This climb is in 8 logbooks, and on 1 wishlist.
Night time, wet, cold and wrong harness these are things that normally stop me from leading a route but not this time.
With the glow from the torches, wire brushing, drying with towels and not to mention the small vision i had from the head torch i still managed to link the route first time on the lead.
This route without a doubt is difficult and even more difficult due to Craigmore's poor protection, you are left with a couple of choices on this, stop and place a bomber cam on a hold thats small and kinda desperate or fight past and possibly fall on to an even smaller cam that i would say is questionable on a bigger fall.
The route starts fairly easy with big power pulls and then mid way stops being power pulls and turns into a technical section where feet are key to stop you peeling and to round it off finishes with are rather large dyno to a nice juggy top.
Will challenge alot of climbings both lead and top rope but a worth while project.
dmacmorris - Lead rpt - 22/Oct/12 with Kevin Woods
Yus! Hardest climb to date! A little encouragement goes a long way...... was last person to think it would happen today. Awesome weather, bitten to shreads by midges, + friction good (amazingly - for Craigmore in summer). Spent days and days working this climb, hence it's my hardest lead by a mile. Favourite line at Craigmore by a long shot - up the E1 crack, onto E4 crack, cut onto pillar to top) Well pleased to have it done. ((TR dogged 1 rest 27/04/12 (with Steve). First clean TR 06/05/12.))
Kevin Woods - Lead RP - 19/Jun/12 with Joanna, Owain
SonicJ - TR dnf - 17/Oct/09 with timcussins
timcussins - TR dog - 29/Mar/09 with Greg
gregoldridge - TR dog - 29/Mar/09 with Tim Cussins
Cassidy - Solo β - 06/Jun/06
Hidden - TR O/S - 1998
mark mcgowan01 - 1990
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