|350m, 11 pitches. A superb climb and one of the most sought after in the area. The Vinatzer offers excellent climbing throughout, with a stiff but well protected crux through the roof immediately after the Spiral Terrace. |
Start at an easy leftwards leading ledge, directly under a yellow and black niche.
1) IV, 50m. Traverse the ledge leftwards on easy ground until you reach a rightwards sloping ramp. Climb diagonally right on good grey rock for a few metres, then direct to gain a rightwards trending wide chimney which can be damp after rain. Continue up this on good rock to a stance on shattered rock.
2) IV, 30m. Climb mainly direct, trending ever so slightly left on good rock, following a flared crack, to a good stance on a small, deep ledge underneath the chimney.
3) V, 40m. Climb the chimney, past one strenuous move near the top, to exit onto a small ledge. Continue slightly right on good rock to belay under a chimney.
4) V, 40m. Continue up the next chimney, then trend right into a wide corner with a grey slab on its right-hand wall. Overcome a crack to reach a niche with a thread belay under the overhangs.
5) IV+, 50m. Make an easy but exposed 10m traverse leftwards (a direct variant is possible), then climb up easy grey rock to the Spiral Terrace. Belay on boulders/threads, underneath the finger crack. It is possible to escape off the route down the Spiral Terrace if required.
6) V+, 25m. Climb the enjoyable finger crack on good holds - a little polished within the crack itself, but very well protected. Overcome the steep overhang with powerful moves on big holds (but not much for the feet). Continue on good holds, with steep climbing up the wider continuation crack, to a 3-peg belay.
7) IV+, 25m. Follow the crack above for 30m, bearing slightly left to a 2-peg belay, below a large chimney.
8) IV+, 35m. Continue up the right-trending chimney crack, passing a 2-peg belay. Continue direct then right to a stance to the left of arete (pegs and possible thread).
From here there are two possible finishes. The easiest and most popular leads around the right of the arete to join the final pitches of Via Jahn. Alternatively a harder (but arguably better) finish takes the original line which goes direct.
9) V-, 30m. Keep left and follow a crack on the edge of the arete. Move left and climb up for 10m to reach an overhanging crack.
10) IV+, 35m. Climb the initially steep crack which widens to form a chimney. Follow this then climb a grey slab to join the final pitch of the Via Jahn.
11) As for the final pitch of Via Jahn.
FA. Vinatzer, Peristi 1935, FA. Via Jahn. Jahn, Merlet, Dyrenfurth 1918
9) III+, 45m. Continue up to then cross onto the right side of the arete, climbing the large open corner to another peg belay.
10) IV, 25m. Climb the crack above, with a prominent flake on its left-hand side, into an open corner and chimney. Follow the loose chimney to a rocky pulpit.
11) III, 50m. Head left from the rocky pulpit for a couple of metres, then climb direct over black and grey rock slabs, with many lines possible on reasonably good rock, to belay on the rocks below the summit. © ROCKFAX
Vinatzer, Peristi 1935