snow, so we had a scary descent down the route we had just climbed, but still back for tea!
josh william legg - Lead - May/11 with peter holder

Hidden - Lead O/S - Aug/10

Laurence Everitt - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Harry Thorpe

Huge thunderstorm struck as I was finishing the traverse pitch under the roof before the mid-height ledge, pretty scary!
Harry Thorpe - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/10 with Laurence Everitt

skeight88 - 2nd - Jul/10

fabulous roof pitch
givemetea - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/09 with Robert

Direct Finish. Roslyn led crux pitch 5+ (finger crack and overhang) RD ran pitches 11 and 12 (5) together
rd20 - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/09 with Roslyn

Hidden - 2nd - 26/Aug/09

Steady, mostly well protected and good rock. Cracking crux. UIAA VI- Finished direct (better and harder at 5/5+)
danm - AltLd - 12/Aug/09 with Jim Danson, Tom

Route gets better the higher you go. Direct finish is well worth it at the same sort of grade. The downclimbing is scary but steady away.
jimdanson - AltLd - 12/Aug/09

twoplates - 2nd - 12/Aug/09 with Dan M, Jim Danson

very high! complex descent!
whistler - AltLd O/S - 27/Jul/09 with Anna

Anna_wells - Jul/09 with pete

Great climb, awkward descent. Jerry led the finger crack pitch from the Spiral Ledge - lovely stuff.
Richard Gilbert - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/09 with Jerry Ostrowski

Dave Rumney - AltLd O/S - 08/Sep/08 with James McDowall

paul79 - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

A bit wet low down. Great mountain day.
decs - AltLd O/S - 18/Jun/08 with Sam Hawkins

Kopo - 2008 with Olli

A fantastic route, very scary descent down an ice filled couloir, complete with a TV sized block falling down it. Head torch descent - only had one between us as I had left mine at the bottom of the crag in my daysack. Cold pizza for dinner again!
John HW - AltLd - 10/Jul/07 with Cath

Euan Strachan - AltLd O/S - 10/May/07 with Henward

WB - Lead O/S - 04/Sep/06 with Guy

FrankW - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Joe

The descent from the top of the third tower is over unstable rock. The final gully was ice filled and a lot of rock followed us down scary at times.
John HW - AltLd O/S - 15/Jun/06 with Cath

chris wyatt - AltLd rpt - Aug/04 with Gareth Tucker

Hidden - Lead O/S - 29/Jun/04

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Steptoe

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/00

tjekel - 2000

awhitta1 - AltLd O/S - Oct/99

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 07/Aug/88

Sad that the next day a Brit was killed on this route.
dtalbot - AltLd - Jun/79 with Rory O'Conor

Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/73 with TRE

c2,000 feet top to bottom. 4.5 - 5 hours.
eroica64 - AltLd - Jul/71 with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett

Seymore Butt - 1966

Twice, 1966 and 1967
jcw - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
ned_85, Kate Edhouse, Alex Munnery, Ronan O Keeffe

Voting
Total votes cast 18
hard VI-0 of 1
VI-0 of 1
easy VI-0 of 1
hard V+0 of 1
V+1 of 1
easy V+0 of 1
hard V0 of 1
V0 of 1
easy V0 of 1
3 Stars5 of 6
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