5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent route with a very memorable 'step' (jump!?) from the top of the pillar back onto the main wall. For those feeling less adventurous it is possible to abseil/down climb into the notch and re-climb the wall. Popular and consequently somewhat polished.
Start as for Via Fiechtl.
1) III, 30m. As for Via Fiechtl.
2) IV, 30m. Climb a crack (Via Fiechtl continues direct here) until moves right lead to a chimney-crack. Climb this then exit right to a stance on a ledge.
3) IV+, 35m. Follow pegs back left to the chimney-crack (it is also possible to climb the crack above direct, harder at V) climb this then move back right and follow the right-hand crack direct to a stance below a roof.
4) IV, 25m. Traverse right below the roof then climb either of two parallel cracks direct to a saddle.
5) III, 45m. Follow easy ground towards the summit to reach the exit from the final chimney of Via Fiechtl. Either make a very long and bold step across, or down climb/abseil to a chockstone and climb the opposing wall, then continue easily to the summit. © Rockfax

UKC Logbook Description
The initial steep crack can be avoided on the right knocks route down to S. The jump across the gap adds interest.
110m, 5 pitches

Gluck, Rezzera 1935


ClimberDateStyle
Amy121 16/Sep AltLd

Lead 1st, 3rd (1st 2 3rds), 4th pitch. Epic route!! Loved it!

mikestr555 16/Sep AltLd
tobydunford 18/Aug AltLd O/S
with Simon Thursz
Hidden 26/Jul Lead
james.slater 29/Jun AltLd O/S

A very cool route, it doesnt look likely at the grade but the 4th pitch is special!

Hidden 06/Sep/15 Lead O/S
TomGB 06/Aug/15 AltLd O/S

I led the middle pitches. IV+ pitch felt hard and long at 35m, was glad to see the ring as had run out of ammo.

with Vicki Cox, Stewart Moody
Hidden 06/Aug/15 2nd
lcullum7 04/Aug/15 Lead O/S
SarahA 04/Aug/15 2nd O/S
with Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum
Hidden 04/Aug/15 2nd O/S
Hidden 24/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
mes32 24/Jul/15 AltLd O/S

Led pitch 2 plus half of crux by accident, then pitch 4 which was wild! Awesome moves out the roof pulling on jugs with no feet and great exposure. Step across was straightforward. Great route.

with Dave M
Jim Slater 20/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
with Maia
Hidden 20/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
cpforbes ?/Jul/15 AltLd O/S
monkeyboy3000 23/Jul/13 Lead O/S

1st climb int he Dolomites lead all pitches,great fun as was jumping over the gap !

Matt Schwarz 01/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

jump wasn't to bad climbed route quicker than expecting

phillipjohnson ?/Jul/12 AltLd O/S

through steep crack rather than following ridge line on pitch 3

ripper ?/Jun/12 AltLd

lovely varied climbing - especially the belay in the cave, then bridging out, facing outwards, before swinging left into an OH crack. As a 3 with Matt and Chris L.

with Lyness, Matt Chap
PJMuir 15/Sep/11 2nd O/S

Great climb

with Ash Johnson
Hidden 13/Sep/11 Lead O/S
Elsier 25/Jul/10 Lead

Interesting varied climbing, bit of a queue for the step across

with Jo
Doby 25/Jul/10 2nd O/S

Very enjoyable although the jump across near the top petrified me! First climb in the Dolomites

with Elsie
langar27 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
JonHarvey 06/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
Alessandro Tentori ?/Jul/10 AltLd O/S
with Andrea Morandi, Tommaso Regesta
Hidden 11/Sep/08 AltLd O/S
Hidden ?/Sep/08 AltLd
AndrewJenkins ??/2008 -
John HW 12/Jun/06 Lead

Instructing on Garys Exped

with 2 x Students
chris wyatt ??/2005 -
John HW ?/May/02 AltLd O/S

Climbed in near winter conditions plastic boots and all. finished late at night.

with Stuart Mackenzie
Hidden ?/Jun/96 AltLd
Andy Say 23/Jul/89 Lead O/S
IanD353 ?/Jul/89 AltLd O/S
tjekel ??/1987 -
Voting
High V-
Mid V-
Low V-
High IV+
Mid IV+
Low IV+
High IV
Mid IV
Low IV
Votes cast 12
Votes cast 11
Style of ascent
Alt Leads
Lead
Followed
Not Set
Onsighted
Not Set