Via dei Pilastrini*** IV+
5 pitches.

Rockfax Description
An excellent route with a very memorable 'step' (jump!?) from the top of the pillar back onto the main wall. For those feeling less adventurous it is possible to abseil/down climb into the notch and re-climb the wall. Popular and consequently somewhat polished.
Start as for Via Fiechtl.
1) III, 30m. As for Via Fiechtl.
2) IV, 30m. Climb a crack (Via Fiechtl continues direct here) until moves right lead to a chimney-crack. Climb this then exit right to a stance on a ledge.
3) IV+, 35m. Follow pegs back left to the chimney-crack (it is also possible to climb the crack above direct, harder at V) climb this then move back right and follow the right-hand crack direct to a stance below a roof.
4) IV, 25m. Traverse right below the roof then climb either of two parallel cracks direct to a saddle.
5) III, 45m. Follow easy ground towards the summit to reach the exit from the final chimney of Via Fiechtl. Either make a very long and bold step across, or down climb/abseil to a chockstone and climb the opposing wall, then continue easily to the summit. © ROCKFAX

UKC Logbook Description
The initial steep crack can be avoided on the right knocks route down to S. The jump across the gap adds interest.
110m, 5 pitches


Gluck, Rezzera 1935
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PUBLIC LOGBOOKS
This climb is in 27 logbooks, and on no wishlists.

I led the middle pitches. IV+ pitch felt hard and long at 35m, was glad to see the ring as had run out of ammo.
TomGB - AltLd O/S - 06/Aug/15 with Vicki Cox, Stewart Moody

lcullum7 - Lead O/S - 04/Aug/15 with Duncan Livesey, Sarah Acheson

SarahA - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/15 with Duncan Livesey, Luke Cullum

Hidden - 2nd O/S - 04/Aug/15

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 24/Jul/15

Jim Slater - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/15 with Maia Hunnex

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 20/Jul/15

cpforbes - AltLd O/S - Jul/15

1st climb int he Dolomites lead all pitches,great fun as was jumping over the gap !
monkeyboy3000 - Lead O/S - 23/Jul/13

jump wasn't to bad climbed route quicker than expecting
Matt Schwarz - AltLd O/S - 01/Jul/12 with Phillip Johnson

through steep crack rather than following ridge line on pitch 3
phillipjohnson - AltLd O/S - Jul/12 with Matt schwarz

lovely varied climbing - especially the belay in the cave, then bridging out, facing outwards, before swinging left into an OH crack. As a 3 with Matt and Chris L.
ripper - AltLd - Jun/12 with Lyness, Matt Chap

Great climb
PJMuir - 2nd O/S - 15/Sep/11 with Ash Johnson

Hidden - Lead O/S - 13/Sep/11

Interesting varied climbing, bit of a queue for the step across
Elsier - Lead - 25/Jul/10 with Jo

Very enjoyable although the jump across near the top petrified me! First climb in the Dolomites
Doby - 2nd O/S - 25/Jul/10 with Elsie

langar27 - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with jon harvey

JonHarvey - AltLd O/S - 06/Jul/10 with James Langridge

Alessandro Tentori - AltLd O/S - Jul/10 with Andrea Morandi, Tommaso Regesta

Hidden - AltLd O/S - 11/Sep/08

Hidden - AltLd - Sep/08

AndrewJenkins - 2008

Instructing on Garys Exped
John HW - Lead - 12/Jun/06 with 2 x Students

chris wyatt - 2005

Climbed in near winter conditions plastic boots and all. finished late at night.
John HW - AltLd O/S - May/02 with Stuart Mackenzie

Hidden - AltLd - Jun/96

tjekel - 1987

Voting
Total votes cast 22
hard V-0 of 4
V-0 of 4
easy V-0 of 4
hard IV+0 of 4
IV+3 of 4
easy IV+1 of 4
hard IV0 of 4
IV0 of 4
easy IV0 of 4
3 Stars7 of 8
2 Stars1 of 8
1 Star0 of 8
0 Stars0 of 8
Bag of .....0 of 8
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