The obvious groove at the extreme right of east bay, it give cruxy interesting climbing with some weird moves. Recently cleaned and is harder than it was originally, due to the loss of a large foot ledge from the crux.

Hugh Simons 21/Jul Lead O/S

Warm up for trying Wally 1 again. Pretty straightforward with good gear and nice moves - although that block at the top is seriously worrying. A bit cob-webby.

Mike-W-99 30/Jun Lead dnf

Note to self - follow the route not some vague memory of where you think it goes.

with Fiona
Mark Bull 09/Jun Lead rpt
with Mike
CaelanB 24/May 2nd O/S

Provides some interesting problems, good fun. If a little short lived

Dr Toph 08/Apr Lead rpt

Some very dubious blocks in the upper half of this route, so approach with caution until someone has time with a crowbar...

with Will
salix 08/Apr 2nd

Nice moves, but some scary blocks at the top.

with Topher
Fiona Reid 10/Sep/14 2nd RP

Mike's first E1 lead. He totally cruised it. I fell off crux first go. Lowered down and got it second go. Felt absolutely desperate and very precarious, not sure I'd ever try to lead this one. I think this route might suit the tall better.

with Mike
Mike-W-99 10/Sep/14 Lead O/S

Height an advantage

with Fiona
abbeywall 03/Sep/14 Lead O/S
Hidden 03/Sep/14 2nd O/S
DougMac 03/Sep/14 2nd β
JamieSparkes 05/Jul/14 2nd rpt
Liam Ingram 05/Jul/14 Lead O/S

Good moves between rests. Would make a very good first E1.

Hidden ??/2014 -
Mark Bull 18/Sep/13 Lead O/S

Better and cleaner than it looks. Technical moves with good gear and good rests.

with Mike
sikcby 13/Aug/13 Lead O/S
Hidden 11/Aug/13 Lead O/S
cat22 11/Jul/13 2nd
with Mike
cat22 04/Jun/13 2nd O/S
with Mike
Denpov 05/Jun/12 TR rpt

Toprope with Jason for fun. Never a 5C, more like a 5a.

sergio46 24/May/12 2nd O/S
with John McDonald
glenngordon 23/May/12 Lead O/S
with bomber harris
mhowie 29/Mar/12 2nd O/S
with Niall
D e b o h r a h 21/Aug/11 TR dnf
with Keith
Euan Strachan 07/Aug/11 Lead O/S

Ace, well protected, although there are some suspect bits of rock which can be avoided

with Matt Dooner
Denpov 20/Jun/11 TR O/S

Self-belay. NOT 5c, it is 5b. :o)

Hidden 27/Apr/11 Lead RP
Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd O/S
sneaks 25/Apr/11 Lead O/S
with janey, Chris
Hidden 25/Apr/11 2nd rpt
andymoin 16/Apr/11 2nd rpt
Hidden 16/Apr/11 TR
Neil Mackenzie 16/Apr/11 Lead O/S

dont think it could be 5c, was ma first e1 lead in a while and found it ok and i aint led 5c clean yet so unless someone been putting something in ma porridge this is 5b!

with Andy
Scottish78 ??/2011 -
sebrider 12/Jul/10 Lead O/S
with Sophie
sophiecb 12/Jul/10 2nd
with Seb
PaulMcL 12/Jun/10 2nd β

Short and tough as first outdoor climb. Followed lead with much swearing. I found a couple of semi-dyno reaches were required so if you're not tall you need faith the holds will be good when you hit them. (Which they are)

Hidden 24/Apr/10 Lead O/S
jamiefoxen 23/Apr/10 2nd
with Scott Garcea
krasavenko 23/Mar/10 2nd O/S
JamieSparkes 23/Mar/10 Lead O/S

nice route, bolt belays appreciated, brambles at the top not so much.

Dr Toph ?/Jul/09 2nd O/S

Dirty at the bottom, but the upper crack is fun.

with Ally Hill
jazzyjackson 07/Jun/09 Lead O/S

excellent route. Safe with some great moves.

with Ally
Hidden ??/2009 Lead
andymoin 15/Sep/08 2nd rpt
with Warren
adw07 15/Sep/08 Lead O/S
Ian Jones 02/Sep/08 Lead O/S

A very nice route with perfect protection.

with Colm Fitzgerald
R0bbie 19/Jun/08 Lead dog

i found it a bit loose in places. great climb though.

andymoin 06/Jun/08 2nd rpt

Fell off on my first attempt to second taking a pretty big block with me, must have loosened up during the heavy rain. Gave it another going over and pulled some more off, watch out till its had a bit more traffic. Still a great e1 tho!

with Sean
Sean Bell 06/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Good route with some interesting moves.The route was well cleaned up by Andy a few weeks ago, a worthy Dolerite E1 and another now climbable line for the quarry which is slowly being cleaned by a few heroic uphill gardeners.hats off boyz.

with Andy
beegsyboy 04/Jun/08 Lead O/S

Great route, solid E1. Well cleaned by Andy.

with Al
andymoin 22/May/08 Lead β

Spent an hour or two cleaning it removing several tones of mud and some very lose blocks (One being very crucial for the original route grade of e1, 5b , would now say its hard E1, 5c **). Really nice line with some weird moves.

with American Scot, Mark Jarvie
Hidden ??/2008 2nd
Beardyman ??/2000 Lead O/S
babymoac 30/May/99 2nd
with Chris F
Hidden ??/1997 Lead O/S
greenroom ??/1997 -
Bruce Kerr 16/May/96 Lead
with Alan Taylor
TobyA 17/May/95 Lead O/S

I'm pretty certain this was my first E1. How come it is now 5c? I remember it feeling straight forward when I did it - has something fallen off?

with Ed
Alastair R ??/1989 2nd
Users with this climb on their wishlist are:
HaddRoots, oliverk, gurumed, JonmapDL
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