Via Steger*** IV+
7 pitches.

Rockfax Description
A justifiably popular route that predominantly stays just right of the west ridge proper. It is recommended to start early to avoid the crowds. The climb is suffering from polish in places because of its popularity.
Start beneath a slightly vegetated leftwards trending gully to the right of the main arete.
1) III+, 25m. Climb the leftward trending gully to a large ledge.
2) I, 20m. Walk right along the ledge and belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
3) IV-, 40m. Climb the chimney belaying on the left at the top.
4) I, 15m. Walk right again and belay under a steep crack.
5) IV, 40m. Climb that crack which is easier than it first appears until you find yourself on the arete again.
6) IV+, 20m. Climb 2m on the left side of the arete before crossing back over onto the right and entering a corner. Climb this until you reach easier ground and a belay at the top.
7) Easy ground now leads to the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
Straight forward climbing. 160m. 7 pitches

Steger, Holzner 30 Jun 1928
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This climb is in 92 logbooks, and on 2 wishlists.

james1978 - AltLd O/S - 19/Sep/15

Hidden - Lead O/S - 10/Sep/15

Matt1234 - AltLd O/S - 03/Sep/15

katiet - AltLd - 01/Sep/15 with Steve Shorrock

Steve Shorrock - AltLd - 01/Sep/15 with Katie Towers

The description in the Rockfax guide for the start of the climb is wrong. Instead: 1) 50m Climb & scramble (scree) up the leftward trending gully to a notch in the ridge. 2) III+ 45m From the notch climb up the ridge to a large ledge and then walk right along this to belay underneath the second chimney you encounter.
Steve Lenartowicz - Lead - 01/Sep/15 with Clare

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/15

PPP - AltLd O/S - 28/Aug/15 with Brian

Hidden - AltLd - 27/Aug/15

Sankey - Lead - 11/Aug/15 with Andy E

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Aug/15

Hidden - 2nd - 24/Jul/15

Hidden - Lead - 24/Jul/15

First pitch only due to overcrowding on route..........
Gavdee1 - Lead - 06/Jul/15 with Tony Johnson

cpforbes - AltLd O/S - Jul/15

alooker - Lead - Jun/15

Alex Eperon - AltLd - 08/Sep/14

A shame that the new awesome Rockfax guide is incorrect for the first pitch. You can climb up the gully, but it is no where near 25m long. From a safe point at the bottom of the gully you are looking at about 50-60m of loose choss. A more amenable route is to climb the easy ground to the left of the pinnacle, around the back and drop into the top of the gully. This is very polished also leading me to think I wasn't the first to do this. Nice enough route, top pitch is fun. Very safe.
centurion05 - Lead O/S - 08/Sep/14 with Yvonne

Giles Eperon - Lead - 08/Sep/14 with Charlie Wilson

eve29 - 2nd - 08/Sep/14 with Andy

somebody drilled a spit into the crux, which is now considerably easier despite the polish
Alessandro Tentori - AltLd O/S - 12/Jul/14 with Luca Gasparini

Hidden - AltLd O/S - Jun/14

Hidden - Lead dnf - 25/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 02/Sep/13

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/12

Marq - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12 with James Rowe, James Pearson

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 19/Aug/12

Too polished to be as enjoyable as it should have been. Polish ruined it for me.
jezb1 - AltLd - 23/Jul/12

Polished in places, but a worthwhile outing, good crux pitch.
The Ivanator - AltLd O/S - 23/Jul/12 with Jez

Got to pitch four then abseiled off
Eoinparker - 2nd dnf - 17/Jul/12 with Melanie parkin, Ch

Melanie Parkin - 2nd dnf - 17/Jul/12 with Eoinparker, ChrisRGX

John Nuttall - AltLd - 11/Jul/12 with Andy H

timofy - AltLd O/S - 20/Jun/12

Hidden - AltLd - 07/Jun/12

Suzana - AltLd - 07/Jun/12 with Lucy Greenhill

guy757 - Lead - 16/Sep/11

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 13/Sep/11

stevorobs3 - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/11 with andy howell, David Brock, Giovanni Milandri

Lead 4 pitches. Climbing with packs. UIAA Gr 4 but felt difficult. Well protected.
Hotcake - AltLd - Sep/11 with Snowy

Griff87 - 24/Aug/11

First on it, no queues!
Mike-W-99 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/11 with Fiona

Nice climbing, first on the route due to getting out of bed early! Led odd pitches
Fiona Reid - AltLd - 06/Jul/11 with Mike

HIGHTOWER - AltLd O/S - 26/Apr/11 with Danny Mickers

Hidden - Lead O/S - Sep/10

Great fun on increasingly awkward rock.
Rampikino - Lead - 19/Aug/10 with Cat

zach.stone - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Peter Hill

theotherpetehill - AltLd O/S - 03/Aug/10 with Zach Stone

Point of aid at last pitch crux
JLS - AltLd dog - 13/Jul/10 with Jacqui

EmileCilliers - AltLd O/S - 30/Jun/10

jonnie3430 - AltLd O/S - 28/Jun/10 with Welsh Tom, Sian

SianR - 2nd - 28/Jun/10 with Jonnie & Welsh Tom

simon kimber - Lead O/S - 18/Jun/10 with Hannah Hunt

Hanski - 2nd - 18/Jun/10 with Simon Kimber

Hidden - 2nd - May/10

Hidden - 2010

Euan Strachan - Lead O/S - 2010 with Laura Wright

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 30/Jul/09

Dave Latimer - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/08

1.5 hrs
Ben1983 - AltLd O/S - 31/Jul/08

Elsier - AltLd O/S - Jul/08 with Stuart

paul79 - AltLd O/S - Jul/08

Hidden - AltLd - 2008

jcj - 2008

jcj - 2008

Hidden - Lead O/S - 2008

Hidden - 2nd - 31/Aug/07

Hidden - AltLd - 26/Jun/07

edmund94 - Lead O/S - 10/Jun/07

Turned back due to weather.
edmund94 - Lead dnf - 09/Jun/07

Hidden - AltLd - 2007

FrankW - Lead O/S - 17/Jul/06 with Joe

John HW - AltLd O/S - Jun/06 with Cath

Hidden - 2005

Hidden - Jul/04

akhughes - AltLd O/S - Jun/04 with Steptoe

Led p2 (IV-,IV) and p4 (IV, IV+) to top.
Alaric - AltLd O/S - 24/Aug/03 with Pierre Maxted

Hidden - AltLd - 13/Jul/03

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jun/03

John HW - Lead O/S - May/02 with Stuart Mackenzie, Colin Masson

auld al - AltLd O/S - Sep/01

chris wyatt - AltLd rpt - Aug/01 with chris praxmarer

cem - AltLd O/S - 27/Aug/00 with Miles Butteriss

Hidden - AltLd O/S - May/00

Hidden - AltLd - 02/Sep/99

Hidden - AltLd - 1997

Hidden - AltLd - 31/Aug/92

babymoac - AltLd - 23/Sep/91 with Rich Reeder

tjekel - 1987

Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/73 with TRE

Falko - Lead O/S - 01/Aug/73 with TRE

eroica64 - AltLd - Jul/71 with Stephen Carrot, Ron Hardaker, Roger Everett

Seymore Butt - 1966

Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
Alex Munnery, zach.stone

Total votes cast 29
hard V-0 of 2
V-0 of 2
easy V-0 of 2
hard IV+2 of 2
IV+0 of 2
easy IV+0 of 2
hard IV0 of 2
IV0 of 2
easy IV0 of 2
3 Stars4 of 9
2 Stars4 of 9
1 Star1 of 9
0 Stars0 of 9
Bag of .....0 of 9
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Style of ascent
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Clean O/S
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