|Via dei Pilastrini||IV+|
|5 pitches. An excellent route with a very memorable 'step' (jump!?) from the top of the pillar back onto the main wall. For those feeling less adventurous it is possible to abseil/down climb into the notch and re-climb the wall. Popular and consequently somewhat polished.|
Start as for Via Fiechtl.
1) III, 30m. As for Via Fiechtl.
2) IV, 30m. Climb a crack (Via Fiechtl continues direct here) until moves right lead to a chimney-crack. Climb this then exit right to a stance on a ledge.
3) IV+, 35m. Follow pegs back left to the chimney-crack (it is also possible to climb the crack above direct, harder at V) climb this then move back right and follow the right-hand crack direct to a stance below a roof.
4) IV, 25m. Traverse right below the roof then climb either of two parallel cracks direct to a saddle.
5) III, 45m. Follow easy ground towards the summit to reach the exit from the final chimney of Via Fiechtl. Either make a very long and bold step across, or down climb/abseil to a chockstone and climb the opposing wall, then continue easily to the summit. © ROCKFAX
The initial steep crack can be avoided on the right knocks route down to S. The jump across the gap adds interest. 110m, 5 pitches
Gluck, Rezzera 1935
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